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Haskell--Signatures, Findings, Beads
The Haskell signature has varied over the years, but most important is to remember that dating pieces by the type of signature can be unreliable.  The metal filigree back was adopted after WWII.  Haskell had/has millions of beads and findings which were used over a number of years and collections.  The signature plaques (horseshoe, oval, etc.) were pre-soldered to the filigrees, and the particular one used was dependent on the amount of room available for its application.  When the jewelry was assembled, the filigree with signature would be selected based on the design of the piece.  Hooks can have a flower, dove, turtle decoration or, in the mid 1970s, were plain.  Hooks used in the early 1950s did not always have a signature.  It is important to consider the entire picture--fronts, backs, beads, leaves, findings, design style--and these parts of the whole can lead to an estimate of time.  This album also provides numerous examples of beads, findings, leaves, etc. so that you can get a small idea of the range of materials she used.
October 20, 20021 - 40 of 97 Images57928 visitsAlbum by Cathy GordonPhotos by Cathy Gordon
Enlarge photo 1 Haskell horseshoe plaque. This is the earliest signature plaque, used primarily in 1948-1950 but are still in Haskell's inventory today.  Haskell soldered the design plaques onto the filigree backs long before they were used on a piece of jewelry, using whichever one (horseshoe or oval) that fit best on the backing.  Then, when jewelry was made, a piece with the applied plaque was used based on fit.  Apparently the horseshoe was discontinued because it bent too easily when being soldered onto the backs.
Enlarge photo 2 Haskell oval hang-tag with stamping carrying through to back side.  Use started in approximately 1950-1951.  Easily detached and reused on jewelry that is not Haskell, so identification of a piece should also rely on other factors such as beads, findings, etc. Later oval hangtags were flat on the backs, an indication that the jewelry was made starting in 1979 (or so) to present.
Enlarge photo 3 Two dove clasp ornaments.  The top shows an incorrect dove (or one that was being considered as a finding, but not used) and the bottom shows the commonly used dove configuration.  According to Millie Petronzio, the lower dove was used into the 1970s.  You will also find it used as decoration on pins.

Haskell most commonly used the flower as a clasp ornament, but you will find the dove and also a turtle.

Enlarge photo 4 Hook (not) showing the Haskell signature.  Imagine that you could see Haskell in block letters in the area indicated by the black square.  Anyway, this is the location to look for the signature on the hook.
Enlarge photo 5 Haskell oval plaque first used in 1950-1951.  This is soldered to the filigree back.  The oval mark is still used today by Haskell Jewels. When used as a hangtag, the contemporary tags are flat on the back while the pre-1979 tags show the Haskell imprint in reverse on the back side.
Enlarge photo 6 Back of a set showing a variety of Haskell identification.  The back of the hook is also signed.
Enlarge photo 7 Raised, stamped label, found on necklace and bracelet clasps starting from the early 1950s.  In rare instances, the signature is indented.
Enlarge photo 8 Design plaque used by Haskell for their contemporary Limited Edition series from the earlyy 1990s.  These pieces are numbered and come with a Certificate of Authenticity.  Picture from an eBay auction.
Enlarge photo 9 Primitive screw clips that are probably from the WWII era when metal was unavailable.  Beads are wired directly to the metal.  Unsigned Haskell.
Enlarge photo 10 Early Haskell blue glass bead earrings, showing one of the earliest clip styles, c. 1930s.  Unsigned Haskell.
Enlarge photo 11 The two styles of unsigned flat clips I have definitely identified as Haskell.
Enlarge photo 12 Unsigned clip back; this is a hoop earring.
Enlarge photo 13 Early Haskell screw clips with metal plate covering pierced metal.  Unsigned Haskell.
Enlarge photo 14 French wire earring back used from the late 1940s.  These earrings are unsigned, but on later earrings, the signature would be located on the contact plate on the filigree backing.
Enlarge photo 15 French wire clips.  Note the metal plate covering the pierced metal on the left and a later version using a filigree back (probably mid-late 1940s but pre-signature).  Unsigned Haskell.
Enlarge photo 16 Various styles of signed Haskell clip earring backs (top 2 used starting in 1980s, bottom 2 use started in the early 1950s).  Flat clip backs were used up until the mid-1940s, when comfort complaints caused Haskell to start using the french wire style.  Haskell transitioned to different flat clipbacks in the early 1950s, after the french styles also proved problematic.  Haskell adopted the adjustable screwback earring in 1960-1961.  

More recent Haskell flatbacks (starting in the 1980s) are signed HASKELL while the older ones are signed MIRIAM HASKELL.

Enlarge photo 17 Signed Haskell earclip showing filigree and construction.  Note--there is NO center rivet attaching the clip back to the filigree.
Enlarge photo 18 Adjustable screwback clips on these Haskell pearl button earrings.  This style was used from 1960-1961 until the 1990s.  There are two styles of these adjustable screwbacks, the first showing a patent number on the top bar and the later version with "Haskell" stamped on the top bar.  Signature may also appear on the contact area.
Enlarge photo 19 Adjustable screwclip earrings in use starting in 1960.  These clips have the patent number (2,400,513) stanmped on the top bar of the clip, with the Haskell signature on the small metal circle at the solder point.
Enlarge photo 20 Second version of the adjustable screwclips, marked HASKELL on the top of the earring "bar."  Haskell started to use these in 1965.  Note how the screw goes through a double loop, making the adjustment more secure.  These are patent number 3,176,475; occasionally, you will find these earrings marked solely with the patent number on the flat bar, with no Haskell signature.  

I have also seen 2 pairs of earrings using this finding marked Miriam Haskell in script on the top of the screw mechanism.

Enlarge photo 21 Pierced metal back.
Enlarge photo 22 Filigree back of necklace.  A filigree is a type of metalwork made by interlacing metal wires and soldering them to one another.  Haskell then electroplated the filigree by a process whereby the metal was immersed in a galvanic bath, as the result of which a thin layer of gold, silver or rhodium-colored layer formed on the immersed material.  Verdigris (or the dread greenies) happen when the metal or wiring has lost its plating and is corroding.
Enlarge photo 23 Gilt metal spacer beads.
Enlarge photo 24 More elaborate metal spacer beads.
Enlarge photo 25 Gilt metal flowers with glass beads and roses montees.
Enlarge photo 26 Metal filigree surrounding a black glass bead.  Note metal head pins through beads in background.
Enlarge photo 27 Gilt metal flower with pearl center and coral-colored glass leaves.
Enlarge photo 28 Flower-shaped gilt metal finding with a seed pearl center.  These findings have two pieces that hide the wires.
Enlarge photo 29 Gilt metal flowers with turquoise glass beads in varying shapes.
Enlarge photo 30 Gilt metal finding on rose pink glass flower.
Enlarge photo 31 Silver-tone metal flower with Chinese red glass beads.
Enlarge photo 32 Silver-tone metal beads, filigree and "dangles."
Enlarge photo 33 Silver-tone filigree with turquoise glass beads.
Enlarge photo 34 Gilt metal filigree leaves form a layered look with a turquoise art glass flower and filigree center, and oblong turquoise art glass beads.
Enlarge photo 35 Gilt filigree flowers with turquoise glass beads.
Enlarge photo 36 A (poor) example of roses montees, defined as:  : rhinestones cut into a rosette with flat backs and mounted into cup-shaped settings that conceal the wire used to attach it to the support.
Enlarge photo 37 Roses montees, gilt floral findings and vaseline glass beads.
Enlarge photo 38 Roses montees formed into a rhinestone ball.
Enlarge photo 39 Pot metal leaves with glued-in rhinestones.  It was confirmed by a long-time Haskell employee that Haskell did glue in rhinestones (pre-signature pieces, many from WWII).
Enlarge photo 40 Another example of pot metal leaves and glued rhinestones.