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renovations
Album by Dinah Taylor. Photos by Dinah Taylor. 1 - 278 of 278 Total. 4168 Visits.
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only house door I have.  So porous that water and snow and ice poured in.  Two large holes that I had to put metal sheets on floor saying:  "Step Over", so people wouldn't fall in.  I cut carped which was all moldy and dragged out bags of trash

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all cleaned up.  This was on a Sunday in June, the next day the garbage went and Tues. JC and Spencer came and worked on the floor.  This door will replace the same side door of the french doors that go into the kitchen from the porch (actually sunroom).  At least the new one will have new jambs and new weatherstripping.

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You can see where one of the holes was.

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Spencer and JC reinforcing the joists to hold new treated plywood

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All finished and waiting for them to come back and put in the door.

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Took down three kitchen cabinets.  Will paint and add floating shelves from Barnwood.

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Old cabinets for JC's office.

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When I moved the walnut desk from the other wall I took off the front side and it still fell on me when I moved it.  LOL

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moving my first farm table to here

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walnut desk all assembled.  Now to move the printer and set that up.

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still have to put these photos on the wall

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schedule board in kitchen

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horsey board-oops mom did I stop too fast? and the tear drop board to the right

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harness ring I got from the barn the other day when getting boards for the upstairs

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router under table

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carpet that has been removed as well as railing

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bread knife

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getting ready to cut out carpet to add wood

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This was the kitchen around June 2016

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I need to add a baseboard to the back wall of the kitchen.

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I found 2 pcs. of barn wood 160" long.

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I cleaned, sanded and oiled this one after cutting it to length.

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Here it is inside the kitchen

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I used 10-2 1/2" GRK trim screws to install.

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This wall dips in the middle 1/3 and the floor sags.  I can't do anything about the sagging, but I can put in wood shims to make it tighter and straighter.

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This is one of the old windows from the barn.  I made a chalkboard back so I could have a place to put my schedule.

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The board is totally level, but looking at it, I can see it's crooked by about 1/2".  The whole wall in here is off, so I just make sure what goes in is level.

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I moved everything off my maple 19th century butcher block and sanded it from 36 grit to 600 grit and then moved it into the kitchen

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Before oiling and waxing.

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everything but the top

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finished with one of my barn beam stools

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brushed and sanded, cleaned with a rag and applied MinWax furniture wax.

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Buffed with moleskin cloth attached to my Ridgid 4 1/2x4 1/2 sander.

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Some areas are down to the wood to create a more 'used and vintage' look.

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Copper 10 gauge wire I used to make door handles and pulls.  These are about 2 years old.

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They oxidized over time, but I like that look.

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This is the upper cabinet that I brushed and   waxed.  I buffed it with a rag.

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Shiny and shows the wood grain through

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This is the door knob for the upper cabinets-I also made them for the bottom doors.

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I've finished the sides and frames of the cabinets and taken off all the drawers and doors.  I will replace the drawer fronts with sanded and cleaned barn wood, and the doors will be double painted in white with dark wax added after.

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I started on the trim around the windows.

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On the clear space I am going to add two 1/4" thick plate glass shelves on antique iron brackets for the coffee and tea bar and cups and mugs.

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Microwave covered up until I put on the second coat on the walls.

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I'm thinking of leaving the dark grey on the ceiling

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ideas for cabinets:  finish is made up of layered colors and spattered dark paint (to mimic fly specks). When the paint is dry, you can "distress" the finish by lightly sanding in the spots where cabinets get the most use to reveal the colors underneath.

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Eventual result

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start on kitchen

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finished north wall and part of cabinets on west wall

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table now in studio and lights removed

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For under $20, I bought two Brooder Lamps, and 2 outlet to socket screw in's, and cut and rewired the 6' cords to 18" long to replace the recessed bulbs above the kitchen farm table I made.  I was really happy with the results!

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Lights on!

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Hall table for Paul Batz.  100yr. reclaimed basswood and red pine.

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October 14, 2014  4th table for Paul.

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after wax and buff over beeswax and orange oil.

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Table is 34" tall, top is 17 1/2" wide board, and 36" long.

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Thursday-Miss Tutti approves of the first coat!
Start to finish was 2 hours, including searching for paint, straining it through a screen into a new container, making sure the brushes were clean and taping off the door.  The one coat is almost dry and I'll put on the second coat later this afternoon.


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First coat of paint finished

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First coat drying-Harry and Miss Tutti Approved

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I had one quart of exterior paint and cut an old piece of screen material and poured the paint into a plastic container.  I used a dowel to stir the paint.  The screen removed any pieces of dirt, rust and stuff from the old can.

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I taped off the parts of the door so I would not over paint places I didn't want paint on.

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Wed. morning.  finally the steps are finished with Tutti Approval!

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Top board ready to put on.

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Before I took off the top step, which needed my chisels and a light touch, so I could selvage the risers.

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Taking off pieces 1" at a time.

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Tuesday evening

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3 finished steps-2 more to go

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after all the sanding and then the beeswax and orange oil, then finishing wax and buffing

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threshold board on bottom, hemlock on top

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boards from barn cut and sanded from 36 grit to 220 grit

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cheap railings, and rotted boards

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The board on the left is 12" oak, which will be the threshold step, then the long board the middle 3, and one I had inside the bottom

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Tuesday morning-
I found a long hemlock roofing board 12" wide in the annex and had to take out many many nails


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Monday morning

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railings off, and temp board on bottom

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Second table for Paul Batz.  Top is 28" long.  Cut and sanded.

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legs are 27" long, using the boards from the barn.

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before planing and sanding.

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after sanding with 50grit.

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top and 2 legs.

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shelf brackets and dowels ready to set on the legs of the table.

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glued in and then hammered in place.

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finished one leg

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both shelf brackets finished

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top finished.

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Flipped over and then the red one on.

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flipped table over and doweled in the opposite lower brace.

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top of one side.

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Top of table has dowels and glue

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Top board shown underneath, middle board, then the top board here shown on the top of the  picture.

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I made a shelf out of a piece from the end of the top board that had split, planed and then sanded it, and just placed the top on for the night to let the dowels seat in the table.

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Saturday I will drill the holes and put in the dowels for the top of the table, give it a finished sanding and put on the orange oil and beeswax, paste wax, then buff it and add my copper tag.

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I started with a 17" wide Red Pine board from the flooring on the second floor of the Annex barn.  These boards are over 100 years old.  

I had to wire brush off all the whitewash covering.  This took almost 2 hours to accomplish.


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Here is one end of a 10 foot board that is pretty free of the limestone/calcium wash.

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This is the other side, the outside of the board.  White washed side was inside giving the animals a brighter place.  This was a small dairy farm, and the annex barn, the last one standing, still has the concrete and center aisle, although now it's covered in areas of the  wood I've reclaimed.

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I started sanding with 50 grit, then 80, then 110, then finished with 150.

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These are hand sawn boards of red pine, used for ceiling joists in the barns.  These boards are 2 1/2" thick, and 10" wide.  I wanted to keep the saw marks from the mill on the boards, because it says so much.  I also sanded these like I did with the top board.

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To create a shelf, I cut and shaped two boards to lay the shelf on, and a back board half way down to stabilize the table, and two boards on the top.  The issue was keeping the same square measurements top to bottom.  I had to redo this several times and then stand against one side and push in order to keep the measurements when I screwed in the deck screws.

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Here it is, waiting for the top, filling the holes, sanding again, finishing and the shelf.

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Here it is with the top.  It's not permanently affixed as yet, because I have to fill the holes, and finish all the pieces before I put the top on.

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There is a natural bow to these boards, so that determines which side is up!

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When I get my honey/beeswax on here, then the  Minwax finishing wax, and buff it, you won't believe the result.

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From the front.  It's 28" tall, and 17" wide

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The back of the table.

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ready to mortise and pin this bench next week.

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sanding finished on table

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beeswax and orange oil on half the table

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Finished Table.

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I found an old tongue and groove oak door in the Annex, and since I had just sold my Hoosier kitchen cabinet, I needed a table, so I decided to make one.  This was damaged on the one end and I cut that off.

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Here is the bottom of the table top before I started sanding.

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The top had spray painting on it, and I sanded and sanded and sanded to get that paint off there, after trying turpentine and vinegar.

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First four boards sanded.

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Great grains!

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I decided if I wanted to ever move this thing, I'd need to cut slots around the perimeter so that the skirt that would be attached to the legs could fit in.  It was very time consuming with a chisel and hammer until I was able to adjust the lower pad on my circular saw.  :)

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I was able to cut the areas out, and not cut into the table top, and the pieces came right out.  I reinforced the smaller sections with 1 1/4" nails.

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Here is what it looks like before sanding

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Here is the finished sanded table top.  I turned it over on the sawhorses and started to make the skirt.

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Here it is sanded and ready to start.

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I had a pretty tough time trying to find boards that would not only fit but that looked good as well.  They all had to be squared off and tacked until it was all stable.

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Here I'm just having a look at how the inner board will look with the legs.  I was constantly measuring diagonals and using a level to make sure it was all square.

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After adding the inner boards on the short side, I started using star top deck screws one at a time, then checking with a level then adding two more, until everything was right.

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About that shelf stretcher......Well since I wanted it to be level, and I don't have a 3rd hand, I cut two scraps, taped them on to the legs so they wouldn't move, and put the stretcher for the shelf on, drilled the holes and put them on.

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Here is what the board looks like from the outside.

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On the other end, I had to use shims to make sure that the short boards were exactly the same depth as the other end.

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drilled hole

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after deck screws

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Inside all cleaned up and shelf board holder on.

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Trying to find 4 boards that weren't warped, or cracked or had the tongue half off, or the groove half there was a challenge and I had 14 1/4" inside between the legs.

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I decided to bring the frame of the table inside the kitchen.  I just stepped inside the frame and picked it up, and walked into the kitchen.  A bit unorthodox, but I needed to see how moveable it was if I decided to make more.

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A quick word about the 4x4's.  I will NEVER again use treated wood.  They are not true, or level and twist and check badly.

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Here is the underside of the top and the base in the kitchen

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Here is the top fitted on the frame.  All of it is easily moved into place and assembled.  The top does not move about, and the entire thing could support two dancers on top.

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I still have to finish the legs and the top.  I'll prime and paint the legs and use Tung oil and wax on the top.

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The shelves were a real problem.  I ended up taking the tongue off one outside board, and the groove off the other end-much sanding after cutting, and having to hold down the board on two sawhorses without moving it was somewhat of a challenge but I was pleased with the outcome.  The green board was cut into two 1"x1"x14" pieces that I put 1" in on the base so it could not move when the shelf was placed on the shelf boards..  I had to clamp this together, measure, draw lines, and find square top finishing screws for this.  In order to start, I pre-drilled holes in the green board, took a pair of vise grips with my square top bit, and got the screws just out on the bottom side.  then I was able to screw them in.

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I had one end finished of the shelf, and clamped the other end together, and dragged it into the kitchen before I added the second under board.  Of course the clamps came off, but the un boarded end stayed pretty well until I could scribe the mark for the second board.

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Here is the finished result before the finish on the top and legs.

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24 Jan, all walls mudded and sanded and next wall goes up

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all but the ceiling and trims around door

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all finished with sink installed and baseboard finished

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before shower curtain.

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ceiling finished

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Feb. 2, brought down small chest for clothing

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all shingles finished with new ridge vent on peak.

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