Decided it was time to hook up my shop to the boiler. That way I can get the add on wood furnace out of there which will open up some space. Not having the wood supply in there will mean more space as well. I wanted to shop around to bundle all me insurance and found most all companies refuse to insure a shop building with a stove even if it is UL listed as mine was. Here we go.
Album by Kevin Foust. 1 - 38 of 38 Total. 10462 Visits.
1 Here is an old pic of the boiler house where the het source is and the shop. What I have to do is run the lines under the floor, through the foundation walls on a slow sweeping curve. The pipe is really stiff and can only be bent in about an 8 foot circle.
2 I built the building so it could be taken apart easily to get the stove out if need. You have to lift from above so everything was screwed together and I used cathedral trusses.
3 I drained the stove to get rid of the extra weight. Hoses come in underneath and you can see the ones currently going to the house and attached garage. I lifted the stove with the backhoe and set it on 4 car skates and pushed it back out of the way. If you look close you can see I have cut the 6 inch thick floor for the line hole. I need a good bit of space to work.
4 There is 1/2" rebar in there as well so I'll get some quality time with a sledge hammer and rotary hammer. I could have just cut a slot in the floor but I don't want the floor to be messed up.
5 Chipping away at it. Literally.
6 All that is out so time to start digging.
7 Did BUNCH of measuring and decided where the exit hole should be for height and length. I need an 8 inch diameter hole for the pipe. I dug outside down to the depth I needed. I marked that on the footer wall and started drilling. Didn't want to spend thousands to have some come and core drill this. The footer wall is 16 inches thick so not fun.
8 This took quite a while to do and it was extremely hot while doing it but I got it. Now the real fun part. I have to use a hand held auger and drill horizontally and try to get the holes to line up.
9 It was just about 12 foot under the floor and made an extension for the auger. I triangulated the angles to figure what angle was needed and laid a straight edge to keep that right. I was VERY relieved when it finally broke through and I hit it perfectly. Got Lucky I guess. I'm using field tile as a liner so if needed, I can always replace the heat lines.
10 Very good feeling to have that in place and done. I'll mix up some concrete and seal the outer diameter later.
11 Here you can see the tile run better.
12 From there I dug the trench to the shop. Ground was extremely hard so I cheated and used the auger to dig down to the depth I needed. Just had to shave the rounded corners of the ditch.
13 I painted the grass to where I wanted to go through the shops foundation and floor.
14 This shows my cheating. LOL
15 Shops foundation was done in the 1920's- 1930's. That footer went down 36 inches and about 12 inches wide. Thing was they back filled concrete with larger rocks. As luck would have it, Several Granit rocks had to be busted where a needed to enter. LOL Took about a whole day to get them out.
16 Once the hole was through the wall and I had enough of a gentle sweep up, I put the field tile in. I then used a fishtape and pulled a rope through to help pull the pipe.
17 Here is the heating pipe. Has a harder outer layer and inside are 2 one inch pipes that are incased in closed cell foam. The same kind of foam like Great stuff and insulates really well.
18 Here you can see the pipes and how it enters in the shop.
19 I drilled a hole through both pipes and stuck a bolt through and this is what the rope attached to in order to pull. O did not want it slipping off midway.
20 I tried to find the fittings I needed but was unable to without a bunch of bulk stepdowns. I wanted stainless or brass. Found an old stainless pump shaft I had and will make them from this.
21 Cut the ends off and will hold from both ends to get what I want.
22 Drilled the through holes first then turned the diameters to size, I also did some reliefs/barbs for the hose to grip better. This system has very little pressure but overkill is good.
23 I'm using a large truck radiator for a heat exchanger so I needed to neck down from a radiator hose to the 1 inch.
24 here is the radiator I'm using. I don't want to mount it completely solid. Gives me some adjustment and play. I came up with using 2x4's with a slot groove that will ride on the edges of the core. Loose but secure. You can see the groove on the edge of the 2x4 at the bottom.
25 Went to the scrap yard and found some heavy aluminum angle. Will work very nice for this. Wood will just slide in and I'll run screws through the side to lock it in place.
26 The lower limit rests on the end tank. I gave it about 2 inches of upward allowance. The wood is at upper/lower limits here.
27 I used bevel headed fasteners on to edges as I will lag bolt into wall studs and ceiling trusses. That way, it's all out of the way up high.
28 Lower limit.
29 Upper limit.
30 Now I need to mount the pipe to the wall with a standoff. Has to be kind of stout and I found some really nice clamps at the scrap yard.
31 These will work really nice. Got some box tubing to mount to the wall. I drilled a hole in the middle of the clamp and that will attach to the box tubing.
32 Makes a very clean install.
33 So far so good. I'll add another once I get the radiator in place.
34 Use the shipping cap as a cover on the end. Just made 2 holes for the pipes to slip through.
35 Got it all mounted up and the hoses on.
36 I mounted a normal box fan on the back. Plan is to have the thermastat below and when heat is needed, the fan will run.
37 All the upper work is finished now.
38 Mixed up some concrete and filled the hole in. I waited a couple days then cut the tile flush with the floor.
