A Year In Review With HODINKEE's Editors
Whether you ever get a chance to use these for their intended purpose, they're great looking watches with a real connection to both horological history, and to Frederique Constant's own history as well. They're also very attractively priced, considering that you're getting an interesting take on an unusual complication – the most expensive (and I think most handsome) version, in rose gold plate, is $3495 ($3195 for the steel model).Limited to 2,500 pieces and hitting Grand Seiko retail for $5,200, I have to think this will be one of the most popular models in the lineup, as the SBGR321 offers a straightforward automatic movement and costs some $1,100 less than the (admittedly more limited) SBGH281 Hi-Beat 60th Anniversary model.Caliber: Patented replika Panerai ROCS – Ressence Orbital Convex System – driven by the minute axle of a specially customized 2892/A caliberFunctions: Hours, minutes, secondse-crown Functions: Second time zone, mechanical power saver, self-setting, time monitoringPower Reserve: 36 hoursWinding: Self-winding and via case-back leverFrequency: 28,800 vphJewels: 45Gears: 37Of course, Ly is a chef, not a secret agent (to our knowledge) but the watch still appeals to him. "I'm not going out of my way to do damage," he says. "But I am a little bit less mindful when I'm wearing this piece. I'm not as stressed. I'm worried more about what I have to do than, 'oh, I gotta be careful with my watch!'''
Down below, the "Astrua Torino" signature is deep, and the sector markings are repliky Audemars Piguet crisp and true. There is a smudge, however, at the 7 o'clock marking, and some printing by the 25 minute marker is faded – the same true at 35.Now for the actual watch and its contents . The rose gold openwork hand, which sits as the proud centerpiece of the RM66 is instantly recognizable. Its representation of the "sign of the horns" symbol was popularized by Ronnie James Dio of Black Sabbath fame. The link isn't hard to make: think Ozzy Osborne biting off bat heads, think Gene Simmons and his "The Demon" stage persona (or the Family Guy parody thereof), think Hells Angels and faded "I heart mom" tattoos.There have been some cool and bold releases from Vacheron this year but it wasn't immediately obvious, to me at least, how big of a difference the Overseas going from 37.5mm to 35mm might make. Until I finally got to try one on.
Speaking of the bezel, the Trekker 39's action is medium in weight and not too clicky. Accuracy is replica Richard Miller good and slop is minimized to just the compression of the bezel's spring. Along those same lines, the general fitment and tolerances are excellent for the price point, with the Trekker 39 feeling tight and well made all the way down to its crown.Price: Autavia Chronometer Flyback Chronograph With Panda Dial, $6,300; Autavia Chronometer Flyback Chronograph Black DLC, $6,950; Autavia Chronometer GMT, $4,200Availability: Right now, at your local TAG Heuer Authorized Dealer and at TAG Heuer online.Limited Edition: N/AThere's not too much to say without getting to see this one in the metal (which I hope to do at some point in the not-too-distant future) other than this being a really compelling first entry into what amounts to an entirely new vertical for La Fabrique du Temps. And when all 20 of these make their way to their respective homes, this Tourbillon Souscription will undoubtedly become collectible in its own right. Stay with us as the next chapter of Daniel Roth unfolds.
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Date(s): April 16, 2025. Album by Phyllisv Fabianv. 0 Total. 0 Visits. |
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