1
Fortuny Black Delphos Dress
Italian, 1920s-1930s
Sleeveless, with tan Venetian glass beads on shoulders and down sides, silk stenciled belt, selvage and belt labeled: Fortuny/Made In Italy/Depose.
Mariano Fortuny is remembered as a Renaissance man, for his versatile mosaic of talents, but particularly for his mastery in his textiles and garments. His first textile/garment, called the Knossos scarf, was made in 1906. Foolowing in 1907 was the Delphos gown, a columnar dress of finely pleated thin silk satin hand-dyed in every imaginable shade.
The early Delphos gowns had short bat-wing sleeves, laced along their tops. Because of the elastic quality of the pleating, Fortuny weighted his dresses by sewing cords strung with hand-blown Venetian glass beads down the sides. To keep their pleats, the dresses were twisted like skeins of yarn and packed in a small cream-colored box.
The tiny pleats remain a subject of discussion even though ...
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Eisenberg plaid dress.
1930s
Wonderful Eisenberg Original long dress in plaid cotton with shawl collar and floral bouquet.
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Back of Eisenberg dress.
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Eisenberg Original blue wool dress with black Bakelite buttons.
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Back showing how buttons are on pockets.
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Schiaparelli Couture Navy Taffeta Two-Piece Evening Dress
French, circa 1950
Comprising skirt with asymmetrical side drape hem, strapless bodice with pleated stand away bustline and attached asymmetrical winged peplum overskirt, size 4, labeled: Schiaparelli/21place vendome/Paris.
Excellent condition.
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7
Norell Silk Pant Ensemble and Wool Jacket
American, 1960s
The first of navy and dove gray diamond patterned silk, comprising palazzo pants, long sleeved buttoned mandarin collar shirt tunic with tie belt and sleeveless floor length coat, size 6, tape label: Deborah 400; the second of box form with single button, ecru wool twill, with cuffs and three patch pockets trimmed in parallel rows of navy, size 6, labeled: Norman Norell/New York.
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8
Travilla Fan Pleated Gown
American, 1970s
The ivory silk fan pleated columnar gown gathered at cleavage, halter neck, size 6-8, labeled: Travilla.
Travilla was a Hollywood costume designer best known for designing Marilyn Monroe's outfits, including her most famous dress from the 1955 movie The Seven Year Itch, of which this dress is a longer version.
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9
Givenchy Black Velvet Evening Gown
French, 1980s
The narrow skirt with V-neck empire bodice, the long fitted sleeves appliqued with gold satin panels ruched at the shoulders, embroidered with black sequins and faceted beads and edged with black braid, size 4-6, labeled: Givenchy/Made in France.
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Moschino Black Sequined Motorcycle Style Jacket
Italian, 1980s
Embroidered overall with vertically overlapping sequins, trimmed with zipper pockets and side closure, size 6, labeled: Moschino Couture.
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Irene suit and jacket.
American, late 1940s
The first of black wool, the fitted hip length jacket with high molded neckline, asymmetrical front notched closure of three rectangular flaps buttoning on alternate sides, matching slender unlined knee length skirt, size 6, labeled: Irene, the second a jacket of black faille crepe with side panel seaming, asymmetrical collar, shawl on left side overlapping revere accented with bound curved slash, revere on right side, curved flap over both hips, curved turn back cuffs, size 8, labeled: Irene.
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13
Pauline Trigere black velvet late day dress.
American, 1947
Sleeveless princess seam dress with low square neckline flaring dramatically at mid thigh, flounce hem lined with silk faille, size 8, labeled: Trigere/MU 1947.
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Trigere label
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15
Halston black and white polka dot dress.
American, 1970s
Of creme chenille dotted black cotton voile, sleeveless bodice with graduated ruffle all around neckline, flared skirt with curved surplice closing with continuous graduated ruffle short at front long at back with attached self sash bow tied, size 6, labeled: Halston.
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16
Dolce and Gabbana leather motor racing jacket.
Italian, 1990s
Waisted with band neck, white leather yoke and sleeve sides, red body with yellow, white and black applique motor racing style motifs, zipper closure, leopard print silk lining, size 4/6, labeled: Dolce & Gabbana.
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Calvin Klein red evening gown.
American, 1990s
Of red and blue changeante taffeta, asymmetrical strapless bodice made over a foundation, only center back and left side seam, at front diagonal darts from left to center back waist, center back forming bias inverted pleats and handkerchief point hemline train, size 6, labeled: Calvin Klein Collection.
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French frou-frou dress.
Contemporary
Polished cotton overdress, asymetric skirt and pleated bodice, with flowers from the fabric scattered over the main dress (each with a faux pearl or bead center). Underdress of hot pink netting.
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20
Theirry Mugler black halter dress.
1980s or 1990s.
Black metallic mesh fabric over black liner with jade green lucite collar necklace.
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Side view of Mugler dress.
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Closeup of collar. Necklace can be removed and worn separately.
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23
Giorgio di Sant'Angelo Velvet and Chiffon Evening Gown
American, 1980s
The hip length bodice of stretch black velvet, with wide gathered neckline, long sleeves, strips of the black velvet continuing into flowing skirt, alternating with double layered chiffon godets, the top blue, the underlayer green, size 6-8, labeled: Giorgio di Sant Angelo.
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Bill Blass Sequined One-Shoulder Evening Gown
1970s
The sheath sewn with overlapping shiny black sequins, the hemline diagonal, following lines of bodice, sewn with bead fringe, size 4, labeled: Bill Blass.
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Hattie Carnegie
Post WWII
Stunning example of the American "New Look" trend in fashion that followed WWII. Ultra feminine, showing the definite romantic influence of the Victorian Revival in fashion of the late 1940's and early 1950's. Pure black SILk faille with a wonderful look and weight. Wasp waist, nipped in nicely, soft rounded shoulders. FULL FULL SWING of 130" to the skirt. FANTASTIC treatment on the BIG side pockets, hand embroidery and trim of black silk braid and soutache ribbon, reminiscent of the Victorian coats and dresses with their passementerie trimmings. Lots of princess lined gores and seams for a curvy silhouette, collar can be worn up or down, and has attractive pointed ends, full length sleeves with full cut shoulders and slightly turned back small cuffs. Real abalone pearly shell buttons, fully lined in black silk sateen.
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Hattie Carnegie Black Silk Coat
Detail of front pocket.
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Hattie Carnegie Black Silk Coat -- back
CONDITION: Accepted vintage clothing standards as excellent condition. Well stored in box, kept away from light, air and pests in a temperature controlled, smoke free home. CLEAN and FRESH smelling and feeling, silk fabric is soft and supple, not dryed out, no splits or snags, no holes or rips in the fabric, no stains or spots. DARK even black, underarms are perfect and clean with no damage at all, no fading, hem is excellent, no wear or damage. Really in amazingly well preserved condition. No holes, rips, moth bites, or signs of wear, no stains or spots.
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28
Label from Hattie Carnegie black silk coat.
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29
Emilio Pucci
1960s
Short velvet jacket in shades of purple, amethyst, pink and turquoise.
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Back of Jacket.
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31
Schiaparelli "eyelash" hat
Surrealist hat of black wool with curled black feathers on the edge resembling eyelashes. Label: Schiaparelli Paris. Created by Schiparelli licensee.
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Back of Schaiparelli hat.
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Side view of Schiaparelli hat. There is a small black velvet bow below the feathers.
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Another side view.
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Travilla
American 1970s or 1980s
This black evening dress by Travilla has long velvet bodice with back zip fastening. Bones in back, sides and front. Sateen corsage and layers make up the bottom half. Bodice has full lining.
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Travilla dress, side.
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Minnie Mouse fake fur coat.
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Liberty of London
c. 1942
Black ribbed wool skirt & jacket, cuffs & mandarin collar in Persian lamb, double kick pleats in skirt, B 36", W 26", H 36", skirt L 27", size 8.
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Liberty label.
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Schiaparelli
c. 1950s
Fine black wool faille jacket & skirt, 4 amber colored plastic buttons, label: "Schiaparelli New York Paris", satin damask "S" lining, B 38", W 28", H 38", skirt L 28".
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Schiaparelli label.
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45
Three skirt sets
c. 1950s
All cotton prints w/ matching solid or printed blouses & coordinating belts: 1 watermelons, 1 cantelopes & limes, and 1 pianos & keys, excellent.
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Cantelopes and limes.
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Piano keys.
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Watermelons.
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49
Irene evening coat
c. 1950s
Warp printed silk faille, green pink & purple floral print on cream, raglan 3/4 sleeve, cream silk lining, coat L 46.5".
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Irene coat back.
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Irene label.
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52
Beaded bag and platform shoe set
c. 1940s
Blue carnival glass clutch label "Walborg, Belgium" w/ original tags, 4" x 11"; matching beaded navy blue suede platform & ankle-strap shoes, size 7, excellent.
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Beaded bag and platform shoes.
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Adrian suit
c. 1940s
Fine wool gabardine in a warm purplish brown, Sh-Sh 15.5", B 38", W 26", H 39", skirt L 26.5".
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Adrian suit front close-up.
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Adrian suit back.
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Adrian label.
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58
Chanel Blue Leather Quilted Bomber Jacket
French, 1980s
Straight yoke in back and Western in front, checkerboard quilting, bound slash pockets and midriff, drop shoulder, set in sleeve, shirt cuff and tab, zipper closure with Chanel name and address, black knit neck and waistband, gilt-metal logo buttons at cuff, quilted black charmeuse lining with handstitched chain, size 6, labeled: Chanel Boutique.
Excellent condition.
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59
Fred Bare Opulent Rose Hat
English
Of black straw densely covered overall with four inch wine red millinery roses forming a dome, iridescent silk bow at front, labeled: Fred Bare Head Wear and Saks Fifth Avenue.
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Cranberry Chiffon Velvet Manteau
Possibly Schiaparelli
French, circa 1930
The controlled narrow full length cape slightly gathered front and back to an elaborate cut, padded and foliate embroidered applied yoke, each side of front an applied panel, no size, no label.
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61
Pumpkin and black rafia hat by Schiaparelli. Created by Schiparelli licensee.
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Side view of Schiaparelli hat.
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63
Schiap signature inside hat.
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Eisenberg Original
1940s
Silk velvet suit, dress and jacket from Eisenberg Original. The dress is long, sleeveless and slim-fitting with zipper in the back with a bow at the neck. The jacket with fitted waist, button front and snaps at the cuffs. The jacket is fully lined with cream colored silk satin. Buttons are not original.
Measurements; Jacket, shoulder to shoulder 17". Bust 35". Waist 26". Length 22". Sleeve length 23". Dress, bust 35". Waist 26". Hips 36". Length 32".
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65
Eisenberg black velvet dress.
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Jacket from Eisenberg suit.
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67
Close-up of bow on Eisenberg dress. Pin is not original.
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68
Callot Soeurs
1930s
Evening gown of heavy black satin. Wonderful pleated sleeves and a white inset panel leading to a bow and train in the back. Totally handsewn. Label: Callot Soeurs, Paris Made in France Nouvelle Marque Depose.
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Another view, slightly lightened.
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70
Back of the dress. There is an opening below the neck hook, then the entire back below the opening is hooks and snaps.
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71
Schiaparelli Opera Coat
late 1940s
This a coat by Schiaparelli. The fabric is heavily faded (but not fragile or split) though you can see the original color in the pleats. It has amazing patterns: suns, florals, lions. There is rose-colored cording with overwoven braided metallic cord details. There are 4 fabric covered buttons with gold-tone metal frames down the front (though two buttons are off the coat). It is lined in a purple fabric. The lining has some tiny holes; cannot be seen while worn. The fabric has spots, faded areas, stains and holes by the sleeve area. The coat has side pockets. The measurements are: Bust is 34". Waist is 26". Sleeve length is 24 1/2". Length is 59 1/2". Shoulder to shoulder is 13". It has a Schiaparelli couture label.
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Side view of the opera coat showing sleeve details. You can see some of the fabric details as well as the original color.
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Coat was sent to Madame Paulette's in NYC. This company has been in business for many years and does both couture dry-cleaning and restoration.
They took off the buttons and braid and hand-cleaned them. The purple lining was removed. Then the lining and coat were dry-cleaned separately using their special process. They came out perfectly, with all dirt and spots gone!
The sleeves had holes at the crease ends due to fabric dry rot. Nothing much could be done for the holes, but they are not very visible.
Finally, the coat was re-dyed to match the color in the folds. My pictures don't capture what a good job they did, but there is very little unevenness in the coloring.
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Another view of the front. I did some futzing around with contrast, etc. but my pictures show more color variations than are really there.
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Close-up of front. Whomever this was made for was tall and slender as the coat would not button on my mannequin.
I tracked down the Dietrich coat in a museum in Berlin. They provided me with her measurements and she was quite slender.
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Side view of coat.
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Close up of sleeve.
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Back view. The folds around the back vent are pulling up just a little.
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Shoulders and sleeves.
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Photo of Marlene Dietrich wearing the identical Schiaparelli coat, supposedly from the black & white movie Shanghai Express.
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Another photo of Dietrich wearing the Schiap coat.
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John Hutton photo
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Bettman Archive photo dated 1944.
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Label from Schiaparelli opera coat. Provenance: it was purchased from an antique dealer in NYC back in the 70's. This was one of several amazing items stored in a Louis Vuitton steamer trunk that he had. He had said that it came from an extremely
wealthy couple from NYC...who had all their daughters' clothes made way back in Paris/Europe.
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85
After Five
1980s
Goddess gown in gray taffeta. "Model" is shown wearing a Roger Jean-Pierre necklace.
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Side view showing the large fabric bow in the back.
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A cat comes to investigate the photo session.
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Close up of the top.
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Loris Azzaro
1980s
Azzaro one-shoulder black evening gown. Top is draped and pleated crepe asymmetrically and the bottom is black sequins. A large sequin bow is on the shoulder. Label: Loris Azzaro Paris Made in France.
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Close-up of top of gown.
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Side view.
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92
Roberto Cavalli
1970s
Italian leather jeacket with handpainted designs Main part of the jacket is black with blue sleeves and deep magenta piping. Signed Roberto Cavalli Firenze Made in Italy.
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Back of jacket showing the design.
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Closeup of the design. Photo is lighter than reality.
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Alfred Shaheen
1950s
Known for his superb prints, a Hawaiian gown in red cotton with white flowers. Train has a white riboon and a hand-hold for carrying. Signed Alfred Shaheen Honolulu.
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Another view of the Shaheen.
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97
Front of dress. Neckline drapes.
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98
Valentino silk chiffon evening gown, c.1980-1990
The elegant evening designs of Garavani Valentino have been perennial favorites with women who appreciate his tastefully body-conscious silhouettes. Julia Roberts accepted her 2001 Oscar for her role in Erin Brockovich in a vintage Valentino black gown with white piping. Many of Roberts' fans discovered what savvy collectors had long known: high quality vintage fashion is never out of style.
Valentino has been in business since 1960 and is still going strong. His gowns are known for their elegance and opulence, combined with intricate detailing. His new creations remain popular with European royalty, American socialites, and celebrities. Now, his vintage dresses are widely collected.
This exquisite evening dress is fashioned from layers of polka dot silk chiffon over taffeta. I love the play of texture from the torso ruching and cascading ruffles. No other decoration is needed!
The inner construction il...
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French sequined lace evening dress, c.1930-1940
The fine black lace of the dress is embroidered all over with tiny polychrome sequins in shades of red, green, yellow, ivory, and bronze.
The shoulder straps and bodice trim are fashioned from black velvet. The dress is totally lined with black taffeta and closes in back with hooks and snaps.
The condition is excellent and wearable.
It measures: 36" bust, 28" waist, 40" hip, 16" from the shoulder to the waist, and 58" from the shoulder to the hem.
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104
Olympe French Brocade New Orleans Gown
1860s
DONATED TO FIDM (Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, Los Angeles, CA)
2 piece black silk faile, colorfully brocaded with garden flowers, skirt en disposition with floral bouquets and gold swags, bodice with long sleeves, trimmed with multicolored and gold metallic fringe, domed enamel and glass buttons.
Label on white petersham "Olympe 154 Canal Street New Orleans"
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Olympe French Brocade New Orleans Gown
1860s
Back of gown.
Measurements: B 37" W 22.5" from skirt length 42", back length 55", hem circumference 196"
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Fringe on bodice top.
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Embroidery on skirt.
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108
Couture label.
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109
Schiaparelli Couture Jacket
1948-1952
Coral silk faille decorated with colorful ombre'd velvet appliques bordered with gold tinsel embroidery, irridescent sequins, crystal beads, soap bubble glass and beaded baubles, printed rose on cream.
Label: Schiaparelli 21 Place Vendome Paris.
Provenance: previously owned by Mrs. Chance Vought, widowed and later married to Artario Prochet. She wore the jacket to a "Come as a Song" party as "Bolero." She was best friend of Schiaparelli's daughter, GoGo Berenson and godmother of GoGo's two daughters Marissa and Berry Berenson (she hosted both their weddings).
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Schiaparelli Couture Jacket
1948-1952
Back of jacket.
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Schiaparelli Couture Jacket
1948-1952
Jacket sleeve
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Jacket detail
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113
Jacket label. This is the Schiaparelli couture label.
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114
Adrian
1940s
Black crepe evening gown studded with rhinestones, with front slit and bat-wing sleeves.
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115
Lilli Ann Navy Wool Crepe Suit
American, 1950s
The asymmetrical jacket horizontally pleated at left side of single-breasted left side closure, three diamante domed buttons, rounded collar, set in long sleeves, lined in silk crepe, slender skirt, size 8, labeled: Lilli Ann/Paris/San Francisco.
Excellent condition, waistband let out.
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116
Embroidered and beaded coat and dress
1920s
A navy georgette coat and dress heavily emboridered with seed bead accents in the Egyptian style.
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Dress has knife-pleated sleeves and ruffled skirt. The lower-most embroidered panel is see through mesh lending a risque touch to an otherwise sober outfit.
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118
Side view of the coat and dress. Coat has beautifully draped and tucked shoulders.
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Closeup of the see-through panel and embroidery.
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120
Maria Monaci Gallenga
Silk velvet hand-stencilled evening cape
C. 1923
The textile art of Maria Monaci Gallenga is often compared to that of Fortuny because they both produced hand-stenciled designs that drew inspiration from the distant past. The patterns of Gallenga are generally larger and less textured than those of Fortuny.
Gallenga's loyal followers, who frequented her shop in Florence, preferred the antique Gothic quality of her designs. She is best known for medieval and Oriental designs stenciled in shades of silver and gold.
This black silk velvet evening cape with an elaborate, pleated and rolled collar is lined with an orange silk velvet. Both side are stencilled in metallic tones -- the outer in silver and the inner in gold.
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121
View of the cape showing the lining.
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122
Close-up of the superb Asian-styled floral pattern, stencilled in tones of silver.
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Inside of the cape showing the radiant orange velvet lining, with a floral stencilled pattern in tones of gold paint.
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124
Made of silk velvet, both the outside and inside are stencilled with up to nine tones of gold and silver paint.
Her husband, a professor at the University of Rome, helped devise the method by which the metallic paint seemed to float on the fabric, not tarnishing nor flaking off.
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Gallenga occasionally sewed a printed label into her garments, or would include, as in this cape, her signature stencilled somewhere in the pattern of the fabric.
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126
Steel mesh purse.
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Deco purse with marcasite and glass insets in green and onyx.
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Whiting and Davis Dresden mesh purse.
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129
Schiaparelli Embroidered Naturalist Silk Jacket
French, 1930s
Of Bianchini fabric designed by Raoul Dufy, black and aqua velvet striped silk satin, form fitting design embellished at front with pale blue seed bead and white silk thread twining ivy leaves suspending clusters of fuschia beads, the velvet shawl collar similarly embroidered and accented with large turquoise cabochons, single breasted, long fitted sleeves with gathered caps, size 4, no label.
Buttons in bad condition, one missing, two replaced, frayed and split at armscyes, some loss of color on stripes.
See Palmer White, Elsa Schiaparelli, p.31.
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130
Philip Hulitar Daffodil Yellow Cocktail Dress
American, 1950s
Silk taffeta spaghetti strap boned bodice with dipped waistline at front rising up at back to peak, silk satin controlled pleat tulip mid calf length skirt with weighted slit at center front faux harem hem, gathered at back hem in faux poof surmounted by a satin bow, size 6, label: Philip Hulitar.
Excellent condition.
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131
Two Deco compacts, enamel on brass. The one on the left has a paper label calling it a "victory Model" compact and the powder puff is marked ClariceJane. The other compact is unmarked except for Des Pat 95,430, granted for a Vanity Case to F.R. Johnson on April 30, 1935.
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Two chrome and enamel Deco compacts. The one on the left has a broken chain, but gorgeous enamelwork and is dated to 1929. The compact on the right is marked Made In USA.
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Jeweled cats eye sunglasses. c 1950s, in pearlized pale pink plastic (?) with carved doves inset with rhinestones.
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134
Side view.
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135
Schiaparelli Evening Jacket
Winter, 1939
Shocking pink silk satin evening jecket with pale lavender, black and green vertical stripes. The front and sleeves are embroidered in silk and colored metallic thread in a trompe l'oeil morning glory design. 12 pink plastic and blue metal buttons, pink China silk lining. Label: Schiaparelli 21 Place Vendome, Paris, Hiver 1939-1940, and an inked linen tape under label "F1100."
See Schocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli by Dilys Blum pg 232 for a matching pair of high-buttoned boots and a house sketch of a matching gown.
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Front of jacket
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Side view showing embroidered sleeve
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Back of jacket
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Close-up of embroidery.
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Schiaparelli couture label.
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141
Bias Cut Summer Evening Gown
C. 1930s
White silk crepe printed with lavender and blue flower heads with matching belt and velvet bows.
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