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 john cronin | Home > My Pietenpol Project > 
Flight Controls
Construction of mostly metal parts used for flight controls.
Album by John Cronin. Photos by John Cronin. 1 - 96 of 96 Total. 1796 Visits.
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Cutting bushings and collars for the torque tube.

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Still have to clean these up.

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I've made bushings and collars for the torque tube, and blanks for the safety strap, rudder bar mount and safety belt brackets.

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I've cut the aileron control horn out and now cutting the hole for the torque tube.

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Knocking off the rough edge.

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Fits well.

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Ready to cut the second horn.

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I made a guide so the hole is cut to match the other horn.

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Cleaning it out.

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Good fit and matches other horn.

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Starting to bend the rudder pedal attachment fittings. I thought I should bend it before drilling the holes as I'm not sure if the holes would be distorted (by the bending).

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I marked on tape where I want the AN3 bolt heads to be.

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About to drill the first hole; it's 3/16" (using a step bit).

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Done.

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Now working on the pulley brackets. I'm transferring the hole.

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I use a washer to guide my drill bit.

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I use a centering drill bit.

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Black clamp holds the wood. The other bracket holds the work.

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I lubricate parts when drilling metal. I use an eye dropper.

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About to use a "D" drill bit. The clamps are not moved. The entire table swings out to change bits. The washer guide has been removed.

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The hole has been drilled.

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Done. I normally finish with a reamer, but the AN4 fit fine. Not sure yet if this is the actual size AN4 I'll use.

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About to run a "D" bit into tubing which will be the bearings for the control sticks (to torque tube).

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Now about to ream it.

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Shaping the tabs that connect control sticks to the torque tube.

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About to cut two control sticks from that bar. They will be a bit long for now.

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About to drill the first of two holes into the torque tube for the bushing where the control sticks connect.

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Going to use this for bending metal which will be used to squish tube bottoms.

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Like this.

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Getting ready to squeeze the bottom of rudder pedal. The 1/16" wood is to keep it square and somewhat centered on the metal backing.

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In place in my heavy duty vise.

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One side done. Now for the other. I used a BernzOmatic MAP-Pro Hand Torch. Doesn't quite get it red, but I'm able to squeeze the tube.

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Drilling a hole into the aileron control horn. The wood is to level it since the metal is curving.

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All welding is being done by a professional.

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I drilled a hole into the forward and aft bushings so I could drop some oil in to keep them lubricated.

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Used this small round file to get rid of any burrs.

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I cut a slot into the pilot control stick for the lug (for elevator control cable).

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Cutting small lugs which will go into each control stick. A rod will connect each thus joining both the forward and pilot control sticks.

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Making marks for the drill location in the rudder pedals.

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Using a #14 drill bit.

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Then used a 3/16" reamer. Perfect fit.

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All holes and brackets are numbered since each is unique.

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Drilled cotter pin holes in the lugs (for joining control sticks).

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About to drill a hole for the lug (in the pilot control stick).

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The pulley info.

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About to squish the ends of the tube that connects both control sticks. The back piece of metal needs to be as far to the right as possible. I forgot at the moment.

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Drilling a hole for the lug.

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All together.

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This is when a shop was welding it.

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I rounded corners of the six pilot seat belt brackets and control sticks connecting tube.

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Pilot seat-belt brackets.

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Working on the pilot rudder bar. You can see the ends have been squished and drilled.

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Now centering and getting lined up for the center mount bushing.

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That came out OK. Will have the shop weld it.

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Bought a metal bender from Harbor Freight. About to make the rudder post.

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About to bend the middle (top).

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The other side. I already bent one foot.

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That was scary, but worked out.

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Drilling the rudder post.

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A foam board will help shape the metal support bracket.

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Started drilling holes to mount the torque tube.

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This one was tricky. Glad I had this special tool.

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Needed to raise torque bar; the bar connecting both control sticks is hitting rudder bar post. I made a new change though and NOT doing this. read ahead.

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Making the elevator and rudder horns.

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All cut and trimmed to size.

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Bending the trailing edges.

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I'm using the shortest bolt in the rudder bar that'll work. Now, I don't need to raise the torque bar.

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Drilling a 3/4"hole in the elevator bellcrank.

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ALLEN K RUSSELL, Sat, 25 Aug 2018 7:41AM
 
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