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PW Receiver Hitch
Power Wagon Receiver Hitch

Bar Code on Hitch  42512 75098
Made for 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Contact me for full details on install

During my PW restoration, I wanted to add a Gooseneck and a Class III Receiver
Hitch.  The Gooseneck with removable ball was solved by using a Draw Tite Gooseneck
Platform for the removable ball and doing a custom fabrication on the frame mounts.

The Receiver hitch was not so easy.  I tried contacting Draw Tite, Reese and a few other companies that make receiver hitches regarding one that would fit a Flat Fender Power Wagon.  I gave them the frame spacing but was told, " we only can look up by application"  (we know that is not true) but I was at a dead end.  It was either find a
commercial made receiver or fab my own.  My time is running short so I wanted the commercial receiver.  I went to a Uhaul store (Uhaul handles Draw Tite Hitches).  The
owner was helpful, but could not give me a hitch by frame spacing and needed drop.
However he let me go into his hitch stock room and measure all the hitches.  After measureing a lot of hitches and counting all the little numbers on the ruller :-), I found Hitch # 75098    the Bar Code Number is 42512-75098.

Most, if not all receiver hitches mount on the bottom of the frame, held in place with
3 to 4 bolts on each side.  These bolts and a smile are all that hold your hitch on.
I wanted more !! I wanted the hitch mounts to come up verticle to the top of the frame and then bend over to be bolted/welded.  In so doing, all the weight on the receiver hitch is DOWN on the frame, not hanging on some bolts.

Draw Tite / Uhaul hitch # 75098 will do just that.  It is NOT an exact drop in, but little work is needed to make it fit perfectly. First the hitch verticle mount plates are
.750" wider than the inside of the frame rail spacing.  Second the rear angle brackets from the frame rails to the rear cross member are in the way.  

Use my measurements as a guide.  The Uhaul man said he sees a wide variation in hitches within a part number.  He said the holes are always right, but after that one never knows.

To install this hitch, I had my bed off so things went quicker than with a bed in place.  The length of the top flange on the receiver mount is 12.0  inches.  I measured back 12.0  inches on each frame rail from the inside of the rear cross member and marked that location.  I then measured in .375"  from the outside of the frame flange, on each side and scribed a line back 12.0 inches.  I then took my Plasma Torch and cut out that area on the top and bottom flange of the frame on each side.  The frame is now ready.  The square horizontal tube on the receiver hitch sticks out past the mount plates almost .625"  on each side.  This stick out will cause interference sliding down between the frame rails.  I cut that back to .250 and welded.  Originally it is only welded on the inside, so this is an easy cut.

With this all done, the complete hitch is dropped in from the TOP, so the mount flanges sit on top of the frame rail and the receiver tube extends just below the rear cross member.  The rear of the receiver tube, when everything is in place, will extend
.500"  beyond the back of the rear cross member.  It is sitting at 21.5 inches off the ground (center of draw bar tube ).

Then with clamps to hold everything in alignment, I Mig welded the top mount flange to the top frame rail.  Mig Welded the rear of the verticle mount to the rear cross member.  Mig welded the rear of the draw bar tube to the bottom of the rear cross member.  Mig Welded the front of the draw bar tube to the bottom of the rear cross member.  A small piece of .250 stock was welded back into the area cut out for the mount clearence.  With everything welded in place, no strength is lost by cutting that small area from the frame rail flange.

Finally,  I put back the rear cornor braces between the verticle mount and the rear cross member and Mig Welded.  Everything was acid etched, primed and painted with PPG Frame Black.

A word of Caution !!!!  When you modify a commercial hitch, you void any warantee.  You also accept responsibility for the safe installation.  You accept responsibility for high quality welds.  In no way am I suggesting that this is a Proper Way to mount this hitch, nor am I saying this has been tested as commercial hitches are tested.  I have given this as a informational document of how I put a receiver hitch on my PW.    However, I suggest that anyone wishing to mount a receiver hitch in this manner, contact Draw Tite, describe the procedure and get their approval in writing.        With that out of the way, I can sleep. :-)

As a side note, the Gooseneck hitch is NOT complete in the pictures.  Much more steel bracing was welded in prior to completion.

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