 My plan was to use the door hinges and latch as the mounting points for lifting and spinning as it's fairly central. On the door latch side I ground some thick metal down to where it was smaller than the factory double hook assembly. I welded it to the box tubing I'm using for the framework after drilling the holes.
|  Top bar is connected in 2 spots and the lower is hanging on just the hinge. Now I need to bring them together to be a solid, one piece unit. Spacer are used on purpose on the hinge side in case their are cab variances in future projects.
|  Relieved and weld as one unit. A chop saw makes this stuff quick.
|  End view shows where socket head cap screws will attach to latch mount. I can use a thin strip of poly when final painted to avoid scratches.
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 Finish welding all the sides. Fits nice plenty strong.
|  Close up shows how you have to angle it to get into the recess. I wanted t screws to be as short as possible.
|  I'm using a plate with double wall pipe for the 1" rod to pass through. The rod will be the spinning axis. I want some adjustment as I don't know the weights centerline so the plate with have to be "slideable"
|  Simple bolts with a plate on the back will do the trick.
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 You can see what I'm going for here.
|  Mounted both side up and put in the double wall pipe. I'll slide the rod in and tack up so the holes will be aligned correctly.
|  I cut out some angle gussets for added strength. Overbuilt I know, but I don't like doing things twice.
|  On the top of the door plate I welded 2 runs of angle iron. One acts as a guide or locking system and the other is for added strength. The overhead bar will slide into this for lifting. It'll all make more sense with future pics.
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 Better view of it.
|  This is the overhead lifting bar. Needs to be strong so I'm adding a stretcher/bridger. For the lower bar to bend the strap steel has to "stretch", this is how you increase the lifting capability a lot. I first weld a spacer block in the center.
|  Then I bend the ends down and tack weld it with a C clamp holding it.
|  Move the C clamp in more and weld a couple of beads which tightens it all up. If it bows it the other way, all the better.
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 Welded down arms with gussets and repeated angle slides on the bottom. It all slip together quickly and you safety lock it with either bolts or Vise Grips.
|  More angle gussets for strength.
|  Top view and it's coming together.
|  Ready to lift off. I made the overhead frame as well from I beam and box tubing. You can see some of the same strengthening methods used on it too.
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 Cab off and I actually rolled the frame forward with the bed on. Loads better than the plank I used to put it on.
|  Next was the wheels for the spinner. I decided on an A frame designs and weld a double wall tube at the top. Using box tubing on this as well.
|  Tubing cut on angle and gusset again for stability.
|  Wheels are unidirectional and larger for easy rolling. I weld nuts onto the double wall tubing and use bolts to lock it down in the position I want to be working on. Bolts on the end keep it all together.
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 You can see all the bolts here and I'll add more later.
|  This is the complete unit, minus 1 inch bar. It's easy moved and pretty compact.
|  narrow enough to store along a wall.
|  This is the cab mover I made to haul and store cabs. The posts can be change, heightwise as they are just 1 inch rod. That way when painting a cabs outside you can jack it up off the floor to your desired level.
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 I use this to haul cabs as well. I take off the wheels and run chains through the gussets. Texas to Ohio went great recently.
|  With cab on mover it's very easy to move around.
|  This way there is no chance of the skirts below the doors getting messed up.
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