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Knoll & Pregizer
Knoll and Pregizer
The Robin Deutsch Collection

Jewelry by Knoll & Pregizer. Pforzheim, Germany.

Founded in 1887 by Theodor Eberhard Friedrich Knoll and Friedrich Pregizer.
Friedrich Pregizer left the company in 1907.

Registered in 1887 (Theodor Fahrner book page 68) misspelled.
They also made watches signed KAPE registered in 1938 and also signed Lotos.
KNOLL & PREGIZER, of 16, Gioethestrasse, Pforzheim, Germany
455 Zugang 1992-53 Nr. 372 Post WWII Archive Records that show they were registered as a business from 1948-1973. however I have found a patent for a watch crystal in 1975. This, along with the 1887 date of registration as a company from the Theodor Fahrner book and patent info confirms that Knoll & Pregizer were in business from 1887 thru 1975.

Researching Google Books I found a listing from the 1970s of Der Deutsch-Amerikaner von heute:Deutsch-Amerikanisches Adressbuch fur due-by Stefan Deubel Page 383:
US Rep: Sterone Corp. 43 W. 61st Street NY, NY. Knoll & Pregizer, Pforzheim Watches & Jewelry

Marks:
KP Sterling Germany
KP Sterling
KP 925
KP 935
KP Sterling West Germany
KP 585 (14K) West Germany
KP 9ct for export to England
By what I have seen of the gold pieces I believe these were made while the company was winding down in the 1960s-1970s. Nothing is as grand or as extraordinary as their hey day up until the late 30s and the start of World War II.

I have been collecting this exquisite jewelry for about ten years now, unfortunately compared to the size of some of my other collections this one is much smaller as it is usually hard to find. Each acquisition of a piece of KP has been a joy to acquire. In my collector's eye, they are the Cartier of German costume jewelers. This is just a small portion to give you an idea of the quality of jewelry made by this amazing company. Sometimes the KP punch is so small that you might not even know you have a piece. I have had pieces for a couple of years before I found the mark. Sometimes I will buy a piece of it missing stones knowing I might never be able to repair it just to have it in my collection. Each piece is handcrafted from sterling silver, using the finest paste and imitation glass stones mimicking platinum,diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds. Sometimes they will use semi-precious stone colors such as amethyst and onyx. The pieces are constructed exactly as a piece of fine jewelry would be, and I am sure the same jewelers working on real jewelry also made these exquisite imitations. My saddest loss was not being able to buy a Cartier copy of an Art Deco Egyptian Revival scarab brooch they made but I will never forget that piece. You never forget the ones that get away...and sadly several have.

For years it remained one of those jewelry mystery marks that remained unsolved to us American collectors. I had noticed the company name listed in the Theodor Fahrner Jewelry Book not as KP, but as Knoll & Preziger (misspelled) and that piqued my interest. I tried researching the name every way possible and all I would get on occasion would be watch auctions on eBay. One day as I was researching I could not believe what I found. An eBay auction from a seller in Uruguay of all places who was selling a 1953 Atlanta Post catalogue containing German jewelry and accessory companies. The seller listed the names of the companies in the auction and photos of many pages. There it was. A photo of jewelry with the KP Trademark and the company name. In all my years of research this was probably one of my happiest and proudest moments. To be able to connect and confirm all of the information together.

This 1953 catalogue page confirms without a doubt the attribution of jewelry marked KP Sterling Germany (or KP 925 or 935) to Knoll & Pregizer of Pforzheim, Germany.

What is fascinating is in their long history they made Victorian/Art Nouveau, the garland style jewelry popular in English Edwardian and French Belle Epoque and the MOST extraordinary (and my favorite) breathtaking Art Deco Jewelry. Because of the 1953 catalogue page you can see the change in their style of jewelry after WWII. Amazingly, I have discovered several patents dated from 1908 thru 1975 registered in Germany, France and the UK. Many of their watches were made in 14K gold.  Recently I have discovered they also made jewelry in 14K and 9ct gold for export to England.

Pforzheim, Germany had hundreds of jewelry manufacturers on par with Providence, RI here in the US. I have many pieces of jewelry just marked Sterling Germany, but **UNLESS THE PIECE IS MARKED KP, IT WAS NOT MADE BY KNOLL & PREGIZER**. This is important to note as it would be irresponsible and unethical to attribute jewelry to a company without their known trademark.


Per his great-great grandson Thomas Wolfgang Maguire on 8-12-09 the family tree is: Theodor Eberhard Friedrich Knoll ( 1851-1928) (Great-Great-Grandfather) ---- Theodor Knoll(Great-Grandfather) (1881-1961)----- Margarete Nestlen nee Knoll (1914-1984) ---- Margrit W. Maguire nee Nestlen (1943) --- Thomas Wolfgang Maguire (1981) His mother Margrit is the granddaughter of Theodor Knoll.


VERY EXCITING NEWS PER GREAT-GRANDSON THOMAS WOLFGANG MAGUIRE ON 9-10-09:
"The History of Knoll & Pregizer according to the Archives in Pforzheim and translated from German."

"The Knoll Family originates from Schwäbisch Gmünd, there they had a small shop inside their home to make Jewelry for the Areas Jewelry Stores.

After Theodor Eberhard  Friedrich Knoll learned to be Goldsmith  in the Home Business of His Father and learned at a Technical School did he go to The Military. After he left the Military in 1877 did he take up a position as a Apprentice in a Fine Pforzheim Business, after two years he made himself independent and founded a small business in Pforzheim. In 1882 did he take into the company The Merchant and Traveling Imitation Jeweler Friedrich Pregizer. The Company now was run under the Name of Knoll & Pregizer.

The offer was extended to the production of Imitation products using Fine Pour Technique. In the future the company was able to begin thanks to a little competitive pressure to increase their sales steady and even train their own apprentices. There was establishing or further branches and others in Nagold. In 1907 Pregizer resigned from the business.

After the two eldest sons, Carl and Theodor of merchants had completed training in Pforzheim stores, They picked up their father as an employee and left them after 1914, the sole managing director. From the effects of World War I. The production activity (could be maintained only in very restriction. The Nagold branches had to be closed.) Recovering the company after the war, again due to high demand, was relatively quickly.

Carl Knoll, the eldest son and later on the city council had received since 1906 with the departure of Frederick Pregizer transferred the commercial management of the business. He married about 1908 Margarete nee Nestlen with which he had three children, Ilse (born 10.12.1908), Marianne and Walter (both born on 27.5.1911) had. The latter subsequently took over the lead. Erich Keller, son of Ilse Knoll first marriage, was transferred in 1957 by the participation in the business.

Both Life Stories which are steepened the above information is taken to give a great insight into the families and Company history, especially from the Pforzheim Foundation 1879 to 1958. In addition, the city archives has in its files Commercial Papers (Knoll & Pregizer, jewelry and watches factory, manufacture of watches and jewelry, Walter Knoll; Friedenstr 62; Goethe Strasse 16."


All of the pieces are from my collection except where noted. Some photographs are from the sellers I bought the pieces from.

Many thanks to my dear friend and colleague Dr. Kristin Rheinwald in Germany who so patiently helped me translate and navigate these German archives. She has been invaluable to me and a wonderful friend.

I would also like to thank the very gracious keeper of the Knoll Family History, Thomas Wolfgang Maguire, great-great grandson and great-grandson of both TEF Knoll & T. Knoll for being so generous sharing his time and family history and wonderful photographs. He contacted me after reading my article at www.illusionjewels.com.
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©ROBIN DEUTSCH 2009. No information or images may be used without prior consent.

I am a member of:
The American Society of Jewelry Historians (ASJH)
Association for the Study of Jewelry and Related Arts (ASJRA)
Vintage Fashion and Costume Jewelry Group (VFCJ)
Jewelcollect
Jewelry Ring
Private Collector and Jewelry Researcher
Date(s): June 16, 2009. Album by Robin Deutsch. Photos by Robin Deutsch. 1 - 76 of 76 Total. 4595 Visits.
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KP Advertisement 1953
From the 1953 Atlanta Post Catalogue that was filled with German companies selling jewelry, handbags, eyeglasses, etc.

This FINALLY connects and confirms the KP mark as Knoll & Pregizer. Pforzheim, Germany. The KP trademark with their intersecting letters is consistent with all their markings.

The bottom reads Knoll & Pregizer-Pforzheim.
Fabrik feiner Juwelen-Imitationen
(Fine Jewelry Imitations)


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KP Advertisement 1953
Another page of gorgeous imitation jewelry by KP from the 1953 Atlanta Post Catalogue.

You can see how different the style of jewelry is in these 1950s pieces compared to most of the deco pieces that I collect.


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KP Advertisement 1953
The 1953 Atlanta Post catalogue also yielded this wonderful page of Knoll & Pregizer watches. I believe the ones that look like diamonds are sterling and paste. The others are probably 14K.

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KP Germany Deco Front
Probably my most extraordinary piece of KP bought from one of my dearest friends and incredible collector Cathy Gordon. Cathy's site is www.imageevent.com/bluboi

It's quite long and breaks apart into two bracelets of which I have not figured out how to do and probably never will. Look how exquisite the pendant is, and the entire necklace chain and top part of the pendant is made out of baguettes.

This is the best piece of KP I have and will treasure not just for it's beauty, but for the fact that it came from such a wonderful friend. c.1930


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Close-up of the KP Pendant
Incredible workmanship.

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KP Germany Deco Back
Back view. When you look at these pieces there is no difference in their construction compared to real jewelry. Probably the jewelers that worked on these pieces also worked on fine jewelry in their careers.

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KP Germany Deco Marks
Close up of the workmanship and hallmarks. These hallmarks cover export to just about any country in Europe or the US and Canada.

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KP Germany Deco Close
This is a closeup of the most unusual of the marks on the necklace. It actually matches the mark on my KP bracelet that is in #9. It is the initials EG on either side of the Jewish star. Someone once floated the idea that the jeweler, because he was Jewish and working in Germany during the 1930s, had to include that in his stamp, the same way he probably would have had to wear a Jewish star around the sleeve on his arm. The necklace and bracelet and the little penguin pin are the only pieces I own with this makers mark with the Jewish star.I have seen another two over the years on the internet.

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Sterling Marks
935-Sterling Mark
KP-Knoll & Pregizer
Jewish Star with EG on either side-Probably the jeweler who worked on the piece.
There's also another indecipherable mark that could have been for export to another European country.

You can see close up even after so many years how wonderful the millegrain mounting is with  brilliant, masterfully bead set stones just like real diamonds would be. All of this was hand done.


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KP Sterling Deco Paste Bracelet
c. 1930. This had baguettes in very bad condition so I removed them all with the plan to have the bracelet restored one of these days.

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KP Deco braceletc. c.1915-1925
Edwardian/Deco Bracelet
"The Cathy Gordon Collection"
www.imageevent.com/bluboi


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KP Sterling Deco Faux Jade Bracelet
c. 1925 One of the finest pieces in my collection. So exquisite, looks like platinum, jade and diamonds.

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KP Deco Faux Jade Bracelet Clasp
I think they covered all of the import/export bases with these 6 marks:

Germany
Sterling
935
M
KP
3


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KP Germany Faux Jade Dress Clip
This matches my bracelet and is actually quite small.I was able to find another one of these so I have a pair, there is a slight difference in color between the greens.

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KP Germany Clip Back
Always as pretty as the front.
Marked:
Sterling
Germany
KP


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1930s Sterling Emerald Paste Bracelet
This is typical Hollywood Glamour 1930s. The unfoiled round green pastes are all prong set, the round pastes are bead set and the baguettes are channel set.  Marked KP Sterling Germany. This is the sellers pic, one day I will have to reshoot it. The same one with ruby colored stones was sold at Doyle's Auction House about 2000-2001 and can also be seen in Harrice Simons Miller Third Edition of her Price Guide to Costume Jewelry Page 95.

I've since had all the baguettes replaced and the foil removed from the clear stones as well as replacing some of the round pastes that were missing.  It's an astoundingly beautiful piece.


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1930s KP Sterling emerald Paste Bracelet

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1920s Sterling Germany Deco Paste Clip
This beautiful use of color and style of this clip has an Indian influence so prevalent in art deco jewelry. A mixture of calibré-cut,baguette,round and even a triangular stone. Bullet nose emerald colored cabochons on either side of the top. Wonderful workmanship and extremely high quality.

Similar clip also by KP in European Designer Jewelry by Ginger Moro in her German section page 127.


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c.1920s Deco Dress Clip Back
Marked Sterling Germany and Makers Marks KP. The workmanship even from the back is extraordinary. Notice how the clear calibre and baguette stones are set in open back settings, even though they are foiled. You only see silver foiled pastes on older jewelry.

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Birks KP Germany Sterling Paste Deco Tree
Probably 1920s. Perfect little pastes in millegrain settings and channel set squares on the top of the pot. It's just exquisite and PERFECT!!!

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Birks Sterling Paste Tree Back
Look how beautiful the back is made. Old safety clasp. This must have been a special order for Birks.(The Tiffany of Canada)

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Birks Marks
Birks in Script for Birks Dingwall
Sterling Silver
KP Hallmark

This was the first time I ever saw Birks in script. I was fortunate while researching to find the Birks-Dingwall mark that confirmed the early script signature.


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Birks Dingwall mark
This is the old Birks Dingwall mark that I found in one of their old ads. It matches the Birks in script on the back of my little tree brooch.

D. R. Dingwall was taken over by Henry Birks & Sons in about 1919 and renamed Birks-Dingwall. That is the earliest this mark and brooch could be.


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KP German Sterling Plume Pin
Tiny little treasure with the "Prince of Wales" Feathers motif.

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KP Germany Plume pin Back
Marked 935 KP.

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Fabulous KP Germany Sterling Deco Brooch
This is unbelievable. Marked Sterling Germany. 935 KP. The black stones are definitely onyx. There are green and purple glass high dome cabs as well as calibré cut purple and onyx stones. It's superb and very hard to show the details.

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Exquisite KP Germany Sterling Bow
c. 1920s
This piece is magnificently made and looks exactly like sapphires and diamonds. Like any manufacturer, some pieces are better than others. But this one defies detection as faux.


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Exquisite KP Germany Sterling Bow
Back view.

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Exquisite KP Germany Sterling Bow
Close up of Marks

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KP Germany Double Clip Brooch
c.1930. Sterling silver. This is two dress clips attached to a frame and worn as a brooch. It came with stones in horrible condition. All of them were so yellow and dull. I soaked it in a bath of vinegar and salt removing all the foil. You would never know this was not platinum and diamonds. I love the mixture of the geometric cuts of stones. Double clip brooches were made by every jeweler in the 1930s and even occasionally up to the 1950s whether in real or costume.

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KP Double Clip Brooch Back
Before the removal of the foil.

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KP Double Clip Brooch Taken Apart

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KP Double Clip Brooch Back of Clips
Marked Sterling Germany KP and 5 on each clip.

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KP 935 Double Clip Brooch
Marked KP 935 c. 1930s. Breaks apart into two dress clips. Almost the same mechanism as the previous piece.

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KP 935 Double Clip Brooch

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KP double Clip Brooch Frame Back

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KP double clip Brooch Back of Clips
Each clip is marked 935 KP

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KP Germany Day/Night Brooch
Channel set clear and sapphire calibré cut pastes. Probably depicting night and day with the pearl as the moon in the night sky.
The brooches of the early art deco era are small in scale. C-clasp.
Marked 935 KP c.1915-1920


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KP Germany Sterling Tiger
Probably copied after a Cartier piece.

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KP Germany Sterling Tiger
Look at the dimension. It's so beautifully sculpted you can actually see the movement of the cat.
The KP mark is on his right paw.


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KP 935 Sterling Penguins
This tiny pin is of two charming penguins. Beautiful millegrain metal work. Bezel set paste bodies. One of the large stones is a replacement. Missing one tiny red eye. Black Enamel. Rhodium Plating. Marked 935 KP. Another rare piece with the jewelers mark of EG on either side of a Star of David. I had it for a few years before I noticed it.

This now resides (as it should) in the collection of Margrit Maguire and her son Thomas Wolfgang Maguire. The granddaughter and great-grandson of Theodor Knoll.


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KP Germany Brooch
Marked Sterling Germany KP
Much brighter and not as yellow than the scan shows.


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KP Germany Brooch Back
Marked Sterling Germany KP
Old clasp. All the baguettes are backed with silver foil in open back settings.


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KP-animals c1920s
A charming array of sterling and paste animals. A peacock and a lizard.

These belong to my dear friend Evelyn Yallen. Visit her website at
www.intotemptation.com


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KP-blue-necklace c1953
This necklace is extraordinary and I would have thought it was from the 1930s but if you look at the necklace chain and the bows they match the jewelry ad in #1 from the 1953. Ads are a priceless tool for research. From The Evelyn Yallen Collection. Hmmm...now how can I get this??
www.intotemptation.com


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KP Peacock
From Evelyn Yallen. Now part of The Robin Deutsch Collection. Look how brilliant these pastes still are after all these years. I love the tiny ruby cabochon eyes and little feet.

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KP Peacock2

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KP Peacock3
Good view of the markings.
Germany
Sterling
KP


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KP-earrings
I never cease to be amazed at how beautiful their jewelry is. Another wonderful piece from The Evelyn Yallen Collection.
www.intotemptation.com

Now happily part of The Robin Deutsch Collection.


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KP Deco Sterling 'Emerald' Drop Earrings
Exquisite Art Deco faux "Emerald and Diamond" Paste Pendant earrings.
Purchased from my dear friend Evelyn Yallen. www.intotemptation.com


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KP Earrings Back
On the screwback it is marked Germany Sterling 935 KP

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KP Sterling Germany Bracelet
Beautiful unfoiled faux sapphire prong set glass stones and bead and bezel set clear pastes in sterling  mimicking sapphires and diamonds in a platinum setting. So glamorous and incredibly real looking.

Purchased from Robin Allison at Red Robin Antiques.


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KP Sterling Germany Bracelet
Back view. Finished as beautifully as the front. All stones, even the foiled ones are in open back settings just as a fine jewelry bracelet would be made.

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KP Sterling Germany Bracelet
A gorgeous example done in sterling silver, bezel set clear pastes and unfoiled prong set faux sapphire stones mimicking a fine platinum, diamond and sapphire bracelet.

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KP Sterling Germany Bracelet
Detail of the bezel and bead set clear pastes and prong set faux sapphire stones. the clear sections are in the form of leaves.

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Detail of Bracelet hallmarks
I think it's the first time I noticed the KP without a shield.

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KP Germany Pin c.19-15-1920
Edwardian or early deco. Small in size but beautiful in its execution and construction. The finest large and small white pastes surround a gorgeous faux emerald cut sapphire giving it a lacy effect.

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KP Germany Edwardian Pin
Marked 935 KP. I'm toying with the idea of having this made into a ring set north to south. Today we have the miracle of lasers that would not destroy the piece. I would probably do a simple gold shank.

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Stunning KP 925 Sterling Double Clip Brooch
c. 1930s. Mimicking platinum, diamonds and rubies, this can be broken apart into two dress clips or worn together as a single brooch as shown.

Marked 925 KP Sterling on the back of each clip back also numbers 5 and 6 that correspond with the placement on the frame.

From "The Meg Andrews Collection"


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KP sterling paste pendant c.1909
Edwardian/Belle Epoque. This is a beautiful example of an early all white lavaliere made of sterling and pastes mimicking a pierced platinum setting with diamonds set in millegrain mountings.  It's a wonderful, beautiful piece of early 20th century jewelry. Circa 1909 as the pear shaped drop is used in the 1909 pictures in #50 and #51.

Formerly part of "The Cathy Gordon Collection" (now part of the Robin Deutsch Collection)
www.imageevent.com/bluboi


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KPinfo
Goldsiegel-Uhren (Gold Seal Watches) Kape & Lotos are for watches. KP is for the jewelry but also marked on the back of the watches. I recently purchased a Lotos watch and this exact KP marking within the blume is on the back.

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A Magnificent KP 925 Sterling Paste Diadem
c. 1900. Found in records of an online European auction several years ago. This is a magnificent example of the Edwardian/Belle Epoque jewelry they were making at the time. Made from  sterling 925 vermeil the millegrain edges, perfect old cut pastes, knife edge settings. Just gorgeous. I can't imagine any woman wearing that and not thinking she was wearing anything less than a real diamond diadem.

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Knoll Pregizer 1909
Research from my dear friend and JC member Dr. Kristin Rheinwald of Germany.

These are magnificent copies done in sterling and paste of jewelry done in the garland style. Very typical of English Edwardian or French Belle Epoque.


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Knoll Pregizer Tiara 1909
Research from my dear friend and JC member Dr. Kristin Rheinwald of Germany.

Exquisite tiara done in sterling and paste. Edwardian/Belle Epoque.


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Theodor Knoll 1882-1961
I am thrilled to be in contact with the great-great grandson of Theodor Eberhard Friedrich Knoll, founder of Knoll & Pregizer, a lovely young man named Thomas Wolfgang Maguire. He saw my article at Illusion Jewels and contacted me through Dotty.

This is a picture of founder T.E.F. Knoll's son and Thomas's great-grandfather (and his mother's grandfather) Theodor Knoll who had Knoll & Pregizer as well as "Th.Knoll Co.". Thomas is trying to find out more info about this.

This picture is property of Thomas Wolfgang Maguire and may not be used without his consent.


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Thomas Wolfgang Maguire and Theodor Knoll
Many thanks again to Thomas Wolfgang Maguire for these priceless pieces of history. 8-12-09

This picture is property of Thomas Wolfgang Maguire and may not be used without his consent


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The Knoll Brothers
From Thomas Wolfgang Maguire 8-12-09

This picture is property of Thomas Wolfgang Maguire and may not be used without his consent


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Margarete Theodor & Frieda 1935
Another wonderful family photo from Thomas Wolfgang Maguire 8-12-09

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Journal der Goldschmiedekujnst 1907
Page in the issue describing Friedrich Pregizer leaving the firm on July 1, 1907.

Translation and many thanks again to Thomas Wolfgang Maguire.

I also tranlated this through Google:
Knoll & Pregizer with a branch in Nagold: With the withdrawal of the industrialist Friedrich Pregizer started on 1st July 1907 the company dissolved. The business went on with the company at the recent shareholder Theodor Eberhard Knoll. Carl Knoll is the merchant here, given power of attorney.


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KP Information Post WWII
Knoll Und Pregizer as well as Kollmar & Jourdan. Per Kristin, this is archive information showing the registration dates of these companies mostly post-war WWII. But because of the 1887 registration date in the Fahrner book and this archive, and a 1975 patent I found, it confirms KP was in business from 1887-1975.

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Knoll & Pregizer Marks

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KP 14K Violet Diamond Basket Brooch
Carved Jade, Amethyst Flower Basket Pin with Diamond, Pearl Accents. Trombone Clasp.
Hallmarked 585,(14k), West Germany
and Knoll & Pregizer (KP) stamp.
Measures 2-1/4 inches tall and 2-inches wide.
Excellent condition, no cracks, no repairs.

From the Collection of Christia Schutt. www.grandmasjewelrybox.com

This piece came to me through my friend Christia and shows how imparting knowledge to each other in the world of research is so important.

Knoll & Pregizer is known as a costume jewelry company. Their ads even say "Imitation Jewels". But in a Post WWII German record I found (#70) listing KP as "Goldschmuck"-Fine Jewelers (meaning they worked in at least the minimum of 8K gold as well as making imitation jewelry in sterling.) Until this piece was discovered, the only gold jewelry they were known for was their watches. They may have decided to go into the fine jewelry business at the end of their long career of making imitations.  

Since...


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KP 14K Violet Diamond Basket Brooch
The back of the brooch. Fascinating to find that German companies used the trombone safety clasp which is almost always considered a characteristic of French jewelry.
From the Collection of Christia Schutt. www.grandmasjewelrybox.com


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KP 14K Violet Diamond Basket Brooch
Marked 585 (European mark for 14K) and KP in a blume as shown in #71
From the Collection of Christia Schutt. www.grandmasjewelrybox.com


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KP 14K Violet Diamond Basket Brooch
Marked West Germany. Because of the motif and workmanship I feel this piece was made in the 1960s. This is only a guess. It also could have been made into the 1970s until the company closed in 1975.
From the Collection of Christia Schutt. www.grandmasjewelrybox.com


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76
Mark on the Back of my Lotos Watch

   
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I have a white metal broach in the shape of a leaf.  The only mark is the number 935, there are no other marks.  Could this be made by KP.

Thank you

C. Moloney
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Chris Moloney, Thu, 19 Nov 2009 7:56PM
Robin, Thanks so much for your extensive research. You've saved me from who knows how many hours, days, or years of fishing for info on these marks. I acquired a duette brooch just last Thursday and here it is Sunday and I already have my answer! I am so grateful. I'd love to chat with you about it.
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Meg Andrews, Sun, 13 Sep 2009 4:54PM