This is an album showing how things were made and assembled during the rough build of this truck. First off, I'm not a pro builder and worked on this project in my spare time. It took over 13 years and somewhere close to 3000 hours to do. I may be slow but I don't give up!
I got into working with stainless steel out of my frustration with chrome. Paying what it costs and having it last a short time were the main problems. In making copies of parts I can control the quality and it WILL last. I've always liked figuring out how to make things and most would be surprised about how some of the things were made. It's the end product that matters!
When I started the planning of this project I wanted to use all Dodge. My wish list was to have V8 power and upgraded axles to handle bigger tires. Power steering and brakes to stop the thing were important as well. I spent over 1 month taking measurements from over 12 different trucks, 8 Dodges, 3 Chevys and one Ford. My Goal was to have as little of the frame hanging down when looking from the side. I wanted to make it look like it was made to be together and not some cobbled afterthought.
As much as I didn't want to, a 1978 Chevy 1 ton was by FAR the clear cut winner. To me, it looks more factory than the original frame as all the curves and lines lend themselves to just plain working better.
In the future I'm going to do 2 more trucks and they will be basically stock. I have another 1941 WC 1/2 ton closed cab 4x4 and a 1961 WM300 Power Wagon waiting in the wings.
Album by Kevin Foust. Photos by Kevin Foust. 1 - 139 of 139 Total. 19348 Visits.
1 This is is the truck as it arrived. I got it from a military dealer in Colorado and had it drop shipped at a local loading dock, hauled it home from there. It did run and moved on it's own but had the normal "brakes need work" label. I'm checking out that roomy 3 man cab!
2 Amazing this thing is rust free but that brushed on paint job hides a lot of dents. Pretty complete but had a motor change out sometime in it's life. A lot of cobbled up stuff too and put it this way, I kept a fire extinguisher at the ready at ALL times when it was running.
3 I'm just glad I didn't have to haul this home from Colorado!
4 Here is the 1978 Chevy 1 ton that will be the frame and running gear. As stated earlier, I really wanted all Dodge but this thing fits so well. I got it from my former employer for the outrageous price of $20.00. He wanted $10.00 and all I had was a $20.00. When he started walking to the house I said just keep it!
5 It was special ordered with the heavy dutiest parts available at the time. Dana 60 front and corporate 14 bolt rear with 10 1/2 inch ring gear. Factory 4:56 gears and I drove this truck for years for them. This was my shop at the time. A bank barn with wood floor. Note the air conditioning(snow coming in the door)
6 Prior to finding the WC I started out with a 61 WM300. I didn't think I'd ever find a WC40 and as soon as I had the cab on I found the WC40 in Colorado. Put the WM all back together and it will be a future, stocker, project.
7 Me with a torch. This is when I decided I'd better build a shop to work in. I'd hang around hours making sure nothing was going to smolder up. While making the cab mounts, I must have put that cab on and off 50 times.
8 Took about a year of spare time and built this. It's 24' X 50' with 14' ceiling. 12' X 12' overhead door with concrete floor. MUCH better to say the least.
9 Cab on with front end blocked in place as well. Bed laying on blocks trying to get the positioning and gaps right. This takes forever as one change can effect a bunch of stuff.
10 I need to take 13 1/2 inches out of the center of the frame. This is exactly the amount of straight in the frame so it worked out perfectly.
11 Close up shows what I mean.
12 From here on, everything you see painted black I made from scratch. I took the rivets out of the rear cross member. ( Frame work and springs for how to) Made up a suitable, strong design for the pintle hook. I also made up the rear bumperettes from flat plate, copying the originals.
13 The rear bed frame was made from box tubing and the frame runners were sculpted from larger box tubing. Cut the long swooping curves with a sawzall and laid flat plate in. Heated to bend it and welded it back into a tube. All corners rounded and smoothed.
14 Put the bed back on for fitment check. I'm using 3/8" tread bright aluminum for the floor. Planning on new bedsides but these will serve as guides.
15 Six bolts with rubber isolators hold it in place. Getting the fit and gaps right is crucial at this time. It takes a long time to get everything right but it pays off on final assembly.
16 I debated on a wood floor but In decided against it. In picking a theme if you will, I thought the Tread Bright would go better and I'd use it in several places to tie it all together.
17 Up next is the front frame horns. I wanted to keep the Chevy hooks and add the Dodge hooks on the top as well. The bracket behind the hook is a front end mount for a large rubber washer. It would have to be changed to look right, Notice the frame end is rounded and the metal wraps around. I have to lengthen this and open it up as well.
18 I took the mount and sliced it just off the edge. then brought the other edge in and rewelded it to make it look like the rear one. You have to have these and they must be stout as it's the spring perch support. Looks better to me now.
19 From the front you can see the edge. Frame horns are next and notice their shape.
20 Bad pic but they are done here. I'm making my own bumper changing from the original C channel. I always thought it looked too small for the truck so I'll add some width to it.
21 You can see it a little better here. Double gussets running both ways and give a lot of meat to the hook mounts.
22 Top angle plates made and the act as strengthening points for the top hooks and bumper. Bumper will slide over both top and bottom brackets to make it look clean.
23 Bumper made and on. It was made from a rounded box beam, I V cut it and bent the ends in and welded/ground smooth. Ends were cut on 45's and inlaid with the rounded edge so it looks the same all the way around the edges.
24 Hard to show but you can see where the V cut was, I left that weld for proof!
25 Cab and fender mount brackets done. I borrowed from the original design but due to different frame the sizes had to change. The Cab mounts were made from a single piece of 3/16" steel like originals. Heated and bent on itself, then welded.
26 Beginning to take shape. The cab hood and front end gaps are very tricky on these. Lots of time and pulled hair on that part of this.
27 I'm happy with all the gaps and wheel placement. Looks odd now though with small tires on it.
28 Here is what makes the WC 40 so uncommon and easily identifiable. They, along with the WC 41 were the only closed cabs that came with all round, standardized gauges, No 1939 - 1947 2wd's or 1946 - 1968 Dodge Power Wagons had them. You can see here that I have centered the steering column to the gauges. No modifications were done to the cab for this either.
29 My door latch assemblies were real loose and you can see the gaps around the pin. I made up new shafts and installed them.
30 I actually ground them out using a surface grinder. They are nice and smooth now.
31 Starting on the bed next. I ordered new bedsides from Mack Products, 660-263-7444. I ordered them with no holes as the military beds are different from the 2wd's. They did the length,bottom 90 top 45 and round edge. I'd highly recommend them for your bed needs. I flattened an original center pocket and traced a pattern. Then bent a set up after cutting out.
32 Thinking ahead I finish painted the inside of the pocket as you can't get in there once attached.
33 I got 4 front pockets off of 2 different standard 2wd 1939 - 1947 Dodge trucks. the rears are always messed up it seems and can easily weld the holes shut on the fronts. I painted these inside as well. Militarys had a shelf , if you will, inside the pocket to hold thew bows up, That's the only difference between them and their 2wd cousins.
34 The bedsides arrived just before I was ready to go to work. I opened the well built crate and all looked fine as the tailgate and front panel were on top and I signed off. When I got home I took them out and both bedsides had been forked THROUGH the bottom and dented badly. I called the trucking company and couldn't get an answer.Later found out they went out of business. Feared the worse when I called Mack Products but they said it was their responsibility since they chose them, They sent new ones and picked up the old. THAT's what kind of a company they are and I give them my highest recommendation. Here I started the layout for the pocket holes.
35 I made up some guides to go on both sides of the pocket hole. I'll hold them in place with C clamps. once marked in the correct position. Military had a piece of the 45 bent metal bent down into the pockets where the standard truck did not. I wanted the detail so that is why I ordered them blank as opposed to trying to explain what I wanted.
36 Drilled a hole and roughed them in. Then I switched to a hand file and inked the patterns edges. If I hit ink on both sides patterns I knew it was straight and flush. Just worked my way around. I had drilled 2 upper corners to start the rounded edge. Touched up with a round file there.
37 Flap slot was a little over an 1/8 inch wide. I cheated and modified a hacksaw with multiple blades and did it all at once. End of slot was rounded with round file again.
38 I used a hardened block on the edge to serve as a guide and keep it straight. Yes, I cheat a lot!
39 Now to bend the tab nice and even. I clamped it down on the table first. I pushed the tab slightly down with a block of oak so I could get a set of Vise Grips with metal angled shoes to bend it evenly.
40 Then clamped a steel backer on the 45 and put 2 knife edged pieces on the tab held with a Vise Grip. Keeps it all straight and gives me more leverage as well.
41 Here is the finished hole with tab bent and it looks factory done after light sanding.
42 Here's a trick for you. I wanted the top rails round top and tailgate and front panel to be primed to protect from rust. I ran a rag on a string soaked with laquer thinner through several times, changing rags as I went.
43 I then taped the inner rolled edge to the metal to create a seal. I then put in another small rag for a plug on a string and pulled it down about 4 inches. I then filled it with rusty metal primer and slowly pulled it down. this gave a COMPLETELY even paint coat the whole way down. Just be sure to have a pan underneath when the plug pulls out. It takes a while for it to drip dry but it's worth it. Did this with all the panels.
44 I then primed and painted the areas where the pockets would be attached.
45 Ordered some stainless side rails that attach to the bedside via spot welding. I marked the holes and filed them all square for carriages.
46 I then spot welded the marked holes attaching the stainless to the mild steel bed.
47 Repolished them with a felt bob and we're good to go.
48 After having the bedsides on and marking the hole locations I needed to have the holes straight. Here is a trick to do that easily. Take a block of wood and drill it on a drill press making a truely 90 degree hole. I use oak but if you have a lot of hole you can use a hardened bushing and it will last forever when pounded in.
49 I held all the Tread Bright in place with clamps and once one hole was drilled I put a bolt in and tightened. Repeated till all of them were done.
50 After laying guide lines I mark where spot weld needed to go and sanded to clean.
51 To attach the pockets I drilled small holes in the pockets equally spaced. Transferred holes to bedside and cleaned the small area down to bare steel.
52 Then with wet rags everywhere I welded the pocket to the bedside one by one. Completely cooling each one quickly to avoid heat damage. They were then all ground/sanded flush.
53 Lots of holes to do and took a while. You cab see the spot weld points for the inner stainless angle here as well.
54 All of the pockets on.
55 On the tailgate hinge I'm Using Bob Drakes stainless versions for Fords. They are real similar but the pin diameter is slightly smaller than Dodge. Worked out great as I made up a poly sleeve and it is as smooth as silk now. a PVC pipe runs through the center to keep the sleeves from working in, they are basically trapped.
56 Once all the holes were drilled I remounted the bedsides and was ready to line up the tailgate. I slid some tapped round stock into the 45's round holes. Got to pieces of steel and welded a right and left hand nut on it. Used a standard turnbuckle so I could fine tune it to where I needed it.
57 Here is the tailgate hinge. There was a size variance as explained earlier and to clean that up I decided to make some angled contours. I drilled the correct size hole in a longer piece than need giving me something to hold onto(a tang). I started the cut by spinning it and cutting with a cut off wheel on the surface grinder, I stopped way before halfway. I then spun round the angle on and sand/polished it out. I then cut it off the rest of the way. This way the cut off wheel won't follow the wander down the angle as it's locked in.
58 The bedside part of the latch was next. One bend and mounting holes drilled. I filed those square to self lock and drilled 4 holes for pressing in poly guides. They are in a wedge and center the tailgate while shutting and there is no rattling that way.
59 I always liked the look of the rivets on these trucks and that is why I took the path of making them. I just think it looks better than a standard bolt.
60 Up next was the tailgate side of the latch. Grabbed some strap mild steel to work the bending out, This one has a 180 in it. I'm using the Compact Bender for this.
61 The completed bracket installed with flush head rivet bolts I made with acorns to lock down. All the bending was done without heat.
62 the hinge installed and notice the contour piece there.
63 This how I make the rivet headed bolts. I grind the rounded head and square while it is on a tang. Then cut it off and have a plate with a matching square filed in it. I then slide the bolt in and use a board to hold the head snugly in and clamp the plate tight. I can then thread it.
64 All together and fits nice.
65 I ground the upper side on the back to for a relief where the tailgate comes out. Originals were bent here but I like the smooth look on the outside.
66 Took my time on this to insure nice even gaps and smooth operation.
67 I like the look of the bed floor too. With everything painted it should be even better.
68 Military 4x4's did not have the Dodge name embossed on the tailgate like the 2wd trucks did.
69 I decided to make some bars to hold the tailgate when in the open position. I didn't want chains so I went with these. Threaded some bar stock and ground out eyes and drilled the holes.
70 Ground out U's for the other end and threaded the center bar section along with bending it.
71 the female threaded ends are recessed so it is not visible when together. It looks like it is one piece.
72 Just using bolts to hold them on.
73 Probably won't get used much but I wanted to make something in case.
74 All done and ready to get the fuel tank worked out.
75 The fuel tank I'm using was designed to lay on a thin, sheet metal floor. Floor here is 3/8" plus So I have to tilt it for the fittings to clear on the bottom. Angle planed some wood and wrapped it with sheet stainless.
76 Made up some tank mounting straps and spot welded the thread block on. It will be tightened down from underneath. I later changed to fittings with a 180 degree full sweep.
77 Mounted down. The battery will be installed next to the fuel tank.
78 I bought a Tread Bright storage box and chopped it down so it would be below the top edge of the rail. Nutzerts are used on the angles inside to make mounting it down a breeze. I was a close fit but I like the fuel tank here as opposed to underneath where it would be seen.
79 Snug as a bug in a rug!
80 Up next was some filler panels below the bedsides. I tried doing these myself and couldn't get the bends to match the bed. Tried a local shop and they did worse. Called Mack Products and they gladly did it from the plans I sent them, reasonable too! I'm doing the welding and smoothing here after final cuts were made.
81 Laid a thick copper flat under it to pull the heat out and prevent blow through. Ready for blending now.
82 Here it is all smoothed out and looks press formed. I changed the design on these from what Dodge did. they used 2 pieces in the front and none in the rear. Made it look unfinished to me and this will clean it all up in my opinion.
83 Will repeat the same process on the bottom and other pieces.
84 Up next were the running board brackets. Do to the differences I couldn't use any of the stock ones I had so I had to make them. They would all be different and it was crucial not to have anything hanging down when looking at the side of the truck. Made patterns in cardboard and started cutting them out with the plasma.
85 I'd tack them together and slowly bend and tack the curves till it was a channel. Weld the inside for strength and box it with an inside piece.
86 Here it is all tacked together on the outside. I welded them all up and rounded and smoothed all the curves and corners. Drilled the holes and access holes to tighten them.
87 Here they all are completed in bare steel.
88 Underside view with running board on. I used Nutzerts in some places to keep everything easy to assemble and smooth looking. Black poly will replace the wood in final assembly.
89 Where the running boards meet the rear fenders I used some of the rubber gaskets that were originally put on the front fenders where they go against the cab. Gives it a nice finished look.
90 The Tread Bright running boards were bent and welded by LMI welding. I gave them a set of plans and they did a beautiful job on them. I'd highly recommend them.
91 Here you can see how nothing shows from the side of the truck, Mission accomplished.
92 I wanted to sculpt the one of the frame cross members for clearance. For the drive shaft and the exhaust pipes so they wouldn't hang down so far. i started in the center for the drive shaft. I cut it out with a Sawzall and bent a piece of flat top lay in and weld.
93 Before welding in in I welded nuts on the inside for the drive shaft safety loop. I then welded it up and smoothed it out. Next was the exhaust scallops.
94 i cheated on these and used a large hole saw. Did the same as the center in finishing them.
95 Here is the rear disc brakes in place along with the brake line run. You can see how I hid the transfer from hard line to flex line. I later changed axle mounts to nuts up when I bent the stainless U bolts.
96 I'm running a hydroboost brake system and will use a proportioning valve for these rear discs.
97 You can see the exhaust passing through the scallop here. band clamps are used to hold exhaust together and can be taken off quickly and reused.
98 Made up the driveshaft loop and polished it out. You can also see the CV rear driveshaft. I reindexed the rear end and tilted it up CV takes care of the phasing problem. I'm running a Detriot locker with 4:56 gears.
99 Here's a better view of the driveshaft with 1350 U joints everywhere.
100 View from the back of the truck. Vent and brake line coming down to axle.
101 Master cylinder is off a late model 1 ton Chevy as it is a big bore made for double discs. I'm going to smooth and polish it out as well.
102 I hate polishing aluminum as to me it's harder to do than stainless. Maybe I don't know the tricks but I avoid it at all costs.
103 Here it is all done. Bending the stainless lines and install is next.
104 Started by plumbing the power steering up using high pressure braided lines. You can also see I've run the stainless shaft with isolator for the steering column. Shaft passes through inner fender.
105 Bent the brake lines up and used gravel guard around them before putting ends on. Starting on the high pressure lines for the hydroboost here.
106 Here it is all completed. Proportioning valve is barely visible on the firewall. red bracket is from Chevy for extra strengthening. I was modified to look better.
107 Decided to make my own steering column. I used the Chevy center slip shaft and bearings. I'm covering it with stainless tube. Here is how I center the bell to the smaller tube. Set screws make it adjustable and lock it in place.
108 Close up of the column mount that centers column to gauges. Original was offset. No new holes in the dash were drilled to do this.
109 The bell is actually a Megaphone exhaust tip. Hey, I can cheat!
110 I'm using a stainless banjo style steering wheel.
111 I think it fits well with the truck.
112 I had to do something with the seats. The originals put me too close to the top of the cab as I'm 6'6". the original seat base is angled so it makes it hard to make ANYTHING look right. I decided to take it out and start from scratch.
113 Took a DA over it and found all the spot welds, Used a Die grinder with a drum style carbide burr and removed just at the spot weld, not digging into the lower metal. Used a thick knife and split if off. It can easily be put back in in minutes with little MIG spots welds.
114 With the base out you have a nice flat surface to work from. You can see there was no damage to the floor.
115 Close up shows how basically no metal was removed from the floor. Just ground the spot welds flush.
116 Close up of the retained back rail. it will make a nice catchall back there.
117 I found mid 90's Ford ext cab Ranger split bench is the perfect fit for me and the cab. They are flat on the bottom like the floor so 2 sections of box tubing spaces it perfectly. had to drill some holes in the floor and using Nutzerts in the tubing to mount seats.
118 Here is the ranger split bench. Comfy to sit in and I like it a lot. I'll have the top rounded when the seats are recovered.
119 Camera really dying! this shows the front corner of the seat base in the process of being rounded. I'm using small square tubing for supports and wrapping it all with 1/8 inch strap.
120 Here is the small box tubing bent and tacked in place. This will make a real sturdy piece.
121 Here is the set up of dies to bend the small square tubing. It does it without any kinks and a smooth outer surface to the curve.
122 Bending it around and this is as small as I can go so it will set the pace for the curve diameter.
123 Close up of bend.
124 The base ready for the wrap. It comes out in 2 sections.
125 The surround here is welded to the small double box tubing.I tucked it under the original back lip as it was the right height.
126 Joint for the 2 sections is in the middle. When I add the console in the center it will hide the joint. I'm planning on keeping the same style of edging on it as well.
127 Close up of the Nutzert and surround welded and ground flush for tread bright to lay on top of. The surround sticks up just enough the the tread bright will lay in there flush.
128 Next was the console top. Cut out a stainless plate and the console will have a Megashifter, transfer case lever and Tach in it. I used a hole saw for the transfer case slide length, I'll now saw straight lines to each circle.
129 As you can tell my camera was slowly dying. I lost several rolls of film beyond these but I'll use what I can here. For the tach mount I wanted it canted so I turned a large round out to set it in.I then cut it at and angle.
130 Drilled and tapped it and polished it all out.
131 Nice even bends and will probably cover it with some type of fabric.
132 I'm using tread bright for the seat base top. It'll screw down to the base tubing via Nutzerts.
133 Here is the lockable storage compartment. Good bit of space under there.
134 Seat test fit and works fine.
135 Made the console with box tubing as well.
136 Here is the seat clear back
137 Here it is clear forward and you can see the LOADS of adjustment here.
138 When it's clear forward, accessing the back of the cab is easy and it reveals the locked storage compartment.
139 Close up of the rounded edge and how seat fits to it.
