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 Kristin and Will | Home > Costumes and Creations > Completed Costumes > Movie/TV/Art Costumes > 
Sansa Stark Purple Gown
*UPDATE 12/29/2013* - I made a Winterfell inspired cloak to go with the dress for a winter photo shoot at Fort Tryon Park/The Cloisters in NYC.
I made a gored cloak from 3 yards of light coating wool (60" wide) in a burgundy color.  The fabric was about $25.
The cloak closes with an old leather belt that is snapped to the upper front with heavy-weight snaps.  It crosses over the front of the chest and then closes in the back with the original belt buckle.  The belt was $1 at a thrift shop.
The fur mantle was made from reclaimed fur from a coat my mother-in-law was having altered.  She gave me the scraps rather than toss them.
It was so warm, warmer than my actual winter coat and I didn't want to take it off to go home lol.  Riding the subway in a long dress with a train is not practical though, so that battle was lost.

This was a last minute addition to be Dragon*Con list.  I've wanted a Sansa style dress for a while, but just didn't do it.  I bought Fabric on Tuesday and cut it out that night.  Wednesday night I sewed up the dress.  Friday LATE night (after work and an event) I added the piping trim, adjusted the fit a little, and hemmed it.  I also made the petti-skirt and "scarf" like piece for under the bodice.

This was originally not meant to wrap as far as it does, but to be just a robe front.  However, I lost a bit of weight and cut the pieces for my then 31" waist.  I tried it on and realized my waist was now 29".  So now it wraps a bit, but still looks lovely all the same :)

The little closures are actually bees, because I could not find Dragonfly ANYTHING large enough.  I don't have time to make them right now, so these bees will be painted gold and work for now.

The front of the dress is piped all the way to the hem line, I had noticed that some of her dresses had a similar detail on them, and this was a great way to finish off a raw edge with little work.  The sleeves have this same detail, and then they are folded back and tacked in place for a regal look.

I did manage to match up the fabric pattern pretty well on the left and the right.  That is something that rarely happens for me, so I was excited that it worked out so well.  

The "scarf" thing (does this have a more technical term?) is made from a 3 yard piece of poly shantung that was hemmed and pleated at the neckline.  I then pressed the pleats all the way to the bottom so it would lay better under the dress.  You can see in photo of Sansa and Loras walking, as she plays with this scarf, it goes all the way to the ground.  Hers was a lighter-weight fabric, but the one I used matched my fabric really nicely.

I used McCall's 4491 (discontinued) medieval dress pattern as a start.  I then cut new princess seams starting mid shoulder going down.  This was done in both the front and the back.  I changed the neckline from a rounded one to an angled one.  The front was also cut so that it was open.  I altered the center back pieces so that they just had a seam instead of the lacing closure.  I then adjusted the back and shoulders while I was wearing it for a better fit as the pattern adjustments caused some gaping in those areas.  I did not use the bottom sleeve pattern piece (didn't have enough fabric left).  I did use the top piece, but altered it very slightly for fit, I also used the underarm gusset as it makes the sleeve fit and move so much better.  It's not a hard piece to insert and does help the fit of the garment.
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Robe front dress with bee closures (couldn't find dragonflies), sleeve and front edges piped with a burgundy piping. Nice long bell sleeves. There is a "scarf" for the neckline and a petti-skirt for underneath.

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Front bodice detail. You can see the pattern alterations on the front here.  I added those additional princess seams just under the shoulder by cutting up the pattern and sewing it back together.
You can also see how I changed the neckline and made it an open front.


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Long drapey sleeves with folded over detail and piping.
The sleeve shape was my own design.


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Petti-skirt for body under the dress. I didn't want to make a full chemise as I didn't want to die of heat (there's the scarf already).
You can also see how the dress opens in the front here as well.


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Back with a longer train than hers.  I'm a sucker for a beautiful train.  I love how the fabric patterns match up nicely :)

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Back bodice detail.
You can see the adjustments I made in the pattern pieces here.  The princess seams coming from just below the shoulder were added, and the center back was sewn up the middle.


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Winterfell cloak for my Sansa dress.
I made a gored cloak from 3 yards of light coating wool in a burgundy color.  
The cloak closes with an old belt that is snapped to the upper front with heavy-weight snaps.  It crosses over the front of the chest and then closes with in the back with the original belt buckle.
The fur mantle was made from reclaimed fur from a coat my mother-in-law was having altered.  She gave me the scraps rather than toss them.


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Winterfell cloak for my Sansa dress.
The back is train-less for ease of wear.  Carrying the dress train around is enough as it is.


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McCall's 4491 Medieval Dress

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Reference Shot
You can see the scarf she wears under the bodice and how long it is here as well as the underskirt.  Most of her dresses are of this build, just with varied fabrics.


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Reference Shot
This was the fabric inspiration for mine.  I wasn't looking to find the exact one, but mine came pretty close in pattern, it's just darker in color.


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Here you can see the scarf and the edging detail on the front and sleeves.  I made my sleeves similar to hers here, how they fold over and are trimmed.  This is also a pretty good shot of the dragonfly cloak clasp.


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This photo was taken by Will as David was shooting.  The color was so off due to it being a camera phone photo, so I made it into a black and white pic in photo shop and softened the overall feel.

 
   
 
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