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Male vs Female (October 7, 2010)Male vs. Female
The age old dilema of which is better
Many people believe that female dogs make better pets...female preference seems to be ingrained in these people. Most calls for pet dogs have people wanting a 'sweet girl'. They don't think females display alpha behaviours like 'marking' and/or 'humping'. They believe that they are more docile and attentive and do not participate in fighting over dominance.
Well folks, this is not true and they don't call them a 'bitch' for nothing!
In the dog pack makeup, females usually rule the roost, determine pecking order, and who compete to maintain and/or alter that order. The females are, as a result, more independent, stubborn, and territorial than their male counterparts. The females are much more intent upon exercising their dominance by participating in alpha behaviors such as 'humping'. There is a reason people utilize the technical dog term of 'bitch' in a negative way-and it refers directly to the behaviors exhibited by the females of the dog world. Most fights will usually break out between 2 females. Males, on the other hand, are usually more affectionate, exuberant, attentive, and more demanding of attention. They are very attached to their people. They also tend to be more steadfast, reliable, and less moody. They are more outgoing, more accepting of other pets, and take quicker to children. Most boys are easily motivated by food (how true!!) and praise, and so eager to please that training is easy. However, males can be more easily distracted during training, as males like to play so often. And no matter what age, he is more likely to act silly and more puppy-like, always wanting to play games. Boys are fun-loving until the day they die. Females tend to be more reserved or dignified as they age. Witness the human equivalent of the twinkling eyed Grandpa still playing catch at age 70, while Grandma quietly observes from the porch.
Neutered males rarely exhibit secondary sexual behavior such as 'humping', or 'marking' and lifting of legs. Once the testosterone levels recede after neutering, most of these behaviors (if they ever existed) will disappear. Boys who were neutered early (by 5 months of age) usually don't ever raise their leg to urinate.
While the female will usually come to you for attention, when she's had enough, she will move away. While boys are always waiting for your attention and near at hand. Females are usually less distracted during training, as she is more eager to get it over with, and get back to her comfy spot on the couch. The female is less likely to wage a dominance battle with YOU, but she can be cunning and resourceful in getting her own way. She is much more prone to mood swings. One day she may be sweet and affectionate-the next day reserved and withdrawn or even grumpy. The female also has periods of being 'in heat' unless she is spayed.
Seasonal heats can be a three week long hassle not just for the female, but you and every male dog in the neighborhood. Did we mention that the seasonal heats happen TWICE a year?
If you are not breeding, you'd be best off to have her spayed since during this time she can leave a bloody discharge on carpets, couches, or anywhere she goes. She will be particularly moody and emotional during this time. A walk outside during this period can become hazardous if male dogs are in the vicinity, and she will leave a 'scent' for wandering intact males to follow right to your yard, where they will hang out, and 'wait' for days.
Research has also proven that a female NOT bred during a heat cycle stays in a flux of estrogen level which may give us the reason as to why females are more moody than males.
Males generally cost 1/2 the price to have neutered as a female does to be spayed. |
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House Training (April 5, 2011)How to House Break Your New Puppy
Guidelines to make housebreaking as easy as possible
Start at the ideal age
The best time to begin housebreaking a puppy is when it is 7 ½ to 8 ½ weeks old. At this age, you can teach the puppy where to eliminate before it has established its own preferences. But don't worry if your puppy is older when you start housebreaking; it will still learn, though it may take a little longer.
Six to eight times a day, take your puppy outdoors to eliminate.
Choose an appropriate spot to take the puppy immediately after it wakes up, after play sessions, and 15 to 30 minutes after meals. If you take your puppy to the same spot every day, pervious odor will stimulate it to urinate or defecate. Many puppies need 15 to 20 minutes of moving around and sniffing before they eliminate. Stay with the puppy the whole time. Housebreaking problems can result if you're unsure whether the puppy actually eliminated and you let it return to the house too soon. And remember the puppy needs to focus on the job at hand, so don't play with it until it has eliminated.
Use key phrase while your puppy eliminates.
If you repeat the same phrase (e.g. "go potty" or "take care of business") every time your puppy eliminates outdoors, it will learn that this phrase means that it is the right time and place to eliminate.
Once puppy eliminates outdoors, immediately reward it.
Reward the puppy by praising it, giving it a treat, or playing with it. But remember to reward it right away. The puppy will not learn to eliminate outdoors if the reward comes when it returns to the house. Instead, the puppy will think that it is being rewarded for coming inside.
Supervise the puppy indoors as well as outdoors.
Find a room in your house that allows you to watch your puppy as much as possible. This will help you catch the puppy if it starts to eliminate indoors. You can also leash the puppy or place a bell on its collar to help you keep track of it.
Don't punish after the fact.
If your puppy has an accident in the house, don't go get the puppy and rub its nose in it. This doesn't do any good because the misbehavior already occurred. Instead, try to catch the puppy in the act. If you see the puppy getting ready to housesoil, don't swat it, but stomp your foot, shake a can filled with pennies, or startle the puppy by yelling "outside!" The puppy will likely stop what it's doing, and you can take it outdoors to eliminate.
Don't leave food out all day.
Feed your puppy at set times every day, and remove the food bowl after 20 minutes. This will create regular intervals at which the puppy will need to eliminate.
Thoroughly clean areas where the puppy has pottied in the house. Your veterinarian can recommend a safe, effective product that removes both odors and stains. It's important to clean a soiled area completely, otherwise your puppy may return to it and housesoil again.
Stick with the training program. Most puppies can be successfully housebroken by 14 to 20 weeks of age. But a pet may take longer to housebreak for several reasons. Consult your veterinarian if you're having difficulty.
Information provided by Debra F. Horwitz, DVM, Dipl. ACVB, Veterinary Behavior Consultations, 12462G Natural Bridge Road, Bridgeton, MO 63044. |
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Crate Training (April 5, 2011)Crate Training and Teaching Quiet
To have a dog that quietly accepts being placed in a kennel is invaluable. This dog can be taken to public places and will not disrupt the people around you, and it will help your dog if she ever has to be hospitalized or boarded.
When you choose a travel kennel (crate) for your puppy, you should choose one that will fit your dog when it is an adult. This means that while the puppy is small you may have to place a board (or box) in the crate to shrink it down.
The crate should be placed in an area where the family lives. Puppies will not like the crate if they are locked away from human contact. Avoid using the garage, furnace room, or laundry room. If you want your dog to like her crate, don't use it as a form of punishment.
You can place a blanket or rug in the crate, but be very watchful. If your puppy starts to chew up the blanket, you need to remove it. Puppies that eat material can develop a blockage that will need to be surgically corrected. Place an entertaining toy in the kennel such as a stuffed Kong, or filled sterilized bone. If you place food and water in the crate, your puppy will probably dump everything out and make a mess. Your puppy will also have to go out frequently if she is drinking and eating all day.
When you place your puppy in the crate for the first time, you should make sure the puppy is exercised, and had a chance to relieve herself. Place your puppy in the crate, close the door, and leave the room. If your puppy starts to howl, whine, or dig at the door, try to startle the puppy (shaking a pop can with rocks in it works well) and say, "Quiet". Your puppy should sit back for a second in surprised silence. Immediately open the door and let her out. You don't need to cuddle her at this time. If you can't get the door open quick enough and the puppy starts fussing, leave her in. YOU MUST NEVER LET A PUPPY OUT OF A KENNEL WHEN SHE IS NOISY AND FUSSING. That will only reward the behavior.
After a 5 to 10 minute break, put your puppy back in her crate. If your puppy starts whining, startle her and say, "Quiet". Wait 30 seconds to let her out. If she becomes noisy again, hit the top of the crate and say, "Quiet". Do not open the kennel door until your puppy is quiet for 30 seconds. Keep repeating this process by increasing the time your puppy quietly stays in the kennel. (e.g., 1 minute, 5 minutes, and 15 minutes)
IMPORTANT RULES
Never let a noisy puppy out of a kennel.
When you let your puppy out, do not praise her, but open the door and quickly walk her outside.
Leave 1 toy in the crate that is safe to chew on, but do not put food or water in there. |
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