Album of a Dodge Carryall. Body was WWII, stretched to fit the early 50s frame of a civilian Power Wagon. Will someday become a blue pick up, I've already bought the paint. Or maybe a steel framed woodie? But the blue is fersure.
Date(s): 2011. Album by chris case. Photos by chris case. 1 - 91 of 91 Total. 18513 Visits.
1 Backing it into the driveway. Next step, control the bees that have a hive in the gas tank.
I later decided to sell off the carryall parts, and pursue a civvy FFPW build.
2 Lift gate OK, tailgate may be OE skin, but is gutted, and skin NFG. Tailgate hinges are salvageable.
3 Left side has a couple of brackets welded on, need removal.
Boy, I sure wish that was red primer...
4 " Valuable parts" inside. Rear seats may be appropo, front seats are correct.
5 There is a bit of rust in the intermediate panel.
6 Weld seam up the cowl and across. Plus, heading under the widnshield, top of dash is a separate piece dfrom wither firewall or dash.
7 An electric fuel pump!
8 Fan, shroud, etc look good. Radiator is fubar on front. Engine did turn 180° with a hand crank.
9 Radiator damage. "DODGE" in fine shape. Winch bumper with extensions. PTO and shaft in there some where, front u-joint hack sawed to remove winch. A-frame brackets will unbolt.
10 Hydro-vac mounted to front fender, necessitating hacking up the hood. Otherwise hood was good, center hinge nice too.
11 Vent filter for hydra-vac I guess?
12 Dash with a coupkle gauges added. Note the overlap at the top.
13 Cross bows for top. Rusted away. But there are a few steel spacer 'knobs' that mounted the top plywood left.
14 Seat frame parts, maybe for back seats, haven't jig saw puzzled them yet.
15 A little bin on the inside of the 'stretch' panel. It has a wiper access cover and a filler neck w/ cap in side. Note the bullet holes.
16 Rear Shocks! I am SHOCKED!
17 Seat frames that were in it at time of purchase.
18 Passenger side frame, has supprt straps welded in. Pivot under front looks stock? Back folds pretty high, to make room for cushions when folded forward? I havn't freed up the front pivots yet.
19 Additional seat parts that were lose in the back at time of purchase. Single seat has longer tube legs than the seat that is in the truck.Jeep wagon maybe?
20 I've cut the sides loose, here we've laid the left side down. Next, carry it into the back yard for storage.
21 Temp ply wood chunks used as floor boards.
22 The heat from the back tires burning took ALL of the temper out of the springs. Plus, rear axle housing sagged, needs new springs and rear axle.
23 Frame sagged from the heat of the rear tires burning. Pic shows the 6x8, chain and jack used in attempt to straighten frame. It did work, but a whole rolling chassis seemed the better way to get all the parts I need.
24 Better pic of using a timber to unbend frame. Weight of body during the fire sagged the frame about 3 inches at the rear corners.
25 Most of this pile is the parts I will keep. The engine does turn over, tranny is later synchro 3&4.
26 Front fenders, no rust through. I'll need one more headlight.
27 Carryall body parts. PW running boards are repairable. "Cab' door frames may be used to make the stretched carryall a four-door. But I will use another cab from a pick-up for the front section.
28 Bee's nest inside gas tank. Tank rotted out.
29 I decided to build it into a pick-up truck. So I sold all the carry all specific parts and purchased another chassis and a cab.
30 Cab is rust free. But has many holes that need repair. This is where the cowl light ripped the cowl...
31 Hole in dash to suit the M37 instrument panel. Looks to have been done with an ax or over-sized can opener?
32 "Sun Roof", a hole the size of a fist.
33 Frame has been sandblasted, see"shop built tools" album for my 'tent'. Axles in epoxy primer, ready for finish satin Urethane.
34 Dust collector in the background, a pallet of springs and shock, mounts, u-bolt etc too.
35 Pallet of suspension parts, all ready to bolt on. Ought to have a rolling chassis later this week.
36 Stainless steel brake and fuel lines.
Two junctions with positions for brake light switches. I hop I guessed the right spots to put them, I THINK I know where the hydroboost will end up...
37
38 Aft section of lines. I did the whole fuel line in two pieces, coupled in the middle. The extreme ends are chamfered to accept clamped on hoses. Much flexibility that way.
39 back up light switch install. NP420. #S290Z in 'BWD' brand, NS11 in SMP.
Torqueflite neutral safety and back up light switch, 1963-1990.
Simple knock out the end plug, thread hole for 3/4x16 thread, and screw switch in.
40 Underfloor hydroboost install.
Looks like I need a new pic?
41 Bell crank system for the underfloor hydroboost. Pedal pull is on the rusty rod, bell crank converts pull to push into hydroboost. Rusty rod is only for temporary fit, will be replaced with an oversize fabrication. The hyroboost fits easier than the vacuum booster used on my previous project truck.
Hi-Tech blue transfer case isolator is a La-Crosse ball cut in half.
Booster push rod will get a shock boot before it hits the road.
42 Things are getting kind of busy, what with the dual brake lines, and soon three hydraulic lines. The blue bongee cord is only a temporary pedal return spring, Honest.
43 Does this pic show anything better than the last pic?
44 Power Steering and Alternator bracket. I prefer the pump under the alt, so leaks don't wreck the alternator. Plus the alt is easier to adjust when high, and the PS hoses are tucked in better.
45 Volvo pump with 'canned ham' reservoir. Will be replaced with a remote reservoir. Note alt tensioner bracket slides on other end, makes everything tuck in better. Alt is a CS131 Delco, supposed to have better low speed output due to 'square wave' regulator.
46 Bracket without the electron and hydraulic pumps hiding it.
47 Upper bracket to thermostat. Bolts to large vertical plate.
48 Alternator/ PS pump bracket. Key hole is for the pump.
49 Power steering gear bracket, all finished.
50 Bottom side. The valley will help clear the sector shaft boss, as well as make the bracket more rigid.
51 Frame side
52 Box sitting in bracket, as if installed.
53 Painted Crimson- red with a bit of black mixed in.
54 Tranny tower will be painted black, next time the gun is loaded.
55 Like clothes hanging out to dry, 36 parts got primed and painted today. Diamond left of center is the PS gear bracket. Center is remote PS reservoir, next Saginaw pump with housing for the remote reservoir.
56 Brackets, levers, tubes, rods. All sand blasted, epoxy primed, and painted. PITA. But one of those thankless tasks that are part of the job.
57 It makes smoke, thunder, and 45 psi of oil pressure!
58 A bowl of spaghetti under the floor! Brake and hydraulic lines for the uhder-floor hydroboost. Everything thing seems to work, no leaks except where I left the fitting loose.
59 PS pump mounts below the alternator, with a remote reservoir. Six volt starter really spins it over on 12v. Needs to be cleaned up internally as well as externally, but it does work.
60 Pic of hydraulic reservoir. Reservoir is the round black can, will probably get mounted to the radiator tie rod, or the block. The total oil capacity is greater than the canned ham type. One return line to reservoir, one to back of pump.
61 Tilting wheel steering column. Out of an '83 Dodge B250 'Custom' van.
I rebuilt it from the knuckle down, to eliminate the column shifter, and shorten to suit my use. No welding needed to the shaft, I was able to trim the "collapsible shaft" components and slide them together. And now I can slide it longer to fit me and mounting when the cab is installed. Almost a tilt/telescope column, which I didn't have room for. White bushing in the end of the tube is hard nylon, made to fit. Tubing is 1 3/4". and will fit in the notch in the bottom of the dash.
62 Wheel tilted up one click.
Bell joint boots seem hard to come by, that one is a VW dune buggy shifter boot cut to fit.
63 You can see the bell joint angle in this photo.
This is approximately the angle that it will be installed at.
64 Cab rotisserie. It will be nice for welding patches into the 90-some holes. And easy access to the bottom without rolling the cab all over the lawn.
65 The green panel is wafer board, screwed to the inner side of the door frame with 5/16" sheet metal screws. The holes won't once the cab liner is installed, later. Much later.
66 Easy access to the under dash components, like the vent.
67 Bigger slot to suit the bell joint on the new column/P,S. gear, and moved over. My plan is to use a shift lever boot between floor and column tube. Patch is tig welded into old slot, new one even has the O.E. style lip around it.
68 46 repaired holes visible in this pic. Large diamond replaces a section with a baseball sized antenna hole, plus bolt holes, and fatigue cracks radiating from antenna. All tig welded, ground smooth, and hammered back to proper contour.
69 Other half of roof has 10 more holes, 56 total in roof alone.
70 Header has 13 more holes, repaired.
71 Dash needed a bit of body work around the instrument cutout, plus more screw holes welded shut. About a dozen, plus about 6 more in the floor.
72 Firewall heeded heater holes plugged, plus another handful of miscellaneous screw holes.
73 Left side 'rocker panel extension', the black part. I removed the OE ones, and fabbed larger ones that lapped over the cowl sides and rocker panel. A schmear of bondo will eliminate the crease at the joint making smooooth corner there.
74 More antenna holes filled, this set was fro an A.M. radio. Plus the worst body damage needed fixing, where the colw light had been forced into the cowl, tearing and denting it. Plus that upper seam had come un-welded, and a pin hole at the forward end of seam. Plus there was a dent in the bottom, which needed screw holes to pull it out. About 115 holes welded shut in the cab.
75 Billet aluminum oil filter adapter w/ bracket. Mounts to same place as the O.E. cartridge type, but replacements will be easier to get and cheaper.
76 Because every ounce counts on a truck that weighs 5500 pounds, I lightened it up some.
77 Spin on filter in place. I'm sure to dribble some oil when changing, but I always dribbled with the old style too.
78 It's BLUE!!!
79 HVLP gun with remote pressure pot in fore ground. Out of focus.
80
81
82 Shift lever boots. Aluminum bezels, vinyl boots.
$85 for the set for four levers, PTO 'draft pad' $15 additional. Plus $12 shipping.
83 Right side view of boots.
Truck is in progress, floors need sand blast and paint. Note that cab is c-clamped to frame.
84 Right three levers are all boots in one bezel.
85 Boots for twin stick transfer case levers, W series Dodges
86 Boots for twin stick transfer case levers, W series Dodges
87
88 Radiator repair, one leaky tube plugged by removing form the header and filling hole with solder
89 Nearly invisible
90 Added lower frame gusset. Note the miter to the 'leg'. so that welds do not align across frame flange.
91 Top gusset at replace frame crossmember. Note, NOT welded across flange, only to the corner of the frame, the strongest place.
