1 How it all goes together, this is a TLS fork, but other than length they are the same.
2 Left to right, fork seal driver Race Tech $69.00, Fork Spring Compressor Traxxion Dymamics $36.00, Damper Rod Tool Traxxion Dynamics $10.00. You also need a 30 mm wrench/socket, a 17 mm and 18 mm wrench. Also if you are revalving you need a cartridge holder is it detailed in pictures 30-35
3 Race Tech Fork Tool
4 Hyabusa Fork in Race Tech Tool
5 Strip the bike's body work, remove the front wheel as described in the Service Manual
6 Loosen the upper triple clamp bolts
7 Loosen the fork cap, then the lower triple clamp bolts
Back out the rebound adjuster (Count the clicks)
And the preload adjuster, note where you were when you started
8 Remove the forks, unscrew the cap and the outer tube will slide down so you can use the fork spring compressor on it. "It's a 30mm socket to get ..." View Comments...
9 The spring compressor will fit in the holes drilled in the spacer
10 This is the manual spring compressor and the cap is ready to be unscrewed.
11 Here is the nut you need a 17 mm for the nut and a 30 mm for the cap
12 It has 11 ft-lbs of torque so don't get rough with it.
13 You get the idea
14 Remove the cap after loosening in the previous steps
15 This is the rebound adjuster rod, it could fall out, I always pull it out at this point and set it aside.
16 Here I am installing the Traxxion Dynamics Damping Rod tool that makes it easier to pump it when emptying the fork, however you can use a piece of hose.
17 Loosen spring compressor and remove the spacer
18 Dump the oil and spring into the oil pan. Pump the cartridge several times to get the old oil out. Look for chunks and stuff, what you should see is sort of a fine silver particle stream or two in the oil. Not any chunks. If you are only changing oil go to picture 53.
19 If you are changing seals, continue on. Slide the dust seal down the fork leg.
20 Pop the retaining clip loose
21 Using the fork leg as a slide hammer "smack" the forks apart
22 Left to right, oil seal, washer, upper tube bushing, lower tube bushing. Remove all the old stuff if you are changing seals.
23 Put a baggie or tape or something over the knife edge of the bushing. and slide the dust seal, then oil seal on
24 It can be tough, be gentle and do not tear your seals
25 This is the side to have up on the oil seal, up is the direction towards the top of the fork as installed on the bike
26 Bottom looking up
27 Here is all the stuff ready to go back in, left to right, dust cover, clip, oil seal flat side down, washer, outer tube bushing and inner tube bushing
28 Slide it all in and push the oil seal in a little
29 This is a Race Tech seal driver (43 mm) it goes around the fork.
30 Then you grip it good
31 And drive the thing in, then install the clip and ensure it is seated in the groove, you might have to tap the seal some more. Then slide the dust cover down. Then go to picture 53.
32 Here is the 10mm hex head to remove it all, torqued to 29 ft-lbs/
33 If you can, get a buddy to hold it with the copper tube, it is a little tough to do both, but you can.
34 Cartrige and fork
35 Here are cartridges
36 To revalve you need to get the compression stack out. This requires a way to hold the cartridge and an 18 mm wrench. Finally got a reason to have one, huh? Note that a propane torch to heat this a bit will make it much easier to get past the loctite the KYB Factory folks put in there. If you are worried about applying heat, you can smack it directly on the end, then tap around it carefully and crack the loctite. As with heat, tap in moderation to prevent damaging the cartridge.
37 You need to heat it a touch first, as Suzuki uses a tough yellow loctite. Be careful not to catch it on fire, ie clean before you heat, it is full of oil
I use a propane torch, heats quickly, aluminum transmits heat nicely. You don't want to melt it or make anything glow, just get it hot so the loctite will let go. If you are worried about applying heat, you can smack it directly on the end, then tap around it carefully and crack the loctite. As with heat, tap in moderation to prevent damaging the cartridge.
38 Here is the compression valving.
39 Stock compression valving
40 Stock rebound valving
41 Cartridge without valving
42 Top of cartridge where tool goes, also if you want to mess with rebound damping you must remove the top of the cartridge, and that is done like the bottom only you need a really good tool, the top will shatter, ask me how I know!
43 Fits nice
44 Now to remove the cartridge for revalving and such you need a tool. Here is the suzuki tool ($110.00!)
45 But it is expensive
46 First time I made my own, $1.50 worth of copper and a screw driver
47 Here is how I made mine "what's the tube ex diamete..." "it's ok, 1 " pipe, ju..." View Comments...
48 Sweet and it still works, but it can slip a little, a bit more care in getting the edges square would have helped. It is 1" pipe
49 Bottoming piston cone mod, 1/16 in hole 3 mm from the bottom. This will dampen the blow from big bumps and landing wheelies.
Mod at your own risk.
50 A drill press is better, but I did mine with a handheld drill.
51 Make sure you smooth both sides.
52 Get the nut off, you need need to file down the peened portion and then follow the instructions in the valving kit.
53 After the cartridge is back in and the seals are installed, fully compress the fork leg and add oil, I usually add 430 ml and then measure. Pump the damper rod, 10 to 12 times and then the level should be 97 mm (3.7 in) for a TLR and 100 mm (3.9 in) or so for a TLS. I use a screw driver with a wire tie on it to measure mine, this isn't rocket science.
54 Assembly details. When you get everything finished, install is the reverse of disassembly. This is the only critical part of the assembly. This is the damper rod on the cartridge the rebound valving rides on. The rod you removed at the start should go in now.
55 Before you install the cap, install the spring and spacer. Then set the distance from the top of the damper rod to the top of the nut at 10 mm or .43 in. This ensures the rebound rods are at the same height and then the adjustments should be the same on both legs.
56 If you look at the 2 triangles I indicated on the photo. The spacer is sized such that the distance between the 2 triangles is free length of the spring minus 15 mm with the pre-load adjuster all the way out. This way you have some pre-load without any adjustment. Note that if you replace the spring you will need to measure this distance and replace the spacer if the spring is shorter or shorten the spacer if the spring is longer.
57 Fork Cap Guts, preload adjuster, the retainer ring and the upper part of the rebound adjuster
58 Fork cap, preload adjuster, retainer ring, lower part of rebound adjuster
59 Upper part of rebound adjuster, pin for lower part, and spring that holds in ball that makes it all go "click"
60 Lower part of rebound adjuster and close up of pin
61 Another shot showing cap, preload adjsuter and upper part of rebound adjuster
62 This is my fork oil level tool, simple but you have to pour out oil if you have too much.
63 Oldndumb's budget fork spring compressor for use with ratchet strap.
64 Here is the manual fork spring compressor being used with a ratchet strap. Courtesy of Oldndumb's photo archive.
65 The amazingly simple and useful set of fork tools built by Oldndumb. Nice work sir.