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Sumatra, Indonesia
As a side trip from our trip to Malaysia, we flew to the Indonesian island of Sumatra.  Our goal was to reach the mountain town (3,000 feet above sea level) of Bukittinggi - home of the staunchly matrilineal Minangkabau people.

Although we only traveled a few hundred miles by air, Sumatra felt worlds away from the Malay mainland.  Gone was the well-ordered transportation network typical of a former British colony (Malaysia).  Instead, we were flung into the chaos of Indonesian roadways where every mode of tranport - cars, trucks, buses, bicycles, motorcyles - jockeys for space along with chickens, dogs, horses, pedestrians and the occasional oxen.

The town of Bukittinggi will win no beauty prizes.  But the warmth of the people made us believe that it was one of the most attractive places we had ever visited.
July 199922 Images3405 visitsAlbum by David KohlPhotos by David Kohl & Ross Rosenberg
Enlarge photo 1 Sumatra/Malaya Map
Antique Dutch map of the area.  It was on exhibit at the Centre for Documentation on Minangakabau Culture in Padangpanjang.  Note the unusual orientation of the map - north is to the left; south to the right.
Enlarge photo 2 Mt. Merapi view from our hotel room
Gunung Merapi (Fire Mountain) could be seen from our room at the Novotel in Bukittinggi.
Enlarge photo 3 Buffalo
Enlarge photo 4 Cattle Market Near Bukittinggi
The two men in the foreground of this photograph are negotiating the price of a cow using their fingers.  Their hands are covered with a towel to conceal the price from others.
Enlarge photo 5 Palace mosque
The curved roof - representing the horns of the buffalo - is typical of the wood and thatch Minangkabau architecture.
Enlarge photo 6 Replica of  Minangkabau Meeting House
Enlarge photo 7 Detail of a buffalo head on the house
The name "Minangkabau" means "the buffalo wins".  The name came about after the native people won a buffalo fighting contest with the invading Javanese.
Enlarge photo 8 Harau Valley
The Harau Valley - a day trip from Bukittinggi - is a rain forest canyon with a carpet of rice patties and walls cascading with spectacular waterfalls.
Enlarge photo 9 Waterfall in the Harau Valley
Enlarge photo 10 Harau Valley waterfall
Enlarge photo 11 Girls on a raft
Beside a Harau Valley waterfall.
Enlarge photo 12 Girls shampooing
Enlarge photo 13 Dance performance
The Saayun Salangkah dance show of traditional Minangkabau dances held every Wednesday and Saturday in Bukittinggi.  The "plate dance" - where dancers lept barefoot onto broken dishes - was a highlight.  We loved the whole show so much that we saw it twice.
Enlarge photo 14 Woman with bean skirt
At the Bukittinggi market.
Enlarge photo 15 Sambal for sale
Peppers for sale.
Enlarge photo 16 Fun with flour
Flour seller and family.
Enlarge photo 17 Amid flour moutains
And loving it.
Enlarge photo 18 Ducks for sale
Pets or meat?
Enlarge photo 19 Coconut shredder
Enlarge photo 20 More shredding
Enlarge photo 21 With our wonderful guide Eddie
Enlarge photo 22 Outside the Conversatory of Minangkabau Culture