1
In 1938, Jean Schlumberger created the "circus" collection for Elsa Schiaparelli. This unsigned clown fur clip has been attributed to that collection. See Cera, Jewels of Fantasy, pg 235 for a similar 2-part clown.
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2
An unsigned fur clip attributed to Max Boinet for Schiaparelli (told to Ginger Moro by Jeanne Péral). A 5-layer clip in teal green enamel offset with shocking pink enamel, pink and navy colored fantasy birds with pearls, and ruby red & yellow glass stones. A version of this clip may be seen in Moro, European Designer Jewelry, pg 84. Clip is 5 inches long.
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3
Schiaparelli Couture Navy Taffeta Two-Piece Evening Dress
French, circa 1950
Comprising skirt with asymmetrical side drape hem, strapless bodice with pleated stand away bustline and attached asymmetrical winged peplum overskirt, size 4, labeled: Schiaparelli/21place vendome/Paris.
Excellent condition.
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4
Schiaparelli "eyelash" hat
1930s?
Surrealist hat of black wool with curled black feathers on the edge resembling eyelashes. Label: Schiaparelli Paris.
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5
Side view of Schiaparelli hat. There is a small black velvet bow below the feathers.
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6
Cranberry Chiffon Velvet Manteau
Possibly Schiaparelli
French, circa 1930
The controlled narrow full length cape slightly gathered front and back to an elaborate cut, padded and foliate embroidered applied yoke, each side of front an applied panel, no size, no label.
Excellent condition.
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7
Pumpkin and black rafia hat by Schiaparelli.
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8
Side view of Schiaparelli hat.
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9
Lot 386 – Schiaparelli suit, 1950s: Fine black wool faille jacket & skirt, 4 amber colored plastic buttons, label: "Schiaparelli New York Paris", satin damask "S" lining, B 38", W 28", H 38", skirt L 28", excellent.
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10
Schiaparelli Opera Coat
late 1940s
This a coat by Schiaparelli. The fabric is heavily faded (but not fragile or split) though you can see the original color in the pleats. It has amazing patterns: suns, florals, lions. There is rose-colored cording with overwoven braided metallic cord details. There are 4 fabric covered buttons with gold-tone metal frames down the front (though two buttons are off the coat). It is lined in a purple fabric. The lining has some tiny holes; cannot be seen while worn. The fabric has spots, faded areas, stains and holes by the sleeve area. The coat has side pockets. The measurements are: Bust is 34". Waist is 26". Sleeve length is 24 1/2". Length is 59 1/2". Shoulder to shoulder is 13". It has a Schiaparelli couture label.
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11
Coat was sent to Madame Paulette's in NYC. This company has been in business for many years and does both couture dry-cleaning and restoration.
They took off the buttons and braid and hand-cleaned them. The purple lining was removed. Then the lining and coat were dry-cleaned separately using their special process. They came out perfectly, with all dirt and spots gone!
The sleeves had holes at the crease ends due to fabric dry rot. Nothing much could be done for the holes, but they are not very visible.
Finally, the coat was re-dyed to match the color in the folds. My pictures don't capture what a good job they did, but there is very little unevenness in the coloring.
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12
Another view of the front. I did some futzing around with contrast, etc. but my pictures show more color variations than are really there.
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13
Close-up of front. Whomever this was made for was tall and slender as the coat would not button on my mannequin.
I tracked down the Dietrich coat in a museum in Berlin. They provided me with her measurements and she was quite slender.
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14
Side view of coat.
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15
Close up of sleeve.
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16
Bettman Archive photo dated 1944.
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17
Label from Schiaparelli opera coat. Provenance: it was purchased from an antique dealer in NYC back in the 70's. This was one of several amazing items stored in a Louis Vuitton steamer trunk that he had. He had said that it came from an extremely
wealthy couple from NYC...who had all their daughters' clothes made way back in Paris/Europe.
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18
Schiaparelli Couture Jacket
1948-1952
Coral silk faille decorated with colorful ombre'd velvet appliques bordered with gold tinsel embroidery, irridescent sequins, crystal beads, soap bubble glass and beaded baubles, printed rose on cream.
Label: Schiaparelli 21 Place Vendome Paris.
Provenance: previously owned by Mrs. Chance Vought, widowed and later married to Artario Prochet. She wore the jacket to a "Come as a Song" party as "Bolero." She was best friend of Schiaparelli's daughter, GoGo Berenson and godmother of GoGo's two daughters Marissa and Berry Berenson (she hosted both their weddings).
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19
Schiaparelli Couture Jacket
1948-1952
Back of jacket.
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20
Schiaparelli Couture Jacket
1948-1952
Jacket sleeve
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21
Jacket detail
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22
Jacket label. This is the Schiaparelli couture label.
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23
Authorized Schiaparelli Reproduction--Special Collection Dinner Suit
1940
Dinner suit of black crepe consiting of a dress and jacket, with embroidered seed-bead pansies decorating the jacket front and pockets.
In early 1940, Schiaparelli had signed a contract with Columbia Broadcasting company for a U.S. coast-to-coast lecture tour. With the fall of France to the Germans, Schiap left France for NY via Lisbon aboard Pan American's "flying boat," the Yankee Clipper. She arrived on July 20.
She had designed a special wardrobe to illustrate her lecture tour, "Clothes Make the Woman," and had made arrangements to have it copied by five specially selected American manufacturers. Each garment and hat would bear a label decaring it an "Authorized Schiaparelli Repproduction--Special Collection 1940."
Unfortunately, the wardrobe was on a ship which was sunk. The missing garments were made using as models the outfits Schiap herself ...
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24
Dinner suit dress.
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25
Pansy embroidery on the pocket. The wormanship is gorgeous with batting behind the beads to provide dimension.
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26
Button for the jacket. The picture has been lightened as the button is black metal with raised stars.
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27
Vogue article from October 1940 showing the long version of the dinner suit.
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28
Schiaparelli hat with shocking pink hatbox.
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