Cow: NATIVE AMERICAN INDIAN JEWELRY

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Cow: NATIVE AMERICAN INDIAN JEWELRY

Native American jewelry is in a category by itself. It is something people either like or dislike. It can also vary by materials and tribes. The Navajo, Zuni, and Hopi people usually work with silver, turquoise, and other stones. The Pacific Northwest Indians do beautiful etched silver pieces and scrimshaw pieces. Some of the other tribes do exquisite beadwork and quillwork. This is not to say that other tribes do not do this work, also.

Before the Southwest decorating era became popular, most jewelry was not signed. In fact, it was not made for resale. Artistic tribe members would make pieces for themselves and family. However, times got hard and they found that they could pawn their jewelry at the nearest trading post for food staples for themselves and their animals. Many of these items were never redeemed and the tourists discovered them. Once the Indians found out that they could make more money from the tourists, they started signing their pieces. Also, the United States government stepped in, when commercial manufacturers started making imitations, and passed a law to stop these companies from capitalizing on Native American Indian products.

It is very hard to date this type of jewelry. Usually, if it is signed, it was made after 1960. Navajo jewelry is usually chunkier, larger stones. Often Zuni jewelry is inlaid and they also took pride in matching stones in a piece. The Hopi are famous for silver overlay. However, none of this is cut in stone! There are a lot of marriages that have taken place between these tribes. Therefore, it is not unusual to see something that is common in one tribe being made by someone of a different tribe. The Zuni like to sign their jewelry with an engraving pencil. That is very easy for an unscrupulous person to copy. There have also been unscrupulous tribe members. The initials LMB are ones to beware of today. In genuine handmade jewelry, the silver is usually heavier. Today's copies are lightweight.

Today, there is a trend towards more contemporary jewelry. Precious, semi-precious, and lab created stones are often used, as is 14k gold. Traditional designs are now being combined with modern designs. For those who have never liked Native American Indian jewelry, you might want to look again. Begay and Yazzie are a couple of good search names.

Contributed by Nancy Cox

***Native American Hallmarks***

Date(s): March 21, 2008. Album by Jewelry Ring. 1 - 114 of 114 Total. 27881 Visits.

1 Older Navajo Turquoise, Coral, & Oyster Cuff Bracelet Compliments of Cheri Van Hoover Milky Way Jewels Please read Cheri Van Hoover's article about Northwest Coast Indian jewelry she did for our JR "Focus on Design" series Pacific Northwest Coast Indian Jewelry	2 Fred Harvey Era Zuni Turquoise & Sterling Bracelet Courtesy of Cheri Van Hoover Cheri Says: "Yes, they were souvenir pieces. Fred Harvey was the concessionaire with the hotels/restaurants/ gift shops along the railroad lines through the Southwest. He sold sheet silver to the local Native Americans for their use in this characteristic tourist jewelry and marketed the items they produced in his shops. He was considered a pioneer in "cultural tourism." Jewelry considered "Fred Harvey Era" was mostly produced from the 1930s through the 1950s. Here's the Wikipedia article about him and his empire: Fred Harvey	3 Wayne & Josie Panteah Zuni Sterling Man's Ring Marked W.J. PANTEAH Courtesy of Cheri Van Hoover Cheri says: "Turquoise is a very soft stone, so it is frequently treated in one way or another to preserve its color and/or prevent it from cracking or crumbling. It comes in a variety of grades. This article talks about the various grades and explains why it is treated: Turquoise Article and this one explains how it is done: Another Turquoise Article
4 Paul Jones Navajo Sterling & Turquoise Bracelet Marked P. JONES STERLING. Courtesy of Cheri Van Hoover	5 Zuni Inlaid Opal Sterling Butterfly Pin - Signed EE and Zuni Courtesy of Cheri Van Hoover	6 Native American Silver & Turquoise Bracelet Compliments of Cheri Van Hoover
7 This is one of the two bracelets Cheri wears every day. Cheri says: "The first bracelet is Northwest Coast, by a young carver. I'm looking all over the house for my documentation on this piece, and can't find it right now... That has his full name and tribal affiliation. .. I bought it at the gift shop at the Royal BC Museum, in Victoria, British Columbia. The images are of an eagle and a salmon. This is a special bracelet for me because the salmon spawn here on my property, and bald eagles fly overhead. A major theme of Northwest Coast art is transformation - in this case the transformation is water to sky, predator to prey to predator. Eternal cycles and circles... Unlike Southwest Native American art, Northwest Coast art usually depicts clan affiliations and tells very specific stories." Courtesy of Cheri Van Hoover	8 "This Northwest Coast brooch was a gift from my mother about 20 years ago. It is by an artist named Pat Seaweed. I'm not 100% certain, but I believe Seaweed may be a woman. If so, she is one the very few women who carve. Seaweed is Kwakiutl. The creature shown here is an orca, or killer whale." Courtesy of Cheri Van Hoover	9 Cluster Bracelet This large unsigned bracelet is Navajo and looks like a Begay piece. However, this style was the "in" style at one time so it may not be. Compliments of Nancy Cox Pegasus Treasures
10 Coral Bracelet Unsigned coral bracelet. I believe it is Navajo. Courtesy of Nancy Cox	11 Coral Ring to match the Bracelet Courtesy of Nancy Cox	12 Zuni Flower Pin/Pendant Notice the perfectly matched color of the stones and leaves. The leaves are carved. I purchased this in Farmington, NM about 15 years ago. Courtesy of Nancy Cox
13 Zuni Cluster Bracelet This bracelet is typical of the Zuni work in the '70's. I have rings and earrings made in the same style. Their stones are always so well matched. Courtesy of Nancy Cox	14 Inlaid Silver Horse Pin This pin is signed EE for Etta Endito, Navajo. She has had many pieces displayed in galleries and museums. Courtesy of Nancy Cox	15 Zuni Squash Blossom Necklace This is one of the prettiest squash blossom necklaces I have ever seen. It is large but not so large that it distracts from anything else I'm wearing. Courtesy of Nancy Cox
16 Zuni Inlaid Pendant This is a nice example of the Zuni inlay work. It is an older piece and has no signature. Courtesy of Nancy Cox	17 Silver Squash Blossom A very old silver squash blossom necklace. It is unsigned and was black when I discovered it. I wear this one quite often. I am quite sure it is Navajo Courtesy of Nancy Cox	18 Beaded Barrettes I have quite a few beaded barrettes made by various tribes. The Lakota Sioux have done beadwork for years but it is now becoming popular with the other tribes, also. Courtesy of Nancy Cox
19 Four NA pieces. I wondered about the white stones. The top right bracelet is Spiderweb turquoise. Compliments of Bobye Syverson The Enchanted Castle Cheri Van Hoover says: "Natural turquoise has a visible "matrix". This is considered extremely desirable, and sometimes the pattern of the matrix material gives the turquoise its particular name, like "spiderweb turquoise." This excellent article shows a beautiful picture of a nugget of raw spider web turquoise: Turquoise Article	20 All my rings. My husband gave me the one with the Jasper stone before we were married. Courtesy of Bobye Syverson Nancy Cox says: "I think the white stones may be agate. A very interesting combination."	21 The Naja is 6" across. The stones are all different colors. Courtesy of Bobye Syverson
22 Bought in Phoenix April 1952. It was a "Trading Post" type store. Courtesy of Bobye Syverson	23 Wonderful NA Bracelet with turquoise and coral. Compliments of Karen Kavan Ocean Bay Jewels Nancy Cox says: "I believe your bracelet is Navajo. There are a lot of JN marks and most have the last name of Nelson. The signing of NA jewelry has only been popular for about the last 20 years. Most pieces were made for family members and not signed. Now, they are all signing their pieces. That is both good and bad. However, there are only a few books out on marks, the most useful being Hallmarks of the Southwest and Hopi Silver. Hopefully, in time, more marks will be recognized."	24 Picture of the signature
25 I bought this from a Zuni Native in the four corners area 20 years ago.Slepping Beauty Narural Turq. Nugget necklace with sleepy beauty Heishi Beads(this is the true color not dyed) Compliments of Bob Brown Brown's Jewelry & Collectibles	26 Close-up of the Sleepy Beauty Turqouise Nuggets	27 Navajo Old Pawn Squash Blossom Necklace. This would be a man's Necklace Courtesy of Bob Brown
28 Close up of the Naja. Courtesy of Bob Brown	29 Beautiful Sterling NA Bracelet Compliments of Diana Craig Sparks Bonnie & Clyde's Treasure Trove	30 Sterling and Turquoise NA Ring Courtesy of Diana Craig Sparks
31 NA marked Nickel Silver and Genuine Turquoise Bracelet Courtesy of Diana Craig Sparks Cheri Van Hoover says: "The nickel silver pieces are both in the Fred Harvey style. Nickel silver doesn't contain any actual silver - it is an alloy of copper and nickel, possibly with some other metals"	32 NA marked Nickel Silver and Turquoise Bracelet Courtesy of Diana Craig Sparks	33 I have had it for about 30 years and I bought it at a house sale which had a lot of old Native American artifacts. This is a beaded necklace and impossible to get a pic of the whole thing at once as it is very long. Unfortunately, it is also in bad shape with missing beads. I don't feel like it's a commercial piece. Any comments welcome. Compliments of the Dianne Lavenburg Collection Diane says: "I was just doing some web surfing and ran on to this site with an extensive collection of NA everything, including jewelry which I found quite informative. Furthermore, they offer free on-line informal appraisals as well as extensive insurance appraisals that you pay for. I'm not endorsing the site, just passing along info to anyone interested. Indian Territory
34 Old Pawn Sterling cuff Compliments of Sheri Weiss Boo Bears Baubles	35 NA Pettipoint Squash Blossom Necklace Courtesy of Sheri Weiss	36 The Signature
37 NA Turquoise and coral Squash Blossom Necklace Courtesy of Sheri Weiss	38 Spiney Lobster Sterling cuff Compliments of Sheri Weiss	39 Old Pawn Turquoise and Sterling Earrings Courtesy of Sheri Weiss
40 WP 12KGF Earrings Wilson Padilla, Navajo, a smith for New Mexico Jewelry. Mark first used in 1975 Compliments of Lilly Vittetow Lilly's Vintage Jewelry	41 Picture of the mark WP 12KGF	42 Silver Bear Claw bracelet Common design, could be anyone Courtesy of Lilly Vittetow
43 Copper Zuni Knife wing bracelet marked Copper in 2 places on the clasp. Courtesy of Lilly Vittetow	44 Roadrunner Pin and Eye Pin.. Possibly two pieces of Zuni jewelry. Compliments of the Sharon Gross Collection.. Nancy Cox Says: "I believe both of your pieces are Zuni.Notice the matching of stones in the eye pin. That is a good indication of Zuni craftmanship."	45 1930's Navajo Sterling Silver Jewelry - Cuff Bracelet with Arrowheads Compliments of Polly Curtiss
46 1940's Handmade Navajo Jewelry - Brooch in Sterling Silver with Stamped Design - Concha Pin Courtesy of Polly Curtiss	47 Signed Native American Turquoise Sterling Jewelry - Sand Cast Pendant - Larry Begay Courtesy of Polly Curtiss	48 Red beadwork necklace, 1999. From one of the Northwest peoples near Victoria, BC. Compliments of the Linda Jo Mitchell Collection
49 Four NA Rings Compliments of Sande Kattau KATTSLAIR	50 Silver Matrix Courtesy of Sande Kattau	51 Loloma Cuff Courtesy of Sande Kattau
52 Turquoise NA Earrings Courtesy of Sande Kattau	53 Dancer Ring Courtesy of Sande Kattau	54 Sterling Signed GM Pink Shell Earrings - purchased 15 years ago. Compliments of Georjean West ShopWest on eBay
55 Men's Sterling and Turquoise Ring Compliments of Georjean West	56 Santo Domingo Pueblo Sterling Heart Pin Compliments of Georjean West	57 Mark on Heart Pin Compliments of Georjean West
58 Zuni Malachite and Shell Sterling Earrings Marked FSN (15 years old) Compliments of Georjean West	59 Sterling Malachite Earrings Marked FY (15 to 20 years old) Compliments of Georjean West	60 Sterling Bracelet Marked Rp Note from Nancy Cox: Probably Rose Pincio, Zuni Compliments of Georjean West
61 Native American Sterling Rings Courtesy of Tracy Green Venus Vintage Jewelry	62 Pre-1930s Navajo Squash Blossom Necklace, Tufa-cast and Forged Ingot beads. Marked U.S.Navajo. Compliments of the Yen Motyka Collection	63 Close-up View
64 Navajo Sterling and Turquoise Squash Blossom Necklace Compliments of the Yen Motyka Collection	65 Zuni Necklace Depicting Apache Mountain Spirit Dancers Compliments of the Yen Motyka Collection	66 Close-up View of Inlay
67 Large Navajo Cuff Bracelet Compliments of the Yen Motyka Collection	68 Side View of Bracelet	69 Handmade Sterling Necklace Marked PS or JR Courtesy of Deb Schneider Adornment The Kennedy Museum at Ohio University in Athens, OH is having an exhibit of Zuni art (including 400 pieces of jewelry). I just heard about it today and Rik and I are planning to go. The Museum has some of the exhibit online at: Kennedy Museum of Art-Art of the Zuni
70 NA charms including a jack rabbit, a buffalo (bison) with turquoise, a tomahawk, a bear claw with turquoise and a Kokopelli. The only mark is "Sterling" on the bear claw. Note: Sterling bracelet is not NA and is marked 925 Italy. Compliments of Elizabeth Cooper Miss Martha's Memories Nancy Cox says "Your Indian charm is an Indian god rather than a tribe member. It is Kokopelli who was considered the god of fertility. Kokopelli has become very popular ever since the Southwest decorating era. He shows up in jewelry, pottery, rugs, and everything!"	71 Close-up of Kokopelli Charm	72 Native American Watch marked "R. TOM" Compliments of Elizabeth Cooper Nancy Cox says "This is a good example of something that might have been made for his own use. Signing is now popular but doesn't necessarily mean the item is for sale."
73 View of Mark on Watch	74 Squash Blossom Ring Bought in the 1970s. No marks Compliments of Lorna Breshears Jewelry Addiction	75 Bell Trading Co. Ring Bought this in the 70s, maybe around Grand Coulee Dam area. Courtesy of Lorna Breshears
76 Turquoise Ring Again 1970s Courtesy of Lorna Breshears	77 Navajo Ring My fave--a gift from 1974 or 75 from a teacher who had lived on a reservation. Courtesy of Lorna Breshears	78 Pretty Turquoise Pin Courtesy of Lorna Breshears
79 Picture of mark	80 Mother of Pearl Ring in Sterling Silver I aquired several pieces by this maker with a simple mark CJ this ring is stunning with a nice pink Mother of pearl center. Possible NA or reproduction Compliments of Brandy Smith Davine Dezines Vintage Treasures on eBay	81 Coin Silver Turquoise Bracelet Possible NA or reproduction Courtesy of Brandy Smith
82 Sterling Silver Cuff Possible NA or reproduction Courtesy of Brandy Smith	83 Another Sterling Silver Cuff Possible NA or reproduction Courtesy of Brandy Smith	84 Pretty Cuff Bracelet Possible NA or reproduction Compliments of Brandy Smith
85 Sterling Silver and Mother-of-pearl Shell Inlay Ring, marked SC Courtesy of Mary Ann Docktor-Smith Mary Ann, Mary Ann Designs and Anna's Vintage Jewelry	86 Mark on Ring Courtesy of Mary Ann Docktor-Smith	87 NA Sterling Silver Turquoise Earrings (purchased in 1976) Courtesy of Mary Ann Docktor-Smith
88 View of mark	89 NA Turquoise Earrings Compliments of the Connie Gumtow Collection	90 NA Inlay Silver Compliments of the Connie Gumtow Collection
91 NA Cuff Bracelet Compliments of the Connie Gumtow Collection	92 NA Turquoise Brooch Compliments of the Connie Gumtow Collection	93 NA Necklace with Shell Inlay Compliments of the Connie Gumtow Collection
94 Mark on Necklace	95 NA Turquoise Bracelet Courtesy of Evelyn Rowell magnoliaglitz on eBay	96 Multi Stone Bracelet Courtesy of Evelyn Rowell
97 Navajo Ring Courtesy of Evelyn Rowell	98 Side view of NA Cuff Courtesy of Evelyn Rowell	99 NA Najavo Squash Blossom Necklace Compliments of the Norma Adams Collection
100 NA Najavo Turquoise Nugget Necklace Compliments of the Norma Adams Collection	101 NA Squash Blossom Necklace Compliments of the Norma Adams Collection	102 NA Squash Blossom Necklace Compliments of the Norma Adams Collection Nancy Cox says "Likely Apache."
103 NA Turquoise Necklace and Earrings Courtesy of Dinah Hoyt Taylor CAPRICIOUS CROWNS & JEWELS Dinah says "My father gave this choker and earrings to my mother in 1957. He bought it in Scottsdale, AZ for their 30th anniversary. The earrings were clips, and I had them converted in 1970."	104 NA Sterling Silver Cuff Bracelet (1947) Courtesy of Dinah Hoyt Taylor	105 NA Concho Belt (1957) Courtesy of Dinah Hoyt Taylor
106 NA Sterling Silver Malachite Cabochon Native American Southwestern Mens Cuff Bracelet, marked "Sterling" inside and artist signed as well. (Circa 1950-60) Compliments of Carolyn Sunday Sunday and Sunday Nancy Cox says: "There is a lot of malachite used in Native American Indian jewelry. I have a necklace, several bracelets, and several rings."	107 NA Turquoise Pendent Necklace Courtesy Wendy Kelly kellyww on eBay and Vintageday on etsy.com	108 NA Turquoise Sterling Ring Courtesy Wendy Kelly
109 NA Feather Dangle Earrings Courtesy Wendy Kelly	110 Back of Earrings showing the marks S.J. and Sterling	111 NA Horn with Eagle Motif Pendant Courtesy of Wendy Kelly
112 NA Zuni Cuff Bracelet marked "F. PANTEAH" (Florentine Panteah) Compliments of Diane Hanselman Past and Present Jewelry	113 Side View of Bracelet Compliments of Diane Hanselman	114 Bracelet Mark Compliments of Diane Hanselman