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Lock Right
Date(s): May 22, 2004. Album by Don Scott. 1 - 80 of 80 Total. 10505 Visits.
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Some 2 yrs later I'm still enjoying your pics of differential work!  Thanks.  I admire your "git 'er done" attitude, Don.  Gives me confidence I can get mine reassembled,too.  
David
 - 
David, Tue, 21 Nov 2006 2:12PM
Don,
Enjoyed all the pictures.
I am going to get a lock right for my Power Wagon (rear axle) this winter, if plans go according to schedule.
I am going to have Bob Stahl install it I think.
I like the Detroit locker spec tag. Do you know a source for these? I have been told that Detroit was the original design/owner of what is now Lock Right.
 - 
Dave Langford, Sat, 14 Oct 2006 6:15PM
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Removing one of the 3 pins that secure the cap on the differential case

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A professional would remove the bearing to do this work.  I got by leaving the bearing in place.

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You can drive the pins in and cut them off with a chissel in these slots

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TM 9-1808B specifies drilling the case cap pins out.  That is messy and risks enlarging the holes.

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Differential case cap removed and LockRight in place.  what you are looking at is a steel thrust washer sitting on the side gear (coupler), which is sitting on top of the Lock Right driver.

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Here is the Lock Right driver with the side gear (coupler) removed.  You can also see the spacer (shiny ring) sitting on top of the pinion shaft block in the center.

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Lock Right driver with broken pins and springs.

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One Lock Right drive has been removed.  You are looking down on the pinion shafts and the pinion shaft block.  The other driver remains in place.  You can see two sheared-off pins remaining in the driver.  You must remove the pinion shafts to access the remaining driver and side gear.

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New pins and springs installed in the Lock Right.  Pins in the round holes and springs in the ob-long, blind holes.

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Pins and Springs installed in the other driver held in with grease

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Bias Spring is a small spring (left) inserted in large spring (right).  As in bias-ply tires, the coils (or grain)of the springs run in opposite directions.

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I used a hammer and punch to screw the case cap back on to the original position.

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I put the case cap in the freezer before installing it.

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By poking with a screwdriver, I ensured the Lock Ridght driver will move inward compressing the springs.

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Poking through holes in the other side to again confirm that the Lock Right drivers will compress the springs and move inward away from the side gears (couplers).

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Axle shafts inserted into the side gears in an attempt to prove the ratcheting ability of the Lock Right.  The torque required was more than the threshold for my puny workbech-test unsucessful.

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I used the spanner wrench end of my Miller flange wrench to put leverage on the axle shaft.  A pipe wrench is just as effective.

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Looking through these holes in the differential case, you can confirm that the Lock Right drivers are moving inward when compressed.

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I had to cheat by pushing in on the drivers with screwdrivers while turning the axle in order to get the Lock Right to ratchet.

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The manual supplied with the Lock Right is for a two-pinion, one-piece differential with large side openings.  It lacks detail specific to the Dodge differential.

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