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Bolivia
We spent nearly two weeks in Bolivia with an additional week-long trip to Peru sandwiched in between.  

We jump-started our trip in La Paz, the highest capital city in the world. (We actually never stayed anywhere in Bolivia that was under 9,000 feet!)  From there we traversed the altiplano to Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca and then to Aegean-like island of Isla del Sol. After catching our breath (literally) for a few days on Isla del Sol, we returned to La Paz and flew down to its sister capital - Sucre.  

From Sucre we visited the colorful Tarabuco market, the amazing Cal Orko dinosaur prints and the dizzingly high-altitude city of Potosi.

We returned to La Paz, crammed our suitcases with our last-minute purchases from Calle Sagarnaga and talismen from the Witches' Market and prepared, reluctantly, to go home.
Date(s): July 2005. Album by David Kohl. Photos by David Kohl. 1 - 41 of 41 Total. 986 Visits.
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Enlarge photo 1

La Paz
Panoramic view of La Paz with Mount Illimani in the background.  La Paz, at an altitude of about 12,500 feet, is the highest capital in the world. It has a population of nearly 1 million people.

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Plaza Murillo
A late afternoon view of the Plaza Murillo in La Paz.  The large yellow building in this photo is El Congresso.  La Paz is the governmental capital of Bolivia; Sucre is the judicial capital.

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Woman with baby
Bolivian Indian chola dress walking across the Plaza Murillo.  The baby is carried in the aguayo (the brightly decorated cloth) that is slung across her back.  The bowler hat became common attire for Indian women in the 1930's.

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Calle Sagarnaga
Calle Sagarnaga is one of the main tourist streets in the city of La Paz.  Its cobble-stoned street is lined with stores, restaurants and small hotels.

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Store in the Witches' Market
No visit to La Paz would be complete without a visit to the Mercado de Hechiceria (Witches' Market) in the center of La Paz off Calle Sagarnaga.  Stores are stocked with talismans and amulets - from naked cermaic couples (for an improved sex life) to dried frogs (for money).

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Llama fetuses for sale
It is estimated that 99% of Bolivian famiies have a dried llama fetus under the foundation of their homes.  It is put there for good luck.

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Offerings
Plates of sweets and dried herbs arranged as offerings for good luck.

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Boulders on the road to the airport
The road to the airport was recently blocked by protesters using large boulders.  When the protests subsided, the protesters placed (we don't know how) the boulders atop columns along the side of the road - in case they need them again?

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Women in Tarabuco
The Tarabucenos are not strictly speaking an ethnic group.  Rather it is the name that the Spanish gave to all the diverse indigenous communities that surround Tarabuco.

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Boy with his wheel
On the streets of Tarabuco on market day, this boy was having fun simply playing with a bicycle wheel.

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Vegetable market in Tarabuco
Although the market draws many tourists, it is principally geared towards the indigenous people of the surrounding villages.  They often bargain by an Andean system known as "trueque" -a non-monetary trade of agricultural products according to standard ratios - potatoes for maize, etc.

Enlarge photo 12

Tarabuco men at the market
The Tarabuco men commonly wear these distinctive hats known as monteros - patterned after the Spanish conquistadore's helmets - along with brightly striped woolen ponchos and three-quarter length white trousers.

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At the market
Local women wait beside a pick-up truck for a ride back to their home village.

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Market in Tarabuco
The town of Tarabuco - located near the southern Bolivian capital of Sucre - hosts one of the country's largest markets every Sunday.

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Tarabuco woman and her donkey
A close-up of a Tarabuco women wearing a distinctive black pillbox hat with a flap covering her neck and sequin fringe spilling over her forehead.  Her hat is topped with a colored woolen pom-pom.

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Entrance to Cal Orko Park
A couple miles outside of Sucre is Cal Orko - home to one of the world's largest collection of dinosaur footprints.

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Cal Orko Park
The footprints were discovered in 1994 by the workers at a local cement works and limestone quarry.  It is still an active quarry so all visitors to Cal Orko are required to wear hardhats.

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Wall of dinosaur footprints
Approximately 5,000 prints from over 150 different types of dinosaur can be seen at the park.  The row of prints (running at a right angle from the bottom of the hill to the top) can be seen here.

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Close-up of footprints
The prints were made between 65 and 85 million years ago on a flat bed of mud.  About 25 million years ago as the Andes began to rise, this floor of prints rose up vertically to become a wall of prints.

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Hostal de Su Merced in Sucre
Described in many guidebooks as the best hotel in Bolivia, the Su Merced is housed in an 18th century mansion.  None of the sixteen rooms are alike but each has its own special charms.

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Relaxing
Hanging out on our patio.

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View of Cerro Rico in Potosi
In the 17th century, Potosi was one of the richest cities in the world due to the enormous amount silver dug out of the Cerro Rico (the cone-shaped hill dominating the background).

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Potosi
At an altitude of more than 13,000 feet, Potosi and its 120,000 live in one of the highest cities in the world.  Even at noon on the sunniest of days, there is still a chill in the air.

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Estrecho de Tiquina
On the road from La Paz to Copacabana - the main Bolivian town on the shores of Lake Titicaca - there is a stretch of water  (Estrecho de Tiquina) that separates the Copacabana peninsula from the rest of Bolivia.  Passengers must disembark from their bus and take a small boat across the strait while their empty bus (as seen here) is placed on its own barge for the crossing.  This is now standard procedure after a barge capsized and sent the bus and many of its passengers to the bottom of the lake.

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Ticket booth for boat to Isla del Sol
At the beach at Copacabana, passengers purchase boat tickets for the 2-3 hour crossing across Lake Titicaca to Isla del Sol.  The boats leave twice a day.

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Boat to Isla del Sol
The boats carry passengers on the simple benches on the top of the boat as well as inside the boat.  The crossing can be quite rough on windy days.

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Mountains along Lake Titicaca
The snow-covered peaks of the Cordillera Real loom over the shores of Lake Titicaca.  At 12,500 feet, Lake Titicaca is one of the world's highest navigable lakes.

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View from Isla del Sol
Isla del Sol, according to Inca legend, is the birthplace of the sun.  It is also where the first Incas - Manco Capac and his sister/wife Mam Ocllo - mystically appeared.

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Isla del Sol rest
After arriving in the small town of Yumanni, you must climb a steep Inca staircase to reach the main footpath.  At 13,200 feet, this climb can leave you winded.  Youngsters can be hired for a small fee to help carry your knapsacks up the staircase and to your hotel.

Enlarge photo 30

Path on Isla del Sol
There are no vehicles on the island.  Walking is the main way to get around.

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Lake Titicaca view
Many of the views around the island remind visitors of Greek islands in the Aegean Sea.  This view seems especially Mediterranean.

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View of bay on Isla del Sol
The island is only about 13 miles long and 5 miles wide.  It is the largest of the 40 or so islands in Lake Titicaca.

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Haystacks on Isla del Sol
There are only three small settlements on the island.  Most of the residents still lead a traditional lifestyle based on fishing, herding and cultivating the ancient Inca agricultural terraces.

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View from Isla del Sol to Copacabana
Isla del Sol has only 2,500 year round residents.  Although there is electricity on the island, there are no water pumps. Islanders must carry up their water from the lake to their houses every day.

Enlarge photo 35

Copacabana Cathedral
The was originally built in 1589 and 1669 to house the miraculous Virgen de Copacabana.  The "Moorish Cathedral" dominates the main plaza in Copacabana.

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Ch'alla
Every morning - at about 10:00 a.m., cars and buses line up in the plaza outside the Cathedral waiting to be blessed by a priest.  The ritual is known as ch'alla.  The vehicles are often decorated in brightly colored garlands and flowers.

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Vendor outside the Cathedral
Ch'alla participants can purchase decorations and sparkling wine for their vehicles from the stands that line the plaza outside the Cathedral.

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Priest's blessing
The priest circles the van, dousing it with holy water - both inside and out.

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Dousing a bus
Ch'alla is popular with long-distance bus companies with a new fleet - especially during the Good Friday to Easter weekend.

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Offering of alcohol
A ritual offering of alcohol is sprayed over the vehicle thereby consecrating the vehicle for its journey home.

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"Good Luck" dolls
At a Cathedral stand, owners can purchase these "good luck" dolls for their cars or buses.

 
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