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Tunisia (December 2019) | 1727 Visits
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Malta (December 2019) | 1674 Visits
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Rome (December 2019) | 1889 Visits
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India 2018 (December 2018) | 5601 Visits
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Egypt (January 2017)Visiting Egypt poses a vexing conundrum for many American travelers. Should I go? Is it safe? Is it feasible to travel without being part of a group? We decided we should go, that it is as safe as anywhere else these days, and definitely YES you can travel easily and assuredly without being part of a group.
In late December/early January, the weather in Cairo could not have been better. Sunny, warm days; cool, clear nights. Perfect weather for exploring this fascinating city. Initially, we had only allotted three nights in Cairo, but quickly added another. There is so much to see and do. The Egyptian Museum (go at night and avoid the tour groups), Coptic Cairo, Islamic Cairo, and the Pyramids are just some of the highlights. But just walking around the Zemalak area was a daily and nightly pleasure.
Leaving Cairo for Aswan, we took an inexpensive flight to Aswan. Spent a couple of days seeing the sights before heading off for Abu Simbel. The tacky sound-and-light show was our reason for lingering overnight; nevertheless, the town proved a peaceful respite from the bustling cities.
Flying back to Aswan, we spent three nights on a dahabiya, floating down the Nile, before docking at Luxor. Four nights in Luxor is time well spent. Splurge for the balloon ride over the Valley of Kings at dawn, opt for staying on the West Bank, and decide to pass up the sound-and-light show at Karnak. After Luxor, we just had time for two more nights in Cairo, and then back home to winter.
Egypt is easy to explore without a tour group. Internal flights are an inexpensive and fast way to cover long distances in a flash. Knowledgeable local guides are easily hired for a day or two of sightseeing. But get out and walk. Enjoy the towns and sights without hundreds of tourists blocking your view. It is the perfect time for visitors to return to Egypt: low prices, few tourists and the pleasure of having these world-renowned sites practically to yourself. |
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Toronto/Niagra Falls (November 2016)Picture-perfect weather complemented our extended weekend trip to Toronto in early November.
Spent two full days were walking, shopping and eating our way through many of Toronto's diverse neighborhoods. Yes, we took the obligatory ride up to the top of CN Tower. But found that what was missing from the view atop the CN Tower - was a view that included the CN Tower! We had the most fun wandering through the Ripley Aquarium during the relative quiet of an early Sunday evening. We had the sharks all to ourselves.
And for our final day, we took a day trip - by train - to Niagara Falls. As luck would have it, made-to-order blue skies and abundant sunshine graced our only day at the Falls. Amazing weather for early November. And the proof is in the photos. |
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Norway (February 2016)Need a winter getaway, but not to get away from winter? Try Norway.
Oslo makes an obvious base for the start and end of any trip. Three nights/three days is barely enough time to get acquainted with Norway's charming capital. But we tried. We crammed six museum visits into one day. Yes, six. But we were still not too exhausted by day's end to be overwhelmed by the array of Munch paintings in the National Gallery.
Don't miss the chance to take advantage of Norway-in-a-Nutshell: an ingeniously choreographed way to get from Oslo to Bergen by combining a ride on a regular fast train with a narrow-gauge rail, a boat trip through a fjord (yes, even in winter - or, as we believed, especially in winter), a bus and finally another regular fast train which ultimately deposits you in the heart of Bergen. It was a highlight on a trip filled with highlights.
Bergen is a wonder. Blessed with an unusual spell of sunshine and springlike weather, we ventured to Edward Greig's home in Troldhaugen, just outside of Bergen. Easily reached by public transport, then a half-hour stroll. And in February, you will have the house practically to yourself.
Flying from Bergen to Tromso is highly recommended if you are short on time - which we were. Tromso, located above the Artic Circle, was snow-covered but not numbingly cold. Shivers, though, were reserved for our nightly quests to view the northern lights. Cliches abound when describing the lights - awe-inspiring, magical, otherworldly. All apply. One more item to check off our bucket list. |
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Namibia (June 2015)Namibia is Africa's least populated country with some of Africa's most magnificent scenery - both landscape and wildlife. We began in the capital Windhoek, picked up a rental SUV and then headed north to Etosha National Park. Etosha is a self-drive safari park. Spanning nearly 8,000 square miles, Etosha is home to an astonishing array of wildlife - elephants, lions, giraffes, rhinos, etc. And all are within easy viewing distance either from your car or by waiting patiently at the many watering holes scattered throughout the park.
From Etosha we pressed further north to Opuwo. Opuwo is Himba country. The Himba are a semi-nomadic tribe now numbering less than 50,000. They are most famous for their women who coat their skin and hair in a orange-hued mixture of ochre, butter and herbs. The mixture acts as a natural insect repellent as well as a sunblock. The women style their hair with this mud-like concoction into distinctive waves and startling peaks. As fashion dictates, no two women have the same hairstyle.
Lingering only a day in Opuwo (a town with limited charms), we drove further south - making at pit stop for the night in the town of Kamanjab. We had enough time to check out the tamed and wild cheetahs at the Otjitotongwe Cheetah Reserve. Petting a cheetah was one of the many highlights of the trip.
Next day, off we went to the coast - landing in Swakopmund for a couple of nights. Swapkopmund a German town transplanted onto the Namibian coast. Immaculate and tidy, this seasonal holiday resort (though not in June) is a great place to catch a boat ride to see dolphins and other sea life.
Still heading south, we drove through some of the most desolate regions along the Namibian coast. Few cars, straight gravel roads and plenty of desert scenery to distract. Our destination - Sossusvlei, the country's number one tourist attraction. Breathtaking orange sand dunes loom on both sides of the park's roadway. The largest dune - Dune 45 - is about 500 feet tall. But the star attraction is Dead Vlei - an eerie, white sand (former) lake dotted with withered, mummified trees.
After a few days in the desert we returned to Windhoek - clocking a couple thousand miles on our dusty SUV in just 12 days. Not hard to do in a country that has so many fantastic natural splendors spread out at such a great distance. |
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Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe (June 2015)How do visit two of the three countries of the world that begin with the letter 'Z' in one day? Go to Victoria Falls. Victoria Falls, the world's largest waterfall, straddles two countries - Zimbabwe and Zambia. We stayed on the Zimbabwe side (in the town of Victoria Falls) and visited the Zambian side. Which side has the better views? A toss up. Each side is different; each merits a visit.
Victoria Falls is a tourist friendly town without feeling too touristy. It is safe, walkable and friendly. Beware: Elephants still roam the streets; baboons can be seen throughout the town at any time of day.
A trip to southern Africa just would not feel complete without a sojourn to Victoria Falls - the Seventh Wonder of the Natural World as well as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Don't miss it if you are in this part of the world or you will regret it for the rest of your life. |
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Cape Town, South Africa (July 2015)We visited at the beginning of July - winter in the South Africa. The weather could be challenging. But we were fortunate: four days of uninterrupted sunshine. Simply lovely.
We stayed in De Waterkant area of town. Highly recommended. But outside of this area there are definite security issues.
What to do: head to Table Mountain near sunset; wander around Bo-Kaap; tour the peninsula down to the Cape of Good Hope. If you are short on time, skip Robben Island. It will eat up your day and the tour will make you feel as if you were rounded up in a cattle car. |
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Vietnam (December 2014)Even though more than 40 years had passed since the Vietnam War had ended, Vietnam remained stubbornly rooted in our 1960s/1970s memories as a war-ravaged nation. Realistically, we knew it had changed. But we were unprepared for the Vietnam of 2014.
We began in Hanoi. The former capital of North Vietnam still has one foot anchored in the past but the other - propelled by its younger generation - is hurtling into the future. We spent a day touring the highlights (with a free student guide), caught a water puppet show and hung out at rooftop café. But the best way to get to know this city is to walk it. And we did. The city has a buzz - and it's not just from the coffee. It is abuzz with change. New shops and restaurants are opening daily. Young people, anxious to practice their English, guilelessly approach willing tourists. A big city with a small city feel.
After an overnight cruise on nearby Halong Bay, we moved on (by overnight train) to Sapa, in the northwest highlands. For three days we never saw the sun. Low clouds, fathomless fog and persistent drizzle were our constant companions. Nevertheless, we fell in love with this town and its indigenous people.
Rocking back to Hanoi on another overnight train, we flew down to Da Nang - only to use it as a stepping stone to reach Hoi An and Hue. Rain and clouds continued to hound us. Nevertheless, we were seduced by Hoi An. Yes, it is a touristy town (by Vietnamese standards) but with good reason. Classic architecture, terrific food and plus we were able to snag a couple of nights at the small, atmospheric Vinh Hung Heritage Hotel. From Hoi An we traveled by bus for a two-night stay in Hue. Great sights surround this dodgy town. And the rains were the steadiest here.
From Da Nang we flew to Can Tho in the Mekong River delta. A day-long delta tour and couple of nights in this town were all we could afford before heading (by bus) to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon).
Saigon of 2014 definitely did not match our mental images of Saigon in the 1960s. Not at all. Saigon is on its way to be the next Hong Kong or Singapore - well on its way. Colonial-style buildings are rapidly being displaced by high-rises. Gucci and Louis Vuitton have already settled in. A proposed subway system is gnawing apart the streets. Change is everywhere.
This trip began in the more provincial north and ended with a wallop in the 21st century south. Our journey was a wonderful introduction to the varieties of peoples and places that this ribbon of a country contains. Too much to cover in one trip. More time, more time, more time - this is the traveler's lament. |
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Hong Kong (December 2014)"Occupy Central" began in Hong Kong on September 28, 2014. Thousands of protesters took to the streets - blocking roads in several key locations throughout the city. The non-violent protestors sought a direct electoral voice in the elections for the Hong Kong Chief Executive and the Legislative Council elections. But Bejing wanted the process to remain the same.
When we were planning our trip to Vietnam, we deliberately scheduled an overnight in Hong Kong - specifically to be a witness to history.
We arrived late on December 5 with just enough evening hours left to experience the Hong Kong night market. The next day - after a jet-lagged 12-hour snooze - we headed off to the Admiralty area to view one of the last encampments of the Occupy movement.
The occupiers' tents spread out across a wide swath of a multi-lane highway in the heart of Hong Kong's financial district. Some protesters were working on transforming a grassy highway medium into an urban farm. One young man had traveled from his home in England back to his birthplace to participate in this movement. "Post It" notes - words of encouragement from visitors from around the world - tiled a one-story, exterior stairwell wall. Curtains of small yellow paper umbrellas decorated and divided sections of the protest area. The Occupy site moved us in unexpected ways. It was the highlight of our brief stay.
Within a week - while we were still traveling in Vietnam - we read that the last of the Occupy sites had been dismantled. For the moment, the protest was over. Our visit to the site lasted only a few hours one December morning but the memory of it will last our lifetimes. |
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Cape Verde (June 2014)Cape Verde was named one of 2014's World's Ten Best Ethical Destinations by the Ethical Traveler organization. The winning countries were judged on their records on environmental protection, social welfare and human rights. Cape Verde has been included on the list for two years in a row.
This island nation is adrift in the Atlantic Ocean approximately 300 miles off the west coast of Africa. Its name was derived from its location due west of Cap Vert (the name of the Dakar peninsula of Senegal), not for its greenery. The Cape Verde archipelago includes ten major islands, and an assortment of tiny uninhabited islets. Some are mountainous; others are flat. Some verdant and tree covered; others stark and desert-like.
Though discovered by the Portuguese centuries ago, some of its islands are now being rediscovered by European package tourists. But independent travelers should not be dismayed. The four islands we sampled - Fogo, Sao Vicente, Santo Antau and Santiago - have yet to be heavily commercialized. These are the islands that lure independent travelers; they justify Cape Verde's place on the Ethical Traveler's top 10 list. These are the islands that await to be "discovered" - even today. |
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Uzbekistan 2013 (October 2013)Uzbekistan - situated in the heart of Central Asia - is a land that has been conquered and reconquered again and again. Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan, Tamerlane (Timur) are among its most notable warrior/rulers. There have been others. Countless others.
Once we landed in country's shiny, modern capital - Tashkent -and traded in our dollars for a suitcase full of soms, we were ready to tackle Uzbekistan's Silk Road. First stop, Samarkand - conquerer/hero Tamerlane's home base. Although the Registan and Shah-I Zinda are its star attractions, the city's sprawling central market is a close second.
From Samarkand we detoured into the Nurata mountains for a one-night homestay, then spent another night nestled down in a yurt camp near Lake Aydarkul before we final settled in for a few nights in Bukhara. At Bukhara's heart is one of the Silk Road's fabled ancient walled cities. Mosques, mausoleums and minarets dominate the skyline. Fabled rugs, clothing and weavings fill its shops.
From Bukhara we traveled further north to Khiva - a walled city that has been turned into a living museum. Our days were spent exploring the crumbling desert forts in the Karakalpakstan region (spreading out from Khiva's northeast) and venturing further northwest to the remote city of Nukus and the Igor Savitsky Museum. During the Khiva's moonlit nights, we wandered its ancient streets or took in outdoor screenings of classis Uzbek flims.
When we returned to Tashkent and prepared to leave, we realized that we came to Uzbekistan for its legendary Silk Road cities but we what we will remember most is the warmth and hospitality its people. |
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Northern Chile 2012 (August 2012)Why spend two weeks in Chile's Atacama Desert - known as having the driest climate on Earth? Maybe to behold otherworldly scenery in one of the most remote locations on the continent; or perhaps to gaze up into the clearest night skies on the planet; or simply to revel in one perfectly warm, perpetually sunny day after another.
We began our tour of the north in the coastal town of La Serena, took a side trip into the beautiful Elqui Valley, flew up to San Pedro de Atacama and then bused back to the coast and the town of Arica. A few days were lost wandering up to Parque Lauca before we spent our final nights in Santiago, Chile's capital city.
A night at one of the observatories in the Elqui Valley is a requirement and the San Pedro reqion is a deserved tourist magnet. But desolate Parque Lauca is a treasure worth discovering - the ultimate destination for any explorer of Chile's austere northern region.
Get all the details of this trip on our blog: Northern Chile Blog |
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Chiapas, Mexico 2012 (April 2012)In 1995, we spent only three nights in San Cristóbal de Las Casas but it has lingered in our travel memory for years. This colonial mountain town cast its spell on us. We vowed to return.
Seventeen years later and we are back. San Cristóbal has changed - more restaurants, shops and walking streets – but its appeal remains.
We revisited San Juan Chamula and Zinacantán – just two of the many traditional Mayan villages that surround San Cristóbal. But now we had more time to explore Chiapas' outlying regions. Once again, we traveled - via the "road to hell” (See our blog - link below)- to Palenque; journeyed along the Guatemalan border to behold the Mayan ruins at Yaxchilán and Bonampak; stopped off at Agua Azul and Misol-Há on our way back to San Cristóbal (again on the "road to hell, part 2”); and finally headed south to spend a few nights in the colonial town of Comitán, and visit the nearby Lagunas de Montebello and El Chiflón.
Even after twelve days, we wanted more. The State of Chiapas is still off the radar of many international travelers. Mexican tourists, though, are descending upon this region in record numbers: to soak up its culture, history and natural beauty.
Again, we vow to return. We just hope it doesn’t take another seventeen years for it to happen.
(For more detailed information on this trip - including hotel and restaurant recommendations, transportation information and the nitty-gritty of the costs of travel - check out our blog at: Chiapas Blog) |
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Helsinki Finland (August 2011)On a sunny August day, it is hard to resist allure of this Scandinavian capital. Canopied food stalls cram its waterfront; street-corner stands overflow with an astonishing array of late summer berries; joggers, bicyclists and cafe idlers glory in the protracted Finnish summer sun.
Helsinki. Stylish and sophisticated. The hub of the country. Its largest city. Yet with a surprisingly small-town feel.
During our nearly three weeks in the Baltic region, we zig-zagged back and forth to and from Helsinki. It became our base: more comfortable and comforting with each return. An under-rated gem on the Baltic. |
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St Petersburg Russia (August 2011)The "Venice of the Baltic". Peter the Great's greatest achievement, his "Window on the West". The city was christened St. Petersburg, reborn as Petrograd, renamed Leningrad and is now back to being St. Petersburg once again.
St. Petersburg began life as the Tsarist capital. It survived an attenuated seige during World War II. But it is now being invaded once again - this time by hordes of tourists. Packs of them. And always accompanied by linguistically gifted, flag-toting guides. Independent tourists have to devise their own strategies to combat the group tours - especially in summer. It is possible, but requires planning.
Unfortunately, August can also harbor some of the rainiest days of the year. During our stay, clouds and rain crowded out most glimpses of the sun. Nevertheless, the town still gleamed. The Hermitage and Russian Museums garnered the usual awe. And downing a few blinys and shots of vodka helped ease any feelings of dreariness. |
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Stockholm Sweden (August 2011)With only three nights and four days to spend in Stockholm, it was only possible for us to get a tantalizing taste of what this city has to offer. Gamla Stan, the oldest and most picturesque neighborhood in the city, oozes medieval charm. It is the heart of Stockholm. The place to be.
Yes, the Vasa and Nordic Museums are must-sees; and a trip out to Drottningham Palace is predictably impressive. But in summer, the real pleasures of Stockholm are to found by wandering its streets. Street fairs, open-air markets and free concerts are commonplace on most summer weekends. And we took advantage of them all.
But we saved the best for last: a boat trip through Stockholm's archipelago - over 30,000 islands extending 80 miles out into the Baltic Sea. No mere daytrip for us - it was our over-night transport from Sweden to Riga, Latvia. |
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Riga Latvia & Tallinn Estonia (August 2011)After enjoying the sophisticated pleasures of Helsinki, the imposing majesty of St. Petersburg and the medieval beauty of Stockholm, how could Riga and Tallinn possibly compete? They do. And nearly outshine their more reknown neighbors.
Riga is a beauty. Just a few steps inward from the Baltic Sea, Riga's medieval spires soar above the shores of the Daugava River. Its more recent neighborhoods spill eastward. The city is home to one of the largest collection of Art Nouveau-styled buildings in Europe. It is also has a surprisingly respectable National Art Museum and a movingly informative Latvian War Musuem.
Tallinn, at first, seems a little too well-preserved (a little "Disneyesque") and touristically accommodating ("well-worn, cruise ship port-of-call") to feel genuine. But how can Estonians be faulted for getting the "tourist thing" so right when they possess such an extraordinary medieval treasure.
But don't misunderstand: neither of these cities are simply outdoor medieval museums. They are both on the vanguard of our technological age. Estonia and Latvia are galloping forward - at an economic pace greater than many of their larger Baltic rivals. Their futures may become even more interesting than their pasts. Just maybe not as beautiful. |
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Morocco (April 2011)How can you see the highlights of this country in only 10 days without renting a car or enduring a tour bus? And without breaking your travel budget? Simple. Go by train. It is one of Morocco's best kept travel secrets.
Just step off your plane in Casablanca, descend a set of escalators (within the airport) and hop on a train. Easy. And you're on your way. The trains are clean, efficient and affordable.
From Casablanca's airport, we first traveled by train to Marrakesh - spent three nights - then headed off for a 2-night stay in Moulay Idriss/Volubilis (via the train to Meknes and a shared taxi to Moulay Idriss), then on to Fes (by train from Meknes) for three nights and finally our last day/night in Rabat (by train from Fes) before arriving in Casablanca(from Rabat by train) to catch our homeward-bound plane.
Add on side trips if you have more time; subtract a destination if time is tight. Either way, train travel in Morocco is a no-brainer. A winning strategy for newbies or veteran world wanderers. |
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Peru 2010 (August/September 2010)Three weeks of travel in Peru - more off than on the Gringo Trail. Just the way we like it.
We began by skimming along the Pacific coastline. Starting in the north - in Chiclayo and Trujillo - we worked our way south to Paracas and the Ballestas Islands. Then, weaving our way inland, we drifted into the oasis town of Huacachina before flying off to view the nearby Nasca Lines.
But the mountain towns were not to be neglected. The colonial towns of Cajamarca and Ayacucho were standouts. But Huaraz and Chavin - cradled by picture-postcard, mountain scenery - demanded bundles of days for high-altitude Andes exploration.
These desert and mountain regions of Peru should be on every independent travelers "must see" list - before the strangle of tourism takes hold. And it will. The archeological treasures of the north coast, the stunning desert vistas of Huacachina and the barren beauty of the Paracas coast are fated to emerge as world-class destinations. Trust us. Word is already out. |
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Guatemala Semana Santa 2010 (March/April 2010)We kicked off our Guatemalan Easter Week in Santiago Atitlan, along the shores of Lake Atitlan. The town is also the home of the venerated statue of Maximon: an indigenous, fictional half-breed - part Judas, part Spanish conquistador. On the Monday evening following Palm Sunday, we watched - along with the the women and children of the village - the men wash Maximon's clothes in the lake's waters.
After laundry night, we sped back to Antigua for the main attraction - one of the most lavish Holy Week celebrations in all of Central America. Each day during Semana Santa, procession participants - carrying giant apparitions of suffering Christs and weeping Marys - trudge for hours along the city's sawdust- and flower-carpeted streets. The Lenten activities culminate with the largest and most somber procession on Good Friday evening.
But for us, the high point (figuratively and literally) of the week was the long-anticipated hike up Pacaya Volcano. Pacaya is one of the few active volcanoes that can be climbed. It is a dangerous and potentially lethal ascent: fascinating, nightmarish - like walking over hell. And we have the melted shoes to prove it. |
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Nicaragua (April 2009)The Spanish may have conquered it, the Somozas may have ruled it but its forty volcanoes continue to dominate it. Nicaragua is a marvelous Central American amalgam of natural wonders, colonial splendors and political survival.
Skipping Managua entirely, we made a beeline for the colonial city of Leon. Catching the last few days of its Semana Santa (Holy Week) festivities, we often found ourselves ambushed by one of Leon's many neighborhood religious processions. But the highlight was watching the day-long creation of the Good Friday sawdust "carpets" (alfombras). Thoroughly capitvating. Heady political murals and dozens of colonial churches added to the conversation in this intellectually-charged, university town.
Granada, our next stop, is Nicaragua’s other, more restored colonial city. Yes, it is more "gringoized" than Leon but it is a beautiful, comfortable and convenient base for exploring nearby attractions. For example, from Granada, with Lake Nicaragua lapping at its shores, Isla Ometepe, the lake’s mythic twin volcano island, is an easy and essential excursion.
But the no trip would be complete without checking out conditions at Volcan Masaya. A night time tour is the most dramatic. Just remain calm and “duck and cover” under a nearby car if the volcano decides to spew a few rocks in your direction. Remember, you were warned. |
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Guatemala 2008 (August 2008)Fourteen years and one civil war have passed since our first visit to Guatemala.
Antigua is still one of the most beautiful towns in all of Latin America. Its magnificent volcano-ringed setting transforms even the most hapless of snapshots into one with National Geographic possibilities. McDonalds and tuk-tuks may have invaded the town but its earthquake-tossed colonial heart remains unscathed. Chichicastenango and the Highlands - the most traditional regions of the country - are still struggling to move forward while clutching the past. And Lake Atitlan. Ah, Lake Atitlan - where you could lose your entire vacation and not even care.
Guatemala's natural beauty continues to astonish. Its indigenous culture survives despite the inevitable encroachment of the 21st century. But in our minds, it will always be the most fascinating and diverse country in Central America. |
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Puebla & Veracruz States, Mexico 2008 (April 2008)On this trip we purposely veered off the Mexican “gringo trail” to explore some of Mexico’s least visited but most worthwhile sights and cities.
Landing in the small but friendly airport on the outskirts of Puebla, we spent our first two nights in the university town of Cholula. From there we journeyed (by public bus, always) to Xalapa before side-stepping over to the port city of Veracruz. We then hugged the Gulf coastline on our way to Papantla, tumbled through mountain shortcuts to the indigenous village of Cuetzalan and finally zig-zagged our way back to Puebla for a final night’s rest.
What were the highlights? The pure tourist in us reveled at wandering through Puebla’s bustling Sunday markets, then delighted in discovering an "untouristy" outdoor danzon performance at a plazuela in Veracruz. The amateur archeologist in us crooned while counting niches at El Tajin, then cursed while ducking through tunnels beneath the Gran Piramide of Cholula. But the traveler in us will never forget watching the waves of fog lap in and out of Cuetzalan’s main square each evening - confirming the town's appellation as a "pueblo magico".
If you can do without white-sand beaches, can speak a little Spanish and can endure some twisty mountain bus rides, this journey will reveal a side of Mexico that few North Americans see. Fascinating ruins, indigenous mountain towns and grand colonial cities await – and all amazingly without hordes of tourists. |
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Yangon, Myanmar (July 2007)Yangon (formerly Rangoon), the capital of Myanmar (formerly Burma), appears to be crumbling before your eyes. Time stopped decades ago for this city of four million. It is the Havana of Southeast Asia.
Thankfully, Yangon has at least one beautifully maintained structure - Shwedegon Pagoda - one of the most important and imposing Buddhist shrines in the world. Shwedagon is reason enough to linger.
Heat and humidity conspire to defeat even the most enthusiastic of tourists in Yangon. Yet, even as reservoirs of perspiration pool in your shoes, you can't help being drawn into the charms of this time-warped town. |
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Bagan, Myanmar (July 2007)Bagan - Myanmar's premiere archeological destination - streams out over 25 square miles and contains an astonishing array of more than 2,000 temples.
Not as well known as Cambodia's Angkor Wat but every bit as impressive. There is nothing like surveying the Bagan plain from a temple-top perch at twilight. Nothing. The setting sun plants chiaroscuristic kisses on all buildings within its reach. Beautiful and calming.
Unfortunately, Myanmar's military government is in the process of creating replicas of many of the temples atop unexcavated ruins. (Their idea of "restoration".) The result is a Disneyfication (pretty, but characterless) of these historic gems. Go before more irreparable damage is done. |
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Mandalay, Myanmar (July 2007)Mandalay. To most Westerners, it is one of the most exotic-sounding cities in the Far East. Unfortunately, the only thing exotic about modern-day Mandalay is its name.
Electricity works but only intermitently; cars exist but are as rare as a cool breeze; poverty looms large but crime is never a concern. Undeniably, Mandalay is a fascinating wreck of a city.
On a clear day, climb up temple-encrusted Mandalay Hill for panoramic area views. Then, take in an evening marionette performance or laugh your way through the non-stop political satire of a Moustache Brothers show.
Even better are the sites surrounding the city: the ancient cities of Ava and Mingun, the scenic U Bein's bridge or the Mahagandhayon Monastery where over 1,000 monks can be seen going through their daily rituals. |
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Inle Lake, Myanmar (July 2007)Inle Lake - set among the picturesque Shan Hills - provided a wonderful respite from the hustle and heat of Mandalay and Yangon.
Besides admiring the narrow (18 miles long, 5 miles wide) lake's blissful setting, most visitors come to witness the one-legged rowing style of the native fisherman or to drift through the dozens of canals threading Inle's ingeniously tethered floating gardens.
A day-long boat trip captures many of the lake's highlights but casual rambles to some of the nearby villages uncover the lake's real charms - its people. |
| 4581 Visits
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Peninsular Malaysia (August 2007)White sands, towering skyscapers, green tea-leaf carpeted hills and luminous fireflies. In ten days we sampled some of the amazing diversity of mainland Malaysia.
Eight years and one currency crisis have passed since we last visited Malaysia. The country is charging into the 21st century. Kuala Lumpur is no longer a Singapore wannabe but a legitimate contender. Malaysia plans to be a major world economic force by 2020. It appears to be almost there...way ahead of schedule. Watch out. |
| 4856 Visits
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El Calafate & Ushuaia, Argentina (August 2006)After a brief night's rest in Buenos Aires, we headed down to Patagonia. Our first stop - El Calafate - the gateway town to Argentina's glacier region.
For our trip to Perito Moreno glacier, the weather gods smiled upon us. Blue sky provided a stunning day-long backdrop for our glacial ogling.
The next day was spent trawling the waters of Lago Argentino. Our tour boat threaded the iceberg-laden lake - delivering us to the fronts of Upsala and Spegazzini glaciers.
Leaving the glaciers but not the ice, we flew down to Ushuaia - Argentina's southernmost city. A boat tour of the Beagle Channel is a must. And we couldn't pass up the chance to dog-sled our way through a Patagonian valley.
Although it was winter, it was not the frigid antarctic cold we had dreaded. We almost could have left our long underwear home. But I'm glad we didn't. |
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Easter Island (August 2006)A visit to Easter Island is like visiting a dream.
This Polynesian island is stranded in the Pacific Ocean about 2,600 miles off the Chilean coast. Until 1968, the only way to reach this island was to hitch a ride on a Chilean warship. (The ship brought provisions once a year.) Now, a 5 1/2-hour plane ride from mainland Chile will deposit you at the shores of this otherworldy outdoor museum.
We spent four days and four nights on the island. One day we hiked, two of the days we took guided tours and one day we just hung out. The weather was partly cloudy most of the time with highs in the upper 60’s (Fahrenheit)and low 70’s. Certainly not beach weather.
But you don't come to this island for the beaches. You make the pilgrimage to gawk at the over 600 “moais” – gigantic carved stone heads – scattered around this island. They eerily keep watch over the denuded island landscape. A surreal experience. Utterly dreamlike. |
| 1112 Visits
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Santiago & Valparaiso, Chile (August 2006)We squeezed a brief stay in Santiago between the Patagonian portion of our trip and our Easter Island sojourn. We left our stay in Vina del Mar/Valparaiso for the end our trip.
Santiago, the capital of Chile, is a modern city with a modest amount of older, colonial buildings. The highlight of our stay was a lunch-time trip to the central fish market and a tour through the city's marvelous pre-Columbian museum.
Valparaiso is a hillside wonder hugging the mountainous Chilean Pacific coast. Century-old “ascensores” (cable cars) deliver you to tops of many of the city’s “cerros” (hills). From there you wander among the jumble of riotously colored buildings that cling to the city’s slopes.
It is hard to imagine that this country - less than 20 years ago - was in the grips of one of the continent’s most repressive dictatorships (Pinochet). Now it seems like a country of worker bees – the most North American of the South American countries we have visited. |
| 6792 Visits
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Bolivia (July 2005)We spent nearly two weeks in Bolivia with an additional week-long trip to Peru sandwiched in between.
We jump-started our trip in La Paz, the highest capital city in the world. (We actually never stayed anywhere in Bolivia that was under 9,000 feet!) From there we traversed the altiplano to Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca and then to Aegean-like island of Isla del Sol. After catching our breath (literally) for a few days on Isla del Sol, we returned to La Paz and flew down to its sister capital - Sucre.
From Sucre we visited the colorful Tarabuco market, the amazing Cal Orko dinosaur prints and the dizzingly high-altitude city of Potosi.
We returned to La Paz, crammed our suitcases with our last-minute purchases from Calle Sagarnaga and talismen from the Witches' Market and prepared, reluctantly, to go home. |
| 1024 Visits
41 Images
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Peru (July 2005)Cusco - a beautiful town tucked in the heart of the Andes mountains - provided a high-altitude base for our weeklong excursion in Peru. From there we headed up to Machu Picchu - a destination that has loomed large on our personal travel list for years.
No matter how many pictures you have seen of Machu Picchu, your first views of the site are still awe-inspring and surprising. It does not disappoint.
From there we worked our back to Cusco via the Sacred Valley. We spent a night in each of the major towns in the valley - Ollantayambo, Urubamba and Pisac - before arriving back in Cusco. Ollantaytambo - with its cobbled streets and stone architecture - was probably our favorite. But the sites outside of Urubamba (Moray and Salinas) are not to be missed and the market in Pisac is one of the largest and most colorful that we have seen. |
| 3909 Visits
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Jordan (April 2005)Our 9-day vacation to Jordan in April of 2005 was a textbook tour of the highlights of this remarkable country.
After landing in Amman, we taxied to the small town of Madaba for our first two nights' stay. From there we toured Mt. Nebo, the Dead Sea and Jerash, then followed the King's Highway to Petra. After a few days at the fabled ruins of Petra, we spent two days and one night in the desert of Wadi Rum - Lawrence of Arabia country. We continued down to Aqaba, snorkeled in the Red Sea and then scurried back up to Amman for our final night in Jordan. Not a moment wasted but still we never felt rushed.
While it's hard to top seeing Petra's Treasury building or bobbing in the unsinkable waters of the Dead Sea for the first time, our hearts were won over by the beauty and tranquility of Wadi Rum.
Jordan should be a "must" on every traveler's list. Generous people, delicious food and world-class sites rich in history. |
| 4039 Visits
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Central and Northwest Argentina (August 2004)Our second summer trip to Argentina.
Landing and departing from Buenos Aires allowed us to extend our search - for another summer - for the best steaks and helado (ice cream) in town. Between meals, we squeezed in an overnight stay in Colonia, Uruguay.
From BA, we flew to San Juan to catch an two-day excursion to the otherworldly national parks of Valle de la Luna and Talampaya. Then bounced over to Mendoza - the wine capital of the country - and endured three rain-soaked days before retreating to the sunny Northwest.
We traveled up to Jujuy and Humahuaca (our second visit to the town) mainly to access the remote village of Iruya. |
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Buenos Aires, Salta & Iguazu, Argentina (August 2003)Our first trip to Argentina.
After getting our bearings in Buenos Aires, we headed off to northwestern Argentina to explore the area around Salta. First to Cachi, Cafayate and Quilmes then up to Purmamarca, Humahuaca and Salinas Grandes (the salt flats). The landscape is similar to the American southwest but even less populated.
We then flew to Iguazu Falls which straddles the border with Brazil. After spending a few days exploring the falls, we headed back to BA for our final nights in Argentina. |
| 976 Visits
33 Images
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Ottawa (February 2002)A President's Day weekend escape to the wintry north.
Arriving in Ottawa on the last weekend of their Winterlude (winter festival), we checked into the historic Chateau Laurier hotel and then checked out the "Beaver Tail" - as in local pastry specialty - situation. By day we skated on the Rideau Canal, explored the Canadian Musem of Civilization and toured the Parliament building. At night we'd wander the town and admire the floodlit ice and snow sculptures. |
| 2713 Visits
20 Images
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Bali and Java, Indonesia (August 2002)These photos are highlights from a two-week August vacation to Bali and Yogyakarta, Java.
On Bali, we based ourselves initially in the "artist town" of Ubud - away from the mega-hotels and beach bustle found along the southern reaches of the island. Our bungalow style hotel - Oka Wati's - was a peaceful oasis just a stone's throw from the main action. Days were filled with hiking through rice paddies, biking down from volcanic lakes or simply lounging by the pool. Nights were booked with dance, music or shadow puppet shows. And in between we indulged in massage or two, downed a few Bintan beers or worked on filling our extra duffle bags with Balinese treasures.
We left Bali for a few days and flew to Yogyakarta on the neighboring island of Java. "Yogya", like Ubud, is the cultural center of the island. But unlike Ubud, Yogya is a large city. And the change was dramatic: streets were an endless sea of buses, cars and bicycles; sidewalks were hopelessly clogged with pedestrians day and night. But outside of Yogya are two sites worth all that urban tussle: Borobudur and Prambanan. Borobudur is a stunning Buddhist mountain temple complex; Prambanan, a glorious collection of Hindu buildings rising from the Javanese plain. Borobudur beckons you at sunrise; Prambanan you fall in love with on a moonlit night.
We returned to Bali for a few more days in Ubud and then headed south to the beach village of Jimbaran. Fresh fish restuarants wrestle for space along the beach; wildly colorful fishing boats fill the bay every morning. Not as overly developed as its more famous neighbor - Kuta Beach - Jimbaran still retains much of its fishing village feel.
In two weeks, we just scatched the surface of these island wonders. They just leave you itching for more time in this part of the world. Some day... |
| 2693 Visits
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Panama (August 2001)Yes, Panama is more than the Panama Canal.
Snorkling lovers will find it hard to leave the crystaline waters of Bocas del Toro; nature lovers will savor the tropical diversity of the mountainous Boquete area; culture junkies will get their kicks from the surprisingly large indigenous population still living in traditional ways.
But the Panama Canal can be reason enough to go. Really. Hands down, it is simply one of the wonders of the modern world. |
| 3955 Visits
32 Images
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Yucatan (April 2001)We began and ended our five day journey through the Mexican State of Yucatan in the colonial city of Merida.
From Merida we headed south (in our VW Beetle rental car) to drink in the majestic Mayan ruins at Uxmal. Using the Villas Arquelogicas at Uxmal as our base, we wandered on a day-long excursion through the nearby low-lying Puuc hills - exploring the ruins at Kabah, Sayil and Labna, only pausing long enough for a traditional Yucatan-style lunch in the town of Ticul.
The next day we set our sights on the gulf coast town of Celestun. Flamingos, mangrove forests and shimmering white sand beaches beckoned. After a morning boat tour of the flamingo-laden lagoon outside of Celestun, we drove a few miles north to the idyllic eco-resort (so aptly named "Eco Paraiso") for a well-earned rest. But soon we were hurtling ourselves back into the urban hum of Merida and then, preparing ourselves for the following day's flight home.
This trip was too brief. But it could serve anyone as a perfect introduction to Mexico for a visitor who wants to avoid the mega-resorts and experience the culture, history and beauty of this fascinating area. |
| 19975 Visits
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Luang Prabang, Laos (August 2000)A week before we were to fly to Thailand, we saw an episode of "Lonely Planet" on PBS that featured the Laotian town of Luang Prabang. There was something about this town that cried out, "It's now or never." We knew we had to get there.
We somehow squeezed in a three-day visit to this - then - sleepy town. Yes, the heat was oppressive. Yes, clouds - not sun - prevailed. Nevertheless, the charms of this town clearly shone through: French colonial buildings (in various states of renovation and disrepair), Buddhist temples trimmed to the hilt in dazzling gold gilt and the gloriously muddy Mekong River slipping by - almost unnoticed - along the western fringe of town. |
| 2271 Visits
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Thailand (July/August 2000)Our trip to Thailand consisted of visiting Bangkok and Chiang Mai - and the areas surrounding them.
Temples, elephant rides and searingly hot (read spicy) food were the highlights. Traffic, pollution and oppressive heat were the downside. The physical landscape (remember, we visited no beaches) underwhelmed us; the man-made landscape, though, stunned us.
But next time, we head south for the beaches. Tuk-tuks, farewell. |
| 1661 Visits
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Angkor Wat, Cambodia (August 2000)Unquestionably, one of the wonders of the ancient world.
We sandwiched this visit between our stays in Thailand and Laos. Three days and three nights. More ruins than we could ever have imagined.
Siem Reap - the nearest town to Angkor - was experiencing a building boom. Foundations for future mega-hotels littered the road from the town to Angkor. By now, this strip must be utterly transformed - Las Vegas, Cambodian-style? |
| 2148 Visits
17 Images
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Sumatra, Indonesia (July 1999)As a side trip from our trip to Malaysia, we flew to the Indonesian island of Sumatra. Our goal was to reach the mountain town (3,000 feet above sea level) of Bukittinggi - home of the staunchly matrilineal Minangkabau people.
Although we only traveled a few hundred miles by air, Sumatra felt worlds away from the Malay mainland. Gone was the well-ordered transportation network typical of a former British colony (Malaysia). Instead, we were flung into the chaos of Indonesian roadways where every mode of tranport - cars, trucks, buses, bicycles, motorcyles - jockeys for space along with chickens, dogs, horses, pedestrians and the occasional oxen.
The town of Bukittinggi will win no beauty prizes. But the warmth of the people made us believe that it was one of the most attractive places we had ever visited. |
| 2352 Visits
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Mainland Malaysia, Borneo & Singapore (June/July 1999)We spent three weeks exploring Malaysia and Singapore during the early summer of 1999.
What was our most memorable experience?
Downing the freshest food possible at the night market in conservative Moslem Kota Bharu? Sharing a walkway with an orangutan at the Semenggok rehabilitation center outside of Kuching? Alternating between feelings of ecstasy and pain during a foot massage in Singapore? Sharing tuak (rice wine drink) with Iban longhouse members in the depths of the Borneo jungle? Or maybe, simply the joy of spying on a giant sea turtle idling on the ocean floor just a few feet off the shore on the Perhentian Islands?
Hard to choose, right? |
| 4413 Visits
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Greece (July/August 1998)How can you visit Greece and never set foot on an island? Easy.
Beginning in Athens, we bussed north to Kalambaka in the heart of the spectacular Meteora region of Thessaly. Then down to Delphi, crossing the Gulf of Corinth by boat to Diakofto. By train and bus we made our way to the seaside town of Nauplion - our base for exploring the ruins at Mycenae and Epidarvos. We pressed further south (by driving a "toy" rental car) into the depths of the Pelopennesian peninsula to chill out at the Bay of Limeni. The stone towers of Vathia were just a stone's throw (pun intended) from Limeni. But before turning back to Athens, we drove eastward to Monemvasia - a world heritage town cleverly huddled into the side of a mountain peninsula - and made a pit stop in Sparta.
No islands. A few beaches. Startling landscapes strewn with ancient ruins, monastery-topped mesas and medieval forts and towns. Who needs islands? Well, maybe next time. |
| 3278 Visits
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Paris, Amsterdam & Brussels (August 1997)Three capitals. Ten days. Pre-Euro.
We landed in Brussels then scooted by train to Paris. Hunkering down in a small hotel on a pedestrian-only street, we set out to explore Paris' outdoor museum - its streets. After five days of non-stop walking and gaping, we hopped back on the train and headed to Amsterdam.
Amsterdam deserved more than few days that we had. After eyeballing Van Goghs, despairing over Anne Frank, downing shots of ginniver and abandoning time in coffee houses - the days flew by. A bicycle trip to the windmill-landscaped outskirts capped our 3-day mission.
Then off to Brussels and Brugge. Belgium was definitely a letdown after Paris and Amsterdam. Pretty but boring. Next time, encore de Paris...and Amsterdam! |
| 3206 Visits
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Southern and Central Mexico (August 1995)In an amazingly circuitous route, we covered a lot of ground in just three weeks in southern and central Mexico.
Landing in Villahermosa - a steamy Gulf town - we grabbed a bus to Palenque (a fabled Mayan ruin set against a lush jungle backdrop) and continued via endless switchbacks to San Cristobal de las Casas.
San Cristobal (the most Guatemalan of Mexican cities) was a terrific pit stop - pleasingly sited at about 7,000 feet above sea level. The highlight: an illuminating day-long tour with Mercedes Hernandez Gomez of the surrounding traditional villages. Not to be missed.
We then hopped on a plane and flew into Oaxaca. Great food, sensational crafts and several must-see archeological sites make this town a destination for any traveller seeking the "real" Mexico.
Another plane and bus ride brought us to the silver capital of Mexico - Taxco. A wonderful colonial gem that is too often merely thought of as a day-tripper's shopping paradise. Several nights stay proved otherwise.
Finally, we rode into Mexico City and took in the sights and pleasures of the most cosmopolitan of Mexican cities. |
| 3407 Visits
28 Images
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Guatemala (August 1994)From the colonial charms of Antigua to the colossal remains of the ancient city of Tikal, Guatemala is easily the most intriguing and culturally diverse country in Central America.
Beginning in Antigua - the touristic epicenter of the Guatemalan Highlands - we ventured out along the "gringo trail" to take in the serene beauty of Lake Atitlan, plunged into the classic market atmosphere of Chichicastenango and absorbed the more traditional village life of Quezaltenango.
With a three-day, two-night mini-van journey over the Honduran border to the Mayan city of Copan and a two-day stay at the entrance to the jungle-shrouded ruins at Tikal, we managed - in two weeks - to take in many of highlights of this fascinating region. |
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32 Images
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Central Mexico and the Yucatan (June/July 1992)This Mexican journey combined several classic, Mexican colonial cities with the unrivaled splendors of the ancient cities of the Maya.
Beginning in Mexico City (and the nearby ancient city of Teohtihuacan), we wandered through the "Silver Cities" of central Mexico - San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato and Morelia - before flying off to the Yucatan.
After a relaxing for a few days on the island of Isla Mujeres (the laid-back neighbor of Cancun), we drove down the coast to Playa del Carmen and then onto the ruins of Coba and Chichen Itza. |
| 3480 Visits
37 Images
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Kohl Family Photos | Old photos of the Kohl clan. |
| 25 Visits
100 Images
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Two Sissies in Guatemala (August 1994)| A video of us battling a spider in the shower of our bungalow at the Jungle Lodge in Tikal, Guatemala. |
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Peru Oddities (August 2010) | 7 Visits
14 Images
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