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July 7, 201039 Images3575 visitsAlbum by Adam Ellison
Enlarge photo 1 Original pulley set up and rear driveshaft; front shaft was missing.
Enlarge photo 2 Truck with body removed.  Original engine had been replaced long ago.  Front springs were flat and the driver's side had two broken leaves.
Enlarge photo 3 Governor control lever.  It was mounted under dash, right of center.
Enlarge photo 4 Dodge 360 V8 with Thermoquad carb.

I welded up all the firewall holes(dozens) and sprayed the firewall, bottom of cab and interior(except dash) with Hippo liner. I drilled new holes as required.

Enlarge photo 5 My upper seat frame was completely rotten.  The bottom was salvagable...  I went with buckets and center console strictly for comfort.
Enlarge photo 6 The wood is Ash, I believe, which was very light.  The stain was Black, applied and quickly wiped off. I tried different red stains but they did not compliment the color of the truck.
Enlarge photo 7 Spray on liner on sides only.  Sides were pretty rough and pitted, liner saved alot of time and money that it would have cost to make flawless.
Enlarge photo 8 Another view of bed liner, wood and header panel.
Enlarge photo 9 Bed / fender mock up.
Enlarge photo 10 The Maroon paint is a Mercedes Benz color. I dont remember what year. It is a single stage solid color paint, no metallic, no clear coat.

The other Maroon paints I looked at from GM and Toyota are ok, but have a brown hue to them.

Enlarge photo 11 These trucks are deceptively tall.

Cowl lights were converted to parking lights/turn signals.

Enlarge photo 12 Totally stock suspension and the hood is higher than the roof of my Challenger.
Enlarge photo 13 Tail lights not wired up, no tailgate chains, pintle hitch not installed.

Update: tail lights, brake lights and turn signals are now operational.

Enlarge photo 14 Roberts tail lights with nice glass lenses.  The Roberts cups were ok but needed fabrication to mount a light socket inside. The cast iron arms were very very crude, so I fabbed my own.
Enlarge photo 15 I welded up a round tube to the top of a square tube to mount inside the cowl for the non-fuctional radiator cap.
Enlarge photo 16 I mounted my aluminum radiator in front of the core support for more room; thus I had to move the rear winch angle forward by 1/2 inch. I made my own frame extensions and moved the front winch angle forward also.
Enlarge photo 17 Barely clears the garage. Good view of window tint.
Enlarge photo 18 Original speedo rebuilt; all other gauges rebuilt with modern internals.  I swithed to white (obviously)faces, but was disappointed the gauge shop used generic lettering instead of the original style.
Enlarge photo 19 48 rim date. Blasted & powder coated rims and rings.  I used allen screws in the axle flanges.  I know the square bolts would be easier to use in the field....
Enlarge photo 20 Original Data Plate, only 74 h.p.
But with 5.83 to 1 differential gearing!

Enlarge photo 21 One piece door windows.  All glass has a light green tint, incl windshield.  The glass shop can also make them with smoke or gold tint. Tinted windows are legal in Calif. if the glass itself is tinted.
Enlarge photo 22 I used a flat glass power window kit from www.ballsrodandkustom.com/ American made, easy to install.

Stock type door handle and window winders.  The crank handles control the power/electric windows, just push down for down and up for up.

Enlarge photo 23 The black wood stain gives a weathered appearance.
Enlarge photo 24 Fold down armrest with cup holders on top. Seat belts were added at this point... I know seatbelts, cupholders, and armrests are for sissys.
Enlarge photo 25 Pintle hitch added.
Enlarge photo 26 Reproduction rear fenders. I added the original reinforcing plates & brackets for an original look.
Enlarge photo 27 One piece power windows and electric door locks.  I can unlock /lock the doors with a key fob (no chirp).
Enlarge photo 28 Good view of liner. I used "Hippo liner"  tinted to match the paint. Hippo liner is fairly inexpensive $80 to $90 for a bed kit. It sets up/feels harder than Linex or Rhino liner.
Enlarge photo 29 Removed this heater out of a 51 parts truck.  I had the core cleaned and checked for $25.  It was already 12 volt, and works fine.

The dash was color sanded and buffed like the exterior.

Enlarge photo 30 Reproduction plate for display only. From www.licenseplates.tv
Check their site, they will make just about anything u want.

Update: they no longer make California plates.

Enlarge photo 31 I drove it to the Spring fling, April 2011.  It ran well and got lots of looks... I do think the expression "It drives like a truck" originated with these trucks.
Enlarge photo 32 Manual Trans  Transfer case set up.
I will set this up with a hydraulic slave cylinder, and throw-out bearing.

Enlarge photo 33 Small block bell, NP435 with dual PTO ports, T/C adapter, 23 spline coupler, NP 205 gear driven Transfercase.
Enlarge photo 34 Trans completely rebuilt with new bearings and seals.
Enlarge photo 35 Transfer case completely rebuilt with new bearings and seals.
Enlarge photo 36 This set up will replace the 727 auto and NP 241 currently in the truck.
Enlarge photo 37 I located the battery tray on the back of the cross member.  It keeps it up nice and high, and away from the engine heat.
Enlarge photo 38 View of battery from left front tire.
Enlarge photo 39 View of the battery box from the front. Well protected against rocks, screws and mud-balls.