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A 22-Year-Old Interview With Günter Blüm
In Watch of the Week, we invite HODINKEE staffers and friends to explain why they love a certain watch. This week's columnist is our friend Caitlin Thompson, the publisher of Racquet, a tennis-focused media company with a flagship quarterly pas cher Zenith print magazine. Just in time for the second week of Wimbledon, she's written up the story of her grandmother's vintage Helbros wristwatch.The Royal Oak Grand Complication is no longer the king of the hill at AP. That title has been eclipsed (by a large margin) with the introduction of the RD#4 Supercomplication. But there's just something so magnetic about a Royal Oak.Lot 37 is a Cartier New York Tank dating to 1929, originally owned by Clarence Douglas Dillon, a member of a prominent New York family who served as Ambassador to France under President Eisenhower and Secretary of the Treasury for Presidents Kennedy and Johnson. That provenance is great but its current owner is no slouch either – TikTok's Mike Nouveau. Unearthing the watch and story, check out Nouveau's video here.
The TTSD is technically the same as its all-steel predecessor, using Rolex's modern calibre 3235. This movement offers enhanced protection against magnetic interference, a Parachrom hairspring, a Chronergy escapement, and a power reserve of 70 hours. It's a perfect example of how Rolex makes improvements that most people replika Vacheron Constantin never hear about or understand but that make the watches better in real, tangible ways.For those not wishing to read any further, the answer to that question is a resounding yes. If you've got the coin and want that heady dream-like Doxa buzz, the SUB 300 has it in spades, and the brand has managed to make a few small tweaks go a very long way in making the 2020 SUB 300 stand on its own.While it would've made a difference when these watches were originally purchased, nowadays, the chronometer (5512) vs. non-chronometer (5513) doesn't mean as much. As a matter of taste, some collectors might like the idea of a chronometer more, while others might prefer the minimal two lines of text on a 5513 dial. (I'm mostly the latter – don't get mad at me, chronometer heads.)
Things are just warming up at the Geneva Auctions. Stay tuned for lots more live coverage as the sales unfold. Up next is the replica Piaget hotly anticipated Heuer Parade, presented by Phillips and we'll be there live in the room to bring you all the news.Brand: Weiss and Birdwell Beach BritchesModel: "Birdie" Surf WatchDiameter: 42mmThickness: 12.8mmCase Material: Stainless steelDial Color: White or red with "Birdie" motifIndexes: Arabic numeralsWater Resistance: 100 metersStrap/Bracelet: Striped nylon NATO strapThe construction though is a little unusual as far as watch bracelets go. It's what I would call a fully integrated bracelet, despite technically being removable, because it fits to the watch with two special end links that essentially act as extensions of the case itself rather than as traditional bracelet links. They do not fully articulate, instead sticking at a particular angle from the side of the case with very little play. Here you can really see what I mean:Caliber: In-House Caliber 2964Functions: Hours and minutesDiameter: 29.5mmPower Reserve: 72 hoursWinding: Hand-woundFrequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)Jewels: 17Total Components: 207Additional Details: Flying tourbillon set with 19 brilliant-cut diamonds
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Date(s): April 15, 2025. Album by Honoria Carlyd. 0 Total. 0 Visits. |
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