1 This is a beautiful antique cloisonné enamel sterling brooch. It is marked 925s and has the hallmark used by David Andersen from 1888-1930. It measures 2.5 inches by just under 1/2 inch.
3 Fahrner Art Nouveau silver plated stamped brass enameled brooch c. 1910. Unsigned, but attributed to Hermann Haussler. Similar pieces are illustrated in the Fahrner book page 99.
4 Fahrner Art Nouveau silver plated stamped brass enameled brooch c. 1910. Unsigned, but attributed to Hermann Haussler. Similar pieces are illustrated in the Fahrner book, page 99.
5 Cloisonné Enameled Link Bracelet Austria, circa 1935
Blue, green and red enameled copper, carré-cut glass paste stones imitating jade and carnelian, rhinestones, length 6 3/4 inches, Signed Made in Austria.
6 Two cloisonné enamel bracelets with the links strung through gilt ribbon and with an ingenious adjustable snap clasp. Signed Barboteaux, circa 1930s.
Cloisonné is a form of enameling in which cells, or cloisons, are created by wire to form a design, and then filled in with wet-packed enamel.
7 Fahrner matte enamel oriental style pendant with chain circa 1927. Silver, gilded, soldered with corded wires (flowers and waves), turquoise matte enamel, amethyst center stone with inset coral beads, coarse grain forming hexagonal outline of pendant. Matte enamel links with small metal squares inset with coral. Stamped Sterling Germany.
8 Close-up of the pendant.
9 Plique-à-jour bracelet in the form of stylized butterflies. Sterling, chrysoprase, onyx, enamel, marcasites. Butterfly wings are plique enamel in green, white and purple. This is a good example of plique-à-jour enamel shading within a cell.
Plique-à-jour is a type of enameling in which cells are filled with wet-packed enamel and then fired on mica or some other substance to which the enamel won't adhere. It differs from cloisonné enamel in that it doesn't have a metal backing, thus the fired enamel lets light shine through and creates a stained-glass effect.
10 Portrait of an infant--I think it is a girl--enamel on porcelain, 18 K gold, and rose-cut diamonds. C late 1800s. The porcelain base has had a lacquer coating to protect the painting. This is undoubtedly original. The painting is set in a silver frame on an 18K gold base and surrounded by 35 rose cut diamonds. The pin is original but I believe the clasp is a later replacement.
11 Brooch of an enamel painting of a King Charles spaniel standing on a colorful blue rug, mounted in 14k, circa 1860.
12 French bangle circa 1870. 18kt gold with a central plaque of two young lovers, handpainted enamel on ivory. There is amazing cutwork in a number of levels, four pearls and taille d'épargne enameling in elaborate patterns.
13 Taille d'épargne enameling on the bangle. This type of enameling was popular in Victorian times, in which black enamel was used to fill patterns incised against a background of gold onto which a repeated pattern had been engraved.
14 Asian man fur clip with gorgeous enamel kimono. Signed Nettie Rosenstein and Sterling.
15 Angelfish Lunch at the Ritz
Superb contemporary enameling; with dangles: 3 1/2" x 5"
16 Early Mazer floral enamel pin with topaz rhinestones. Signed Mazer and with the number 22.
17 Czech bracelet
Glorious bracelet over 2 inches wide with multi-colored glass cabs and painted enamel metal flowers. Very interesting pin clasp. Marked CZECHOSLOVAKIA
18 Czech jewelry
Red pin not marked. Pink enamel pin and earrings all marked CZECHO.
19 Mid-60s necklace in brass with an enamel strawberry by Roger Scemama. See similar necklaces in Moro, pg 63.
20 Reja peanuts. Potmetal and enamel.
21 Reja scallions. Pot metal and enamel.
22 HAR fruits and vegetables.
23 DeRosa floral enamel fur clip.
24 Lovely American enamel and sterling pin. The scan does not show the true colors and iridescence.
25 Mechanical Boucher Punchinello whose arms and legs go up and down when the chain is pulled. Boucher did a series of mechanical pieces, including a Cambodian (arms and legs go up and down), a pelican (mouth opens and there is a fish), and a jester whose head moves back and forth (see next picture).
26 Boucher jester with head that moves left and right, now owned by Nancy G.
27 Black enamel and sterling necklace, bracelet and earrings by Los Ballesteros.
28 Top bracelet is blue baisse taille enamel and sterling designed by Margot de Taxco. Middle bracelet is baisse taille enamel and sterling with a fish motif (anonymous Taxco designer). Bottom bracelet is heavy sterling and unsigned.
29 Parure by André Bazot -- bright green glass "cookies" melted onto metal. Wonderful set to wear!
30 André Bazot necklace in shades of green. Signed. Found by René Colon.
31 André Bazot enamel bracelet and earrings.
32 André Bazot enamel cuff bracelet and necklace of blue glass cookies. Chain is probably not original.
33 Closer view of the necklace.
34 In 1938, Jean Schlumberger created the "circus" collection for Elsa Schiaparelli. This unsigned clown fur clip has been attributed to that collection. See Cera, Jewels of Fantasy, pg 235 for a similar 2-part clown.
35 An unsigned fur clip attributed to Max Boinet for Schiaparelli (told to Ginger Moro by Jeanne Péral). A 5-layer clip in teal green enamel offset with shocking pink enamel, pink and navy colored fantasy birds with pearls, and ruby red & yellow glass stones. A version of this clip may be seen in Moro, European Designer Jewelry, pg 84. Clip is 5 inches long.
36 Du Jay fabulous enamel floral basket with fruit salad stones, multi-colored glass balls, tiny rhinestones, ruby-colored, channel set base.
37 Du Jay enamel fish and frog pins mounted on oval "sea" glass. Center cab on fish is a gorgeous multi-tone glass. Note style of small flowers--again typical of Du Jay pieces.
38 Du Jay bird with pearls (white and gray tones). Wonderful enamel and pave work. Typical branch ending.
39 Du Jay floral enamel initial pins. The tiny rhinestone flowers are very similar to other pieces shown in the album.
40 Du Jay plique-à-jour fur clips--white and black face. Slightly different treatment of the cut-outs.
42 Reja Gardenesque series showing the variety of pins that were available. There are others that I haven't managed to collect, including a willow tree. Earrings are very hard to find. The pieces came in sterling without the goldwash or goldwashed. The pins and earrings in the bottom row may not be from Gardenesque, but have similar vases.
43 Deja enamel flowers on potmetal plus one Reja.
44 Reja enameled fish with pearls on his tail.
45 A wonderful charm bracelet of enameled hearts.
46 Haskell didn't use enamel too often in her designs, but this is one of her best. A-level necklace from the Autumn collection, 1930s with flattened glass beads, gilt metal floral findings and hand-painted enameled leaves. Unsigned.
47 One of the bubble necklace series, in teal, yellow and lavender enamel. Marked Sterling. No one has identified the designer of this series, but it came in many colors.
48 Close-up of the bubbles.
49 Fahrner necklace and pendant in shades of brown.
50 German matte enamel and silver gilt bracelet, probably Kollmar & Jourdan, from the 1930s.
51 Sterling pendant with enamel in peacock shades.
52 A group of Niello from the Victorian era -- a long chain with niello links and clasp, a corss, a St Andrews brooch and a watch chain. The watch chain is made of a combination of gold and niello silver links and a niello clasp and fob hook.
53 Close-up of the niello.
54 Czech necklace of blue glass and enameled floral accents.
55 CoroCraft Sterling enamel frog on lily pad.
56 CoroCraft Sterling enameled toucan.
57 Two versions of the CoroCraft Sterling willet -- the heads are on springs and tremble. This came in 3 color combinations and the toucan in the prior picture did also.
58 Enameled blackamoor boy riding a turtle. This pin is gold wash over sterling and marked HC in a diamond. A wonderful whimsical piece, most likely from the 1940s!