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Nicaragua
The Spanish may have conquered it, the Somozas may have ruled it but its forty volcanoes continue to dominate it.  Nicaragua is a marvelous Central American amalgam of natural wonders, colonial splendors and political survival.

Skipping Managua entirely, we made a beeline for the colonial city of Leon. Catching the last few days of its Semana Santa (Holy Week) festivities, we often found ourselves ambushed by one of Leon's many neighborhood religious processions.  But the highlight was watching the day-long creation of the Good Friday sawdust "carpets" (alfombras).  Thoroughly capitvating.  Heady political murals and dozens of colonial churches added to the conversation in this intellectually-charged, university town.

Granada, our next stop, is Nicaragua’s other, more restored colonial city.  Yes, it is more "gringoized" than Leon but it is a beautiful, comfortable and convenient base for exploring nearby attractions. For example, from Granada, with Lake Nicaragua lapping at its shores, Isla Ometepe, the lake’s mythic twin volcano island, is an easy and essential excursion.

But the no trip would be complete without checking out conditions at Volcan Masaya.  A night time tour is the most dramatic.  Just remain calm and “duck and cover” under a nearby car if the volcano decides to spew a few rocks in your direction.  Remember, you were warned.
April 200980 Images4199 visitsAlbum by David KohlPhotos by David Kohl & Ross Rosenberg
Enlarge photo 1 Nicaragua Map
Enlarge photo 2 Granada
Granada – ostensibly Nicaragua’s most picturesque city – sits of the shores of Lake Nicaragua
(also known as Lago Colcibolca
– “Sweet Lake”).

Enlarge photo 3 La Merced facade
The Iglesia La Merced was built in 1781 but only the facade is original.  Like most of the other buildings in Granda, it was destroyed in 1863 and then later rebuilt.
Enlarge photo 4 La Merced bell tower
The church’s bell tower (accessed by a narrow spiral staircase) affords stunning panoramic views of the city.
Enlarge photo 5 Cathedral (viewed from La Merced)
Granada, founded in 1524 – but then destroyed (courtesy of American renegade William Walker) and rebuilt – the city serves as the tourist hub for the surrounding region.
Enlarge photo 6 Mombacho View
Looming just south of Granada is Volcan Mombacho.  Mombacho contains a cloud forest reserve with two world-class “zip lines” that whir tourists through its jungle-carpeted hillside.
Enlarge photo 7 Granada waterfront
A view of the malecon –
waterfront – of Granada
along Lake Nicaragua.  A
popular spot of Sunday
outings and boat trips
along the lake.

Enlarge photo 8 Monkey on Las Isletas
Las Isletas are a collection of 300 tiny islands conveniently grouped close to the Granada shoreline.
Enlarge photo 9 Heron on Las Isletas
Some of the islands are privately owned – adorned with elaborate mansions.  Others, are public.
Enlarge photo 10 Las Isletas weaver bird nests
The islands were created when a massive explosion of Volcan Mombacho spewed these balsalt isletas into the lake.
Enlarge photo 11 Granada Cathedral
The Parque Colon is the
heart of Granada.  The plaza
is flanked on one side by the
brilliantly painted Cathedral.
The Cathedral was burnt
down in 1857 but then
rebuilt in 1915.

Enlarge photo 12 Carriages
Horse-drawn carriages linger
around the Parque Colon. Tourists hire them for a leisurely ride around the city. Front view of the Hotel Plaza Colon - the most desirable place to stay in the city.

Enlarge photo 13 Carriage Close-Up
Horses with silly ribbons.
Enlarge photo 14 San Francisco Museum
The museum of the Iglesia de San Francisco contains several pre-Columbian sculptures dating from AD 800-1200. They were taken from the Zapatera Island in Lake Nicaragua.
Enlarge photo 15 Laguna de Apoyo
Laguna de Apoyo is a 918-foot deep crater lake – the deepest geological point in Central America.  This ancient volcano last erupted 20,000 years ago.  The water’s sulphur content makes it a soothing skin tonic as well as an effective mosquito repellent.
Enlarge photo 16 Laguna de Apoyo
View of Laguna de Apoyo from the Catarina mirador.
Enlarge photo 17 San Simian at Laguna de Apoyo
San Simian is a small
bungalow-style hotel on
the shores of the Laguna
de Apoyo.

Enlarge photo 18 San Simian
All the rooms have
mosquito netting – no ac.
One bungalow has an
outdoor bathtub.

Enlarge photo 19 Good Friday Procession
During Semana Santa (Holy Week), there are numerous processions throughout the city of Leon.  Stations of the Cross processions take place every Friday during Semana Santa.  The parishioners march through the streets stopping fourteen times - for the fourteen Stations of the Cross (the fourteen stops made by Jesus on his way to Calvary).
Enlarge photo 20 Semana Santa Procession
On Easter Sunday, local churches sponsor a “reunion” procession.  From one church, a procession starts carrying a statue of Jesus; from another church a group heads out with a status of Mary.  Both processions meet – thus symbolizing the reuniting of Mary and Jesus after his resurrection – and then return to their respective churches.
Enlarge photo 21 The Judea
The Judea – a theatrical show portraying the life of Jesus – is another Semana Santa tradition.
Enlarge photo 22 The Judea
Here, on Good Friday morning on a street corner in the Subtiava neighborhood, actors dramatize a scene from the trial of Christ.
Enlarge photo 23 The Judea
The actors are church members
who often play the same role year after year.

Enlarge photo 24 The Judea
Actors dress in period costumes and try to accurately recreate the last days of Christ’s life.
Enlarge photo 25 The Street of Carpets
More than a century ago, in the indigenous Subtiava suburb of Leon, a family created a colorful religious image of sawdust and other materials on the street in front of their home.  That street was traditionally crossed by the Service of Darkness Procession every Good Friday.
Enlarge photo 26 Street of Carpets
Other neighbors began to imitate this family’s creation: more and more carpets (alfombras) began to fill the street.  This tradition became so well know that the Subtiava street is now known as “Carpet Street”  (La Calle de las Alfombras).
Enlarge photo 27 Street of Carpets
The process begins early Good Friday morning.  Carpet streets are closed to all vehicular traffic for the day.  The “carpets” begin with a handmade, temporary wooden frame (varying in size) filled with plain sawdust and then moistened. The sawdust is then smoothed down – as above – with a large, flat piece of wood.
Enlarge photo 28 Street of Carpets
Unlike the more famous “carpets” of Antigua, Guatemala, these carpets use no molds.  They are created freehand. Watch a creation in progress.
Enlarge photo 29 Street of Carpets
Bags of pre-colored sawdust are used to make the carpets.  The sawdust is sculpted by hand.
Enlarge photo 30 Street of Carpets
Most of the carpets depict religious figures or scenes.
Enlarge photo 31 Street of Carpets
Wood planks are often used (as seen above) to reach areas in the center of the carpets.
Enlarge photo 32 Street of Carpets
The process continues throughout the day on Good Friday. We visited the street three times that day – morning, afternoon and evening.
Enlarge photo 33 More material
Enlarge photo 34 Street of Carpets
Carpet creators often try to reproduce drawings or illustrations.  This photo shows a woman referring to a book illustration for guidance.
Enlarge photo 35 Street of Carpets
Carpet "in process" in the afternoon.
Enlarge photo 36 Street of Carpets
Finished carpet viewed in the early evening.
Enlarge photo 37 Street of Carpets
Evening photo shows the completed "carpet".  The wooden frame has been removed.
Enlarge photo 38 Carpet detail
Later on Good Friday evening, the procession marches down the "Street of Carpets" - trampling and destroying all the carpets created during the day.
Enlarge photo 39 Carpet detail
Sometimes materials other than sawdust are incorporated into the carpet.  Notice the wood shavings used as the curls in Christ's hair.
Enlarge photo 40 Home Altar
Many people set up altars in front of their homes to be a stop for the procession.  The priest selects the houses that will function as one of the “stations”.