Some pics of fixing up the barns and such at the house.
Album by Kevin Foust. 1 - 549 of 549 Total. 4605 Visits.
1 here it is at the start. Needs paint bad, Spouting doesn't have enough fall and rotted off in spots, doors need new rollers and track, lightning protection system is non functional and loose, bad boards in spots.
2 Rods were rotted off at the ground and even some spots on the barn.
3 Copper wrapped iron. Iron was rusted in two as shown here in several places.
4 New door track and rollers on. Also had to redo the approach into the barns as it was rotted away. Pressure treated used there. Everything was tied back together and is nice now.
5 Little building will get torn down as it's not worth saving. Going to paint the silo as well.
6 Got the new lightning rods and wires installed. The lift came in REAL handy for that one. Painted the section shown here first along with the top half of the silo. Then we pressure washed the roofs, then painted those, Reason being is to keep overspray to a minimum.
7 When we prep a surface we first get all the boards attached/replaced if needed, do the repairs, pressure wash, hand scrap and wire brush completely, then pressure wash again. Extra steps that commercial guys don't do but it does make it last a lot longer. It looks a heck of a lot better to when your done. Just LOTS of labor.
8 Makes for a thick layer of paint chips on the ground but eliminates adhesion problems.
9 Front side ready for primer coat. Grandpa had the Open section at the ground filled in with cement block and rolling doors. Paint is still really good on the block as you can see.
10 I would NOT attempt this project without a lift. I'm spoiled forever now as we use this thing a lot now.
11 Close to 40 ft at the peek and I can get the whole side in this position by just moving the basket around. Doing the final pressure washing here.
12 It will take several days to dry out completely. We'll put the primer on then.
13 FINALLY ready for primer.
14 Rewashed the bottom half of the silo too.
15 Took basically a whole day to wash it again. We used about 3500 gallons of water to do roof, silo and barn sides.
16 Putting the primer on here. Nice to finally get it going the other way looks wise.
17 Started about 8 AM and finished just before 5 PM. Did break for lunch for about an hour.
18 This side really used a lot of paint as it was mostly bare and very dry. Paint ought to lock in very well.
19 Used about 35 gallons of primer to get it done. We'll put the finish coat on tomorrow.
20 Started at 7 AM and finished spraying about 3 PM.
21 Final coat on and looks a l LOT better.
22 Used just over 30 gallons of paint and we painted a lot more area than we did with the primer. Bottom half of the silo, block and rocks were not primed. Wood was sealed so it covered and sprayed a lot faster.
23 Front all done now. I'll get some gravel to smooth up the driveway next.
24 Had a 20 ton load of gravel hauled in and spread it all out.
25 I just had him dump it in a pile at the point of the V where the driveway splits. Power lines trees and off camber makes it so they can't gate it very well.
26 I use the backhoe to spread it out and rough grade. Then go to the box grader. It's a good combination and makes short work of it.
27 This has a side slope on it and big trucks don't care for that when dumping. I know I didn't when I drove them.
28 Including a little handwork, took less than 2 hours to do.
29 Should be good to go for a few years.
30 Earlier we had replaced the beams under the doors as they were rotted in spots. Used Pressure treated 8" X 8's this time. Put a little gravel here as well to make getting in and out easier.
31 Put new tracks on as well, it sure is a lot nicer as we use these quite a bit.
32 Here's the old backhoe. Bucket does a real nice job as you can grade both ways with the right position
33 Box grader on the 175 makes quick work on the finish.
34 Some views of the place.
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39 This is another barn at Moms rental. Didn't get any before pics but here we just finished putting the new roof on after tearing off the old. We tore off in smaller sections. added new screw boards where needed and renailed any loose ones.
40 Next is to do some cleaning and straightening of the sides. Once that is done we're going to reside in metal. Wood siding on the barn was whatever they had and in kinda bad shape in spots. Probably reside it next year.
41 Used the lift disassembled the folded wind pump in the air. I then straightened it all out and assembled it on the ground to make sure it was right. I numbered all the pieces so I knew it was back the way it was.
42 It was twisted up pretty bad but looks a lot better now.
43 Looks a little sad with nothing up there.
44 I would not have attempted this without a lift. It's about 50 ft up.
45 Putting it back together here and so far so good. I was working by myself.
46 All back and happy about that.
47 Decided to go ahead and repaint everything since it was bare in spots due to the bending. Pretty easy with the lift and looks good again.
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49 On to the next project.
50 The shed across the road was totaled out due to the wind pushing it off it's foundations and breaking some beams. Roof pulled loose as well and was about to pull the rafters and all off but was able to chain it down before it did. Here I'm starting to jack up the posts and pull them back into position. I'll anchor them down once in place.
51 Ones like this are easy as there wasn't much movement but have to start somewhere.
52 Once back I anchored it in with angle iron. Lag bolts into the post and Put anchors into the concrete foundations.
53 Whole end was just about an inch out which isn't bad. This will be easy unlike a lot of the others.
54 I jack up the posts inside to get the weight off then push from the outside, using the truck as a backer. An old screw jack works fine for this.
55 Anchor the side wall the same way as the posts.
56 Here is a piece I made years ago to jack posts. Lag it into the post and use a bottle jack to lift. Works well.
57 I overbuilt it but it hasn't failed either!
58 Reinforced it several ways to keep it from bending.
59 This corner post was rotted off on the bottom and need to fix it so it is load bearing again.
60 Took the siding off the outside to see how high up I need to go with it.
61 Putting of the jack plate here. As long as the lags are tight is is really a good way to jack thing up.
62 Makes it easy. This way you can set it to the desired height and find your repair block size. Go higher and insert block and release.
63 Saved the Tenon joint and sawed the post off to good wood.
64 I'm using pressure treated here and did the Mortise and drilled the hole for the pin. Drilled the Mortise hole out then used a wood chisel to get it straight.
65 I'm not going perfect on this as it's just to keep everything in place.
66 Fit great and I'll scab some more wood on the side to complete it.
67 Hole was fine so I'll drive a steel 1" pin on there.
68 Pin in and I used some strap for more overkill. Wanted it flush when we reside so I used a wood chisel to make an inset.
69 Should be fine now.
70 Next post is a little worse. The outside wall has moved out and post should be flush with the higher concrete.
71 Almost 3 inches out and the post has termite damage so I'll have to replace some of it.
72 When I took the siding off it was worse than I thought. Going to be more involved now.
73 Getting worse and I'll have to go up about 5 - 6ft on replace.
74 When I was doing this post I was jacking it up and a crossbeam sheared off, completely flush. It had about 1000lbs of lumber resting on it and it came down on me. I was trapped for about a 1/2 hour as my back really hurt. hit me in the head, then to shoulder and pinned me in. I finally got out and had no visible broken bones, just some scrapes and pain. thought I was okay and went to work but came home as I couldn't hold my arms up very well. Took 3 days off and tried to go to work again. Still the same so I went to the ER. They found I had fractured 5 vertebrae in my neck and back. I was out for a while. God was watching over me I was in the only place that I would not have been crushed or worse. Termites has ate the tenon out but there was no signs from the outside. You never know so I take extra precautions now. I ship lapped the joint and then plated it with steel on 3 sides. This is a year later.
75 Attached this post in as well at the bottom.
76 I bored out the tenons on this replacement as well and pinned them with steel.
77 Used large carriage bolts going completely through the steel and posts. Lags were used on the plate facing the inside.
78 This section of the barn is extremely weak. Center post was gone and hanging. This post was about to slip off it's perch so wanted to get it safe. Cut some dead ash tress and will use them for supports and jacking points to the upper beams. I screw them at the top to keep them in place.
79 1 is for jacking and 1 is to hold it up. As it is raised block are put underneath so it's a safety thing. If a jack kicks out or something, it's not going far.
80 This is the bad center post. The upper cross beam has sagged down and is cracked. I put steel plates on both sides to prevent a bis failure. Put a new beam over top and will tie it in to the next level.
81 The other side and the double lift/support posts.
82 Here you can see how much it has sagged. About 1 1/2". Now that it is supported I can can remove the bad post completely. Going to keep the angle braces and tie them into the new post.
83 Here is a view of the whole section and how it works.
84 Up in the lift you can see the sag here. Top beam in place and straight. I'll saw off the tenons on the angle braces and drill out the wood pin holding the bad post.
85 Used angle iron to lock the post in place. Can't do much else to the sag is taken out and I'm where I need to be. I'll use braces and such when it's all right.
86 Other side.
87 Got the post out and cut another beam to be a bridge over the cracked main beam. This should spread the load better. As I said, once all pushed up, I'll attach everything together. Straps and scab boards are just to hold it there for safety.
88 Had a surprise when I walked into the shed the next Spring. Seems a Raccoon was walking on the overhead beams and must have slipped and fell into a bunch of wood that was standing up. It's leg got wedged and it died there. Can't say I was too sad as they love to go to anything high and poop on everything making a mess. Karma little bandit!
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93 Center span beam was weak so I added another on top. Use thread all to hold them down and angle brackets on the end. I'll end up doing quite a few of these like this.
94 Post foundation pored and you can see how much it needs to come back in. I dig down 18 inches and another 5 1/2 floor depth so they are roughly 2 ft thick. Ship lap new bottoms when needed.
95 Trees again for jack posts and it's a slow process.
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97 Another one done.
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99 Was working around a a lower beam here and had a double post set up with an I beam. Hindsight is to use shorter ones between the beams. This is just too much set up and not needed. Live and learn.
100 Another one done.
101 Spreading the load so the post is floating and the foundation can be poured and held up till it cures. Don't want the weight on it too soon. Several jack points make it safer to work too.
102 You do what you gotta do sometimes. LOL
103 I bought a laser transit an love it. makes working by yourself a LOT easier.
104 Another shiplapped joint for a post.
105 The top of the barn has "racked" so I made plates and attch them to the top of the posts/ Four 1/2" lags and a center thread all the goes completely through. mad up threaded collars that lay flush on the other side so it is NOT coming off. Cables will go through the floor to the foundation and pulled with comealongs. May take them out when finished and braced but may just leave them.
106 Long steel bars were threaded on both ends and thread on eyes are used on the pull side. I tightened them and after a while they bring it closer and loosen. Tighten some more and over several times, it brought it back to plumb. Other end is worse and will use them there as well.
107 Existing back footer wall was too low. I want it to the new floor level. Made it wider as there is a minimum for concrete so i's 12 inches wide to use that up. Drilled into the existing and drove rebar in to keep it from shifting.
108 Did lots of bracing as I didn't want it bowing. Easy pour but lots of work on the set up. You can see the outer posts are floating as they are jacked up.
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110 This is how I jack when there is another beam to deal with. LOADS easier than a double post.
111 Cleaning out the barn and moving stuff to keep going. Got a bunch of lumber down and cut it up as it's overhead weight I don't need to deal with.
112 I'll need quite a bit of fill in the back. Putting some slope on the floor but nothing like they had.
113 With the top right and the bottom in position. I used angle brackets to hold in place. Lags into the post and anchors into the foundations.
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115 This section(left side) is straight again.
116 Taking a break from the barn and helping the guy that farms our place put in about a mile worth of waterway.
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119 I'm picking up rocks with the backhoe I just bought. Love this thing.
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128 We've picked up a few rocks. LOL
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131 Using netting the whole length and I get the joy of stapling it all down. One about every 3 square foot and it'll be 1000's to do.
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139 At the very end I was picking up rocks and rolled this one over. Couldn't believe what I saw and when I was the dirt out, it got even better. Took it to Mom and Dad's and it by their front step now. You just never know where/when things will show up and make you think.
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142 Combining piles of dirt and getting good with the backhoe.
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146 Bucket works nice for leveling. This will be farmed on both sides once the dirt is moved.
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148 New rock shoot at the start of it.
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151 Footer wall poured.
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153 Took some siding off by cutting to a nailer and made a cut. That way w didn't have to drag the concrete very far behind the wall.
154 Some of the posts were correct and had no damage. If the rocks were okay, I just pour around them to new floor level.
155 Termites went WAY up on this post and will have to replace most all of it.
156 Crazy damage.
157 Jacked up and supported so the post can be replaced to the new footer wall. I'll let the weight down on it and then bolt it all in.
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164 All done there.
165 Got it in and made a bunch of brackets to attach everything back.
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167 Somebody ran through my fence so I have this to fix now. Left his license plate so he'll pay for after fleeing the seen.
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172 Leveled more of the waterway. Just fun to do with the right equipment. LOL
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174 My helping hands!
175 First section of floor ready to pour. No heavy equipment will be driven on this so no rebar. It's be 5 1/2" thick of 4000.
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177 Back to doing foundations. I was mixing the other by hand but with doing floor sections, I'll use the extra for the foundations saving that work.
178 Here you can see what is involved.
179 This foundation was fine so pouring on top of it.
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181 This one was sitting on a huge rock so I'll leave it too. Quite a twist on this post!
182 Here you can see it is straight at the top.
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184 Feels good to have one section done.
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188 Time to clean more junk out!
189 Move the things we will keep to the other side. Lots of scrap hauling and wood cutting/burning going on. Some of this stuff has been there since the early 1900's
190 All that lumber is coming down. Other side was the same way and it broke down years ago.
191 Been fighting Ground hogs for years. Take care of them and new ones move in almost every year. They now are getting their final eviction notice! LOL
192 Lumber is all down and now to sort/save anything that I'll use.
193 Lots better!
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195 Borrowed my neighbors skid steer and move the dirt. Packed about every 6 inches and I had dug were the groundhog tunnels were with the backhoe. Nice and tight now.
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197 Going to put pressure treated wood on the wood walls. It'll serve as protection and a grade line for the floor as well.
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200 This center post is real bad and will have to be replaced to the angle braces. More termite damage. basically a shell and not supporting anything.
201 Hollow on the inside.
202 Over the hump on the grass growing on the waterway. Always a fear that a gulley washer rain will come and ruin it.
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211 Gravel leveled out and to grade. You can see the PT boards attached to the walls now too.
212 You can see the new post is in as well.
213 One more pour done. 2 of 8.
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215 Drive in section ready to pour and I'm putting 1/2" rebar 16 on center in these.
216 Late December now so have to wait on the weather to be right. Want over 35 degrees and ground has to be dry as I have to get trucks to the backside of the barn. Tall order so it may be Spring till I get to do anymore floor, but I am ready at least.
217 On the other end now. Moved all the jack post into position.
218 This side will all be raised in stair step fashion. The worst post is 8 inches down and I have to take it up as one for fear of breaking something. I have 6 jack posts till it's all done.
219 Big jacks in place.
220 Post was so far off that foundation was clear!. I had even move it in a little here. I'll have to tear 12 ft of floor out as two section here were poured years ago. Less than 4 inches and has broken up.
221 This end had gone out 10 inches and pulling it back in here onto the new foundation.
222 Takes a while to dig these out by hand. 20 x 20 and at least 24 inches deep. I have to lift the post above grade as well. In this case it's getting replaced anyway but will block it once the Cocrete cures. I mix the concrete by hand.
223 Low will be around 34 degrees tonight so I used straw on it hoping to hold some heat in.
224 Next was to make the rest of the pull brackets. Had made 2 before and those work great to pull the middle back. Wind had racked the top of the barn out of plumb and need to get it back. Loops are 1 inch in diameter and beefy.
225 Welded angles on the top of these and they will be lag bolted into the crossbeams to stiffen it all up.
226 Angle ground 45 over half way through the 3/8" thick loops.
227 I then welded it with 2 passes for strength.
228 I stick welded these. I had the MIG set up for thin sheetmetal and didn't want to switch it over.
229 Stitch welded here and full weld on the backside.
230 Turned these out on the lathe. Inner thread is 5/8 coarse with 2" diameter outer and 1" inner.
231 I counter bore the posts with the 2 sizes and then a 5/8" through hole. This way they sit flush with the outside wall. I drilled 2 holes on the outer rim for screws.
232 This will keep the piece from spinning when tightening it up. Have to think of this stuff when doing it solo.
233 1/2" lag bolts in the other 3 holes and this is a visual of how it works. It won't pull that plug through the post!
234 Lower anchor is on an angle so I made some washers with the angle on it. This way the nuts can do their job and have even pressure.
235 Here's one installed. Heavy steel rods with 3/4" coarse threads on the end go through the footer wall which I drilled through. I used some scarp steel to spread the load on the concrete.
236 Lopes on the other end. Pouring all new floor over this as the floor height will be higher. They had a lot more slope than I want so this will even have a layer of gravel over it to bring the grade in right.
237 This is an earlier one I did. I use heavy cable puller to bring it back a click at a time. Wind rocks it around and you can keep slowly bring it back. When all correct I'll brace everything back. Probably leave the cables in unless they get in the way too much.
238 Earlier bracket at the topside. It did the job fine.
239 This post will have to be totally replaced and is basically completely toast from Termites. Had a board scabbed on the side that covered up how bad it really was.
240 Putting in jack posts all around as it will have to be "floating" to get the new one in.
241 Ended up having 7 jacking points for extra safety and support.
242 They went clear to the top beam.
243 Floating now and the bottom is out.
244 New Pressure treat in and I'll brace and use metal plates to spread the load. Use big lag screws to attached and hold.
245 Glad that is in.
246 Here is a repaired bottom on another post.
247 Replaced this whole upright post as well and added a scabbed on header beam. I drilled through both beams and used 5/8" thread all to pull them together and angle iron plates at the upright posts to put the lift on the roof supports. There are temporary posts with jacks shown here till the new post was set in place.
248 Post in place on the new footer pads and everything is within an inch.
249 Just going to leave this tree post in place. A piece of wood is a piece of wood!
250 Pulling the outside line post back in and have to do several at once. Pulling the top in line at the same time.
251 Now I need to make some brackets to hold the roof rafters in place. These will be the middle of the rafter and like hurricane straps. Just heavier as I'm using 1/8" strap steel. Drilled the holes and putting a 90 degree twist in them using a monkey wrench.
252 Just put a mark on the vise and bend them all the same.
253 Quick and easy.
254 Needed just a few. LOL
255 On to the next.
256 Next is for the peak where the rafters come together for the 2 sides. They just nailed them but I want something stronger as the lumber is hard wood and breaks out with pounding. Using the surface grinder to cut the heavy angle.
257 Trace the angle for a pattern then blocked in the vise to hold it. Cutting several at once.
258 All cut and now I'll drill 2 holes per side for lag screws.
259 Next is where the rafter sets on the sill. These gave way as they basically depend on gravity to keep in place. Just a nailed on key and 2 nails per rafter. Fine if you don't have strong winds. LOL
260 I cut theses from 3/16" angle iron. As it's cutting. I'm drilling the holes with the drill presses.
261 All done and lots of them.
262 Drive in section is ready to pour and I'm putting 1/2" rebar 16" on center. Heavy equipment will be parked on this so I want it strong.
263 All done.
264 Getting there.
265 Here you can see some of the straps installed. Used the lift for most of it as I predrilled the holes. Wood is so tuff it'll twist the lags off if you don't predrill.
266 Next it to form up the rest of outside wall.
267 I cut the siding off so we can finish the concrete. I'm adding a pressure treated board on the bottom so I mark and cut accordingly.
268 I drill the existing footer wall and pound in some short rebar lengths to hold it in place.
269 Jacks in place to float this whole wall too.
270 Takes a while to form this up.
271 Drilled where the walls will join. The tubes have the cable attachment rods in them.
272 With that poured I can start working on filling the backside in. Doing away with the windows and doors on the backside.
273 Cut the siding and add the PT edge board. Installed some crossrails with more brackets.
274 Most of the rails are warped so I'm taking the time to cut them straight.
275 Windows filled in and siding renailed. Looking straighter.
276 Better pic.
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278 First door section filled in along with windows.
279 Pulled the other door and pulled all the nails. I'll cut them an nail it all back on.
280 This section of floor is too high and will have to come out. You can see my cut line between the posts. Floor has way to much slop and will be a lot higher. The footer posts are the new floor height as I'm going 6 inches thick. I'll break this up using a sledge hammer and chunk it out.
281 It varies in thickness from 2 1/2 inches to 6 inches. Most is around 4. I'll use this stuff where I can for filler. Mainly in the center sections where equipment won't be to bring the grade up.
282 Doesn't go too bad but is not light work.
283 This is about as much as I can use on this section with floor. I'll fill in the voids with fine gravel.
284 Here is the same section with gravel leveled to grade.
285 Cleaning out more now and have to get the tractors out so I have room.
286 I've never seen this shed cleaned out. LOL
287 We loaded Dad's old Massey to go elsewhere.
288 Long day but I got it all broke up and moved.
289 I'm getting a skid steer to pack it all down and dig some in the dirt center section to use up all the old floor for backfill.
290 Storing it out of the way for the moment and will carry it all in place later.
