 As delivered. The Hood, roof, Driver's side floor, Trunk floor, trunk lid, lower 1/4s & fenders will be replaced. This car sat outside for 8 or 9 years with no window in the drivers door.
|  This side doesn't look too bad.
When you open the picture you can click on "original" size for a large view.
|  Trunk lid is really bad, lets water into the trunk. Im sure the trunk floor will need to be replaced too.
|  Right front
|
 Left front
|  Fender tag codes:
R26 V5X 26 EN2
N41 N42 N85 N95 N98
G36 H31 J25 J54 M21 N23
V1X U B51 C16 C55 G11
FC7 M6X9 000 607 050912
E55 D21 JS23 H1B XXXXXX
E55=340 4 BBL
D21=HD 4 Spd Trans
N41= Dual exhaust
FC7=Plum Crazy
R26= AM/Cassette
|  Update: Here is my reproduction fender tag, completely accurate to the original.
|  Passenger side floor looks good.
|
 Driver side floor has serious rust. There are several holes and the metal is paper thin in spots.
|  Rallye dash and steering wheel with no cracks! 92,575 original miles.
|  Serious rust under the wiper cowl. Seems solid underneath. Will remove the wiper cowl and see.
|  Drilling out the spot welds to remove the wiper cowl.
|
 Hmm, rust all the way through. I may have to patch a small piece of the firewall.
|  Wow, this thing is rotten from one end to the other! I made some holes just by scrubbing the loose rust with a wire brush. No way can this be sandblasted clean.
|  I decided to remove and replace the entire firewall. I drilled out the 200 or so spot welds with a spot weld cutter. I bought a quality spot weld cutter and it easily lasted the entire time. I've bought cheap (Chinese) ones before that didn't last for 6 spot welds.
|  I sandblasted, acid washed and etch primed the fender wells. The K frame and suspension have been removed, blasted, painted and rebuilt with poly bushings. I used paint remover and a putty knife to remove the undercoating before sandblasting.
|
 Actually got the firewall out in one piece! And it really wasn't that hard of a job. The American bit cut like butter.
|  The leading edge of the floor pan is readily visible. No dash, steering, brakes, windshield, or firewall!
|  The Auto Metal Direct "AMD" firewall fits pretty good; it only needed some slight massaging at the upper corners. The Wiper cowl will cover the upper 1/3 of the firewall so I used polyurethane sealant around the vent intakes. I will prime and paint the upper firewall and bottom of wiper cowl (Plum Crazy) before the wiper cowl is spot welded on.
|  I will be using a modern sound deadening material (like E-Dead) on the inside of the firewall, so I have welded up the retaining clip holes, which held on the old style fiberglass insulation. That will make the engine compartment look much better!
|
 I have since upgraded the tach with an R/T Engineering kit; I installed a quartz movement in the clock, both were easy to do; I installed a new 5 volt gauge regulator. I had Redline Gauge Works replace the Ammeter with a Volt meter, and check everything (They did a good job). I polished the plastic with buffing compound and a new microfiber cloth...Looks great.
|  Mock up of wiper cowl and windshield to test the fit.
|  The windshield fits well.
|  Looks good, Cant wait to paint the rest of the front end.
|
 The purple area will be mostly hidden once I weld on the wiper cowl, but no way will it rust again.
|  Apparently the bottom of the cowl was left bare metal by the factory; I can find no evidence of paint underneath.
|  This should last a long time.
|  AMD Wiper Cowl welded in. The hidden areas, left bare by the factory, are painted.
|
 Fit was very good; just need a little light grinding on the welds.
|  The driver's side rusty floor pan has been removed. The rocker and cross supports are in great shape. They will be cleaned and painted before the new floor goes in.
|  Another view of the rocker and supports. The edge of the rusty rear floor pan is visible. It is the next to go.
|  The inside of the floor supports have been sand blasted, acid washed and painted to prevent rust.
|
 The rusty rear foot well pan has been removed. The backseat pan has been sandblasted, acid washed and primed with an etching primer to prevent rust.
|  The front pan is welded into place. The fit of the pan was very good, the contours on the factory trans tunnel lined up with the floor pan almost exactly.
|  The rear foot well pan is in, it also fit very well. I had to add a patch to cover a 1/4 inch gap where I cut too much off the original trans tunnel.
|  Another view. The gap b/t the front and rear pan is caused by a raised flange on the front pan. They are plug welded together flat. The gap gets filled with seam sealer. The car is now solid except for the trunk pan.
|
 Firewall bodywork done and sprayed with primer. I also sandblasted & primed the entire windshield channel and A-pillars.
|  Door pillar & jamb, before.
|  Door jamb, pillar, and rocker sandblasted and primed. Same on the driver's side.
|  Door hinges and a few other parts disassembled and ready for blasting. The door hinges were very easy to rebuild with new pins and bushings with a kit from "Help" parts. All four hinges were less than $20.
Do not buy new or rebuilt hinges before you try to rebuild your own. if they are really bad "Mopar Leo" on the E-body forums does outstanding rebuilds.
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