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Guatemala Semana Santa 2010
We kicked off our Guatemalan Easter Week in Santiago Atitlan, along the shores of Lake Atitlan. The town is also the home of the venerated statue of Maximon: an indigenous, fictional half-breed - part Judas, part Spanish conquistador.  On the Monday evening following Palm Sunday, we watched - along with the the women and children of the village - the men wash Maximon's clothes in the lake's waters.
 
After laundry night, we sped back to Antigua for the main attraction -  one of the most lavish Holy Week celebrations in all of Central America. Each day during Semana Santa, procession participants - carrying giant apparitions of suffering Christs and weeping Marys - trudge for hours along the city's sawdust- and flower-carpeted streets. The Lenten activities culminate with the largest and most somber procession on Good Friday evening.

But for us, the high point (figuratively and literally) of the week was the long-anticipated hike up Pacaya Volcano.  Pacaya is one of the few active volcanoes that can be climbed. It is a dangerous and potentially lethal ascent: fascinating, nightmarish - like walking over hell. And we have the melted shoes to prove it.
March/April 2010100 Images5096 visitsAlbum by David KohlPhotos by David Kohl & Ross Rosenberg
Enlarge photo 1 View of San Pedro Volcano
View of San Pedro Volcano (about 10,000 feet tall)from the dock at the Posada Santiago, Santiago Atitlan.
Enlarge photo 2 Wash Day at Santiago Atitlan
Every day is wash day along the shores of Lake Atitlan outside the village of Santiago Atitlan.
Enlarge photo 3 Fisherman on Lake Atitlan
Early morning on Lake Atitlan.
Enlarge photo 4 Fisherman Close Up
View of a fisherman drawing in his net from his dugout boat on Lake Atitlan.
Enlarge photo 5 Walking man
A Santiago man in the traditional striped calzones (trousers) with a a faja (cloth sash) and caites (sandals), on his way to work early one morning.
Enlarge photo 6 View from Panajachel
A view across Lake Atitlan from the dock at Panajachel with Volcan Toliman on the left and Volcan San Pedro on the right.
Enlarge photo 7 Lake Atitlan woman
A woman using her kaperraj (an all-purpose cloth) to afford her some privacy on a lancha (small boat) crossing Lake Atitlan.
Enlarge photo 8 Let's talk
Two kids chatting on the deck of a lancha during a crossing on Lake Atitlan.
Enlarge photo 9 Posada Santiago
The restaurant and common area of the Posada Santiago.
Enlarge photo 10 Night scene
The restaurant at the Posada Santiago on a Saturday night during a folk music performance.
Enlarge photo 11 Church view
The Iglesia Parroquial Santiago Apostol - built between 1572 and 1581 - supposedly has (at the center of its nave) a hole to the underworld.  This hole is only uncovered on Good Friday.  On that day, a cross - bearing a statue of Christ - is lowered into it.
Enlarge photo 12 Church view with volcano
Volcan Toliman can be glimpsed behind the church.  The Mayans believed that the volcanoes represent the first dry land to emerge from the seas at the time of creation.
Enlarge photo 13 Don't do that here!
A sign on a wall outside the church prohibiting urination at this spot - unless you want to risk a Q100 fine.  Hey, when you have to go...
Enlarge photo 14 Palm Sunday - Santiago
Local men decorating the cross in the church's plaza with palms early Palm Sunday morning.
Enlarge photo 15 Local women
Local women of Santiago crossing the church plaza.  The Spanish imposed different colored striped clothing on each town to help them differentiate and ultimately control the indigenous people.  The women embellished the striped clothing with their own distinctive and creative embroidery.
Enlarge photo 16 Mural at San Juan La Laguna
One of the many murals on the exterior walls of the lake town of San Juan La Laguna. This mural was created as a joint project between Indiana school kids and local San Juan artists.
Enlarge photo 17 Mural Detail
Read more about this collaborative project at:Arts Across the Americas
Enlarge photo 18 San Juan mural
A depiction of the horrific flooding and mudslide - caused by Hurricane Stan - that buried the nearby town of Panabaj in 2005.
Enlarge photo 19 Mural (with gringo)
Another San Juan mural.
Enlarge photo 20 San Juan mural
San Juan mural recreating a coffee harvesting scene.
Enlarge photo 21 San Juan mural
San Juan mural depicting local wildlife.
Enlarge photo 22 Volcano mural
San Juan lake scene mural of a boy flying a kite.  A local boy (with cap pulled down) was captured in this photo along with the mural.
Enlarge photo 23 Washing ceremony
Once a year, on the Monday following Palm Sunday, the members of confradia (local brotherhood) wash Maximon's clothes at the lakeside.
Enlarge photo 24 Washing scene
This is the only time of the year when Santiago men can be seen doing laundry.  They believe that Maximon's clothes hold the sins that were confessed to him throughout the year - as well as all that smoke and dirt.
Enlarge photo 25 Washing ceremony
Maximon - a small wooden statue/effigy of a man dressed in western clothes - is part Judas, part Pedro Alvarado, and part unknowable.  Throughout the year he is housed with a member of the confradia.
Enlarge photo 26 Washing ceremony
A local woman takes a drink (alcoholic, of course) as she watches the men wash Maximon's clothes.
Enlarge photo 27 Washing scene
The women of Santiago wear a unique hair belt or xk'op (in the local tzutujil language). The cloth is usually at least 60 feet long and wrapped tightly around the head.  It has the look of a colorful thick-brimmed hat.
Enlarge photo 28 Washing scene
After the clothes are washed - on special stones carried to the site - they are ceremoniously dried by the sun throughout the following day.  From the amount of alcohol consumed, the participants also needed to spend the next day "drying out".
Enlarge photo 29 Washing scene
Throughout the year, you can visit Maximon.  But make sure to bring an offering of cigarettes or alcohol.  Make a virtual contribution to Maximon.
Enlarge photo 30 Washing scene
This photo - taken without a flash - shows how dark it really was at the lakeside ceremony that night.
Enlarge photo 31 Antigua street scene
Looking south - down 1 Avenida Sur - toward San Fransisco Church and Volcan Agua looming behind it.
Enlarge photo 32 Municipalidad
The Municipalidad building fronting Parque Central.  The government building is decked in purple bunting in honor of Holy Week.
Enlarge photo 33 Velacion at San Fransisco Church
A Velacion or Holy Vigil take place the day before the church's procession.  A colored, sawdust carpet is laid out in the nave of the church.
Enlarge photo 34 Carpet at San Francisco Church
This colored, sawdust carpet - created by the hermandad (brotherhood) of the church - is laid out in front of the sculpture.  Offerings of fruits and vegetables border the carpet
Enlarge photo 35 Velacion close up
The church's sculpture of Christ is placed in front of a large painted, paper backdrop.  The following day, the sculpture is used in the main float in the church's procession.
Enlarge photo 36 Alfombra Creation - Maundy Thursday
We participated - along with members of the Colegio Americano de Guatemala and the owner of the wonderful La Casa de Los Gigantes - in creating a carpet (alfombra) on early Thursday morning.  The process begins with the spreading and wetting of pine needles.
Enlarge photo 37 Ross and Rachel
The alfombra was created on 7 Calle Oriente - in front of the Casa de Los Gigantes store and on the north side of San Fransisco church.
Enlarge photo 38 Maundy Thursday - Alfombra Creation
Business owners and homeowners - usually with the assistance of family and friends - create a carpet in the area of the street in front of their business or residence.
Enlarge photo 39 Alfombra Creation
Carpets are usually made with either sawdust or a combination of flowers, pine needles or other plant forms.  Some are created free-form - like this one - while others are formed by using stencils.
Enlarge photo 40 Alfombra Completion
The name given to our carpet was "tree of life" or "arbol de la vida".  The tree form (to the left) is created by flowers to mimic the four seasons.  There is a wreath in the center and a white dove to the lower right.