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Bagan, Myanmar
Bagan - Myanmar's premiere archeological destination - streams out over 25 square miles and contains an astonishing array of more than 2,000 temples.

Not as well known as Cambodia's Angkor Wat but every bit as impressive. There is nothing like surveying the Bagan plain from a temple-top perch at twilight.  Nothing.  The setting sun plants chiaroscuristic kisses on all buildings within its reach.  Beautiful and calming.

Unfortunately, Myanmar's military government is in the process of creating replicas of many of the temples atop unexcavated ruins. (Their idea of "restoration".) The result is a Disneyfication (pretty, but characterless) of these historic gems.  Go before more irreparable damage is done.
Date(s): July 2007. Album by David Kohl. Photos by David Kohl & Ross Rosenberg. 1 - 46 of 46 Total. 6208 Visits.
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Enlarge photo 1

Shwe Zigon Pagoda
This is one of the earliest surviving pagodas on the Bagan plain.  Estimated to date from 1087, the stupa's bell-shape is said to be the prototype for most stupas throughout Myanmar.

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Shwe Zigon Pagoda
Classic Myanmar style pagoda.  Pagodas are cone-shaped monumental structures built in memory of the Buddha.  There is actually very little useable interior space in these pagodas.

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Gubyaukgyi Temple
The name of this temple is an undeniable mouthful. It dates from 13th century and constructed in the "Indian" style.

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View over the Bagan plain
Horse carts, bicycles and walking are the main ways of getting around the plain of Bagan.  Horse carts can be seen approaching the base of this temple.

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Bagan View
Some sources state that there were - at one time - over 13,000 temples erected on the Bagan plain.  Other sources says that there were originally only a little more than 4,000.

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Bagan view
There are daily 1-hour flights from Yangon to Bagan (Nyaung U). Otherwise it can take up to 12 hours by bus. In the low season, the one-way fare was under $60US.

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Market at Nyaung U
Women grinding bark from a thanakha tree.

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Girl with thanakha make-up
Thanakha paste is a combination of moisturizer, suncreen and perfume that most women apply to their faces.  At night, some women cover their entire bodies with the paste.

Enlarge photo 9

Bamboo shoots
Woman at market chopping bamboo root.

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Women with a cheroot
Cheroots are the local hand-rolled cigarette/cigar.

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Market vendor at Nyaung U

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Mother, daughter and baby
Family waiting outside one of the temples.  The little girl is in traditional dress and make-up.

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Sulamani Temple
This temple was built in 1183 AD.  It is one of the first and most important temples built during the late period (1170 - 1300 AD) of Bagan's monument building.

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Buddha
Every pagoda usually contains four Buddhas - one facing each direction.  This view is of one of the Buddhas in the Htilominlo Temple constructed in 1218 AD.

Enlarge photo 15

Offering
Offering area and electric lights at the base of a Buddha.  Not sure what is going on here.

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Lacquerware
The frame of the lacquerware piece is formed by wrapping together thin strips of bamboo.  In finer pieces it is tied together with horse hairs.

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Lacquerware
Several coats of lacquer are applied to the frame (sometimes up to 15 coats).  It is sanded, then engraved and hand-painted.

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Lacquerware drying
Drying area for the lacquerware.  Bowls and cups made with horse hair are flexible; those made only with bamboo are stiffer.

Enlarge photo 19

Ayeyarwady view
The 1200-mile long Ayeyarwady River flows past Bagan - connecting Mandalay with Yangon.

Enlarge photo 20

Restaurant sign
What would you order?  Not only is the Burmese alphabet completely different from Western alphabets, the numbers are also unrecognizably unique.

Enlarge photo 21

Kids of Bagan
At almost every temple, children will approach tourists and ask them to buy postcards or trinkets.  It can be a soft sell or hard sell depending on the personalities of the kids.

Enlarge photo 22

Seinnyat Nyima and Seinnyet Ama Temples
Also know as the "two sisters" temples.  They were constructed by two Seinnyet Queen sisters during the 11th century.

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Ananda Temple
The Ananda Temple was built in 1090 and contains four large, standing Buddhas.

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View from the sunset temple
Shwesandaw Pagoda is the most common viewpoint for sunset gazing.  Unfortunately, the afternoon we were on top of this temple more clouds than sun prevailed.

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Sunset view
Most of the temples were constructed between the 11th and 13th centuries.

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New temple
This is one of the newer temples built alongside one of the ancient temples.

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Sesame plant
Seeds from a sesame plant.

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Sesame oil
Sesame seeds being ground into sesame oil - the old-fashioned way, using an ox.

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Sesame oil

Enlarge photo 30

Peanut plant

Enlarge photo 31

Cotton plant

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Distillery
Palm sugar distillery.

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Tour stop
With our guide Ko Oo (Kyaw Lwin Oo). A car (with a driver) and a guide can be hired for $35US a day.

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Tea break
An assortment of pickled tea leaves, roasted garlic, roasted peanuts and toasted sesame seeds were served with our tea.

Enlarge photo 35

Mount Popa
This 2,500 foot tall outcropping -believed to be the remaining core of an extinct volcano - is often referred to as the Mount Olympus of Burma.

Enlarge photo 36

Mt Popa vendors
The Mahagiri Shrine atop Mt Popa is the most important "nat" worship site in the country.  37 mannequin-like nat figures are on display at a museum at the base of the shrine.

Enlarge photo 37

Nat
These nats are historical figures who endured a violent or unjust death.  They have specific attributes and help devotees overcome specific problems.  This nat died of alcohol intoxication.

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Atop Mt Popa
View (with monkey) from the top of Mt Popa.

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Mt Popa

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Mother and baby

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Stairway poo
It takes about a half hour to walk up to the top of the shrine.  As in all shrines, you walk barefoot.  Unfortunately, at this shrine, monkeys are plentiful...and so are their feces (as can be seen here).

Enlarge photo 42

Vendors at Mt Popa
Vendors selling rocks (petrified and volcanic) troll the main street in front of the entrance to the shrine.  And who can resist?

Enlarge photo 43

Bagan Thande Hotel
View of our room at the riveside Bagan Thande Hotel (www.baganthande.com) in Old Bagan.  In the low season, we paid less than $60 US a night with breakfast for a room with a river view.

Enlarge photo 44

Grounds at the Bagan Thande Hotel
This shaded area provided a prefect sunset viewing spot along the Ayeyarwady River.

Enlarge photo 45

Ayeyarwady River View
View from the front of our hotel of the Ayeyarwady River.

Enlarge photo 46

Ayeyarwady Boat

 
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