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 Dinah Hoyt Taylor | Home > 
My Studio
Here are photos of my studio and my new bench I just finished this spring.
Date(s): Mar 20, 2011. Album by Dinah Taylor. Photos by Dinah Taylor. 1 - 671 of 671 Total. 2144 Visits.
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annealed and pickled, I cut out a section, trued it up and then overlapped it a bit, sawed through it, and soldered it seam down.

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Bridge I built to solder the seam.

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pickled and cleaned.

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filed, sanded and buffed inside and out.

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There are gaps, I know.

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Brass 'Both Sides of the Mountain' cuff for Sylvia.

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Added her initials.

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Piece of silver I reclaimed rolled.

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sawed it out.

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straightened out.

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stamped and pickled.

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seam soldered.

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too hot torch

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perfect 10-no splits---yet

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End result

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Harry and me.  My 64th birthday, Southern Pines, NC.

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Copper and antique venetian glass bead spinner ring on sterling wire for Megan

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soldering the other end of the wire I had to cover the bead with rock wool so that it would not shatter and then let it completely cool for 30 minutes

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After it cooled

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heavy 8 gauge copper twist cuff for Megan

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too wide for Megan

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Starting with  a 1" wide 15gauge copper section from a 6' 19th century steam pipe from a heating company in VA, I sawed through it.

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This shows the gauge of the pipe.

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I cleaned up the edges and heated it again.

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I heated it and hammered it flat.

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I rolled the annealed blank through my rolling machine with a piece of lace.  You only have one chance to roll it through, or you risk having the design muddled and confusing.

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The piece is now 18gauge.

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I domed and stamped it and used hammers to create ripples and designs and then buffed it on my buffer.

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After I buffed, I formed it.  This is the finished product.

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Showing stamping around domes.

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This is a 9" serving fork by SIMPSON, HALL, MILLER & CO - Wallingford, CT
Organized by Samuel Simpson in 1866. Part of International Silver Company in 1898.  I've had this for many years, and loved the nouveau workmanship on it.


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back

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After cutting off the tines, and shaping the flatter part into the shape of a tulip for spring, I annealed it many times, to get the right shape for my right wrist, and where it would lay.

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I've buffed the front but not the inside

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Now I've buffed outside and inside

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Here is the mark for Simpson Co. with Sterling to the right

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hay bale wire hangers for all boards

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simple and useable

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Hand made copper hooks for hats, and nails for keys.

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Keyboard vertical-100+ year old barn wood from my collapsed barn

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Horizontal view-original hand made square nail left in there

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two nails I just made out of 10 gauge copper wire.

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After I've heated with a torch and hammered the head, I mark my nails with 43 and ***.

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Fine Silver hammered, hand etched and formed pea pod earrings with 9mm cultured pearls for Linda Vogue.

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Start of bookchain necklace-copper 3/8" wide, with 9mm Sterling oval rings.  Eventually I will make one with all Sterling silver.  This will take a while.

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heart for Deb Ahrendt front 2 1/4x 2 1/4

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Here are the beads I have.  What do you want?  Let me know.

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Saturday am 26 October 2013 my temporary repair studio in my dining room with my bench

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Ready to move downstairs for the winter!

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Getting the bed put back together.

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All finished.  Now on to the studio.

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3" heart pine block 11.5" x12.6" from warehouse on Savannah river.  Originally these were 16 to 20' tall and used for the outside of old warehouses.  I wanted to use this to mount my Pepe forming stake on this so I drilled the holes for the base, and then 3 holes to pound in 4" nails so I could take off the top to move if necessary.

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This top block of heart pine weighs 10.5 POUNDS and is 3" x  11 1/2" wide x 13" long.
A friend of mine in SC and I bought an entire flatbed full of these planks for $750.00 back in 1966.  I used them for flooring and walls in an addition, she used hers for her home.  The guys that had to plane these planks were furious, because they kept ruining saw blades from the hidden spikes, which was totally understandable, but we all finally got the job done by at least going through and getting out the spikes and nails that were showing.  .


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Stake base put in with 3" lag screws

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Finished

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base of beam from barn. This is the bottom.  I glued and then nailed this piece to make it level, as trying to level a 12" x 12" beam piece was out of the question.  No table saw....

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Top of the base.  I added two wood pieces glued and nailed so that when I added the mid piece, it would not move or wiggle.  This process took about an hour, mostly to keep picking it up and putting it down and marking where the pieces went..

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base of the mid piece with strips of thin walnut that I had cut off the ends of the first bench top pieces, and a piece of cherry tongue and groove flooring to stabilize the mid piece.

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Adding a paint stick to make sure no movement of this.

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Top of mid piece, held in by two 12" cabin spikes that go through the mid piece and into the base 3".  The vise goes on this piece.

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Vise screwed in with 4" lag screws

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The latest beam section from the annex barn.  I punched out the beam pins and will chisel off the top section

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Edging all the way around with 1" chisel

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Getting close to finishing.

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YAY
This is the base for the forming stake shown above.


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Small block from beam I found.  Some animal was obviously scratching on this.  I'll sand this instead of planing.

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Sat. morning in studio

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Still not sure where everything will go, but I found a great site that Connie Fox from San Diego had on Pinterest that was what I was looking for.  We use many of the same tools so this was great.

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The beams stacked.  I've fiddled with these for 3 days now trying to figure out how to keep them stabilized, where to put the vise and forming stake, finally, thanks to Connie Fox's studio photos, I have a plan-okay I have said-IHAP for months now, maybe today I can get this done before I have to leave for work at noon.

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Two tables on West wall.

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Sewing repairing for horse blankets and leather repairs have to share this space.  I'd really like to have the entire studio in my dining room, because of the great light, but I sleep in there in the winter to save on heat.  Maybe someday.

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Before the second table was put in.

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The largest beam held my vise and forming stake but I want to change this to another configuration.

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My 19th century butcher block table that has held my 85 lb anvil and my steel block which I've still not been able to move, so it will have to stay there.  The rolling mill will be staying on there as well.

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I took the old sawhorses out of the annex barn and brought them over to the back porch.  I want to make another bench to hold my 12" guillotine shear, and my drill press.  I have to chisel off the top of the center 2x6.  The wide boards are on the right-18" and 19" wide by 1" thick.

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Starting the chiseling.  I found that using my trusty circular saw and going along the top would be a bit faster to chisel.

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Then I used my old Stanley hand plane to level as much as I can.

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All finished, but the legs are all different lengths.  I measured and wrote on the legs and in my notebook so I made sure I had the correct angle and then cut the taller ones down so both sawhorses were the same height.

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Testing how it will look.

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In studio before leveling legs

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I drilled holes all along the bottom board about 3" apart, and then marked them on the sawhorse so that I could drill the top board holes and alternate the nails.  I used square cut masonry nails.

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I tested 3 drill bits different sizes, to see which one would be best for the square cut nails which would hold tightly but not split the wood.  All of them are in, and they look fabulous to me.  They hold super tight, are flush, and since I have about 10 lbs. of them, I don't have to buy any for a long time.

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two new benches from this month.

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Walnut top boards, cherry stretcher and base and 4x4 PT's for legs.  23" wide, 31" tall and 58" long

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My new casting forms.  The stainless one is for round wire-2 side by side, and my crucible with a pour handle, and a black casting ingot mold.

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Here is the wider longer side for bracelets blanks (the stainless steel one)

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close up of the ingot mold.

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I melted the cleaned sterling scraps in a crucible with flux until melted.  The scraps were from my mother's damaged 1920s candlesticks, you can see the base to the right.

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further melting before pouring so that it goes in one pour keeping out bubbles.

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I carved a channel in a fire brick with a hammer and chisel and poured in the melted sterling scrap with flux.

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After getting the four billets out of each pour-they were approximately 1 1/2" x 3/4" w x 1/2" thick.  I hammered to flatten on my anvil, then annealed them with the torch and rolled through two times, then annealed again, and rolled two more times until I got them the thickness I wanted.

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After filing all edges and sanding before forming.

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My first one which is quite heavy and thick.  I love this, and have received many compliments on it, as well as the others.

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My first one.

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casting pieces from scrap-August 27, 2013

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top of the candlestick base for my next casting with my new torch

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Sterling footed cigarette dish-belonging to my father.  This was 4" long and 6 1/2" around.  I was pretty amazed that I could make a cuff out of something this small.  The disk at the bottom is 1 5/8" diameter and 5 1/2" circumference.

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Sterling mark on dish

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mark

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cut off tab and part of top

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cut off base with 'G'

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inside

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initial filing

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heating for feet

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made buttons out of feet.

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inside after filing, sanding and buffing

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outside after filing sanding and buffing

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After forming cuff

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side

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back

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front

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"WOW!"
View Comments...

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bases of MFT Sterling candlesticks with pitch removed.

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underside.  Gauge is between 19-21

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3/4" at center-5 1/2" diameter

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section I want to use for cuff

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embossing

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AAT  Andrew A. Taylor mark with Cartier underneath.  Silver plated copper engraving plate for my parents wedding announcement.
August 15, 1929


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2" Fine Silver fold formed cuff with Swarovski crystals.

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2" NuGold brass cuff fold formed

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2" fold formed and anticlast copper bangle with rock crystal and turquoise

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Started at 9:30am 4/3/13 cut out initial

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taped cutout covered with brass sheet ready to roll out initial.

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buffed initial with compound and heated with torch to get shades on the copper.

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Filed all edges with two grades of files, then used 4 different grits of fine sanding until totally smooth.  Shaped on anvil.

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After final buffing and shaping before washing

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Cleaned up and ready to pack up to mail.

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Top-stamped inside with year and my marks.

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Ready to ship!  10:45am.  Print card, label, wrap, make box, take to mailbox.  11:15am.

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Copper handles for under sink cupboards
"I love these! What a great..."
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copper handles for pantry cupboards

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Fine Silver and Cultured Pearl Peas in a Pod Earrings.

For Melissa Hatfield, Ziaggo Sporthorses, TX


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1 1/2" from top of earwire.  All pieces hand formed and made.

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Finished bead cap attached to one end.

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Close up.

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my new necklaces, featuring my handmade clasps and bead caps.

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This is just one side of the necklace.

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Bead cap formed and polished.

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Underside of bead cap.

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Showing where it will go so it covers the know of the silk thread.

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Another photo of the cap and strands of one side of the necklace.

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Fold Formed Burdock Leaf with coral, labradorite, Cultured Pearl, and Trade Bead Necklace.  Hand made clasp.

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Set for Erin Buffaline Mechanicsville NY

2 1/2" Fine Silver Cuff with Czech flowers, matching Fine silver ring, Fold formed Heart Earrings, and Pendant.


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Erin's earrings for her set, all finished.

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backs

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hanging

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After final buffing with ear wires and bail.

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Back.  The color on the heart you see is reflection of the ceiling beams.

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After sawing out heart pendant (3" x 3") and earrings (1 1/2" x 1 1/2"), filing, sanding.

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After drilling holes for bails, and flowers, and hammering in ruffles.

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Back of pendant with stamps.

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Back of earrings with L and R so they are put on correct ears.

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Very dimensional, and will lay perfectly.

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test piece for Erin in Copper.  Not the metal or colors of flowers I'm going to use, but just to let you see what the form/design is.  Piece is 2 1/4" x 2 1/4". heart with twisted silver bail pendant.

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Set for E. Buffaline

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2 1/2" wide Fine Silver Fold Formed cuff with vintage Swarovski Beads wired on.

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I finally got around to figuring out what to do with the 1/2 cut steel belt buckle with the gorgeous Robins Egg Blue cabs.  I made it into a barrette for myself.  I had to remove the findings on the back, and file off the edges, and then wired on the barrette back.  This is 4" with a slight dome and 1 1/4" wide.

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Back

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from top.

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Shown with measurement paper.  This shows that it was made from the customers measurement paper.

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approved for cuff 5/27/12

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43*** and DHT

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Handmade and Sterling

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Copper Fold Formed Cuff with Swarovski Crystals, in hot pink, black diamond and tourmaline.  2" wide.

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Test cuff.

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Barrette for Mary Ann Wilson.

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Test piece for Erin Buffaline.

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Full Copper Fold Formed Bangle with Turquoise and Rock Crystal with Sterling ends.

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Balanced Coverage, Brass Fold formed cuff.  Love to wear this.

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Brass Fold formed Cuff with Garnet bicones, Peridot RS bicones, and rough rock crystal.

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All tools I've resurfaced, remade, or made for working metal

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white pieces are Delrin stakes used with metal hammers for antic last design.  I still have work to do on these, but it takes a long time with round large files.  This stuff is unbreakable.

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Surfaces are always polished after filing and sanding

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Prong and stone and bezel tools and one with a design on the edge-8 gauge copper

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Carpet tool that I use for cutting 1" stall mats, and opening folded metal.  The three wavy tools behind are called Sinusoidal stakes.  I made these out of in line engine punches from Sears.  They are 14'. 9" and 6", and made with a large welding torch and acetylene bending with a pr of vise grips , cooling slightly and creating another bend.  They have to be cooled by leaving alone, not quenched, then sanded and buffed because metal has to be formed over these, so they have to be smooth.

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Very sharp edge.  I've sliced myself on this before.

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8 gauge copper wire made into stamps, bezel setters, prong and stone setting tools.

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The 2Cent tool I use the most.  I'm not sure what it was used for, but I sharpened it to razor sharp, sanded and polished.  It is steel, and I use it to open prongs and then closing them with the back of this.  This is similar to an oyster and clam opening tool we used in SC on the boats, but I've made it much thinner.

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Back of my 'scorper' which is what I call it.

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Very thin, very very sharp.

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Erin Buffaline's ring.  Argentium .999 silver and Czech flowers.

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Trish Poe, Marshall VA, restring 16 strand seed pearl necklace.

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First 4 strands.

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Citrine, Sterling cage, Brass ring.

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Shane's Christmas cuff

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Sean's Christmas Cuff

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Erin's ring blank

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Red top, alternating gold and clear on bottom.
For Kat Finderson


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Cynthia Fore Miller's ring

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"How about this ring for Me..."
View Comments...

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When I got this bracelet, it had several areas of Verdigris, and corrosion.

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This is the back

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Close up of the damage, after carefully removing as much of it as possible.  You can see the Verdigris has created a hole in one of the balls on the left side of the face panel on the left.

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After final hand sanding with 5 different fine grit cloths.

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Still showing corrosion and verdigris.  If left unchecked, and stored with other jewelry, this will spread and disintegrate other metals.  Although this is marked Sterling, the process of finishing in the pickle, was probably contaminated the sterling, and ended up plating it unknowingly.  You can see the hole in the ball better in this photo.

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After final buffing.

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Much better show of Sterling.  It will now be carefully stored in a baggie, and will develop a natural patina, which is NOT the same thing as Verdigris or Patina.  Patina is the natural oxidation by the air or wearing of the Sterling, which gives darker areas around the work.

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First 3 panels.

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mid section of bracelet.

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End of bracelet.

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Maker's mark.

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Back of bracelet.

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Vertical and clasped.

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Top view.

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3" x 2" copper fold formed leaves, and 12mm labrodite stone.

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backs of leaves

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Cuff from Gayla.  Lovely but a bit big-haha  The opening was about 3", so I knew it was going to have to be reformed.

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side view

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other side view.

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As you can see, this would work for a man but not most women.  It would have been about 9" or so.

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Finished cuff, formed to fit, and filed, sanded and buffed to 1500 grit, finished with Fabuluster.
"OMG,OMG,OMG Dinah this is ..."
View Comments...

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"I love this so much!"
View Comments...

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after pickling this is what I had.
"I cannot believe the trans..."
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I formed it to fit.
"great deconstruction expla..."
View Comments...

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inside, notice the thin lines around the top edge of the cuff.  This was a flat piece of stock that was soldered to another piece of stock that was pierced and sawn to create the design.

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After initial sanding with 320 grit.  You can see the lines, so I had to be really careful when annealling with the torch, so that the solder didn't melt.  I think they must have used hard solder, as it stayed in tact, but then just surface filed it with a jewelers file, and left it, so the edges were quite sharp and  coarse.

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This is about half way through the sanding, about 800 grit.

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It's getting better.

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Lines are starting to disappear.

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After micro papers about 1500.

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After polishing by hand with rubber grit stick

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Notice all the residue.  I washed in hot water and liquid soap with a battery powered toothbrush to remove the residue.

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Here are photos after it was cleaned up and I buffed it with Fabuluster and my buffing wheel.

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Unfinished ring on the side is going to be an open top box ring (these are made with an inner and outer ring with two sides, all soldered. I still have to hand saw the inside disk out, saw off the outside bottom plate, add the top plate, saw that off, add the stones, weave and solder the wire through weaving it so that the stones don't fall out.   This one will be an open top, with loose stones, and a sterling wire woven top.

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first side soldered on and inner and outer plate hand sawn off.  Then I placed it on the other plate, soldered and sawed it, drilled holes, and finished it before setting amber and wire.

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all finished.  Took lots of hand filing to smooth out all the edges.

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wire is soldered on one end inside, then pushed through one hole, through the bead, with a half knot and pushed down through the other side.

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on my little netsuke.

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Folded in half, brass heart for pendant.

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Before final buffing

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Final finished before bail.

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back.

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copper folded earrings before hammering.

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Finished, buffed.

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inside backs

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flat, before ear wires added.

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Sterling Silver Gallery Bezel set Agate on Sterling Silver 1 1/4" wide cuff.

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3 strands of 8gauge Sterling, Silver caps soldered on ends after twisting.  Preliminary finish.  Needs more.  3/8" diameter, 50 grams weight.

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Copper 6ga. twisted bangle for Sean with hammered ends and silver.  Funny how it resembles a horses head.  LOL

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2 3/8" long from top of ear wire, 1/2" at widest point, 3/8" deep, 4 dangling green cultured pearls.

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4" tall Anticlast Copper Cuff-After final buffing front

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Net Rolled Cuff with carnelian colored agate stone with bubbles-Name?

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mark inside back

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side view

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Deep red agate on hammered cuff-Name?
hot sun


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Front

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inside

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top

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mark

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Agate copper cuff, flame in the window.

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mark

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top

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front

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top

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brass, template, copper, tissue.  Template needs to be reversed.  The color printed logo, after it gets cut out, needs to face the brass, then the template, then the copper, then the tissue, taped together and then rolled.

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After turning copper over you can see the logo is facing the right direction.

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This is before sanding and buffing.  I'm using this as a test, but also as one of the wind chime clappers for Shane's windchimes.

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4" Fold Formed Cuff

for Daniel Day-Hamden, CT


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After final buffing front

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After final buffing

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before buffing top

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before buffing back

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before buffing front

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before buffing top

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before buffing

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Front after pickling

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Back inside after pickling

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Front after pickling

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Tools used for Dan Day's Cuff

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Final form before pickle pot sanding filing and buffing.

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front of final form

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graduations of forming cuff

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inside

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outside

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first form-this has been annealed 12 times because metal hardens and is unable to be worked without it.

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Front of first forming

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inside of first form

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annealing initial form which had to be changed

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first forming, had to be changed

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annealing after rolling

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rolling to reduce the gauge of metal

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after annealing first time

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first annealing

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Ready for first annealing

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The 14gauge pipe is 3" wide.  I was thinking of this the other day, but it's HUGE.  The copper piece behind is 4", the small copper piece is 2" and the brass cuff is 1 1/4".

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New bench I made out of wood (Pine, walnut and cherry) that I have been keeping for various projects.

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