Even though more than 40 years had passed since the Vietnam War had ended, Vietnam remained stubbornly rooted in our 1960s/1970s memories as a war-ravaged nation. Realistically, we knew it had changed. But we were unprepared for the Vietnam of 2014.
We began in Hanoi. The former capital of North Vietnam still has one foot anchored in the past but the other - propelled by its younger generation - is hurtling into the future. We spent a day touring the highlights (with a free student guide), caught a water puppet show and hung out at rooftop café. But the best way to get to know this city is to walk it. And we did. The city has a buzz - and it's not just from the coffee. It is abuzz with change. New shops and restaurants are opening daily. Young people, anxious to practice their English, guilelessly approach willing tourists. A big city with a small city feel.
After an overnight cruise on nearby Halong Bay, we moved on (by overnight train) to Sapa, in the northwest highlands. For three days we never saw the sun. Low clouds, fathomless fog and persistent drizzle were our constant companions. Nevertheless, we fell in love with this town and its indigenous people.
Rocking back to Hanoi on another overnight train, we flew down to Da Nang - only to use it as a stepping stone to reach Hoi An and Hue. Rain and clouds continued to hound us. Nevertheless, we were seduced by Hoi An. Yes, it is a touristy town (by Vietnamese standards) but with good reason. Classic architecture, terrific food and plus we were able to snag a couple of nights at the small, atmospheric Vinh Hung Heritage Hotel. From Hoi An we traveled by bus for a two-night stay in Hue. Great sights surround this dodgy town. And the rains were the steadiest here.
From Da Nang we flew to Can Tho in the Mekong River delta. A day-long delta tour and couple of nights in this town were all we could afford before heading (by bus) to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon).
Saigon of 2014 definitely did not match our mental images of Saigon in the 1960s. Not at all. Saigon is on its way to be the next Hong Kong or Singapore - well on its way. Colonial-style buildings are rapidly being displaced by high-rises. Gucci and Louis Vuitton have already settled in. A proposed subway system is gnawing apart the streets. Change is everywhere.
This trip began in the more provincial north and ended with a wallop in the 21st century south. Our journey was a wonderful introduction to the varieties of peoples and places that this ribbon of a country contains. Too much to cover in one trip. More time, more time, more time - this is the traveler's lament. |
December 2014Showing 1-40 of 1116704 visitsAlbum by David KohlPhotos by David Kohl & Ross Rosenberg |
