Panorama Head

			• Public Gallery • Help

		• Join Now! • Log In • Feature Tour

Panorama Head

Here's how I built my own panorama head.
Comments are welcome via the guestbook.
It works well for me but, obviously, I can't guarantee it'll work well for you too.
Please use normal caution when building the head.

If you do decide to build it, please sign my guestbook and let me know how it went!!!

Date(s): February 10, 2005. Album by Lee Jay Fingersh. Photos by Lee Jay Fingersh. 1 - 13 of 13 Total.

Sign the Guestbook. Displaying 1 of 1 entries.

Construction of the pano head went pretty smoothly. I used the end mill and a drill press. I did notice that it wasn't absolutely necessary to make all of the cuts perfectly square. The ends of the bar as it comes from the factory are square. I used those ends for the counter bore ends. By the way, I can't seem to find the entrance pupil on my 24-70L. It seems that 8" is not enough slide. Any thoughts?
- Bret LeRoux, Mon, 24 Oct 2005 4:54PM

1 All the parts. Note that the parts shown don't quite match the list below and that this list is enough for two panorama heads. McMaster Carr (1) 47065T121 Rail (1) 47065T142 T-nuts 15-pack (4) 47065T153 Anchor fasteners (4) 6305K55 Adjustable levers (10) 47065T91 End caps (2) 2147A11 Bull's eye levels Standard 1/4" flat washers (4) The bull's eye level is pretty big. You can choose a different one if you like.	2 After cutting the rails. These are the actual parts used. You can cut the rails down a number of ways. From best to worst: Chop saw for aluminum Horizontal band saw Vertical band saw Hand hack saw After you finish cutting, you need to sand the ends so they are very smooth and perpendicular to the rails. A disk sander is nice but sanding by hand will work too. You can use whatever length suits the needs of your particular equipment. These are 8 inches each.	3 Counter bore. Unfortunately, the anchor fastners require a counter bore :-( If you have access to a mill, that's the way to go. If not, you may be able to do this with a reduced-shank endmill 3051A19 in a drill press. Run the press as slowly as possible and feed very slowly. It should take a minute or so for the cut. Drill in the center, .400" from the end and .400" deep. If you really don't want to attempt the counter-bores, you can use corner plates number 47065T177 instead of the anchor fasteners. Remember to get two.
4 Finish both sides. The finished product must be bored on both sides. Don't forget to de-burr!	5 The finished rails. Drill the 1/4" holes as shown. The one on the bottom is .75" from the end. The others are for the camera. Drill them where you see fit. I used 1" spacings from the end.	6 The anchors. After installation this is what the anchors look like while they are awaiting attachment.
7 Fastening it together. Attach and tighten with a ball-driver.	8 Adjustable levers. The adjustable levers attach with a T-nut. You can pull the handle out to adjust its position without loosening the bolt.	9 Don't forget the washer!
10 End caps. You can add a finishing touch if you like.	11 The finished product. You can stick the bull's eye level on wherever you think it should go. I like it on the top rail where the camera mounts.	12 Getting set up. Mount your tripod plate to a T-nut.
13 Ready to go! 10D, 17-40L. You can bolt the top-rail only to the tripod for single row system. Loosen the top left handle SLIGHTLY to pivot. Loosen it all the way to slide when finding your lens' entrance pupil (often mistakenly called the nodal point).

Select All.