I am a newcomer.My forte has been glass as in Galle, Daum, R.Lalique, Moser etc. Having serious difficulties in buying glass because of the increasing costs, I started looking into costume jewellery, and by luck I bought a magnificent Coppola e Toppo necklace at an auction for very little money.Nobody knew what it was! This started my curiosity about 4 months ago, I searched in the webb, and discovered a new world, and now I am trapped. I'm amazed of the incredible designs produced by Coppola e Toppo, Miriam Haskell, Schiapparelli, etc. etc. The exquisite and original designs, made by hand,and also the over the top creations which are inspite of it, so wearable. The power of imagination had no limits! - Leda Drucaroff, Thu, 5 Nov 2009 4:39AM
Nice collection!! I very into birds and I love 'Big Bird' ...any information on this piece would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Pete - Pete | google...'Winged Critter Creations', Thu, 14 Feb 2008 11:57AM
lovely , thanks so much the roger jean pierre necklace is breathtaking Maurizio - maurizio, Mon, 17 Dec 2007 10:51AM
Unbelievable! I was in ecstasy. Thank you for such a lovely website and aesthetic treasures. It was as inspiring as stepping into a museum. - Martine Janah, Thu, 8 Mar 2007 9:13PM
1 Gorgeous, huge collar of gold-tone metal inset with rhinestones of many colors. One of my absolute favorites!
2 CIS asymmetric crackle glass collar with splendid colors of hyacinth AB, citrine, topaz, clear and one glass hematite-shaded stone. Changes color depending on what you are wearing. The hook has been replaced at some point.
3 CIS heart collar with stones in olivine, amethyst, AB, and hyacinth AB.
4 French Deco parure of marcasites and black and cream-colored enamel set in silver. The center part of the bracelet is 2" x 2 1/2". Large black stones in the earrings are onyx.
5 Roger Jean-Pierre necklace and earrings of clear and smoke crystal beads set in jappaned metal and hanging from a silver metal collar. Note the paper hang-tag which is usually the only way these pieces were marked.
6 Fabulous Leo Glass bib necklace of cranberry glass and pearl strands hanging from an elaborate chain. Signed Leo Glass on a hangtag.
7 Handcrafted for me by John Catalano. This is very 3-dimensional and I could not capture its true beauty. Roses are 8" side-to side, 3" wide and 2" tall. All hand-drilled and set rhinestones with a wonderful hinging in the center so it hangs beautifully and confortably.
8 Parure of cobalt blue and bell-shaped emerald green glass beads, offset by poured glass "petals" of dark navy blue and green with gold findings manipulated into petal shapes. Inlaid petals were bought in Germany in 1971, dating the necklace to Larry Vrba. Signed Haskell. This set is the evening version of the prior, much simpler set.
9 Hagler glass flowers and pearls.
10 THE Philadelphia bracelet. Superb Deco style, with fins. Apparently, the bracelet came in five colors -- this is the red one (duh...).
11 BIG BIRD. Fabulous deco-look fantasy bird clip, more than 3 inches long. Gold wash and sterling with pave rhinestones and enameled eye. This piece is in Harrice Miller's book 2nd edition pg 161.
12 Eisenberg Puss 'N Boots fur clip. Signed Eisenberg Original.
13 Eisenberg mermaid. Signed Eisenberg and Sterling.
14 Cloisonné Enameled Link Bracelet Austria, circa 1935
Blue, green and red enameled copper, carré-cut glass paste stones imitating jade and carnelian, rhinestones, length 6 3/4 inches, Signed Made in Austria.
15 Plique-à-jour bracelet in the form of stylized butterflies. Sterling, chrysoprase, onyx, enamel, marcasites. Butterfly wings are plique enamel in green, white and purple. This is a good example of plique-à-jour enamel shading within a cell.
Plique-à-jour is a type of enameling in which cells are filled with wet-packed enamel and then fired on mica or some other substance to which the enamel won't adhere. It differs from cloisonné enamel in that it doesn't have a metal backing, thus the fired enamel lets light shine through and creates a stained-glass effect.
16 Art Nouveau Plique a Jour pin Levinger & Bissinger Circa 1900
900 silver plique a jour and pink stone pin signed HL Depose 900.
Heinrich Levinger, while not as well-known as Fahrner, was another Pforzheim, Germany firm of jewelers founded during the 19th century by Heinrich Levinger who dies in 1899). In 1903, the firm was renamed Levinger und Bissinger, but reverted to the name of Heinrich Levinger in 1909. They produced Jugendstil designs and are noted for stylized organic forms in plique a jour enamel and silver. They alos executed designs by the Viennese designer Otto Prutscher (1880-1949).
17 Buckle held up to the light -- the leaves are plique as well as the portions connecting the center area to the outside of the buckle.
18 Blue glass parure from the late 1930s, consisting of necklace, wrap bracelet, pin and earrings. Blue pate de verre beads and leaves set off by dimensional, cobalt blue floral beads and lighter blue glass petals. The necklace has a lovely silver metal floral slide clasp. Unsigned Haskell.
19 Fabulous parure by Frank Hess. Motifs are seed beads in pale green, white and pale pink, offset by orange art glass stones and flowers of gold metal and deep aqua poured glass petals. Bracelet is quite simple, with a single clasp motif and then multiple strands of chains in 3 styles. Earrings are long chandelier style. Circa early-mid 1950s. Signed Haskell.
20 THE most important group (necklace, bracelet, pin and two pair of earrings) in my collection. The necklace dates to 1960 and is a prototype created by Robert Clark for Haskell owner Morris Kinzler while Frank Hess was on vacation. The necklace was never put into production and was stored within Kinzler's private archives. I do not know when the bracelet, pin and button earrings were made, though the dangly bead earrings were made for me by Millie Petronzio. This is the same necklace in Cera on pg 127, attributed to Hess. If you have the Cera book, look at the longest bead festoon on the bottom right--you will notice that it is missing its filigree cap. When I purchased this necklace, I had Millie add the cap to it. The metal rings are totally covered with roses montees and the festoon dangles are red pate de verre beads. This is a wonderful example of Robert Clark's unique style and the start of a new era with the departure of des...
21 Fahrner Deco necklace and bracelet, circa 1920s
Superb Fahrner set with rectangular faceted stones of chalcedony and amazonite, marcasites, all set in sterling. Stamped Germany Sterling and TF (linked) 935.
22 Trifari Deco style bracelet in clear and ruby-toned rhinestones. Marked KTF and 4 8. Center motif is arced to fit your wrist and measures 1 1/2" wide. Articulated band is 1 1/4" wide. All rhinestones are bright and clear (despite my mediocre pictures...).
23 Side view of Trifari bracelet.
24 Stunning portrait bracelet of a young woman painted on ivory. 18K engraved gold, hinged cuff. Portrait is 1 3/4" x 1 1/2". Inscribed M.T. to J.B. 16th Sept 1851. Back has woven silk inset where a hair lock could go.
25 Another view of bracelet. Colors are fresh and pristine.
26 The most superb Victorian micro-mosaic I have ever seen of a water spaniel flushing a duck from the reeds. Set in a 18K gold frame, the pin is 2 1/2" by 2" (the black glass and mosaic section is 2" x 1 3/4". The tiles are curved in order to create the fluid lines in the dog's fur and the reeds. Perfect condition and it came in its original box.
27 Serpent with turquoise stones Victorian c. 1845
Sir Hiss! Isn't he splendid?? A bangle bracelet in the form of a serpent (undying love to the Victorians).
Serpent bangle is entwined with its tail wrapping underneath and around in front of the head. It has hundreds of pave set natural turquoise cabochons set in silver and backed with a gold wash. There are a couple of replacement stones.
Finely detailed metalwork holds rose cut diamonds that decorate the serpent's head and surround the tear drop shaped turquoise stone in the center. Ruby cabochon stones are used for the eyes and are collet set in yellow gold.
There are no hallmarks. Serpent came in a Russian box.
28 Mazer deco basketweave bracelet, fur clip and earrings in red, blue and clear. Gold wash over sterling. Marked Mazer Sterling.
29 Lyda Coppola started her company in 1946, but the true commercial birth was her 1948 designs for Fath, Piguet and Schiaparelli. She added her surname, Toppo, after her marriage and was joined by her brother Bruno Coppola whose contacts in the US enabled her to develop a special collection for the American market. She successfully worked for Emilio Pucci, Ken Scott and Valentino in the 1960s creating wonderful pieces to match the fashions of the time. Lyda Coppola retired in 1972 and the company discontinued the trademark in 1986. Shown is a magnificent Coppola e Toppo necklace with 3 circular pendants. Made for Valentino in 1970, it is constructed of gilt-stamped metal, sapphire-blue faceted Swarovski crystals, rhinestones and gilt metal beads. According to Ginger Moro, the necklaces came in a single, double and triple circle version. See Jewels of Fantasy, page 275 for a hot pink version.
30 Ram's head cuff bracelet of silver-tone metal with a group of glass and metal charms hanging from a ring. Signed Napier. Interior metal has slight wear.