Album by John Cronin. Photos by John Cronin. 1 - 215 of 215 Total. 6311 Visits.
Rib/tail shopping list.
I ordered certain quantities of certain sizes. Here, I check my ordering notes and drawing so I can label everything.
Tracing paper with the size of every piece noted.
My notes for ordering the wood.
Everything's labeled.
To get as exact as possible, I use a 90 degree ruler to make sure the edge of the wood is right where I want it.
I've started to shape pieces to fit.
I determined I need to place 1/8" pieces under the leading edge beam and center beam. That puts them on center with the main beam.
Starting to look like a horizontal stabilizer.
To make sure this will work out, I placed a 1/8" piece on top to confirm it's level with the top of the beam. It is which means the stick is centered on the beam.
Made the other diagonals. Working on making the gussets.
Using the scroll saw to cut the forward gussets.
Decided to use the router. Trimmed only from the front to that small top. The two other sides will be trimmed with the leading edge and side beams. The bottom right piece is a template to which the gussets were attached using two sided tape.
I used a router bit to make the curved shape.
Bought it from Rockler.
Used a router to make the ledge. Here, I'm using a drill bit to check the cut on scrap wood.
Using a 1/8" piece of ply to check the depth of cut.
About to cut the real piece.
1/8" ply sits well on the ledge. PROBLEM….discovered that the 3/4"cut takes off some of the curve. I will order a new piece and instead of cutting 3/4", I'll cut 5/8" (just tried on a test piece). It actually makes a difference.
I made a jig to cut the angle on the horizontal stab edge pieces that go from 1" to 1/2".
Due to safety features of my saw, I had to move the sacrificial wood up. I'll glue it in place later.
Back end is a simple hinge. It worked great.
Getting ready to cut the main beam…back end of horizontal; stabilizer. Setting router to height of 3/4".
Setting to the router to cut 3/16".
Test cut looks good for height.
Test cut looks good for depth.
Always scary cutting the real wood.
Came out just fine.
Now for the other side.
An edge after all the cuts. Now working to shape the curve. I used a three jaw chuck from my lathe.
I first cut excess on the band saw. Now sanding it.
Will all be smoothed once the gussets are in place.
I made a new edge piece (lost the old one when moving). Knowing I'll have to route 1/8", I drew a line from one corner to a point 1/8" down on the other end. Drew another line from the opposite corner to another 1/8" point.
I then used the metal ruler and sanded until I hit it. Safer than the angle board on the table saw method I used earlier. Used electric hand sander.
I then used a router to take off another 1/8" both sides. I then sanded away part of the edge for the gusset. I'll sand the other end away later.
To explain, this is going from a 1" piece in back to a 3/4" piece (which is 1/2" at its inside) in front (leading edge). I sanded both sides down the 1/8" as explained earlier, then routed another 1/8". That took it down to a centered 1/2" point.
Since I plan to offset the vertical stabilizer 5/8" to the right to offset right turning tendencies of a Corvair engine, I thought I better build it now and then I can accurately place the holes for mounting it to the horizontal stabilizer.
I'm going to make the vertical stabilizer leading edge. Here I'm setting the router to 3/4".
Now setting it to a depth of 1/8". Those are 1/8" pieces of wood on either side of the router bit; ruler running across and touching the bit.
First tried a test piece. Checking for the 1/8" depth. Already checked the 3/4" height.
I finished routing the edges. Now trying a new way to round the front. The router method I used on the horizontal stabilizer can chop into the wood, so using my muscles instead. Using 80 grit paper.
I think this will work.
All done. I'm happy with it. You'll need a breathing mask this way and also ear protection for the high pitched squealing it makes.
Making the little piece for the vertical stabilizer.
Before.
After.
It'll work.
Used poster board to get the shape.
I'm happy with it. Used a 6mm Okoume scrap I had.
I'm making a block for the entire space. I'll sand it (taper) before cutting the shape out.
It works!
Working on vertical stabilizer gussets.
Pieces too long for the belt sander are sanded in the vise by hand or with the electric hand sander. Scrap wood on the sides is to protect the wood from vise marks.
Getting ready to shape the main beam of the rudder (leading edge). Checking height and depth first on scrap.
If you build to the plans, your rudder will be 5/8" below the fuselage. Different ways to deal with that, but personally I didn't want a smaller rudder.
I (accidentally) built my tail post to 12" and so added 1/2" to the rudder. I originally was going to lengthen the tail to match the 43 1/2" of the rudder, but I goofed drawing out the fuselage. The hinge will be in the 'plans' location.
You can see the original (erased) rudder bottom, the 43 1/2" mark and where I am at 44" (a little above a reference line).
Using scroll saw to remove areas for gussets.
This file has two sides. This side is the aggressive wood removal side. Then I use the other side. Works great!
I routed the rudder trailing edge.
Marking a line down the center.
About to trim off both corners.
I made a rough outline of the trailing edge (rudder(.
Scary!!!
Looks good.
Looks real good. I sanded it by hand next.
I am happy with it.
Blanks for fittings that go on the horizontal stabilizer.
Drilling holes. Each pair must match. Using #14 bit then the reamer.
This is one of the two fittings that go on the vertical stabilizer. The holes of the pair must match. Finishing with edges to belt sander, a file, 180 grit, 220, then 320.
I made several sketches and poster board cut outs to see just how the top and bottom of the rudder will look. I spent many hours coming up with a procedure to make this work.
I didn't cut the bottom yet.
About to cut the rudder top.
So far looks good.
There's the rudder bottom.
Gluing hinge reinforcements and one brace wire fitting.
Making upper brace wire fittings.
About to run a 3/16" bit in.
Blanks for horizontal stabilizer fittings.
I'm making them 1/8" larger all around at first. Allows room for the bend and for the width it gives a bit more room to work with.
Sanded with #150, #220 and #320. Edges were later beveled.
I used the floor mounted bender. When setting them in the bender, I had a 1/16" either side for slop (since I cut these 1/8" larger).
Finished them off with steel wool #0000.
Ready to drill. Paper is glued on with spray adhesive.
A pair must be drilled together so the holes are aligned.
A washer will guide the drill into position.
Here's the bit for the pilot hole. It's normally used for door hinges.
After the pilot holes, used bit #14 then a reamer. It came out fine. Those bolts will not be used in final assembly. I have aircraft hardware just to beat up on trial fitting.
About to drill pilot holes for hinges. I made the bit short so it doesn't walk. After making the small holes, I ran it through all the way.
Used a 7/16" Forstner bit and went in 1/8". The drill speed is about 3,100 RPM (versus about 900 RPM for metal).
For the side where I used the Forstner bit, I placed 1/8" shims under either side for support.
Now running a 3/16" bit through for the bolts.
I like it. (Abandoned this idea. See further down).
I did not want the bolts too close together. The holes are 3/16" and I spaced them 1" apart on center. The resultant space on the clevis pin is 3/4". I'll have to put washers in there or perhaps a spacer. I'll need a shorter clevis pin.
I made the gussets.
Change in plans. Will use hinges as outlined on the GN-1 plans. This is just an idea of what it will look like.
GN-1 Tail area plans which I'm using for hinges.
New leading edge of the rudder.
Placed a bolt in vertical stabilizer and marked where it hit the rudder beam. This location also verified by measurements and marks on the jig board.
I offset the two beams 1/8". I then took them, still clamped together, and ran a bit through both existing holes so they are definitely all aligned. These new holes were then drilled 1/4".
This is the hole that'll be lowest (behind tailpost).
I discovered the rear lower gusset needs to be 1/4" so the bracket will line up with the bottom bracket. Making new gussets.
FINALLY! Gluing it. That's a 1/4" gusset in the lower right corner. Also note 1/8" ply on both sides of the beam for hinges. No Forstner bit for this installation.
This has been a difficult piece.
Used 1/2" 18ga brad nails to hold gussets in place.
Discovered the beam moved 1/8", so I removed the gussets.
A file took care of the glue.
That's better.
Drilling holes for forward bracket.
Gluing the left side of the rudder. The hole is drilled on the interior beam for the rudder horn.
Tools used.
All that's left is to install the spruce strips.
Marking spruce strip locations.
My gusset goes down too far. I will need to perform minor surgery.
Cleaned it out.
Aligning the top strip with the lower strip.
All that's left is to sand the ends of the strips, and install the rudder horn.
These two pieces were a lot of work.
I sanded the tips of the spruce strips. Vertical stabilizer and rudder done!
About to drill holes for eye bolts in trailing edge of horizontal stabilizer and leading edges of the elevators. I have applied a 1/8" offset.
Ready for drill press.
1/8" ply applied to one side. Ignore ribs in these photos...it's another project.
Drilled holes through the 1/8" ply. Now applying 1/8" ply to the other side.
About to trim 1/16" from a diagonal.
After I trimmed both sides.
Getting ready to build the horizontal stabilizer.
Notched the main beam ends to accept the gussets.
Laying out the stringers.
Made eight new brace wire fittings for the horizontal stabilizer. These are 3" long or about 20% larger than the plans.
Here's how the larger size looks.
Blanks for mounting the wire fittings.
Gluing them on.
Glued gussets and the vertical stabilizer mount plates on the top side of horizontal stabilizer.
Now gluing the other side.
Main gussets and the small center pieces where the vertical Stabilizer mounts are all glued in. I added a 1/16" shim at brace wire bracket locations so brackets will be above the fabric. I still have to trim them. The other pieces are for another project.
About to drill pilot holes for the bolts that connect vertical stabilizer to horizontal stabilizer.
This is to make sure it goes in straight.
All four bolts are in.
I plan to offset the vertical stabilizer 1/2" to the right. That sent this hole off the longeron though.
Here's a head on view of the offset.
If I don't offset, that's where the hole would be. The other side is also affected by changing the offset.
Making a jig so I can drill holes through the aft fuselage perpendicular to the horizontal axis.
I placed the horizontal stabilizer in position. I used a 90 degree three sided ruler to to make sure the jig was square and then clamped in position.
My first attempt was close...the hole went out the other side about an 1/8" off. I plugged it and tried again. Better but still off. Decided to keep the hole and make a new bracket (oversized) to fit).
After drilling the holes.
All bolts went in.
Entire tail went together.
Drilled the lower hole in the fuselage for the bottom rudder hinge. Took two tries.
Now gluing the rest of the horizontal stabilizer.
Done!
Using stiff cardboard to get the shape for the aft turtle deck support.
I traced it to scrape wood.
Checking the fit.
Finished.
Making slots for shoulder harness in the pilot headboard.
Making slots for the shoulder harness brackets in the forward turtle deck support.
Making jig for elevators. This is the board I used for rudder. I was able to use the straight lines to quickly get this set up.
The side pieces (top and bottom surfaces) will get sanded from the corner at leading edge to 1/16" at trailing edge, then routed 3/16", then sanded the same way 1/8".
I prefer to make marks using actual pieces, not the ruler. Marking 1/16" here on the trailing edge area.
Ready to sand.
Done.
About to sand the opposite surface.
Setting router up for a 3/16" cut that goes 3/4" deep. Testing on scrap wood. Using a 3/4" piece of wood to check it.
Checking for depth using the piece that will sit on the ledge.
The edge beam is done. The beam for the other side is done the same way.
Marks on the other side beam for sanding.
1/8" is a lot to sand with hand sander, so used a 60 grit paper and also band saw to knock off what I could.
Looking good.
I marked the center of the trailing edge in preparation for sanding.
Cutting some wood away from the center beam edges for gussets.
Looking good.
Making templates for gussets.
The center beams need these holes drilled now for the elevator horn.
Trimming edges for gussets.
After the bandsaw, used a file to knock it down and then a 80 grit sander (hand).
Once my first set of gussets were complete, used them to cut out the other three sets. These still need to be trimmed and sanded to final dimensions and shape.
