2000 V-Max, original European version, very modified in all aspects, maybe too many to mention.
Date(s): December 19, 2001. Album by Charles J. Sena. Photos by Charles J. Sena. 1 - 314 of 314 Total. 16277 Visits.
1 My totally naked Max. It still has that brute character that I love.
2 Ohlins, Billet swinging arm by Fischer, Billet (brand)four piston calliper, Galfer solid disc, Lightcon 17" wheel and Diablo radial tire, a great combination for perfect handling.
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10 OUT FROM THE WINTER SLEEP, REMOVED ALL PAINTABLE BITS AND IT STILL LOOKS HANDSOME..I MEAN THE BIKE. MONSTER BRUTE 1
11 MASSIVE HEADLIGHT AND FORKZ, PITY YOU CAN'T RIDE WITHOUT THE MUDGUARD AND PIPES.
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13 1.500, Carrillo Long Rods, Magnafluxed & balanced crank, a beautiful piece of engineering from PCW.
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15 Gasflowed heads,bigger valves, manifold bore size as big as it can get, walls in some places must be paper thin... The beauty of raw power.
16 Allen screw in place to avoid oil from seeping out from the engine. Yomama was pretty tight here with tolerances. You must remember to use some thread lock or Teflon to avoid oil leaks.
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18 MASSIVE MONSTER WAITING TO BE CLEANED & DRESSED
19 SPA REV-COUNTER AND SPEEDO, WHAT THE STANDARD BIKE SHOULD HAVE.
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21 Now here is where all Maxes fail to deliver quality and design. I'm sure anybody with a two inch brain could improve this design, avoiding the O-ring to pop-out with the oil pressure... Well reality proves different.
This is my 1500 LR engine with exactly the same problem as any other standard Max. Looks like they tried with a thicker O-ring, but if anything the result is even worse; the surplus rubber was cut clean off from the O-ring.
22 Another very clear view of the disaster that can lead to catastrophic effects.
The LR engine is equipped with a higher volume oil pump. To what use is this if this dammed O-ring bursts?
23 Same thing different angle. Simply I cannot believe my eyes.
Hate to think how many miles I've done with the O-ring in that condition... My guess is that it blew-up during the dyno test carried out in the workshop, before the engine was delivered to me.
24 MY ELBOW HAPPENS TO BE FROM A 1998 CANADIAN VERSION MAX AND FOR THAT REASON IT STILL IS THE EARLIER ONE. IT IS MY BELIEVE THAT IN ORDER TO GET THE JOB PROPERLY DONE, I NOT ONLY HAVE TO INSTALL THE BRACKET, BUT ASLO CHANGE THE ELBOW AND O-RING.
25 THIS IS WHAT I FOUND IN MY ENGINE. OF COURSE THE O-RING HAD SHEARED AND WAS COMPLETELY OUT OF PLACE. THIS ELBOW IS THE OLD PRE-99 VERSION. I SERIOUSLY RECOMMEND ANY MAX OWNER TO REPLACE IT WITH THE NEWER VERSION.
26 A SMALL RUBBER SPACER WAS ADDED BY THE TUNING COMPANY, BUT IT SERVED NO GOOD PURPOSE. JUST LOOK AT WHAT HAPENED WITH THE O-RING. MORE SO, A THICKER O-RING SUCH AS THE ONE USED HERE DOES NOT SORT OUT THE PROBLEM, ON THE CONTRARY, IT IS VERY HARD TO FIT IN PLACE AND THE EXCESS RUBBER IS SHEARED OFF BETWEEN THE GALLERY ORIFICE TAPER AND THE TUBE O-RING SUPPORT.
27 BIG DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE EARLIER (RIGHT) AND THE NEW 1999 AND OVER VERSION. PITTY YOU CANNOT GET THE ELBOW ALONE...
SOME OF THESE PICS HAVE BEEN BORROWED FROM: http://www.angelfire.com/ia/z/vmaxoilring.htm . THIS WEBSITE IS A MUST FOR ANY MAX OWNER.
I THANK OUR V-MAX FRIEND FOR THE GREAT DETAIL AND CLEAR PICS SHOWN.
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30 I HAD NO TIME TO WAIT FOR THE NEWER ELBOW TO ARRIVE FROM YOMAMA, SO I GROUND DOWN ABOUT 3mm OFF FROM THE TOP OF THE PIPE. JUST LEFT ENOUGH TO HOLD THE RING IN PLACE. OF COURSE THIS IS A TEMPORARY MEASURE AND THE PARTS HAVE BEEN ORDERED. THE BEST BET THOUGH IS TO GET A 1999-2005 ELBOW AS SHOWN ON PICS 7 TO 9 TOGETHER WITH THE NEW O-RING. SEEMS THOUGH THAT YAMANHA DO NOT SELL THE ELBOW ALONE, BUT THE WHOLE SHOOTING GALLERY. THE PART Nº FOR THE NEW SET-UP IS:"DELIVERY PIPE ASSY" 26H-Y1319-10-00. THE OLD VERSION REF. IS ALMOST THE SAME SO DON'T BE FOOLED (26H-Y1319-01-00).
31 BEFORE GRINDING; THE O-RING POSITION IS RIGHT WHERE THE TAPER OR CONICAL PART OF THE OIL ORIFICE IS. WHATEVER YOU DO TO FIX THE ELBOW IN PLACE, THE O-RING IS BOUND TO COME OUT WITH THE OIL PRESSURE.
32 NOW THAT IS MUCH BETTER! STILL I REPEAT, THE BEST BET IS TO GET ONE OF THE NEWER ELBOWS, SINCE BY GRINDING THE TOP I HAVE LOST PART OF THE TIGHTENING EFFECT THAT THE BRACKET HAS ON THE ELBOW.
33 IN ORDER TO AVOID REMOVING THE OIL GALLERY BETWEEN THE PUMP AND THE FILTER I WIGGLED MY WAY THROUGH IN THE FOLLOWING MANNER.
34 SIMPLE ISN'T IT?
35 MAKE SURE JON'S BRACKET IS IN THE RIGHT SPOT AND THEN USE A RACHET WRENCH TO TAKE THE LONG BOLT ALL THE WAY IN. ONCE IT IS HAND TIGHT GET A TORQUE WRENCH TO TIGHTEN IT TO THE RIGHT TORQUE SPECS.
36 TO TIGHTEN THIS VERY IMPORTANT BOLT YOU NEED A TORQUE WRENCH AND TIGHTEN IT TO THE APPROPRIATE TORQUE. AS JON STATED, 43 Nm.
37 NOW THAT IS A SOLID FIXING BRACKET!! EVEN THOUGH I HAD REMOVED SOME mm FROM THE TOP OF MY PIPE, THE BRACKET EMBRACES AND HOLDS THE PIPE IN PLACE AS TIGHT AS YOU CAN GET IT. GREAT INVENTION JON, KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK (jonpullara@vmaxchat.co.uk)
38 PROBLEM WITH THE BOLT SOLUTION IS THAT YOU CANNOT DRILL THE CASE AND EXPECT ALL THE ALLOY SHAVINGS TO CLEAR-OUT, SOME WILL STAY IN THE ENGINE. FOR THAT REASON THIS WOULD BE A GOOD AFTER ENGINE STRIP JOB. THE BRACKET HOWEVER HOLDS THE PIPE PERFECTLY WELL IN PLACE AND IS A MUST TO THOSE LIKE ME THAT HAVE A RUNNING ENGINE.
39 THIS SOLUTION COULD BE DONE ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE HAS BEEN STRIPPED DOWN, SO NO METAL DEBRIS REMAINS INSIDE THE ENGINE, BUT THE NEW STEEL PIPE IS A GOOD IDEA AS LONG AS YOU HAVE SOMEONE TO MANUFACTURE IT.
40 I BELIEVE YAMAHA ONLY SELLS A COMPLETE TUBE SYSTEM. THIS MEANS THAT IF YOU WANT THE IMPROVED ELBOW (1999 AND LATER), YOU HAVE TO ORDER THE WHOLE KIT. TAKE A LOOK ON THE FOLLOWING PICS TO SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE EARLIER ELBOW AND THE NEWER IMPROVED VERSION.
I'M AFRAID THAT PRE 99 OWNERS, IF THEY WANT TO GET PERFECT RESULTS FROM THE BRACKET KIT, THEY MUST ALSO GET THE NEW ELBOW WHICH MEANS GETTING THE WHOLE PIPING ASSEMBLY FROM YAMAHA (PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG).OR DO AS I DID, REDUCE THE TOP PART OF THE ELBOW, THE ONE THAT FITS INTO THE CRANKASE GALLERY.(SEE PIC #6)
41 IN ORDER NOT TO DISTURB THE OIL PIPE THAT FEEDS THE OIL FROM THE PUMP TO THE FILTER, I MANAGED TO FIND A WAY TO INSTALL THE SUPPORT BRACKET WITHOUT REMOVING THE PUMP. AS IT HAPPENS, THIS PIPE AS IT IS, DOES NOT WIGGLE AND HAS A PRETTY TIGHT FIT.
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44 WHEN I REMOVED THE SUMP LOWER COVER I FOUND A LOSE DOWEL PIN THAT I CANNOT EVEN GUESS WHERE IT IS SUPPOSED TO GO. THE TWO THAT HOLD THIS CASE IN PLACE ARE SMALLER AND STAYED WITH THE LOWER CRANK CASE. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE THIS ELEMENT IS MEANT TO GO? I HAVEN'T A CLUE....
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47 Oh my Gawd!! Metal particles on the sump... Not so, just bad finish on the internal wall of the sump cover.
48 Sump lower cover off. On the lower lefthand side the oil level sender. The famous acceleration red light trigger... many confused owners think it is an oil pressure warning device.
61 TRIED BOTH THE STANDARD AND THE BLUE "HIGHER" SCREENS, AND HAVE DECIDED TO USE THE STANDARD FOR NORMAL RIDING AND THE BLUE ONE ONLY FOR LONG HIGHWAY TRIPS. THE SMALLER ONE LOOKS BETTER IN MY OPINION.
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65 BIG BLUE/BACK SCREEN, GREAT FOR LONG RIDES, OR HALF HELMET USE
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67 WITH THIS LARGER SCREEN I AM READY FOR LONGER TRIPS OR SHORTER HALF FACE HELMETS. IT REALLY DOES COVER YOU AGAINST THE WIND. I PREFER THE ORIGINAL, BUT SOME TIMES YOU HAVE TO MAKE A COMPROMISE
112 I clearly like this Triuph 600 headlight. I just want to add a small screen to help me at speed riding and I will fit it to the Max. The one used by Lazareth Design, out of an R1 is too big to my liking, check-up ( http://perso.wanadoo.fr/lazareth/ Fiches/F.Vmax2001/FicheVMax2001.html ) so you understand what I mean.
167 These are the bars I am looking for. I've tried several, but they are either too wide or too straight. I'm sure these are custom built, so I guess I will have to make them myself from a set of dragbars. In case anybody recognises them, please contact me immediately. TIA. "those are a style of cafe racer bars" View Comments...
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169 Slightly blurr photo of the 41 mm Keihin flatslides. No filters are included, but can be purchased from PCW as an accessory.
