Two or Three Section Chaton Settings - AKA Figure 8 Puddling

Figure 8 puddling is really – 2 or 3 section 20ss chatons

Mr D wrote in his book on page 31. In 1955, my father had J.I. Manufacturing make us a two-section 20ss setting and a 3 section 20ss setting, straight and curved. This had two advantages, first, you did not have to solder those settings together, and second, the girls could set the stones faster in the multiple settings than in the singles settings.

So now that we know what figure puddling really is lets look at the photos. As you can see figure 8 puddling has the prongs set on the sides of the stones sort of like fangs and not set evenly around the stone. Note some even have 3 prongs not 4. This setting of the prongs is “key” along with the size of the rhinestones to figure 8 puddling. Without both of them then you do not have figure 8 puddling.

D&E almost always used a built in pin back for standard brooches and pin/pendants.

 They would use a one piece pin back if it was a small figural brooch, small bar brooch, or a small medal type brooch. Very very rarely if the construction of the brooch just did not allow for a place to solder on the built in pin back they would also use a one piece pin back.  

I have shown examples of the types of brooches that they would use one piece pin backs on.

So a fairly good rule is a regular brooch, without a built in pin back is NOT D&E.

Square wire is how D&E attached articulated items to their jewelry. As in beads, drops, and other things that should move.

There are a handful of D&E items that did not use square wire for attaching things that move and that is because it would have been impossible to use a rivet and square wire in that design.  So they used a setting that had a loop built in.

So the rule is if it is square wire, it is D&E.  If it is not square wire and has a rivet it is not D&E.  If it has a built in setting with a loop attached and there would have been no way to use a rivet, it MIGHT be D&E.

D&E used rivets for the following reasons:

 1. to connect two layers of the design together, important note that I said layers, not two sections

2. to attach bead hangers

3. to attach dangles

4. to attach florettes, some big and some small

Casting is defined as: the process of pouring liquid metal into a mold, which contains a cavity of the desired shape, and then allowed to solidify. The solidified part is also known as a casting. Casting is most often used for making complex shapes that would be otherwise difficult or uneconomical to make by other methods. Castings are solid and provide strength and form for jewelry.

 In this album we will talk about one certain casting D&E used very often that will help you identify an item as D&E.  This style of casting called cast channels have an open line on the front to provide a space for applying glued (pave') set rhinestones.  The rhinestones in these cast channels are always 18pp.

In his book Mr D says: Father had our mold-maker make strips of 18pp castings.  This was in 1955, so these castings will not be found in D&E jewelry older than 1955.

This is a training about the beaded designs D&E did in the later years.  This is not about the dangling bead sets you see all the time in the earlier D&E.

These are just a few of them.  I feel we have probably just scratched the surface with this design style.   There are many more, some are in Mr D's book but not yet found and I am sure there are many others that have just not be identifed as D&E yet.

These are the necklace clasps so far determined to have been used by D&E.

Remember

• A new style could be found at any time.
• Most of these clasp styles are not exclusive to D&E, so you can not id via clasp

If you can not see the clasp well in the smaller photo click on the photo for an enlargement.  If that is still not large enough at the bottom of the larger photo you will see the word "original".  Click on that for a HUGE version of the photo.

1970’s 

pages 94

Mr. D talks about “The look in fashion was getting more hippie and younger, and not as dressy and formal”. Blue jeans were the thing for all occasions. He stated that there was a need for Dog collars and they wanted in on it. D & E made at least twelve different types and different colors.

From Chapter 2 (1947-1949) Page 17 of Mr D's book:

We did a lot of business with Ben Hur Company.  They bought our crystals barrettes at $8.50 per dozen, on cards.  We made cards to put six barrettes for a counter display.  We then made tortoise combs on cards for Ben Hur for the same price.  We soldered a tube setting, usually a 30 stone size from Evans Findings and then drill two holes in a plastic tortoise comb and eyelet the rhinestone pieces onto the comb.

From Chapter 3 (1950-1952) page 24 of Mr D's book:

We were still very busy with Ben Hur making barettes and combs.  We also added some large hair pins to the line. ------ The barettes were always in crystal.  Colors for the hair did not work well.

From Chapter 5 (1957-1963) page 51 of Mr D's book:

We started a new item with Ben Hur and others who used hair goods.  This was a "goodys" hair clip. These were fairly successful but they did have a flew and there were quite a few repairs.  The springs broke quite often.  We could fix them but it was time consuming.

Page 58 shows a photos of a turtoise shell comb from 1961.

Page 74 Show an all rhinestone Chapel Cap worn by a bride from 1965.

As you look at all the slave bracelets, note the following things:

1. Types of chain

2. Types of metal work

3. Types of rhinestones

4. types of ring backs

5. types of clasps

All of these things will help you to determine if a slave bracelet you have is D&E or not.

From Mr. D's book on page 154.  This is from the 1988 line. He stated that they were in big that year. No one else had the item. They bought the over-sized pins from Germany. That the trend was back to big stone jewelry.

Juliana (D&E) hand painted cabochons, sometimes called Easter Eggs since they look like painted easter eggs.

D&E was not the only company to use these stones, so stone use does not tell you that they are D&E.

D&E is not the only company to use geode stones. So seeing a geode does not make the design D&E.

D&E used round and oval support rings.  The oval ones are of a textured wire and the round ones are of a smooth wire.  All are round, not flat.

D&E also used support wires mostly for flowers and then small support wires with loops on the end for butterflies.

The use of support rings and bars is exactly the same in the older items and in last gen items.

Here are the references that Yvonne found about Carol Dauplaise in Mr. D’s Book ~

Chapter 8 (year 1970)

Mr. D states that the company sold to almost all designer names including Carole Dauplaise. That was all the year that they introduced their marine life, which included the use of snails, sea horses and fish. 

Chapter 11 (years 1978-1979)

Mr. D. also references that Carole Dauplaise would send a crew of designers down to work the line at the factory. That they use to get some good business from Carole. When they decided to close the factory, she came into his room at the Providence show and hugged him…telling him she would really miss their factory.  

Signs to look for in Restones/Rebeads

Look for colors that are not something you have seen D&E use in the past.  The database is a good place to look for color combinations. Many of the restones are done in color combinations that would be popular today and not what would have been popular in the 1960's.

 Look to see if any of the prongs are not totally flat against the stones.  However do not say something is a restone just because some prongs are slightly popped as that does happen, but if most of the piece is that way that is a red flag.

 For rebeading, look at the shape of the loops on the head pins.  On D&E they are totally round and the wire is pretty heavy gauge.  On most of the rebeads the loops are more oval and the wire is a smaller gauge. 

You can also see more restones that I are not my photos so I saved them to a pinterest album.  

https://www.pinterest.com/julianajewelry/juliana-de-jewelry-with-incorrectly-colored-stones/

NOT COMPLETE

click for more albums

Here are some links with more information about stones.

http://www.swaro-elements.com/index.htm

http://imageevent.com/thejewelryring/jrworkshoprhinstones