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Mandalay, Myanmar
Mandalay.  To most Westerners, it is one of the most exotic-sounding cities in the Far East.  Unfortunately, the only thing exotic about modern-day Mandalay is its name.

Electricity works but only intermitently; cars exist but are as rare as a cool breeze; poverty looms large but crime is never a concern. Undeniably, Mandalay is a fascinating wreck of a city.

On a clear day, climb up temple-encrusted Mandalay Hill for panoramic area views.  Then, take in an evening marionette performance or laugh your way through the non-stop political satire of a Moustache Brothers show.

Even better are the sites surrounding the city:  the ancient cities of Ava and Mingun, the scenic U Bein's bridge or the Mahagandhayon Monastery where over 1,000 monks can be seen going through their daily rituals.
July 200740 Images15020 visitsAlbum by David KohlPhotos by David Kohl & Ross Rosenberg
Enlarge photo 1 Entrance to Mandalay Hill
Two giant "chinthes" (mythological offspring of lions or dogs) guard one of the entrances to Mandalay Hill.
Enlarge photo 2 View from Mandalay Hill
View of the city of Mandalay. The moat that surrounds the palace can be glimpsed in the distance.  According to legend Mandalay Hill was climbed by the Buddha.
Enlarge photo 3 Typical bus in Mandalay
Enlarge photo 4 Buddha stone carvers
Enlarge photo 5 Stone polishers
These women are putting the finishing touches on a Buddha staue.  There is a several-block district in Mandalay where Buddha statues are carved.
Enlarge photo 6 Bodhi flower necklace
This sweetly fragrant bodhi flower necklace was often given as an offering at temples.  The custom originated when followers of the Buddha used to offer a garland of flowers to him.
Enlarge photo 7 Pounding gold leaf
Bits of gold are pounded into paper-thin sheets and then cut into squares.  These squares are then sold in packets to devotees who press them onto Buddha statues or onto pagodas.
Enlarge photo 8 At a Moustache Brothers Show
The Moustache Brothers welcome visitors into their home for a comedy show satirizing everything from the Myanmar government to their own relatives.  Shown here is Par Par Lay performing.
Enlarge photo 9 Moustache Brothers
Two brothers were arrested and imprisoned for several years after performing a show that made fun of the government in front of government officials. Shown here are (l to r) Par Par Lay, Lu Zaw and Lu Maw.
Enlarge photo 10 Mahagandhayon Monastery
In the city of Amarapura on the outskirts of Mandalay is the Mahagandhayon Monastery, the largest monastery in the country.  Monks line up with their rice bowls to receive their last meal of the day at around 10:15 a.m.
Enlarge photo 11 Serving rice to the monks
Every Myanmar male is expected to spend at least two stays in a monastery during his lifetime: first as a novice (between the ages of 10 and 20) and later as a fully ordained monk (after the age of 20).
Enlarge AVI 12 Monks
Bright red robes are reserved for novices; darker-colored robes for fully ordained monks. (Brief video of monks receiving their rice meal.)
Enlarge photo 13 Monks eating
About 87% of the Burmese population is Buddhist.
Enlarge photo 14 Typical sleeping quarters of a monk
Laypeople gain merit by donating rice and other food to monks.  Families take pride in providing food, clothing, books and other goods to monks.
Enlarge photo 15 Nuns eating
Girls often enter the monastery as nuns. They wear pink robes - though the color has been washed out in this photograph.
Enlarge photo 16 Silk spinning
Amarapura silk "factory".
Enlarge photo 17 Mandalay gas station
Gas is heavily rationed by the government.  Car owners are only permitted to receive four gallons per week.  If a driver needs more he will have to purchase from black market vendors like this one.  Octane levels are notoriously low.
Enlarge photo 18 Umin Thouszeh
This crescent-shaped colonnade is located atop Sagaing Hill.
Enlarge photo 19 Buddhas, Buddhas everywhere!
Behind the colonnade is a dizzying display 45 Buddha images.
Enlarge photo 20 Sagaing Hill
From atop Sagaing Hill you can enjoy views of the Ayeyarwady River and Mandalay - on a clear day.
Enlarge photo 21 Ferry to Ava
The ancient city of Ava (or Inwa) can only be accessed by ferry.  It is cut off from roads by a series of rivers and canals.
Enlarge photo 22 Ava ferry
Ava was once the capital of the Bamar kingdom beginning in 1364. Northern Burma had once been known as the Kingdom of Ava. The city was abandoned in 1841.
Enlarge photo 23 Ava ferry close-up
Enlarge photo 24 Ava transport
The only way to get around Ava is by oxcart or by walking.  A typical house (on stilts) is in the background.
Enlarge photo 25 Maha Aungmye Bonzan
Monastery at Ava built in 1822.  It was badly damaged in an earthquake in 1838.
Enlarge photo 26 Ava monastery
Enlarge photo 27 Ava monastery
What is it????
Enlarge photo 28 Ava Ferry Dock
Two kids having fun as we await our return ferry ride back from Ava.
Enlarge photo 29 Wharf at Mingun
Approaching Mingun.  The incomplete Mingun pagoda can be seen in the background.
Enlarge photo 30 Mingun waterfront
The river is laundry, bathing site and transportation thoroughfare.
Enlarge photo 31 Mingun taxi
Go ahead: tell him you only want him to use the meter.
Enlarge photo 32 Mingun Pagoda
In 1790 construction was started on this pagoda but was irreparably damaged by an earthquake in 1838.
Enlarge photo 33 Hsinbyume Pagoda
Sorry, this pagoda was truly impressive but on this overcast day this photo was the best we could do.
Enlarge photo 34 Mingun Bell
This is the largest uncracked bell in the world.  It was meant to be housed in the uncompleted Mingun pagoda.
Enlarge photo 35 Mingun Bell
It is customary to hit the bell three times - once for your father, mother and teacher - and then one more time for yourself.  Some like to crawl inside to hear the reverberation more intensely.
Enlarge photo 36 Mingun waterfront
Enlarge photo 37 Ayeyarwady Vista
It was the monsoon season when we visited.  Water levels were high.
Enlarge photo 38 Ayeyarwady Temple
This temple was surrounded by water during the rainy season.
Enlarge photo 39 River scene
Houses close to the river had to be abandoned.  Residents moved to temporary homes on higher ground.
Enlarge photo 40 U Bein's Bridge
At over 3/4 mile long, U Bein's Bridge is the longest teak bridge in the world...and it is nearly 250 years old.