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The Spanish Flyer, my V-Max
2000 V-Max, original European version, very modified in all aspects, maybe too many to mention.
Date(s): December 19, 2001. Album by Charles J. Sena. Photos by Charles J. Sena. 1 - 314 of 314 Total. 4379 Visits.
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My totally naked Max. It still has that brute character that I love.

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Ohlins, Billet swinging arm by Fischer, Billet (brand)four piston calliper, Galfer solid disc, Lightcon 17" wheel and Diablo radial tire, a great combination for perfect handling.

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OUT FROM THE WINTER SLEEP, REMOVED ALL PAINTABLE BITS AND IT STILL LOOKS HANDSOME..I MEAN THE BIKE. MONSTER BRUTE 1

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MASSIVE HEADLIGHT AND FORKZ, PITY YOU CAN'T RIDE WITHOUT THE MUDGUARD AND PIPES.

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1.500, Carrillo Long Rods, Magnafluxed & balanced crank, a beautiful piece of engineering from PCW.

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Gasflowed heads,bigger valves, manifold bore size as big as it can get, walls in some places must be paper thin... The beauty of raw power.

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Allen screw in place to avoid oil from seeping out from the engine. Yomama was pretty tight here with tolerances. You must remember to use some thread lock or Teflon to avoid oil leaks.

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MASSIVE MONSTER WAITING TO BE CLEANED & DRESSED

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SPA REV-COUNTER AND SPEEDO, WHAT THE STANDARD BIKE SHOULD HAVE.

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Now here is where all Maxes fail to deliver quality and design. I'm sure anybody with a two inch brain could improve this design, avoiding the O-ring to pop-out with the oil pressure... Well reality proves different.

This is my 1500 LR engine with exactly the same problem as any other standard Max. Looks like they tried with a thicker O-ring, but if anything the result is even worse; the surplus rubber was cut clean off from the O-ring.


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Another very clear view of the disaster that can lead to catastrophic effects.

The LR engine is equipped with a higher volume oil pump. To what use is this if this dammed O-ring bursts?


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Same thing different angle.  Simply I cannot believe my eyes.

Hate to think how many miles I've done with the O-ring in that condition... My guess is that it blew-up during the dyno test carried out in the workshop, before the engine was delivered to me.


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MY ELBOW HAPPENS TO BE FROM A 1998 CANADIAN VERSION MAX AND FOR THAT REASON IT STILL IS THE EARLIER ONE. IT IS MY BELIEVE THAT IN ORDER TO GET THE JOB PROPERLY DONE, I NOT ONLY HAVE TO INSTALL THE BRACKET, BUT ASLO CHANGE THE ELBOW AND O-RING.

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THIS IS WHAT I FOUND IN MY ENGINE. OF COURSE THE O-RING HAD SHEARED AND WAS COMPLETELY OUT OF PLACE. THIS ELBOW IS THE OLD PRE-99 VERSION. I SERIOUSLY RECOMMEND ANY MAX OWNER TO REPLACE IT WITH THE NEWER VERSION.

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A SMALL RUBBER SPACER WAS ADDED BY THE TUNING COMPANY, BUT IT SERVED NO GOOD PURPOSE. JUST LOOK AT WHAT HAPENED WITH THE O-RING. MORE SO, A THICKER O-RING SUCH AS THE ONE USED HERE DOES NOT SORT OUT THE PROBLEM, ON THE CONTRARY, IT IS VERY HARD TO FIT IN PLACE AND THE EXCESS RUBBER IS SHEARED OFF BETWEEN THE GALLERY ORIFICE TAPER AND THE TUBE O-RING SUPPORT.

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BIG DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE EARLIER (RIGHT) AND THE NEW 1999 AND OVER VERSION. PITTY YOU CANNOT GET THE ELBOW ALONE...

SOME OF THESE PICS HAVE BEEN BORROWED FROM:
http://www.angelfire.com/ia/z/vmaxoilring.htm . THIS WEBSITE IS A MUST FOR ANY MAX OWNER.

I THANK OUR V-MAX FRIEND FOR THE GREAT DETAIL AND CLEAR PICS SHOWN.


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I HAD NO TIME TO WAIT FOR THE NEWER ELBOW TO ARRIVE FROM YOMAMA, SO I GROUND DOWN ABOUT 3mm OFF FROM THE TOP OF THE PIPE. JUST LEFT ENOUGH TO HOLD THE RING IN PLACE.
OF COURSE THIS IS A TEMPORARY MEASURE AND THE PARTS HAVE BEEN ORDERED. THE BEST BET THOUGH IS TO GET A 1999-2005 ELBOW AS SHOWN ON PICS 7 TO 9 TOGETHER WITH THE NEW O-RING. SEEMS THOUGH THAT YAMANHA DO NOT SELL THE ELBOW ALONE, BUT THE WHOLE SHOOTING GALLERY.
THE PART Nº FOR THE NEW SET-UP IS:"DELIVERY PIPE ASSY" 26H-Y1319-10-00. THE OLD VERSION REF. IS ALMOST THE SAME SO DON'T BE FOOLED (26H-Y1319-01-00).


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BEFORE GRINDING; THE O-RING POSITION IS RIGHT WHERE THE TAPER OR CONICAL PART OF THE OIL ORIFICE IS. WHATEVER YOU DO TO FIX THE ELBOW IN PLACE, THE O-RING IS BOUND TO COME OUT WITH THE OIL PRESSURE.

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NOW THAT IS MUCH BETTER! STILL I REPEAT, THE BEST BET IS TO GET ONE OF THE NEWER ELBOWS, SINCE BY GRINDING THE TOP I HAVE LOST PART OF THE TIGHTENING EFFECT THAT THE BRACKET HAS ON THE ELBOW.

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IN ORDER TO AVOID REMOVING THE OIL GALLERY BETWEEN THE PUMP AND THE FILTER I WIGGLED MY WAY THROUGH IN THE FOLLOWING MANNER.
"Hello You can send a drawing of t..."
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SIMPLE ISN'T IT?

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MAKE SURE JON'S BRACKET IS IN THE RIGHT SPOT AND THEN USE A RACHET WRENCH TO TAKE THE LONG BOLT ALL THE WAY IN. ONCE IT IS HAND TIGHT GET A TORQUE WRENCH TO TIGHTEN IT TO THE RIGHT TORQUE SPECS.

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TO TIGHTEN THIS VERY IMPORTANT BOLT YOU NEED A TORQUE WRENCH AND TIGHTEN IT TO THE APPROPRIATE TORQUE. AS JON STATED, 43 Nm.

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NOW THAT IS A SOLID FIXING BRACKET!!
EVEN THOUGH I HAD REMOVED SOME mm FROM THE TOP OF MY PIPE, THE BRACKET EMBRACES AND HOLDS THE PIPE IN PLACE AS TIGHT AS YOU CAN GET IT.
GREAT INVENTION JON, KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK (jonpullara@vmaxchat.co.uk)


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PROBLEM WITH THE BOLT SOLUTION IS THAT YOU CANNOT DRILL THE CASE AND EXPECT ALL THE ALLOY SHAVINGS TO CLEAR-OUT, SOME WILL STAY IN THE ENGINE.
FOR THAT REASON THIS WOULD BE A GOOD AFTER ENGINE STRIP JOB. THE BRACKET HOWEVER HOLDS THE PIPE PERFECTLY WELL IN PLACE AND IS A MUST TO THOSE LIKE ME THAT HAVE A RUNNING ENGINE.


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THIS SOLUTION COULD BE DONE ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE HAS BEEN STRIPPED DOWN, SO NO METAL DEBRIS REMAINS INSIDE THE ENGINE, BUT THE NEW STEEL PIPE IS A GOOD IDEA AS LONG AS YOU HAVE SOMEONE TO MANUFACTURE IT.

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I BELIEVE YAMAHA ONLY SELLS A COMPLETE TUBE SYSTEM. THIS MEANS THAT IF YOU WANT THE IMPROVED ELBOW (1999 AND LATER), YOU HAVE TO ORDER THE WHOLE KIT. TAKE A LOOK ON THE FOLLOWING PICS TO SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE EARLIER ELBOW AND THE NEWER IMPROVED VERSION.

I'M AFRAID THAT PRE 99 OWNERS, IF THEY WANT TO GET PERFECT RESULTS FROM THE BRACKET KIT, THEY MUST ALSO GET THE NEW ELBOW WHICH MEANS GETTING THE WHOLE PIPING ASSEMBLY FROM YAMAHA (PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG).OR DO AS I DID, REDUCE THE TOP PART OF THE ELBOW, THE ONE THAT FITS INTO THE CRANKASE GALLERY.(SEE PIC #6)


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IN ORDER NOT TO DISTURB THE OIL PIPE THAT FEEDS THE OIL FROM THE PUMP TO THE FILTER, I MANAGED TO FIND A WAY TO INSTALL THE SUPPORT BRACKET WITHOUT REMOVING THE PUMP. AS IT HAPPENS, THIS PIPE AS IT IS, DOES NOT WIGGLE AND HAS A PRETTY TIGHT FIT.

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WHEN I REMOVED THE SUMP LOWER COVER I FOUND A LOSE DOWEL PIN THAT I CANNOT EVEN GUESS WHERE IT IS SUPPOSED TO GO. THE TWO THAT HOLD THIS CASE IN PLACE ARE SMALLER AND STAYED WITH THE LOWER CRANK CASE. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE THIS ELEMENT IS MEANT TO GO? I HAVEN'T A CLUE....
"Hi, I think it is one of the quiding..."
"There aye 2 dowels to locate the sum..."
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Oh my Gawd!!
Metal particles on the sump...
Not so, just bad finish on the internal wall of the sump cover.


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Sump lower cover off. On the lower lefthand side the oil level sender. The famous acceleration red light trigger... many confused owners think it is an oil pressure warning device.

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"bitchen ride"
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"I'm at a loss for words but in short..."
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"I realy like your handlebars so can ..."
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NEVER EVER USE THESE FOAM FILTERS!
ONE: THE ENGINE SUCTION IS SO STRONG AT HIGH RPM THAT THEY COLLAPSE NOT ALLOWING THE ENGINE TO BREATHE AND TWO: IF YOUR ENGINE BACKFIRES THE FOAM CAN CATCH FIRE (I KNOW OF TWO CASES, AND IN ONE CASE THE BIKE WAS DESTROYED COMPLETELY)


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TRIED BOTH THE STANDARD AND THE BLUE "HIGHER" SCREENS, AND HAVE DECIDED TO USE THE STANDARD FOR NORMAL RIDING AND THE BLUE ONE ONLY FOR LONG HIGHWAY TRIPS. THE SMALLER ONE LOOKS BETTER IN MY OPINION.

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"She is one fine.... motorcycle! Tak..."
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BIG BLUE/BACK SCREEN, GREAT FOR LONG RIDES, OR HALF HELMET USE

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WITH THIS LARGER SCREEN I AM READY FOR LONGER TRIPS OR SHORTER HALF FACE HELMETS. IT REALLY DOES COVER YOU AGAINST THE WIND. I PREFER THE ORIGINAL, BUT SOME TIMES YOU HAVE TO MAKE A COMPROMISE

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"thet is the best looking exaust syst..."
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I clearly like this Triuph 600 headlight. I just want to add a small screen to help me at speed riding and I will fit it to the Max. The one used by Lazareth Design, out of an R1 is too big to my liking, check-up ( http://perso.wanadoo.fr/lazareth/
Fiches/F.Vmax2001/FicheVMax2001.html ) so you understand what I mean.


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"these is a very nice scooter i have ..."
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"HEY WHARE DID YOU GET THE REAR FENDE..."
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"SEXY THING YOU"
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These are the bars I am looking for. I've tried several, but they are either too wide or too straight. I'm sure these are custom built, so I guess I will have to make them myself from a set of dragbars. In case anybody recognises them, please contact me immediately. TIA.
"those are a style of cafe racer bars"
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Slightly blurr photo of the 41 mm Keihin flatslides. No filters are included, but can be purchased from PCW as an accessory.

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Easy to access jets and float bowls compared to the original cv's, which were a total nuisance. Still, these carbs barely fit in the space for them, but have clear advantages over the ones with the stacks pointing outwards, due to having much better protection against foreign objects, speed wind interaction and knee interference.
"U.F.O. now has lovered chrome air fi..."
"With the stacks or filters pointing ..."
"So what if they are in the rain??? D..."
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The Flatslides are by far the noisiest part of the engine when idling. The so called carb chatter is caused by the slack fit of the flaatslide in the carb body. The slide actually runs on small wheels

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This is just a view from the top of the original engine. The PCW engine has much bigger inlet ducts, with the Stage 4 preparation and bigger Stainless Steel valves.

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Front view, showing the right hand can almost in place.

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Right side in general was easier, but it is still not ready, just put in place.

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All those nasty and dangerous edges have to be grinded and painted.

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Support lugs for the centre stand almost gone, what a shame.........

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Almost done with cutting the support lugs. will finish grinding down and removing all burr after I get the pipes all in the rigght place and everything fits perfectly

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Cutting off the centre stand lugs. Yes they also have to go.

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All pipes removed and the centre stand as well. The PCW 4 into 1 into 2 is a very complicated system due to the design, where as all headers must have the same length to finish in the 4 into 1 piece, it is also an incremental pipe design, so to make the pipes equal lenght is a big challenge, but to fit them is clearly not for the inexperienced. You get rid of the centre stand and the fixing lugs as well. Now I will have to make a proper rolling stand for when I want the bike upright. the one in the photo was fixed temporarily.

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PCW 4 into 1 into 2 system with tapered design pipes to give maximum power to their big engines. You have to lose your centre stand, but that is the only way you can get so much spaggetti pipe in such a small area. the big dint on the left side is meant for chain driven bikes.
"I wouldn't plug that pipe, it will p..."
"It's better than a breather!!!"
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PCW 4 into 1 into 2 headers with increasing diameter pipe to give maximum power to their big Long Rod engines.
"Increasing diameter pipes will help ..."
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Side view of the preassembled PCW 4 into 1 into two. Very easy to preassemble, but go and install them on the bike, you'll have more than one laugh..........

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WOT or "Deep Throat". I´m still trying to understand what happens in this area when you are riding over 100 mph, would some kind of scoops or RAM air design help the engine give more power? and again, do I need it?
"??? Red zone at 8500rpm???"
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Newly designed engine airbreather piping and can. Made out of Stainless Steel pipe and capable of coping with the heaviest breathing the engine can produce. It also allows for PCW filters to be installed. The outlet pipe ends up on the rear of the bike, but avoiding turbulence or ventury effects

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This was the breather set-up I had in the begining, clearly not enough. I asked PCW and they make a box that as far as I know, does not allow you to use filters on these carbs. I went my way and made a breather can that fits in the front, right under the gauge and light dash board. I must leave room for the filters, because I have already ordered them and I think they should be installed.

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When purchasing a core engine, its number must coincide with the one on your documents.......

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If you enlarge the photo, you will be able to notice the copper headgasket used by PCW. It's thickness will of course affect the engine compression and is used by PCW to limit the maximum power output of otherwise exact engines. This point has to be corrected since it is not right. All Long Rods use the same gasket; the compression depends on the work done to the top of the pistons.

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PCW's 1500 Long Rod core engine just out of the box. No transport damages whatsoever

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This was before I had changed the front forks to the "MASSIVE" TUNING Formula forks and 17" wheel (France) Or replaced the engine that came from PCW in NY USA. Still it was a great looking bike.

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There are about 20 miles from Tordesillas, the town in the background to Toro, both very old towns from the Roman times..... well the road linking both towns is as straight as you can get it here in Spain. Only a two way lane but the surface is great and perfectly levelled. Slapped my magnetic tank bag and decided to try what the bike was capable of doing. First try near disaster as the tank bag came off and hit my chest while I was doing about 130 mph. After I strapped it properly, on my second try the bike achieved 165 mph in a few seconds and maintained it there for about 30 seconds. Pretty scary as the road becomes like a funnel and you don't have a chance or room to correct if something goes wrong....... I thought I had had enough for that day. Handling, braking, everything perfect, only that at times as I was changing gears the front end went all feather light like, but the bike still goes straight even if the front tyre is barely touching the tarmac.

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As it is now, The "Spanish Flyer", after almost two years modifying the bike in the spare time. The most iportant changes were to improve handling. This included a single billet rear swinging arm from Fischer (Germany), Front USD forks from TUNING Formula, 17" wheels originally from a GSX-R Suzuki and Pirelli radials Solid mounts for the engine and other smaller adjustments. On the braking side of this machine, the front brakes are from an R1 and the rear a four pot Billet unit.

Add to this the PCW 1500 Long Rod engine, where all but the engine casings have been modified, producing in excess of 190 RWHP, over 125lbs/inch torque and some cosmetics and you have the most enjoyable bike, with handling to match and power coming right from the bottom of the rev. range.

I did have a CBR929 RR, where the power comes in like a two stroker, over the 7000 rpm mark, nothing down below........ I did 500 miles and sold it, not a chance to this monster's riding pleasure.


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Where it all started..... A brand new 2000 model V-Max 1200,(which is no more than a Project bike). Not bad for speeds under 70 miles and light gentle cruising. Lack of braking power and very upsetting handling (putting it mildly), made me decide to try  and sort out its most common problems to all Maxes. Then I would proceed to install a PCW 1500 Long Rod core engine, transforming this nevertheless handsome and surprisingly powerful machine, in to the meanest and crotch rocket bike destroyer that the "Spanish Flyer" is now, and the story is not over yet....

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The Dyno test carried out in a very well equipped workshop in Gijón "Motos Jano", right after the PCW 4 into 1 into 2 set of headers was installed, was to make sure that all was ready and tuned on the bike and transmission.

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"sweet!"
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Detailed photo of the Four into One into Two; a very complicated pipe work, a challenge to the builder PCW, but it releases all the power from the Long Rod.
The ground clearance is even more limited now, so you have to take care when taking lefthanders because the lowest loop seen here will scrape badly on the road, limiting the ammount you can lean on that side. Also when you you park the bike on the walkway.... Check the next picture for clear signs, so you understand what I mean.


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"Where did you order the fischer swin..."
"hi , were and how much for the sw..."
"Where can i get the swingarm?"
"I also would like information on whe..."
"same question as below cost and wher..."
"Where did you order the fischer swin..."
"i to would like to know where i can ..."
"where did you order the fischer swin..."
"Saame as everyone else,where did you..."
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IF THE V-MAX IS NOT THE MOST BEAUTIFUL BIKE, IT MUST GET PRETTY CLOSE. MY MAX IMHO IS THE MOST SEXY, OUTRAGEOUS AND HANDSOME BIKE I HAVE EVER OWNED.............AND I HAVE NOT FINISHED YET... PROMISE

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AS YOU CAN SEE, BOTH BOTTOM AND TOP BEARINGS HAVE A RUBBER SEAL, AT LAST THE FACTORY UNITS SHOWN IN THESE PICS. THEY ARE MORE LIKE GREASE TRAPS THAN PROPER SEALS.

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LOWER HEAD BEARING WITH ITS SO CALLED "HI-CAP" AND RUBBER SEAL, MORE LIKE A GREASE TRAP.

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TOP BEARING WITH ITS OWN RUBBER GREASE TRAP.

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SIDE VIEW

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I HAVE JUST PURCHASED THE BT1100 BULLDOG HEAD LIGHT AND COCKPIT FAIRING AND ALTHOUGH THESE PHOTOS ARE FAKE, IT GIVES ME AN IDEA OF WHAT IT WILL LOOK LIKE WHEN I HAVE IT INSTALLED. SURELY IT WILL BE BETTER THAN THE FLYSCREEN, SPECIALLY IF I INSTALL THE BLUE SCREEN SHOWN ON NEXT PICTURE.

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"Now that's a nice buke ...wow Mariu..."
"I meant BIKE sorry"
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This little guy has left me without gas too many times, the little float inside must be full of dirt. Problem is that I cannot finish the bike till I get a replacement.

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WATER PUMP COVER WITH ENGINE PROTECTION

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ALTERNATOR COVER WITH ENGINE PROTECTION FROM GENETIC BIKE.

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ENGINE DETAIL WITH THE OVER RACING REAR SETS AND THE CLUTCH COVER.
THE TANK RIGHT PANEL IS MISSING DUE TO ADJUSTMENTS FOR THE BRAKE HOSE NEW ROUTING.


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THESE WERE THE FIRST PARTS I RECEIVED FROM GENETIC, BILLET CLUTCH COVER AND OUTPUT GEAR COVER.
THE CYLINDER WIDER SIDE PLATES WERE ALSO DELIVERED BY THEM


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CLUTCH AND OUTPUT GEAR COVERS VIEWED FROM THE BACK

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THESE FILTER UNITS TOGETHER WITH THE SUDCO ADAPTERS, PURCHASED FROM PCW WILL BE IN PLACE DURING NORMAL RUNNING CONDITIONS. I MIGHT LOOSE A BIT, BUT WHEN YOU HAVE MORE THAN ENOUGH POWER, IT MAKES SENSE TO USE SOME PROTECTION. THEY LOOK TOO BIG TO FIT IN THE LITTLE ROOM LEFT ON TOP OF THE KEIHINS.....
THOSE WHO INSTEAD USE THE ROUND FOAM DISC THAT FITS AROUND THE STACK MOUTH WITH A RUBBER ADAPTER AND A MESH BACK-UP WILL SURELY AFFECT THE ENGINE PERFORMANCE DUE TO AIR STARVATION, BUT IN THE CASE OF THE V-GAS, YOU HAVE NO OPTION, THESE UNI FILTERS WOULD LOOK HILARIOUS ON THEM........

"but you don't have to worry about un..."
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AS I MENTIONED BEFORE, THERE IS NOT MUCH ROOM FOR THE FILTERS HERE (MAYBE I WILL CUT THE FRAME....)

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MADE IN FRANCE BY BBR FROM GSX-R WHEELS, HIGHLY POLISHED ALUMINIUM 17" WHEELS WITH PIRELLI DRAGON GTS RADIAL TYRES.
EFFECTIVELY SOLVES ALL HANDLING PROBLEMS ON THE MAX.
650 EUROS ONO WITHOUT THE TYRES.
P&P NOT INCLUDED.


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PRUEBA REALIZADA EN LA REVISTA "LA MOTO" DONDE SE ALCANZARON LOS 198 CABALLOS EN EL BANCO DE PRUEBAS. EN DICHA PRUEBA LA MOTO LLEVABA ESCAPES 4 A 1 A 2 DISEÑADO POR EL FABRICANTE DEL MOTOR. AHORA CON LOS HOLESHOTS HA PERDIDO COMO POCO UN 30% DE LA POTENCIA.....HAY QUE CONSEGUIR RECUPERAR LO MAS POSIBLE.

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VISTA DE LOS DOS COLECTORES Y EL SITIO DONDE TIENE QUE LLEVAR EL TUBO DE COMPENSACIÓN. NO LLEVA CABALLETE CENTRAL Y HAY SITIO DE SOBRA.

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OTRA VISTA DE LOS DOS COLECTORES DESDE ABAJO, MOSTRANDO LAS COLEXIONES A LOS COLECTORES DE SALIDA DE LOS CUATRO CILINDROS. EN LA PARTE SUPERIOR SE APRECIA EL BASCULANTE TRASERO DE ALUMINIO MECANIZADO.

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VISTA LATERAL DESDE EL LADO DERECHO, APRECIANDO EL SILENCIOSO HOLESHOT.

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VISTA LATERAL IZQUIERDA

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TUBO DE CONEXIÓN ENTRE EL LADO IZQUIERDO Y EL LADO DERECHO. EL TUBO TIENE QUE SER DE UNOS 45 mm Y LLEVAR UNA UNIÓN EN EL MEDIO PARA PODER MONTAR Y DESMONTAR. LOS TUBOS ACTUALES LLEVAN UN RECUBRIMIENTO DE CERÁMICA QUE HAY UE INTENTAR DAÑAR LO MENOS POSIBLE.

 
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