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Southern and Central Mexico
In an amazingly circuitous route, we covered a lot of ground in just three weeks in southern and central Mexico.

Landing in Villahermosa - a steamy Gulf town - we grabbed a bus to Palenque (a fabled Mayan ruin set against a lush jungle backdrop) and continued via endless switchbacks to San Cristobal de las Casas.

San Cristobal (the most Guatemalan of Mexican cities) was a terrific pit stop - pleasingly sited at about 7,000 feet above sea level.  The highlight: an illuminating day-long tour with Mercedes Hernandez Gomez of the surrounding traditional villages.  Not to be missed.

We then hopped on a plane and flew into Oaxaca.  Great food, sensational crafts and several must-see archeological sites make this town a destination for any traveller seeking the "real" Mexico.

Another plane and bus ride brought us to the silver capital of Mexico - Taxco. A wonderful colonial gem that is too often merely thought of as a day-tripper's shopping paradise.  Several nights stay proved otherwise.

Finally, we rode into Mexico City and took in the sights and pleasures of the most cosmopolitan of Mexican cities.
August 199528 Images4352 visitsAlbum by David KohlPhotos by David Kohl & Ross Rosenberg
Enlarge photo 1 Olmec Head
Villahermosa is home to one of Mexico's most famous archeological parks - Parque Museo La Venta.  La Venta was one of three major Olmec cities during the pre-classic period (2000 B.C. to 300 A.D.).
Enlarge photo 2 La Venta
The ruins of La Venta were discovered in 1938 - 84 miles west of Villahermosa.
Enlarge photo 3 La Venta
All the gigantic heads were moved from  that site to this park.
Enlarge photo 4 La Venta
One of the three largest heads in the park is 6 1/2 feet tall and weighs around 40 tons.  It is estimated to have been carved around 1000 B.C.
Enlarge photo 5 Sweaty in La Venta
The basalt rock for these heads was transported 70 miles - probably by raft - to La Venta. (Warning: Mosquitos thrive on tourists in this park. Don't worry - conveniently placed mosquito repellent salespersons appear throughout the park when needed.)
Enlarge photo 6 Palenque
The ancient Maya city of Palenque was a ceremonial center for high priests during the Classic Period (300 - 900 A.D.).
Enlarge photo 7 Palenque
Enlarge photo 8 Palenque
Temple of the Inscriptions - named for the great stone hieroglyphic panels found inside.
Enlarge photo 9 Palenque
Enlarge photo 10 Tour outside San Cristobal de las Casas
Mercedes Hernandez Gomez (at the center of the photograph holding an umbrella) leads tours of the  villages outlying San Cristobal de las Casas.
Enlarge photo 11 Chamula
One of the villages outside San Cristobal.
Enlarge photo 12 Chamula
Enlarge photo 13 Chamula
Enlarge photo 14 El Sumidero
The canyon of El Sumidero lies 10 miles northeast of Tuxtla Gutierrez.
Enlarge photo 15 Christmas Tree Waterfall
A boat ride down the canyon gives visitors spectacular views of the gorge's scenery. .
Enlarge photo 16 Oaxaca
Santo Domingo Church in the heart of colonial Oaxaca. It was started by Dominican friars in the 1550's and completed a century later.
Enlarge photo 17 Great Plaza of Monte Alban
First inhabited by the Olmecs, the ancient city of Monte Alban looms over the city of Oaxaca.  But the Zapotecs began building the city in 500 B.C.
Enlarge photo 18 Monte Alban
The city was occupied for nearly 3,000 years - roughly from 1500 B.C. to 1400 A.D.
Enlarge photo 19 Wood sculptures
The small wood sculptures from villages surrounding Oaxaca are among the many crafts that are produced in the area.
Enlarge photo 20 Wood sculptures
Enlarge photo 21 Mitla
Mitla was settled by the Zapotecs around 800 B.C. and later inhabited by the Mixtecs in the late 10th century.  The city was still flourishing at the time of the Spanish conquest.
Enlarge photo 22 Mitla wall detail
The most common motif - the zigzag pattern - can also be found in the blankets/rugs that are handwoven in the Oaxaca area.  Human or animal images are rare in Mixtec art.
Enlarge photo 23 Mitla wall detail
Enlarge photo 24 Taxco
Taxco (pronouced Tahs-ko) - a city of about 87,000 and noted for its silver production - is situated at a refreshingly pleasant altitude of 5,850 feet.
Enlarge photo 25 Taxco city view
Over 180 silver shops line Taxco's streets.
Enlarge photo 26 Hotel courtyard in Taxco
Hotel Santa Prisca
Enlarge photo 27 Santa Prisca Church
Completed in 1758 after eight years of labor, Santa Prisca Church is one of Mexico's most impressive baroque churches.
Enlarge photo 28 Sculpture in Santa Prisca