For this project I decided to copy the original mirrors that came on the truck. Really a slick design as the same pieces can be reversed to be used on either side. They are also fully adjustable so that makes it nice as well. I knew I couldn't stamp the arms like original so the were turned on a lathe from bar stock. Heavier for sure but no lines from being halved either.
Album by Kevin Foust. Photos by Kevin Foust. 1 - 15 of 15 Total. 2403 Visits.
1 First up was the bracket that goes over the outer door hinge for attachment. I ground out a forming punch with the correct radii and cut the opposite side into an oak block. For small runs and bend like this oak will hold up for the process and cheap/easy to work with. Bent it out in the press.
2 The arm attachment wads cut out and bent on the bender I made. metal spacer was used to get the second bend and keep size at the same time as shown here.
3 I polished both of them out and made up some rivets to attach them. Top hole in the bracket was filed square. I then ground out round stock with a button head and square to self lock in there. Threaded the other end. Holding bracket that bolts to the doors hinge cover was cut,bent drilled and polished.
4 Pivot point was a little involved to do. I cut out a piece the right size, leaving it long and bent it into a U shape. Then got some hardened half rounds and tacked one onto a plate. The other I put on the top. I slid in the correct size round in the end. When I press it like this it creates the neck down like the original.
5 Ground the reliefs and polished it out and this is the finished piece.
6 Next was the arms. I drew a full scale pattern and cut an outline out in wood with a jigsaw. I didn't have a lathe at this time so I asked a friend, Harry Linebaugh, and he let me use his. I later bought the lathe from him when he upgraded. I free handed the taper and rounded ends. Filed it all close and sanded out. I ground flats on the ends and blend filed the ball effect you see in the top right corner. Fine mill files were used when close. One on the left still has the centers, yet to be cut off.
7 For the mirrors themselves I got some stainless ones at NAPA. Problem was all the guts(pivot ball, it's backer and washers were all mild steel. I tore them apart and made everything from stainless. Here is the pivot balls rounded backing washer being pressed into form.
8 This is the completed shouldered ball mounting stud on the mirror. I ground it all out.
9 Here you can see the hand filed ball effect a little better. Once you have it close, you cover the flat area with magic marker. With a steady hand file to the flats till it just touches. Sand out and polish. I drilled the holes in the arms and will use acorn nuts on the backside.
10 One completed and one to go.
11 Won't have to worry about anything rusting, pitting or shine flaking off. That is why I like working with this stuff. I buy most all my stainless at the scrapyard for $1.00/lb
12 Close up of pivot and you can see the simplicity. Great design they came up with.
