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Juliana Jewelry-The Last Generation
1. Juliana Jewelry-The Last Generation  (March 21, 2016)
JULIANA JEWEWLRY-THE LAST GENERATION
by Paula Knutson and Karla Wacker

Juliana Jewelry - The Last Generation Delizza & Elster 1970-80's Identification & Values by Paula Knutson & Karla Wacker focuses on the little known jewelry of the last 20 years DeLizza & Elster Inc. This 328 page book presents their high style designs of the 70's & 80's like a magazine fashion spread - on models with fronts & backs. Theme lines for Asian/Oriental, Egyptian Revival, Etruscan, Fox Hunting, Fraternal and Western. Rare slave bracelets, rings, duettes, ear wraps, hair jewelry, and belts beyond imagination. Over 60 pages of front & back figurals. Not to disappoint, some of the most rare and desirable rhinestone sets are included, as well as many never before published pieces. The book will delight and surprise seasoned collectors and provide a thorough variety of examples for those new to the fabulous five decades of DeLizza & Elster, Inc. with over 1500 color pictures. This book is a paper back.



With the decline in popularity of rhinestone costume jewelry in the late 60’s, DeLizza & Elster had positioned itself in new areas of fashion accessories.  Primarily, belts and buckles, shoe buckles and boot chains, metal and large plastic cabochon lines and big cast pendant necklaces.

Their regular jewelry customers had little interest in their belt & shoe accessories, but they sourced new customers who did well in these venues and various wholesalers soon found them.

As many jewelry manufacturing companies closed their doors or sold their companies, D&E changed with the times to meet the demands in new trends.  So for the next twenty years of the 70’s and 80’s, the company continued making jewelry with lines that were more youth oriented, chunky and bold. They incorporated ball chain, beading, plastics, epoxy and many cast pieces using minimal stoning.  Themed and charm jewelry had a good market.  We call these years “The Last Generation.”

Our information is based on the text of “DeLizza and Elster Inc. Memoirs of a Fashion Jewelry Manufacturer” by Frank R. DeLizza

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JEWELRY RING BOOK REVIEW
2. JEWELRY RING BOOK REVIEW  (March 17, 2005)
--THE JEWELRY RING BOOK REVIEW--

An ongoing feature of the Jewelry Ring which will better equip us in our endeavors to add quality vintage costume jewelry books to our present individual libraries.


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Cow: MY BEST TRIFARI
3. Cow: MY BEST TRIFARI  (July 4, 2011)


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Cow: TRIFARI BIRDS & FLOWERS
4. Cow: TRIFARI BIRDS & FLOWERS  (June 22, 2010)

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Cow: DELIZZA & ELSTER JULIANA JEWELRY
5. Cow: DELIZZA & ELSTER JULIANA JEWELRY   (January 13, 2010)
Many of you may not realize it but Cheryl Killmer was the one who really started the ball rolling on the research of DeLizza & Elster Juliana Jewelry..Please read her short bio below:

"I started collecting D&E about 25 years ago when my girlfriend got me going to the Kane County Flea Market.
One of our mutual work friends found out I was interested in costume jewelry and showed me a bracelet she said "was not her style". It was astoundingly brilliant with deep emerald green and AB rhinestones. She sold it to me for $5.00!

As I refined my jewelry buying I noticed that a lot of the beautifully colored rhinestone bracelets I bought had the same kind of links so I looked for more of them. Back then they were easy to find and because they were not signed, usually were relatively inexpensive by comparison to some other jewelry.

As I collected them, sometimes a piece at a time, I started to be able to tell the matching pieces without having the bracelets. Since then I have been putting together the sets and parures whenever possible.

Fast forward to 2000 when I first opened my web site. I belonged to Jewel Collect but never had anything much to post for "show and tell" so I posted some of my favorite sets and parures. There was a big flurry of interest and people showed images of their own pieces. Several people had the five link bracelets with paper-tags of "Gloria" and "Tara". Then a couple people showed "Juliana" tagged jewelry. Because we didn't then know if one company or many made the different sets, we called it all "Juliana style" which gave collectors a way to search for it on-line. Interest skyrocketed.

In 2002 I was surfing eBay and came across an auction purporting to be Juliana. I noticed that the seller referred to Frank DeLizza and the company DeLizza and Elster as having manufactured the Juliana jewelry. She turned out to be Kassi Mercy and Kassi put me in touch with Frank DeLizza. He and I spent a few hours on the phone after he had looked at my web site and was amazed at how much I had collected.

I knew immediately this would make a great article for the VFCJ magazine and got in touch with Lucille Tempesta. Lucille set up a meeting at the DeLizza's home and I decided I had to be there too, so flew in to New York and off Lucille, Anna Ferreira and I went. The DeLizzas was so hospitable - we stayed over night and talked non-stop about his company and the jewelry. Lucille had her magazine formats set to go so we had to keep the whole thing under wraps until the Juliana article came out in 2003. The rest, as they say, is history."

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Cow: HOLLYCRAFT
6. Cow: HOLLYCRAFT  (August 9, 2008)

Hollywood Jewelry a/k/a Hollycraft

Dear JR Members:
I am truly delighted that JR elected to feature COW as Hollycraft this week. If my father were alive, he would be absolutely tickled to know that so many people appreciate his jewelry. I regret that my participation has not been what I would have liked, but my computer had a complete melt down and my email was not cooperating.
In honor of my father, along with his two partners and other family members, I hope and plan is to be able to donate my collection of Hollycraft to a museum sometime in the future. A number of costume jewelry collectors have already been kind enough to donate Hollycraft either as an outright gift or heavily discounted. As life has been so hectic, my plan to create my own website for Hollycraft has been delayed. I finally targeted this fall as my launch. Of course, it will be going up in segments as my collection of jewelry, artwork and photographs is rather large.

My father, Joseph Chorbajian began Hollywood Jewelry in 1936. As good fortune, determination and talent were in his favor, his company began to grow so he encouraged his cousins, Jack Hazard (formerly Hazardabedian) and Arshag “Archie” Chorbajian, to join him, thus in 1939 they became part of the Hollywood family. Through the years many members of the family worked at Hollywood either full time, part time or summer time—myself included.

I began going with my father to work when I was really young, probably 8 or 9 when the factory was located at 902 Broadway. My first paying job was in the summer of 1959 while I was in high school. I continued through the years working at the factory until I finally went out into the world on my own. My only true regret is that none of us ever thought about the future so all the beautiful sets that were created never got saved, particularly the beauties that were manufactured and unsigned in the 1940’s. In addition, I had access to all the big names in costume jewelry manufacturing and could have collected any number of pieces of jewelry that we are all seeking out today. Hindsight was never more 20-20 then this.

My father, mother, and all the senior members of the business were survivors of the Genocide of 1915-1917 in Turkey. They came to the United States poor, but determined to make a great life for themselves. I am happy and proud to say that all of these wonderful people lived their dreams to the fullest. They not only lived good lives, but made many major contributions to both their newly adopted country and their community. My father, for one, was the first campaign chairman for the building and development of St. Vartan’s Armenian Cathedral Complex that graces Second Avenue between 34th and 35th Streets in New York City.

One question that comes up quite often in costume jewelry circles is the Hollywood-Hollycraft name. As I noted, Hollywood Jewelry Manufacturing Company was the original name of the company. Along the way, confusion developed between Joseph of Hollywood (East Coast) and Josef of Hollywood (West Coast). It was therefore decided that Hollywood East would use Hollycraft as its logo. The official name of the company remained Hollywood Jewelry until it was sold in the 1978-1979 period. It lasted approximately 10 more years and closed.

I hope all of you who are interested in Hollycraft will continue to acquire and enjoy it. I know that every time I receive a new piece my first reaction is to hear the sounds of the factory and sense the smell of the glue. How fortunate I am to have such wonderful memories.
I have posted quite a number of pieces to Judi Bollan’s ImageEvent—thank you Judi. I apologize that the pictures are not what I would like them to be—something that will be changing this fall. These pictures are from eBay wins, internet sites and sent to me by thoughtful collectors. Again, thank you one and all. Joyce, The Hollycraft Lady
To See Some of Joyce the Hollycraft Lady's Collection Please click on this Link

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Cow: NAPIER
7. Cow: NAPIER  (June 4, 2008)


NAPIER was founded in 1875 and through some names changes finally became NAPIER in 1922. They shifted emphasis to jewelry after WW1 and stayed in business until 1999. During the 1950's & 60's NAPIER produced a wide variety of chunky charm bracelets which became very popular and are sought after today. Enormous cuff bracelets,smashing bibs and "over the ear" clips were some of their best sellers. NAPIER was the oldest fashion jewelry house in the US.

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Cow: EISENBERG
8. Cow: EISENBERG  (December 28, 2007)

This album will contain many examples of Eisenberg jewelry from Bobye Syverson's personal collection, and also from other members of the Jewelry Ring..Please read Bobye's very informative five page interview where she discloses a wealth of Eisenberg facts and shares more of her collection.

Bobye would also like to give special recognition to Pat Seal for her diligent efforts in helping Bobye out with securing the Vintage Eisenberg Ads.

*Bobye's Interview*

Approx. Dates for signatures:

Eisenberg Original 1935-1945

Eisenberg Sterling 1943-1948

Eisenberg E in Block 1942-1945

Eisenberg Block 1945-1958

Eisenberg Ice in Caps & Block 1945-1950

Eisenberg Ice in Script 1970-Present

Eisenberg © 1955 & after

Unsigned Eisenberg 1958-1970

Interview with Karl Eisenberg:
*Collectors Weekly*

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JEWELRY RING MALL
9. JEWELRY RING MALL  (February 22, 2005)

Welcome to The Jewelry Ring Mall.

The shops featured in our Mall offer an excellent variety of vintage and vintage costume jewelry from Victorian to Glitz.

You will find Art Deco, Miriam Haskell, Mexican Silver, Native American, Eisenberg, Trifari, Coro, Weiss, Florenza, Juliana, Bakelite, etc., and much more.

Shop owners are members of the Jewelry Ring, an online group that discusses and studies vintage and vintage costume jewelry.

VISIT THE JEWELRY RING MALL BLOG

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Cow: MARCEL BOUCHER
10. Cow: MARCEL BOUCHER  (July 23, 2006)
BOUCHER, MARCEL (1899-1965)

Marcel Boucher was born in Paris in 1899. He worked for Cartier first in Paris then in New York in 1925. Five years later he joined Mazer Bros. where he worked until 1937 in which year he founded his own company,Marcel Boucher Ltd. Novelty Jewelry in New York. Then in 1944 it became known as Marcel Boucher & Cie.

January 22, 1965 Marcel Boucher died at the age of 66.

Sandra Boucher, his wife, ran the company until 1972. In 1972 the company is sold to Davorn Industries and later to others. D'Orlan is a Montreal based company that legitimately reproduces many of Boucher's jewels. Their jewels are marked D'Orlan with Boucher's design inventory number.

Numbering system:

c.1945 2300-2350

c.1946 2351-2450

c.1947 2451-2550

c.1948 2551-2750

c.1949 2751-3000

c.1950 3001-3500

c.1951 3501-4500

1960: 7802

1962: 8291

1965: 9100

Marks with the copyright symbol © are after 1955

Signatures used: MB with or without the Phrygian cap,Boucher and Marcel Boucher.

The Marboux mark,written in cursive and preceded by one star, was recorded in 1955 as the name of a new line, at a low cost of $1-$5, for tailored jewelry.

Parisina mark on Sterling made in Mexico during WW2.

Some of the later pieces that are parts of sets have the number and "P" for Pin, "E" for Earring or "N" for Necklace.

AVON of BELLEVILLE: Much of AVON of BELLEVILLE jewelry was designed by Boucher and although having the AVON of BELLEVILLE signature also has Boucher's signature 4-digit design numbers. For a more in depth discussion of AVON of BELLEVILLE please visit Luda Tovey's Imageevent site:
AVON of BELLEVILLE

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JEWELRY RING ARTISANS MALL
11. JEWELRY RING ARTISANS MALL  (April 10, 2006)

The Jewelry Ring proudly presents to you these amazing works of art from our talented Jewelry Artisans.. Please stop by their shops to see some of the most gorgeous Artisan jewelry you will have the pleasure of not only viewing but purchasing..

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Cow: BUTTERFLY WING JEWELRY
12. Cow: BUTTERFLY WING JEWELRY  (January 23, 2006)
"The old pieces date from the twenties and thirties and are English. Most of them are brooches, and a smaller number are pendants (judging by size, and the fact that charm bracelets were not popular in the twenties). Although the patent for reverse-painted jewelry with a butterfly-wing background was issued earlier, the jewelry became popular in 1924 because of an exhibit at the British Empire Exhibition by the firm Thomas L. Mott (the same company as TLM, known to charm-lovers for their enamels). Hoffman started making butterfly-wing jewelry in the late thirties and is still making it, I believe, pretty much all hex signs at this point. The quality is fairly good, though not what it was--and nothing is hand-painted, as all the old English stuff was." Joan Munkacsi

"There are two that I see (99% of the time that is). Made in England- probably the most typical and usually set in sterling silver. These are the ones that seem to be the most desirable, at least for me anyway. and Hoffman- an American company. is what their Hallmark looks like. They are Frederick S. Hoffman and Company, and out of New York, NY right around 1930-40. I have seen these set in sterling silver, and in white metal with rhodium (stay-bright) finish. I also see the ones that have scenes of Rio on them- and they always seem to be marked 800 or 900 silver." Carolyn Sunday

According to Warman's Jewelry: "A unique type of collectible jewelry, which appears to be attracting to a growing number of collectors, originated in England.However, its primary component, the wings of the Morpho butterly, came from South America. Several British firms made these pieces, which usually consist of a reverse-painted scene or a white sulphide bas-relief(reminiscent of Wedgewood jasperware) backed with an iridescent blue butterfly wing ground, a domed glass cover, and usually a sterling silver frame and back. The backs are often marked with a British patent number, granted to Shipton & Co. of Brinmingham, England in 1923." That is found on page 137 and there is an unusual yellow butterfly wing pin pictured on the same page." Lilly Vittetow.

"Unfortunately, the delicate material of the butterfly wing is subject to deterioration and many of the old pieces have spots of deterioration or are completely deteriorated.The giveaway is dead spots in the lovely irridescense, a rusty or dirty appearance. Under magnification these areas of scales will appear "ruffled" in comparison to the undamaged areas." Jan Gaughan

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Cow: BRUNIALTI BOOK PIECES
13. Cow: BRUNIALTI BOOK PIECES  (January 15, 2006)
FROM: "American Costume Jewelry
1935 - 1950" and
"A Tribute to America - Costume Jewelry 1935-1950" both By Carla and Roberto Brunialti.

Review by Adrienne Shivers:
Even though this book is in Italian, I consider it 'must have'. The jelly belly collection pictured is worth the price alone. The really rare pieces are pictured here and if you are serious about higher-end vintage costume, you need this book, just to see those pieces and what collectors are willing to pay high $$$ for and why. It's definitely more of a visual experience and you really see the artistry of vintage jewelry in its hey day.
There is a sequel book by the same authors, in English, which came out in 2002. Same format, covers event more designers with a special focus on patriotic theme jewelry. Even more desirable and certainly more current than the first. Titled "A Tribute to America - Costume Jewelry 1935-1950".

Review by Sam Mitchell:
Carla and Roberto Brunialti have put together one of the best books out there on the Golden Age of American Costume Jewelry 1935 - 1950.  A ton of work and research went into this book, because Every Picture in the book has the US patent number with it, if there is one for it.

The one drawback to the book is that its all in Italian. Originally written for the Italian market
who are avid collectors of American costume jewelry of this time period, the book has gained world wide attention and is sold out and out of print. A good copy, if you can find one, will cost you $80.00, That’s how popular the book has become.

With the popularity of their first book,  Carla and Roberto have come out with a English verison
of their first book called “A Tribute to America  Costume Jewelry 1935 - 1950" that I am told is even better then the first, and as hard to find!
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Cow: MONET
14. Cow: MONET  (January 10, 2006)
A BRIEF HISTORY OF MONET by Jim Katz.

Brothers Jay & Michael Chernow founded Monocraft in 1927. Monocraft began using the name Monocraft in May of 1927... They made high
quality gold plated metal initials that stores attached to handbags at the
time of purchase.

Their success and reputation for high quality monograms led them to produce
jewelry as early as 1935 (first patent)..

(Other information has said that  Monet was another mark used by Monocraft Products beginning in 1937. Monocraft [using that name] continued in business for many more years. The name Monet was first used in Sept 1937 on various kinds of fashion/costume jewelry. So any jewelry marked Monet is no older than 1937.Contributed by Pat Seal).

During the 1940's most of the jewelry was gold plated sterling (vermeil).
They were famous for their modern designs as well as some amusing enameled
pins (see Cathy Gordon's post with the enameled hand  pin).
Average prices in the '40s were $12-$20.00 dollars for bracelets, necklaces
& brooches & $4-$7.50 for earrings.  

Groundbreaking inventions came with the Friction Ear Clip (1947 patent) that
allowed the wearer to adjust the clip to the right tension w/o constant
pressure on the ear.  They later invented the Barrel Clutch for pierced
earrings - which is the industry standard. From the very beginning Monet
produced a full range of fashion earrings which they first referred to as
"Jewelry Clips" in their patents.   

In the 50's & 60's  Monet continued their success with classically styled
jewelry for clothes women were wearing to the office.  They were also
extremely successful with their charm bracelets with charms attached by
spring rings (http://tinyurl.com/ckl8m) so that they could mix and match.

Monet  was the first company to sign all their jewelry and still does to
this day.

Some of Monet's licenses were Shirley Temple, the Dionne quintuplets and
Yves St. Laurent.  

In 1977 Monet produced a line called Ciani with prices as high as $500.00

During the '60s & '70s Monet ran an ad campaign with hooded models wearing
only one fabulous piece of jewelry while other companies were scurrying to
stuff as much jewelry into an ad as possible.  This 20 year run of "Hooded
Woman"  ads is famous in both the Advertising business as well as in the
jewelry business. See Monet Ads  for examples of these
gorgeous ads.

In 1981 Monet launched a 4 year program with Yves St. Lauent w/designer
Sandy Miller Burrows (see Miller Confident Collector pg. 52 for entire
interview).  All cast parts were manufactured by Monet with stones and other
parts produced and set by different companies. Avg. prices for this line
were $25.00 to $250.00.  A number of items were  made in limited editions of
500 and marked as 80/500 to denote the 80th piece made.  Interesting note:
"The pieces that looked like poured glass were really built-up epoxy w/foil
backings.  All earrings in the YSL line used Monet's friction ear clip.  

Monet was always considered ahead of their time.  Their jewelry was always
classic, never trendy or faddish.  Many bracelets, brooches and Necklaces
contained flat metal areas that were intended for engraved initials. You
will see this in their patents.
See the gorgeous necklace on pg. 55 of Fifty Years of Collectible Jewelry
1925-1975 by Lillian Baker for an example of an adjustable collar with the
round flat slide engraved with initials.

Monet was acquired by General Mills in 1968, sold to Crystal Brands in 1989,
sold again to Chase Capital Partners and finally to Liz Claiborne in 2000.



Reference info. and examples can be seen in:
                 Price Guide to Costume Jewelry by Harrice Simons
Miller
                 Costume Jewelry by Fred Rezazadeh
                 Fifty Years of Collectible Fashion Jewelry by Lilian
Baker
                 Collectible Costume Jewelry  by Cherri Simonds
                 Popular Jewelry of the '60s, '70s & '80s
                 Costume Jewelry 101 by Julia C. Carroll
                 Silver Jewelry by Fred Rezazadeh
                 Costume Jewelry The Fun of Collecting by Nancy
Schiffer
                 Inside the Jewelry Box by Ann Mitchell Pitman
                 Milky Way Jewels for the vintage ads
                 

Stefanie Brawner
JEWELRY PATENTS.COM and click on Companies and then Monet to view Monet Patents.
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