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Mainland Malaysia, Borneo & Singapore
We spent three weeks exploring Malaysia and Singapore during the early summer of 1999.

What was our most memorable experience?

Downing the freshest food possible at the night market in conservative Moslem Kota Bharu? Sharing a walkway with an orangutan at the Semenggok rehabilitation center outside of Kuching? Alternating between feelings of ecstasy and pain during a foot massage in Singapore? Sharing tuak (rice wine drink) with Iban longhouse members in the depths of the Borneo jungle? Or maybe, simply the joy of spying on a giant sea turtle idling on the ocean floor just a few feet off the shore on the Perhentian Islands?

Hard to choose, right?
June/July 199936 Images5691 visitsAlbum by David KohlPhotos by David Kohl & Ross Rosenberg
Enlarge photo 1 Petronas Towers, Kuala Lumpur
At the time, they were considered to be the tallest buildings in the world (if you include their antenna-like masts). Completed in 1998, these 88-story buildings are the symbol of the "new Malaysia".
Enlarge photo 2 Kuala Lumpur train station
Built in 1911, this British-constructed train station is a Moorish-inspired melange of spires, towers and arches.
Enlarge photo 3 Batu Caves
The Batu Caves are the site of a yearly masochistic ritual where hundreds of Hindu devotees pierce their skin with hooks (that attach to small pots of milk!) and trek up this 272-step entry. A Hindu shrine awaits inside.
Enlarge photo 4 Bako National Park, Borneo
On the way to Sarawak's oldest national park - Baku.  Over 50 miles of trail wind through Baku's dense jungle.  Long-tailed macaque monkeys can be seen in abundance.  But be warned that they are aggressive theives -slyly snatching bags and cameras away from the unaware.
Enlarge photo 5 Kuching, Borneo
Early morning view taken from our hotel room window (through glass).
Enlarge photo 6 Orangutans
Orangutans heeding the feeding call at the Semenggok Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre, located a few miles outside the city of Kuching.  It is only one of three orangutan rehabilitation centers in the world.
Enlarge photo 7 Close encounter
Visitors are not permitted to feed or touch the orangutans.  But that doesn't stop you from getting close to them.  As in this photo, sometimes you'll even share a walkway with one.
Enlarge photo 8 Photo Op
The Centre seeks to rehabilitate orangutans, monkeys and other animals that have been orphaned or injured by poachers.
Enlarge photo 9 Ready for a close up
Mother and baby orangutan just hanging out.  Orangutans can weigh up to 220lbs and have an armspan of 8 feet.  They are the only species of 'great ape' to be found outside of Africa.
Enlarge photo 10 Batang Ai Reservoir
In motorized boats we head out to visit nearby Iban longhouses in Batang Ai National Park.  The longhouses are a half hour journey by boat from the only hotel in the park.
Enlarge photo 11 Welcome to the longhouse
Gifts are a must for any longhouse visit.  Cigarettes and alcohol are preferred but any food item is appreciated.
Enlarge photo 12 Iban longhouse greeter
The Ibans are the single largest ethnic group in Sarawak (one of the two Malaysian states on Borneo).  The Iban tribespeople used to be headhunters.  Emphasize "used".
Enlarge photo 13 Inside the longhouse
The longhouses are traditionally constructed of ironwood.  Shoes must be removed once inside. Each family occupies a separate apartment that opens to a central common room which runs the length of the house.
Enlarge photo 14 Longhouse traditional dance
Enlarge photo 15 Ceremonial dress
Enlarge photo 16 Pepper drying on longhouse deck
Pepper is one of Sarawak's main export.
Enlarge photo 17 Singapore
Singapore is located just 1 degree north of the equator. This island country, with a population of 2.7 million, is comprised of one large island and 58 outlying islands.
Enlarge photo 18 Chinese Gardens, Singapore
Tower staircase in a building in the Chinese Gardens.
Enlarge photo 19 Indian meal served on a banana leaf
A typical meal at a vegetarian Indian restaurant in Johor Bahru -a Malaysian border town with Singapore.
Enlarge photo 20 Market view in Kota Bahru
The central market in Kota Bharu.  Produce is sold on the first floor; clothes and spices are for sale on the two upper levels.
Enlarge photo 21 Jackfruit
The fruit of the jackfuit is often combined in ice cream and other desserts in southeast Asia.
Enlarge photo 22 Batik painter in Kota Bahru
Batik is made by drawing in wax on cloth. The material is then dyed. The wax is melted away. Another wax design can be drawn and another dye applied - depending on the number of colors the painter chooses to include.
Enlarge photo 23 Kite maker
Custom-made kites are a specialty of the Kota Bharu area - on the northeastern coast of mainland Malaysia.  They are made by applying colored paper over a split bamboo frame.
Enlarge photo 24 Which direction is Mecca?
How do you know which direction to pray when you are in a hotel room?  Simple. Look for the arrow on the ceiling.
Enlarge photo 25 Transport in Kota Bahru
A trishaw ride is best and most fun way to travel through the streets of Kota Bharu.
Enlarge photo 26 Welcome drink choice at our hotel
Which would you choose?  Alcohol was prohibited in our hotel and in most places - except Chinese restaurants - in Kota Bharu.  It was one of the most conservative Moslem cities in Malaysia that we visited.
Enlarge photo 27 Drumming demonstration
At the Gelanggang Seni (cultural center) in Kota Bharu, we were treated to a drumming demonstration.
Enlarge photo 28 Drumming demonstration
The traditional giant drums are made from chisel-cut logs.  Each drum requires two players.
Enlarge photo 29 Concert
An evening concert in Kota Bharu where guests are encouraged to participate.
Enlarge photo 30 Boat to Perhentian Islands
This is the ferry that you take from the east coast of the Malaysian mainland to the Perhentian Islands.  There are no airports on the islands.  Besides hitching a ride on the back of a giant sea turtle, this is the only way to get there.
Enlarge photo 31 Cottage at the Coral View Inn
One of the places we stayed on the Perhentian Islands.  There are no cars on the islands because there are no roads.  You either walk, take a boat or stay put.
Enlarge photo 32 Coast of Perhentian Besar
The Perhentian Islands are composed of two islands - Besar (large) and Kecil (small).  Most accomodations are found on Besar.
Enlarge photo 33 Perhentian Beach View
The crystaline waters of the Perhentians are home to a multitude of otherworldly-colored fish as well as giant sea turtles.
Enlarge photo 34 Looming storm
During our stay, every evening was puncuated by at least one tropical downpour.  A looming storm at sea is approaching in this view.
Enlarge photo 35 Ferry dock
Ferry dock for the daily boats going to and from the mainland.
Enlarge photo 36 Classic beach view
The Perhentians truly felt like an island paradise.  White sand, turquoise water and no nightlife -except for the nocturnal thunderstorms.