Pics and video to go with printed instructions included with each kit.
June 4: at LONG last, the video was uploaded today. Sorry, but shooting, editing and voice-over work totalled two days — then multiple attempts to upload to YouTube failed.
I've loaded a lower-res version here, to fit the maximum file size.
Date(s): April2020. Album by Barry Stewart. Photos by Barry Stewart. 1 - 23 of 23 Total. 234 Visits.
IMG 7478 In the beginning...
Version 1 model. (More traditional style came at the end of May, as Version #2.)
IMG 7484 Metal axes, drills and saws — and a belt sander — were things the traditional builders would have loved to have.
All of their tools were made from wood, stone and animal parts, such as teeth and bone.
IMG 7495.JPG Once the first draft was made, I made a jig, to help make the next ones more quickly and accurately.
1/8-inch drill holes matched the barbecue-skewer dowels.
IMG 7547 My chop saw came in very handy — and didn't chop off any fingers...
IMG 7542 Version #1 production line, ready for disassembly and labelling.
Z4300130 Version 1 lay-out, viewed from the back.
1859 plank houses at Hope This would have been at about where Gardner Motors now stands.
Note the cache in the tree, to the left.
Fort Hope would have been behind these buildings.
Salish Longhouse, British Columbia The interior of a plank house. The clothing (and gun) indicates this is after contact with Europeans.
(1864, in the lower right corner)
Plank-house-structure-described-in-the-ethnographic-and-historical-record-with.png Smoke release/chimney made by temporarily shifting some planks.
Raised plank houses at Yale These are at Yale, probably after 1860. They are caches for dried salmon.
Raised off the ground to keep animals out.
Roof planks.png
Z5240008 Version 2 roof planks, made with a router tool. It must have been very difficult to make the traditional roof planks, without modern tools.
Z5270019 Apply felt pads on the bottom of the base, to protect other surfaces.
Sign your name, as "Built by: ____________" — as this hopefully will be a keeper!
Z5270018 Note colour coding, to get parts in the correct place.
Z5240001 Version 2 frame, loosely-assembled, before tying. This base has been painted with fence stain, to look like dirt.
All the other wood can be left in its natural state.
(Note one less rafter beam, compared to version 1.)
Z5270022 Using the grooves as guides, tie the rafters down with 15-20 cm long twine. After double-knotting, trim off excess twine.
TIP: the knots may not hold, if you clip the excess twine too short. A dab of white glue will help the knot hold — and it is not visible, after drying.
Leave the middle rafter off, until all interior work has been done.
Z5250011 Sliding door action>>>
Z5250012
Z5250014 All of the poles applied, before adding planks.
Z5250015 Side view, with poles installed.
Z5250016 At each set of poles, tie a rope above each plank (... except for the top of the top plank. There's a special tie there.)
Tying wall planks.png The walls could be untied and the planks taken from summer home to winter home and back.
It took a lot of time to make these planks, and taking them along would keep them from being stolen.
The frames would be left in place.
• Unlike in the model, the traditional planks slightly overlapped each other, making the wall more wind and rain-proof. Replicating that in the model would take extra attention to detail. Tapering the lower edge of each plank (in the model) would probably be the easiest way to affect an overlap.
