A Conversation With Raynald Aeschlimann,
One of the most interesting pocket watch movements we've ever seen is this one: the base movement was made by Patek Philippe, and it was fitted at Patek with a version of Dr. Daniels' co-axial escapement in the mid-1980s. Patek of course eventually declined to develop the co-axial escapement and put it into production, but this replika Panerai remains a fascinating example of a watch from the very long road to the eventual industrialization of the escapement by Omega.That might have been true back then for mechanical watches. But these days, function schmunction – we all know quartz does the job better. If mechanical watches have a function in 2021, it’s less about telling the time and more about prodding us to embrace romantic impracticality. And judged by that criteria, this watch is as functional as it’s ever been.Bonnard was actually a client of Patek – Emile-Charles Bonnard, a retired French medical professor who retired to Switzerland – who requested this ref. 96 as a special order. The other observatory dial ref. 96 also has a signature for a client – "M. Berphaudin" (either a typo or issue of an over-cleaned watch made for Marcel Berthaudin – one of the largest wine dealers in Geneva. In fact, Berthaudin and Bonnard were related. The watch remained with the Bonnard family from 1936 to 1991.
When it was first released in 2011, Panerai’s Bronzo was a really big deal. It was a big deal to Panerai enthusiasts, who feel very strongly about the company’s diving history, and who unanimously enjoy the sight of a vintage piece that's received a bit of abuse through the years. And it was also a big deal to Panerai itself, which was one of the first companies to faithfully recreate the time-weathered effect by finding the right mix of alloys for an appropriate bronze.Previously launched in both white and pink gold versions, this is the latest incarnation of Vacheron Constantin's Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date, and it is now part of their limited edition and boutique-only Collection Excellence Platine. With a 950 platinum case and a matching dial, the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date even features strap stitching using thread in both platinum and silk. When VC wants to do special, you know they don't mess around.The HODINKEE pas cher Panerai Shop is an Authorized Retailer of OMEGA watches – you can register your interest in the new Speedmaster '57 collection and explore our entire selection right here. The HODINKEE Shop also carries a selection of pre-owned and vintage OMEGA watches. For more information about Omega, visit their website.And this one, to my mind, is very cool. I love the dark hue of the blue dial surface, and – from afar – the graining gives off a sense of staring at the sky at night in a remote locale where most residents have never even seen a city. You can see Mars from there. Whether that's the intended effect of this pattern or not, I don't care. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
Caliber: 240 HUFunctions: Hours, minutes, day/night indication, and 24-hour world timeDiameter: 27.5mmThickness: 3.88mmPower Reserve: 48 hoursWinding: AutomaticFrequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)Jewels: 33Additional Details: Patek Philippe SealThe Hublot Big Bang Camo Texas is limited to 25 pieces, each priced at $18,800. To learn more about the watch, visit Hublot online.Hublot is part of the LVMH group. Although LVMH Luxury Ventures is a minority investor in HODINKEE, we maintain complete editorial independence.Okay, now we're into the good stuff. These are some of my absolute favorite watches, from any manufacturer, and any time period. And we've covered them extensively here on Hodinkee for the better part of two decades at this point. Still, there's a lot to learn – but let's replica IWC start with a small video from ten years ago with the man who literally created the Heuer Carrera: Jack Heuer himself:Now to the moment (or the feature) that you all were waiting for: the light show, which – if I'm being honest – is probably what most non-buyers go crazy for (though I'm sure the owners won't scoff at it either). Through that smoked sapphire dial, Lange shows off a copious amount of lume on and under the dial.
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